I had always assumed it was another trading name for RPi but apparently not. However, I just found this https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/107037-rip-paul-from-v8tuner/ so it looks like they may have closed down. I'll send Escape a message on the dark side and see what he knows.

DavidAll wrote:

You are welcome to use my Nanocom. I bought it on Ebay a couple of months ago and haven't even tried setting it up yet. I won't be needing it for a while yet. It looks a bit of a palaver but perhaps Richard can advise.

The only setting up is registering it with BBS, or, if you are adding a new licence, it looks complicated but is pretty straightforward really. Assuming you bought one with a GEMS licence to suit your car, it will still need the Bosch Motronic licence if you need it to deal with the engine. However, a Nanocom with only a GEMS (or Diesel) licence will still do all the other systems on a Motronic, so would work fine for EAS, HEVAC, BeCM, ABS and gearbox, it just won't talk to the engine ECU. Mine has GEMS and EDC licences (but not Motronic) and I've been using it on the 2001 Vogue I'm helping restore for the ABS, HEVAC and EAS.

The reason why the Nano is so expensive is that Colin from BBS is based in Cyprus and they are priced in Euros. I watched the price in pounds go up and down with the exchange rate and got mine when it was at it's best for just over £300, but since then the Euro price has remained much the same, just the exchange rate has meant the pounds price has rocketed.

No Brian, still looking. It's a 4 pin, round one as I'm using the lambda sensor from a 1.8 Focus but looks like its the same one used on all models of Focus..

Unplug the speaker on the back, pop the translucent cover off the back and you'll see the 3 screws that hold the actual gauge to the board. Pop the clear screen off the front and then the same with the black plastic surround. That will expose the gauges. If you managed to break the needle off the fuel gauge you've obviously been this far anyway. Undo the 3 screws that secure the gauge to the pcb and it should just drop out. Swap it over and put it all back together.

No, no soldering. Lots of small screws though. But, if it's only the fuel gauge you have damaged, there's nothing to stop you from simply swapping that over from one cluster to the other. 3 screws attach it to the PCB and possibly a couple more that keep it in place.

No, it can't be done. But like I say, you can swap your circuit board and display and fit that to the replacement clocks. The errors will only be slight and you can calibrate the replacements to make your clocks read correctly. I swapped the main pcb on mine (as one of the MOSFETs that drove some of the warning lights was dying) but kept the original clocks and display so the mileage didn't alter but the speedo and tacho had to be recalibrated and the temp gauge needle reads slightly higher than it used to.

As far as I know they are still going but I do remember someone on the dark side had problems getting in touch but did eventually.

Marshall8hp wrote:

Oh and one for @Gilbertd - the external A pillar trims were in great shape, despite 23 years in the Australian sun. Do you know of any market for them? :)

S'funny that, I thought they were supposed to crumble away in sunnier climes? Or does that only apply when someone who appeared to be closely related to a troll tries to pull them off without undoing the screws first?

I wish I could find on in a breakers to do the same. There's so many bits that the average scrappy wouldn't consider worth anything. These days the traditional breakers have all become 'vehicle recyclers' so you can't just wander around helping yourself to useful bits and pay a few quid for the lot. I run an additional lambda sensor solely to drive the LPG system so the petrol and LPG systems are totally independent of each other. After going through numerous cheapo Chinese universal sensors I bought a good quality NTK sensor that was intended for a Ford, so cheap and readily available. I wanted the bit of the vehicle loom with the connector on it so I could just plug straight in only to find that the one remaining breakers around here take the whole loom off and weight them in as scrap. In the old days I would have been able to wander around with a pair of wire cutters, find a suitable plug and chop it off but not these days.

KCR wrote:

Richard ... please take as many images / pictures, as You can of all of those jobs ;-)

I'll try and remember. I often start a job thinking I'll photograph each step for the benefit of others, then get stuck into the job and completely forget about taking any pictures until I've got it finished. Not sure when it is going to be though. The garage is full of Maserati and too small to be able to get a P38 in and still be able to move around and work on it, so it'll have to be done outside. Weather forecast for the next week or so says when it isn't raining it'll be cold, neither of which is what I want when outside laying under the car.

I can see that not setting the alarm is a problem but the self locking is normal on most modern cars. You've modernised the locking so you've got to live with it.

That's a bit of a ripoff, the Nanocom comes with one cable that does everything.

So the same as most newer cars then? It's standard on most, if not all, Mercs (although can be turned off), BMW, Bentley, Audi and probably a lot more (they are just the ones I've driven recently). It's mandatory in the US so I suspect it's there on all cars that are sold in the US. The problem with it is?

Without knowing what system you are trying to fit, can't help much. By keyless entry do you mean remote fob (like Land Rover fitted in the first place) or one of these systems like they started to fit to new cars (and are now stopping again because it's too easy to use a code grabber to steal a car) where it automatically unlocks when you walk up to it? Haven't a clue what the brakes have to do with it.....

It's worth making up a cable and downloading the free software if you don't have your own diagnostics. At least then you can deal with EAS faults at times your local indies aren't open. It does mean you need to carry a laptop around with you though.

Yes, you need to simulate the key being turned in the door lock to lock and unlock, so any additional connections need to be done at the latch end. What's wrong with using the fob that Land Rover supplied you with though?

Oh yes, and the clock displays will probably read differently too as each circuit board is calibrated to the individual instruments, so your speedo, tach, temp and fuel gauges will probably read slightly differently unless you re-calibrate them.

Mileage is stored in both the cluster and the BeCM and it will initially show ODO Error on the dash, then it will change to read the higher of the two but not change until you use a Nano or similar to sync them. It won't allow you to show the lower of the two readings no matter what, only the higher one. If you swap the actual clocks but retain your original circuit board and display, then it will work as normal.

There's a lot of people on faceache that think they know what they are doing then are stupid enough to not only do something stupid but even post about how stupid they've been. As you probably guessed, I don't like facebook or the stupid people that use it......

Rewire it back to standard then use your relays on both the CDL and keyswitch wires to simulate the key being turned and the CDL switch being operated. It needs to supply a signal to the outstation from the latch, a momentary connection between the Blue/Red and Black wires will make it think the key has been turned in the lock and at the same time you need to put a continuous connection between Green/Red and Black to hold it unlocked and open circuit to hold it locked.

Looks like you've got a bumpy ride home then......

It's gone into hard fault so you need diagnostics to clear it. Do you have a cable and the free software or any other dedicated diagnostics?

When driving with the tailgate open I get pissed off with the constant beeping and the dash telling me the tailgate is open, so I always flick the latch closed with a screwdriver so it thinks it's closed. You only need to flick the latch on the lower tailgate that the upper would latch into.