Marshall8hp wrote:

Oh and one for @Gilbertd - the external A pillar trims were in great shape, despite 23 years in the Australian sun. Do you know of any market for them? :)

S'funny that, I thought they were supposed to crumble away in sunnier climes? Or does that only apply when someone who appeared to be closely related to a troll tries to pull them off without undoing the screws first?

I wish I could find on in a breakers to do the same. There's so many bits that the average scrappy wouldn't consider worth anything. These days the traditional breakers have all become 'vehicle recyclers' so you can't just wander around helping yourself to useful bits and pay a few quid for the lot. I run an additional lambda sensor solely to drive the LPG system so the petrol and LPG systems are totally independent of each other. After going through numerous cheapo Chinese universal sensors I bought a good quality NTK sensor that was intended for a Ford, so cheap and readily available. I wanted the bit of the vehicle loom with the connector on it so I could just plug straight in only to find that the one remaining breakers around here take the whole loom off and weight them in as scrap. In the old days I would have been able to wander around with a pair of wire cutters, find a suitable plug and chop it off but not these days.

KCR wrote:

Richard ... please take as many images / pictures, as You can of all of those jobs ;-)

I'll try and remember. I often start a job thinking I'll photograph each step for the benefit of others, then get stuck into the job and completely forget about taking any pictures until I've got it finished. Not sure when it is going to be though. The garage is full of Maserati and too small to be able to get a P38 in and still be able to move around and work on it, so it'll have to be done outside. Weather forecast for the next week or so says when it isn't raining it'll be cold, neither of which is what I want when outside laying under the car.

I can see that not setting the alarm is a problem but the self locking is normal on most modern cars. You've modernised the locking so you've got to live with it.

That's a bit of a ripoff, the Nanocom comes with one cable that does everything.

So the same as most newer cars then? It's standard on most, if not all, Mercs (although can be turned off), BMW, Bentley, Audi and probably a lot more (they are just the ones I've driven recently). It's mandatory in the US so I suspect it's there on all cars that are sold in the US. The problem with it is?

Without knowing what system you are trying to fit, can't help much. By keyless entry do you mean remote fob (like Land Rover fitted in the first place) or one of these systems like they started to fit to new cars (and are now stopping again because it's too easy to use a code grabber to steal a car) where it automatically unlocks when you walk up to it? Haven't a clue what the brakes have to do with it.....

It's worth making up a cable and downloading the free software if you don't have your own diagnostics. At least then you can deal with EAS faults at times your local indies aren't open. It does mean you need to carry a laptop around with you though.

Yes, you need to simulate the key being turned in the door lock to lock and unlock, so any additional connections need to be done at the latch end. What's wrong with using the fob that Land Rover supplied you with though?

Oh yes, and the clock displays will probably read differently too as each circuit board is calibrated to the individual instruments, so your speedo, tach, temp and fuel gauges will probably read slightly differently unless you re-calibrate them.

Mileage is stored in both the cluster and the BeCM and it will initially show ODO Error on the dash, then it will change to read the higher of the two but not change until you use a Nano or similar to sync them. It won't allow you to show the lower of the two readings no matter what, only the higher one. If you swap the actual clocks but retain your original circuit board and display, then it will work as normal.

There's a lot of people on faceache that think they know what they are doing then are stupid enough to not only do something stupid but even post about how stupid they've been. As you probably guessed, I don't like facebook or the stupid people that use it......

Rewire it back to standard then use your relays on both the CDL and keyswitch wires to simulate the key being turned and the CDL switch being operated. It needs to supply a signal to the outstation from the latch, a momentary connection between the Blue/Red and Black wires will make it think the key has been turned in the lock and at the same time you need to put a continuous connection between Green/Red and Black to hold it unlocked and open circuit to hold it locked.

Looks like you've got a bumpy ride home then......

It's gone into hard fault so you need diagnostics to clear it. Do you have a cable and the free software or any other dedicated diagnostics?

When driving with the tailgate open I get pissed off with the constant beeping and the dash telling me the tailgate is open, so I always flick the latch closed with a screwdriver so it thinks it's closed. You only need to flick the latch on the lower tailgate that the upper would latch into.

You like living dangerously don't you? It could be done but how are you doing it at the moment? Are you using an extra actuator to physically move the sill button or are you applying a pulse to electrically simulate the sill button being pushed down?

Not actually done anything to it at all but went out shopping yesterday in preparation for the impending England lockdown. I've got a new petrol pump to fit with a gauge sender that isn't worn out at one point on the track, so bought some hose clips to fit the hose I've already got (as I'm expecting the pipes above the tank to be rusted and may need to replace them) and I've got a new chain, bearings and seals to put in the transfer case so bought a set of bearing pullers and bottles of ATF. Also got a pair of engine mounts to change and as the RH one may involve removing the inner wheelarch liner to get to the top nuts, asked in my local factors if they had anything similar to the plastic fixings to put it back (as at least 2 are currently missing and the others aren't in brilliant condition) and they actually have the real things on the shelf. 50p each, which is twice what Island want for them, but off the shelf rather than having to add postage and wait for them to arrive. Just got to wait for a couple of days with no rain now to spend my time laying under the car.

You must have a short somewhere as it is fed with an ignition switched supply. Try pulling the relay (relay 11) and see if that stops it.

That's why I tend to use the front fogs as well on country roads or when it's really dark.

JLImmelman wrote:

My concern is that the quality of the bolts supplied isn't consistent, so applying the same torque to the bolts might make a weaker bolt stretch more than the others and possibly go into the plastic deformation stretch range instead of remaining in the elastic range as it should. This would cause the gasket to not be clamped sufficiently in the area around the bolt causing symptoms consistent with mine (I hope!).

Should I be looking at checking and setting the tappet pre-load (http://www.v8engines.com/engine-4.htm#preload) while I wait for the head studs to arrive? Am I correct in saying I'd need to remove and bleed down the lifters before doing this?
Would a 10thou skim from standard be enough to push the tapped pre-load out of spec, or is this something worth doing anyway?

That is my concern with stretch bolts. The ones that were originally fitted 20 odd years ago would have been made to a specific specification but you've no way of knowing if the ones available these days are to the exact same spec. While the stud kit is not cheap, using them, along with top hat liners will give you a much stronger engine.

10 thou shouldn't take the preload out of limits but it's worth checking anyway. There's a much easier way of checking it here http://www.v8developments.co.uk/technical/valve_train/index.shtml.

Yes, a full cassette that is known to be working is much easier. Also means you have to drop the headlining to fit it so you can re-trim it to deal with the drooping cloth while it is out.

Yes, the centre of the motor has a slot in it and when the car was new it was supplied with a Tee bar to wind it back and forth but a large flat screwdriver works just as well. The usual problem is that the system goes stiff and one of the many small cast levers breaks. You can buy a set of replacements from a seller on eBay but they are 3D printed plastic, require an awful lot of fettling to get them to fit together and move smoothly and aren't as strong as the originals. Not heard of anyone that has managed to get them to work for more than a couple of times before they break.

If the sunroof is there but doesn't work, after the battery has been off you'll get a sunroof not set message on the dash and, as it doesn't work, you can't reset it. If you aren't getting that message, then it is quite possible the BeCM has been told the sunroof isn't fitted to stop the message. In that case it isn't going to work even if it is in perfect working condition.