The iso file is an image of a CD, so it can't be opened but must be burned to CD first. Then you will have a CD that will run RAVE from the CD or copy the entire CD to hard drive and run from there.

I think we are talking about something different. I assumed Goodridge teflon inner and stainless braided outer (although the ones you linked to are similar except for having a further layer of silicone on the outside). With the conditions you have I'd go for Kunifer with stainless fittings for the hard lines and use Goodridge flexible but the version with stainless, rather than plated steel, fittings on each end. That way you shouldn't get any problems with corrosion on any part of the system.

If it's out, it isn't any more difficult than it looks reading the overhaul manual. If I were doing it I'd hone the bores to get rid of any glaze and treat it to a set of piston rings and big end bearings. I'd pull a main bearing cap and see if there is any wear on that (unlikely unless it's been really neglected in the past) and, assuming there isn't, put it back. Treat it to a set of core plugs (dead easy with the engine out) while you are at it. If you get it right, you could end up with an engine that will be oil tight for a few weeks at least.....

The documents in RAVE are the actual paper manuals in pdf format. CARIN is publication LRL 0310, CARIN11 is publication LRL0325ENG - 2nd Edition and CARIN111 is publication LRL0325ENG - 3rd Edition.

The 15 minutes error does seem very strange though......

The full version of RAVE has the manual for CARIN, CARIN11 and CARIN111 under In-Car Entertainment. It uses the same standard constellation of 24 satellites as any other GPS system and they are still here. Admittedly there's other satellite systems up there which are used by some of the newer systems that are more accurate but the original system is accurate to within 100m (even with the US Government's deliberate error on location taken into account).

If you don't have the full version of RAVE, I've got an iso image of it in my Google Drive here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc/view?usp=sharing

They will improve the braking as they flex less than OE rubber ones but still do flex a little so a long run would degrade braking.

But did you replace the entire run with braided or just the flexible hoses? The original suggestion was doing away with the hard metal lines completely and running flexible over the whole run.

If all the nuts torqued up properly, there's no reason the gaskets shouldn't last. Sounds like you've done a good job, well done.

Never played with one but I would have assumed it would take the date and time from the GPS signal? Is it just wrong or is it displaying the time from a different time zone?

Of course it gets hot, you are compressing air so the temperature will rise. Even a footpump will get hot if you are using it to blow up a tyre. The better the compressor is working the more heat it will generate. You only need worry if the motor is getting too hot. By too hot, I mean in excess of 90 degrees as the thermal cutout is rated to cut the power at 105 C.

I doubt it was gearbox overheat unless it did it just as you reached the top of the hill and came off the throttle so it cooled down immediately. You probably need to wait until the fault stays long enough for it to display on the message centre. Then you will at least know why it is beeping at you so can deal with that.

How much did you have to put in as it's only 200 ml from empty to full on the dipstick. So out of a full fill of 11 litres, a few millilitres is nothing.

I had that on the Ascot, 3 beeps, then another 3 beeps but nothing on the message centre. Then one day I got the 3 beeps and EAS Fault on the dash immediately followed by 3 beeps and it went off. At the same time the EAS height light went out then came back on. Problem was a dodgy connection in the multiway connector behind the LH kickpanel. Chopped the connector out and soldered and heatshrinked the wires.

One side of the three bulbs is connected directly to pins 14 and 4 (which are commoned on the pcb anyway) but that is a permanent supply, according to the ETM (E2 page 4) the other side of them is connected to the LCD display and, via a resistor, to pin 20 which connects to the HEVAC. I can't see putting power to pin 14 and grounding pin 20 doing any harm to anything else. HEVAC pins can tarnish and benefit from contact cleaner so it could be as simple as that. Mine would intermittently lose the ignition switched supply when I first got the car.

Don't forget though, the backlights for the message centre come on with the ignition while the other illumination comes on with the sidelights. I seem to remember someone having a broken track in the feed to the backlights at some time in the distant past and the fix is fairly easy. I'll pull my spare out from under the bench and stare at it closely in case the fix jumps out at me.......

I knew the question had been dealt with before, https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1259-heater-core-temperature-sensor?page=3. Seems a 22k Ohm NTC thermistor is what you need, so one of these https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermistor-ics/1912279/ would probably work fine. You'd need to insulate the wires (or wrap a bit of tape around the pipe so the wires don't short together) and attach it with a tie wrap but at 81p each with 4 spares, it's got to be better than a 3 figure price.....

Is the LCD not displaying anything or is it just not illuminated? If it is the backlight bulbs, you should be able to see the display if you shine a bright torch across it. If it is lit with the ignition on, then the backlights are OK but it may not have a display. See the second pic in my post here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2091-dashboard-cluster and you can see the ribbon cable that connects the LCD unit to the main pcb. Simple enough to get at, all you need do is pop the translucent back cover off.

The small green and amber bulbs go in the switches, the row above the clock with the front and rear foglight switches, the cruise switch, the hazard switch and the EAS switch and rocker. They push out from behind so you need to take the centre console side panels off, the knee panel and the instrument cluster surround to get to the screws around the outside that holds it in place. Pull it forward and push the switches out from behind.. The HEVAC needs clear bulbs as it has green screens in there and the set I linked to has the lot. The bulb in a green holder is a higher wattage and goes behind the display to light it up. While you've got the side panels off, there's two screws on either side of the HEVAC. Take them out and tilt it so the top comes forward and clear, then you can pull the whole thing forward and out far enough to unplug the connectors to it.

Found your way here then Paul, welcome.

Already told you in your other thread.