LPG would only draw power if it's faulty but you can pull the fuses to make sure. Only sleeping if you are in it doesn't make any sense. What is different if you are in it or not?

Don't forget, that's miles too, so not far short of 650,000 kms......

BeCM will go to sleep exactly 2 minutes after it sees the last input. So if you get in and close the door, interior lights go off but the LED next to the gearchange will still be glowing dimly until the 2 minutes is up and then it goes out. That shows the BeCM is asleep and current draw should be down to under 20mA. If it's higher than that, something else is still powered up.

Problem is when they are charging by the hour, it'll probably cost more in labour to do a rebuild properly than the cost of a secondhand valve block. It isn't the usual mechanic type work either, it doesn't involve big sockets and breaker bars.

What were you using it for? http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234 is the online parts list.

They will if everything is done properly. If you look after the car it will look after you and don't ignore any little noises or feelings that something isn't right, deal with it before it becomes serious.

and don't use Britpart bits.....

Never heard of them, I always use the X8R seals, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-VALVE-BLOCK-O-RING-DIAPHRAGM-REPAIR-FIX-KIT/321451232414

What O ring kit did you get? It does sound like they could be iffy.

I suppose the worst is it will clog up with dust from the dryer. In theory there shouldn't be any dust but every valve block I've taken apart has had white dust in it from the desiccant.

Dunno, but they always say to put them in dry.

It's this one that can often leak when you do a rebuild.

Working from the back of the car, on the top you have the diaphragm valve, Left Rear, Front Right, Inlet Valve, Exhaust Valve while on the underside you have Right Rear at the back and Left Front next to the relief valve and pressure switch.

The ones that can cause problems are the very thin ones around the base of the plungers. They should be assembled dry though.....

I don't think a 5 pin will fit but a 4 pin will. What that does is stop the EAS from waking up every so often and self levelling as it will only be powered up while the ignition is on. It also stops diagnostics from connecting.

It's self levelling. When parked it will always lower the other 3 corners to match the lowest one. This is why people say to take the timer relay out as that causes it to self level every 6 hours or so. So if you have a leak on one corner, by the time it has been left overnight, it is down on it's knees. With the timer relay out, only the corner with the leak drops so you know which one it is. There's some small, very thin, O rings on the valve block that go round the base of the solenoid spindle and these can pop out of their grooves when you put it together. That will cause it to drop on one corner. You will be able to see which one with your soapy water as you'll see bubbles from the base of the solenoid. Only problem is, if it is the rear right, that is one of the two on the bottom of the valve block.

I always test for leaks before putting the valve block in. Short length of 6mm pipe with one of my emergency Schrader valve fittings on the end, put that in the output hole that would go to the air spring and put a tyre pump on it. Run that for a couple of seconds and it'll be up to 150 psi (or whatever your pump can manage), then see if it holds the pressure or if it drops. In fact you can do that test with the valve block in place, you just need to put pressure into it through the hole where the pipe to the right rear should go.

With no leaks it should stay at the height it was at when switched off. You might hear a tick, tick, tick from the valve block as it settles to the correct height but after that it shouldn't move. It sounds like you have a leak somewhere, only slight, but enough to let the air out.

Brass springy bits at the top. Or at least they were on the one we did a couple of weeks ago.

It may just be where it came apart and hasn't seated fully yet. Might be worth putting it on high and seeing if that lets it seal.

That's good. That is a danger if you jack the car up on the chassis with little or no air in the air springs. If the car is lifted with the suspension on high, it isn't a problem but with no air in it's always going to be a toss up over whether the air spring inflates or it pulls apart.

I usually jack on the axles but if I do need to lift the car I put the suspension on high first. Once went to have tyres fitted and one of the fitters, being familiar with EAS, stopped his mate from jacking it up on the chassis until the suspension had been put on high.

Welcome, you're not the only one that uses their car all the time. I set off in mine at 08;00 on Friday and stopped driving it at 01:30 Sunday morning, continuous for 41.5 hours, except for fuel and food stops......

Despite what some people think, they can be reliable if you look after them and you'll find the people to help you keep them that way on here.

Earlier versions didn't have it but the air filter air intake was next to the exhaust manifold to raise the temperature of the incoming air. It isn't at a cold start where it does anything, it's once you get moving. If the ambient temperature is below or slightly above freezing, the incoming air is accelerated through the throttle body so cools down further. If it is damp, such as on a foggy day, the moisture in the incoming air freezes and blocks the intake or jams your throttle. Which is why people have had problems when cruising, cold, damp air going in, being cooled by the acceleration and turning to a block of ice inside the throttle body.