No idea what that box is. Can you trace the wiring and see where it is connected into the car loom? That might give a clue of what it is supposed to do.

Button flashing means it is waiting for the correct conditions to switch over. Obvious first place would be the temperature sensor but by shorting out you seem to have discounted that. If it was a sticking solenoid, it would switch over but then immediately switch back as it would see insufficient gas pressure so if it isn't attempting to switch it isn't that. RPM pickup would be another suspect as it will only switch on when it reaches whatever revs it has been set to switch at. Could be an iffy connection there depending on the system and where it picks up the rpm signal from. What system is it and do you have a cable to connect to it and have a look at what it is doing? That would be ideal as you would be able to see what temperature it thinks it is at, what revs it thinks the engine is doing, what gas pressure it is seeing and so on.

Not much different to what I've done really. Front ball joints, check, steering arms (Lemforder) twice, check, suspension bushes, check, dampers Boge), check, airbags (Dunlop), check, EAS compressor and valveblock (X8R), check, only one height sensor (as only one has given errors and if it ain't broke, why fix it?), check, mild steel exhaust (original lasted 16 years so a replacement should last at least half that), check, rebuilt brake callipers (TRW seal set at £6 an axle), check, new discs (Delphi) twice, air con condenser, check. I don't count batteries and tyres as they are effectively service items in my view and would be needed on any car. If you compare it to a low mileage modern Eurobox, it'd still need a battery and tyres if I was to do a similar mileage per annum.

I got it with 205k on the clock and spent around £300-400 getting it to the point where I could use it reliably and rely on it. Most of the other stuff has been done as and when although I do tend to have a blitz every so often and do a number of things that, while not broken, are showing signs of wear. For instance over the next couple of weeks I've got new engine mounts (as I noticed recently that the rubber has perished and split on one so I'll replace both), the transfer case chain to change (I can make it skip a tooth if I try hard and the TC will get new bearings and seals while it is off and apart) and a new petrol pump to fit (because I've worn out fuel gauge sender rheostat track by running around with 1/4 tank of fuel for 10 years). Just looking at the weather forecast for the next week or two to find a time when it isn't going to be raining as the garage is full of Maserati so I'll be working on it outside.

I've only kept a record for the Ascot as I intend selling it, for mine, it will cost what it costs as it isn't for sale. The costs were a guestimate going on the large items of expenditure and things that I've had to change. For instance, I know a service every 10,000 miles costs me around £90 so I can work that out. Fuel costs were pretty accurate though, I use around £50 a year in petrol and average 200 miles per tank on LPG. I know what a tank of LPG costs so it's just a simple bit of maths to work it out from the mileage. So having done 9,000 miles since the end of August, that will be about 45 tanks of LPG at an average of £38 a tank, so around £1,700, and £30 in petrol. Blimey, at 10 minutes a go, I've spent 7 and a half hours standing around holding the button on the LPG pump in!

Just looked at the spreadsheet I've kept for the Ascot so I know if I'm going to be selling it at a profit or not. The only thing it needs now is a battery, a new drivers door latch (keyswitch microswitch is intermittent) and everything will be working. Costs for getting it running perfectly on LPG, replacing the complete sunroof cassette, sending the original stereo to Clarion for repair and line in mod, tailgate straps, a blend motor, rebuilding the EAS compressor, replacing the core plugs, replacement headlining and sundry bits like anti freeze and an MoT and it stands me at £1196.69 including buying it. Air con was also leak tested and regassed but that was done for free by my mate who had just done the course and used it to practice on before going out and making a fool of himself in front of punters (although that would only have added another £60 anyway).

Tee into 20 is a better idea than Teeing into the bleed return I would have thought.

I worked it out a year or so ago and I've spent roughly £9k on mine in 10 years, so probably up to near £10k now and that included the V8 Developments engine and a respray. That doesn't include fuel (which came out at about £36k) tax or insurance but no matter what I was running those cost would still be there. OK, it doesn't allow anything for labour and if I charged it at £75 an hour it would by far and away exceed Clive's figures but if working for someone else I usually charge £300 a day. Last time I did an engine swap for someone, I charged £250 even though it took a whole weekend.

Coparts is a salvage auction so most of the stuff there is insurance write offs with the odd trade in so unlikely to be of any interest to most buyers, it's too complex and too old. Comes with 3 keys and an MoT until December too.

Push it? Just bloody drive it. I hit 409,000 yesterday......

As Marty is away now working in NZ for a few months, if you can find a P38 with the door amps in a breakers and get the amps and a lump of loom for each, I could do a copy of Marty's unit. Or just 2 stereo Class D audio amps and 4 crossovers and start from scratch.

That isn't a guide price, it's their estimated retail value, which, for a late model Bordeaux in decent nick is about right I would have thought. It'll probably go for under a grand. Dunno where you get your costings from Clive, a couple of grand at V8 Developments for an engine rebuild if you must and/or just use it and fix things as and when. Under 200k isn't leggy, it's just run in, especially if it's been run on LPG all it's life with the much lower engine wear rate.

The auction is only 20 miles or so from me so if I've nothing better to do on Wednesday I might just go down there. Not that I need another one but who knows......

I wonder what it will go for? 4.0 Bordeaux with LPG and looks quite tidy.

https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/53269290/clean-title-2001-land-rover-rangerover-wisbech

Not mine but more work on the Vogue. Spent most of yesterday afternoon sitting in the boot with a soldering iron and lots of bits of wire replacing the dead DSP amp with one of Marty's 4 door amp replacements. Went reasonably smoothly, only a couple of minor problems. It involves cutting the wiring to the DSP amp plug and soldering to a set of 4 door amps on a plate. There's only a few inputs to the DSP, left and right audio, power, ground and a wake up wire but the speakers are wired to it individually so there's a bass and mid/tweeter feed to each door. Marty has managed to get the wiring so it is a case of matching the colours (each wire is labelled too) and the only one that I got wrong was the RHF bass. The wires are Green/Black and Black/Green, only problem is that there is also a pair of Light Green/Black and Black/Light Green which are for the input from a phone if one was fitted. The bass outputs use thicker wires than the others and realised when I noticed I had a pair of thick wires left over. Also had two pairs of Orange and Orange/Black wires left over and it turns out that these are the sub feeds into and out of the DSP so they needed to be linked through. Ran the two pairs for the rear feeds through to the front and connected them to the plug into the head unit. I'd called Marty and left him a message earlier asking him to confirm the situation with the sub feeds and he called me back at exactly the right moment. Trying to work out how to push the terminals into the plug body and he pointed out a little sliding bit of plastic on the end that holds them in place (in addition to the tang....).

Tested it and found no sound from the front left bass speaker. Checked all the wiring and couldn't find a problem so pulled the door panel to find the speaker seized solid. So after about 3 hours and having to get out of the boot to hop around for a while every so often to convince my legs they were still there, she's now got a fully working stereo system.

5 pin isn't needed, just a standard 4 pin does the job of stopping self levelling. Resistor (or back emf protection diode) probably isn't a bad idea but I doubt it will make a difference. Internal leaking in the valve block is the most likely problem rather than self levelling so a set of O rings is on your Christmas list.

As Gordon and me both got banned from rr.net for quoting it, we figured it was the ideal tagline for this site.

Chris, I understand what you trod on but many won't. A bit like when my daughter was very young, her mother bought some Venison sausages but told her she probably wouldn't like them. She asked what venison was and I've never been forgiven for telling her it was Bambi.......

Before the likes of X8R started doing the rebuild kits and Storey Wilson released the EASUnlock software, the EAS was a bit of a black art and a mystery to everyone. Take the car into a main dealer with an EAS fault and you'd be charged an arm and both legs for a new valve block and/or compressor. These days it's not a problem and, as you say, when you start to look into it, the system is actually very simple.

This is Zebedee

who was a character in an English children's TV programme called The Magic Roundabout back in the 1980's. The tagline comes from when the Defender came out on coil springs after the series Land Rovers had used leaf springs for many years and the purists considered that coil springs didn't belong on a Land Rover. And they still don't......

1) Seat outstations are only needed if you have the memory seats not just electric seats. As far as I know, there's no difference in teh actual seats themselves, just whether or not they have the outstation (yet another ECU) to control them.
2) On a Highline BeCM you'll have the supplies for the seats, just not the loom from BeCM to seats, so adding the looms should make it plug and play.
3) Yes, wiring will run to the BeCM. The diagram shows power relays between BeCM and seat so I assume they will be in the loom as they live under the seats.

Outputs for the seats are there in a High Line BeCM. For the last 6 years my dash has been telling me that Fuse 20 is blown. Fuse 20 feeds the passenger electric seat. Fuse 20 isn't blown and as I have manual cloth seats it wouldn't matter if it was. I actually prefer the poverty spec, cloth seats that plod specified when they ordered the car new. They aren't freezing cold in mid winter and not hot and sticky when the car has been parked in the sun. The Ascot has leather and it looks better but not as comfortable as the cloth. It's a bit like wheels. 16" for comfort and 18" for looks.

Standard code reader won't do it, I doubt if Auto Logic will do it either. OBD code readers read engine fault codes, for the other subsystems you need a dedicated reader. I've got the Nanocom for Range Rover, iCarSoft for Mercedes, VCDS for VW /Audi and OpCom for Opel/Vauxhall. They will all do what the should on the correct car but won't do anything on anything else.

SRS light on is automatic MoT fail too.......

It's a bayonet fixing for the bulb holder into the back of the lamp unit. Twist it anticlockwise and then when it is out the bulb itself is a push fit type.

Don is spot on. Turn ignition on with anything disconnected on a pre-99 car and the fault stays until it is reset with diagnostics. Post-99 resets itself as soon as the fault is cleared.

Or just hang a couple of these in place of the bulbs https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/1311254/

Doesn't look like it as reversing lights are not part of the test for a car first used before 1 September 2009. Doesn't mean the tester won't comment on it though, some of them like to make the rules up as they go along rather than follow the manual. If you want to get rid of the warning, you could always connect a couple of bulbs, paint them black and hang them down behind the cluster. They'll still come on but you won't be able to see them.

Doesn't look like it to me, https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment, section 4.6. It would on anything later than 2009 though.