Ahh, raspberry jam grease, good stuff. My tin must be at least 35 years old and still half full....

That's what this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1372-handy-downloads thread is for.......

RRG?

Yes but the High and Low have nothing to do with the gearbox or position, that is the motor in the transfer case. That's working as it should, in Low it will always display Lo and the gear you have selected (except your not displaying gears), in High it will display Hi for a few seconds then that goes out and it just displays the gear you are in.

What lights are you saying it doesn't put on in N or D? Reversing lights? If that is the case, as you've already worked out, it puts the reversing lights on when the X line is grounded, irrespective of what state the Y and Z line are in. If X line is grounded and the others are working as they should, P, R, 3 and 2, will display correctly, while D and N won't display anything (hence the select neutral warning when you use the range change) and 1 will display as 2. Are you sure the leds next to the gearlever are all displaying correctly in every gear or only some of them?

AC drain is a conical rubber thing directly above the XYZ switch in the floor of the car. If your breather is still attached it won't have been water dropping into the switch though. If the BeCM is not seeing the correct gear positions it will tell you to select neutral when you try to change range as it is thinking you aren't in neutral even when you are. When you select Low, the lights next to the gearlever will flash and at the same time the range light on the dash will flash, it will beep in time with the flashing and after 3 or 4 flashes, it will select low and display that on the dash. The same should happen when you select High. So it sounds like you can select low and high ratios in the transfer case but for some reason the gear position from the gearbox isn't displaying correctly.

Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it? If you do, probe the connection at pin 8 of C626 and measure the resistance to ground. When gears where the X line should be open circuit (N and D) are selected, you should get no reading (infinity or OL depending on the meter), whenever any of the other gears are selected you should see minimal resistance to ground. If you get a reading in N or D, it is quite likely that the BeCM is seeing sufficient ground to think the switch is closed but not enough for the lights next to the gearlever to respond. I would think there is a pull up resistor in the BeCM so it detects a positive ground signal rather than a floating signal and that may be where the fault lies. In that case, I would try connecting a 10k Ohm resistor between the X line and a battery feed. That would ensure it only responds to a full ground signal and not a high resistance floating signal.

leolito wrote:

• permanently it means you are forced to use it every time FOREVER unless you fix whatever is making it happen! :-)

Not necessarily. If you lock with the fob then unlock with the key, you need to enter the EKA. If you subsequently lock with the key and unlock with the key, you still need to enter the EKA every time. However, if you lock with the key, then unlock with the key, you don't need to enter the EKA. Equally, if it is in a state where it needs the EKA every time you unlock it, if you then enter the EKA with a Nanocom, after that you can lock and unlock with the key and it won't ask for the EKA. Turning EKA off in the BeCM doesn't, as many seem to think, mean it won't need it, it means, assuming it was programmed with an EKA originally, if it still needs it it just doesn't ask for it.
.

I always use these to join any pipes https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pneumatic-straight-tube-to-tube-adaptors/0812106/, rated at 20 bar and never had one leak yet. Cheaper and not as bulky as the genuine LR ones either.

Section around the rear window is one piece and is glued on, so it stayed there. The same for the D post covers, two or three screws that you can see with the tailgate open but the rest appeared to be glued and that also didn't want to come off so it stayed there and was masked. Same for the strips along the roof, I wasn't even going to attempt to get them off. Took the wheel arch liners out too so they could paint right up to the edges of the wings.

Electrical Troubleshooting Manual in RAVE

Neither do I, the ETM tells you where everything is except the splices in the loom.....

While the rest of it was away being sprayed, all the trims were laid out on the floor and sprayed with bumper black. Hardest part of putting it back together was the plates on the sides of the back bumper. They went in with the car to be sprayed but were a real bugger to get back on properly for some reason. Don't scrub up too badly for a 408k mile car does it?

No idea if the timer could be swapped but on the Classic I did we had about 5 goes at it. The valve block had been rebuilt but a couple of the tiny, thin O rings around the base of the solenoid spindles had slipped out of there groove so were leaking. I don't have any Tees, I just have a set of Schrader valves that I keep in the boot that can be fitted should I ever need them. With one of them and a short length of pipe, you can check for leaks before putting the valve block in the car. A couple of seconds run with an electric tyre pump will get the pressure up to around 100 psi and by watching the gauge you can see if it holds pressure or drops. Then, once you are satisfied it is holding it, energise the solenoid to ensure it releases it. Checking it on the car isn't as bad on a P38 as it's reasonably accessible but on a Classic where it lives in a steel box bolted to the chassis rail, it's a real pain to keep taking it out and putting it back. The free EASUnlock works with the Classic if you make up the cable and change the serial port data rate to 4800 baud.

The other problem we found was the air springs being used were new old stock which had obviously been stored somewhere damp so the alloy ends had corroded meaning they leaked where the bladder joined the alloy ends. Classic compressor is identical to the P38 compressor except for the top of the chamber which has a tapped hole in it. You can either drill and tap a P38 top or use a P38 compressor with the Classic top.

If the LED next to the gearlever is correct, that suggests the XYZ switch is OK as it drives them as well as supplying data to the BeCM to display the selected gear on the dash. Could be that the X line is grounded somewhere between the splice (S610) and the BeCM pin 8 on C626 (Blue/Black wire).

Pull them, they are clipped on. Take the stainless treads out from the door openings and it's pretty obvious. RAVE tells you how to remove all the others. This is mine when it came back from being sprayed (except I refitted the mirrors, indicators and rear lights before driving it home, then fitted the rest once it was there).

and shortly afterwards....

Whenever you take any of the pipes out, RAVE says to trim 1mm off the end of the pipe and chamfer it with a pencil sharpener. That way the groove that has been put in the end of the pipe by the O rings will be in a different place. Be careful when pulling the collett out, they are fairly fragile and need to be pulled out perpendicular.

Before expecting it to work, test the valve block. With a short length of 6mm nylon pipe, one of the emergency inflation Schrader valves and a tyre pump, you can check each of the 4 outputs to make sure they are sealing. Pressurise each one in turn and make sure it holds pressure, then open the corresponding solenoid which will check that the valve is opening, the valves will open and release the pressure. This also checks that the driver pack is good.

Use the connector from the ECU to the driver pack, not the one between the driver pack and the valve block, as an initial test for the valve block and driver pack.

Connect 12V to pins 12 and 13 (using a standard 6.3 mm spade terminal you can connect to both pins at once) and ground to pins 10 and 11. Then apply 12v to pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8. When you put power to any of them, you should hear the relevant solenoid click and pressure will be released. If the solenoid doesn't click when you put power onto a pin, then you need to check the connection between the driver pack and the valve block. Check for weak tension in the connector.

There's the collett and two O rings inside, just the same as in the valve block or one of the air springs. You can pull the collett out and hook the O rings out with the LR approved crotchet hook (always amuses me that LR assume you'll have a crotchet hook and a pencil sharpener in your toolbox when working on the EAS). If it blew out, I suspect it wasn't pushed fully home.

Brake pedal on a P38 will feel different to a conventional braking system as you are opening a valve rather than pushing a piston.

I never said it wasn't easy, just that it almost certainly won't just work first time you fire it up. The mechanical side is pretty simple, hardest part was getting the coil springs compressed enough to get them out, after that it was just a case of fitting the air springs and connecting everything up. Then we fired it up and nothing happened......

Did similar on a 94 Classic LSE last year. Check the valve block for leaks (even if, or especially, if you have rebuilt it), make sure any wiring bodges have been removed, .make sure you have diagnostics that connect and work and cross fingers, toes, arms, legs and anything else you can think of crossing.

That will sync the fob but won't work while the engine is disabled, it needs the EKA entering either with the key or by a Nanocom or similar.