I much prefer the one sold as an accessory for those of us without the ones in the cubby. Gave me somewhere to prop my tablet to watch a Grand Prix while halfway through France too.
What year is it? On a GEMS the rocker cover gaskets are pretty straightforward (having done mine a few weeks ago) but did a Thor last week and the solid coolant pipes and alternator make getting the RH one off difficult and they both have to come off.
Rocker cover gaskets are a common leak source. Bolts are 8mm but 12 point not 6 point like you normally find so you need a 12 point socket. No need to replace the inlet manifold (aka Valley) gasket unless for some reason you decide to take the inlet manifold off, which you don't need to do to change rocker cover gaskets.
We gassed the 2001 Vogue that used to belong to OldShep yesterday while sorting out a few other bits and pieces on it. Having had the Nitrogen put in to pressure test it and vacuumed before the refrigerant went in, we got it down to 6.2 degrees from the vents.
Most generic readers will work for engine codes, particularly on the Thor, as it is fully OBD2 compliant so I doubt a Nanocom will give anything that the others won't..
The pop wasn't a spit back though the inlet by any chance? Have you got any air leaks between MAF and throttle body?
Continuing with my 400,000 mile service, a bit premature as it's only showing 399,776 at the moment, but I should hit the milestone later this week. I've had a tiny coolant leak for about a year, only needing a top up every 1,000 miles or so, but it still needed a top up which annoyed me. Drips could be seen off the RH engine mount so I figured it was probably coming from the corner of the head gasket as David, Rutland Rover, had a similar leak some time ago. Having just replaced the head gaskets to cure the oil leak on the same side, I expected it to stop. But it didn't....
So, today was earmarked for dealing with the coolant leak and a gearbox fluid and filter change. Cobbled together some bits of hose and a Schrader valve so I could get some pressure in the cooling system and wound it up to about 25 psi. Laying under it I could see a little drip appearing from the edge of the middle core plug, running down and dripping off the engine mount. The core plugs were changed 120,000 miles ago when V8 Developments rebuilt the engine and it's always had anti freeze in it so it wasn't rotten just leaking around the edge. I briefly considered K-Seal after Bolts success, then epoxy putty over the top of it but as I'd got a couple of new core plugs in the garage figured I'd do the job properly. Off with the front wheel, wheelarch liner and starter motor to give me a way in and a bit of room while the cooling system was draining into a bucket from the drain on the bottom of the rad. A tap with a punch ground down to a bevelled edge soon had the old core plug out (along with at least another 3 litres of coolant, the first half litre of which went down my arm). Went to put the new one in (with Loctite around the edge to make sure it sealed) only to find I couldn't get it to go in square as the engine mount was in the way. So the engine mount was going to have to come off but the top bolt was hidden behind the exhaust manifold. So that would have to come off too. As it has only been on for just over a week, and the wheelarch liner was out so I could easily get to the remaining heatshield bolts and all the manifold bolts (including the rear bottom one), that was pretty straightforward, surprisingly. Out with the engine crane and a strap around the alternator mount meant I could lift that side of the engine. Engine mount nuts off and unbolted the bracket from the block. Now I know that I put those brackets on but I must have been feeling stronger then than I was today, bugger they were tight! Second attempt with a new core plug and Loctite and it went in nice and straight. Before going any further, bunged two or three litres of antifreeze in it and connected my pressure tester. No more leaks, even when I cranked the pressure up to 40 psi. So put it all back together. As Mr Haynes says, reassembly is the reverse of the above. Refilled and bled the cooling system but decided against starting it yet as I'd still got the gearbox fluid and filter to change and ATF is pretty horrible on your hands and hot ATF is even worse.
Drained the gearbox fluid, which was clean and not burnt looking at all, just a bit dirty, into a washing up bowl so I would be able to check how much came out and put the same amount back in when the time came. Expected the dipstick tube to be a pita but with a big pair of Stilsons it came undone easily. Off with the sump, went to undo the Torx headed bolts that hold the filter and pickup tube in place only to find they are T27 and my set goes from T25 to T30 with nothing in between. Went hunting and found another set, which included a T27 (at least it meant I didn't have to send Dina down to Toolstation to buy one). Undo the bolts and another half litre or so of ATF dribbed out. Over the floor this time as I'd moved the bowl out of the way.......
Having seen the state of the filter that Strange Rover had taken out of his, pulled the old one apart only to find hardly anything in it at all. New filter fitted, sump back on (with a new gasket) and stole the Pyrex measuring jug out of the kitchen to measure how much had come out. 5.2 litres plus what came out of the filter, so the 6 litres I'd bought was about spot on. Fortunately, the GEMS has a dipstick tube that doubles as a filling tube but my funnel was too big to fit in it so more bodgery required to make a funnel. Filled the gearbox and finally thought about firing up the engine. Ran through the gears a few times and checked the fluid level, spot on. Made sure coolant was properly bled and took it out for a run.
Did about 10 miles or so, got back, suspension on high and get underneath. No oil leaks, no coolant leaks, no ATF leaks, bugger me, it'll start going rusty now!!
Wiring goes directly to the ECU, so you can't blame the multiway connector for that one. If you disconnect the arm and put an Ohm meter across one of the outer pins and the centre one and you'll find there's a dead spot in it, probably around the standard or motorway height position.
That's the only way to do it and the hardest part is opening the little tabs on the sun visor clips to get to the screw underneath without breaking the tab off. Sliding panel is easy enough once the glass is off (4 Torx screws) and you wouldn't do the rest without doing that too.
It's £72 for the kit from Martrim and with 3 people it's easy to do. In fact, I'd rather do the headlining than remove the numerous screws and clips to take it out. Have a look at this https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/headlining-kit-tutorial.php
Try swapping the plugs over to confirm it is a dead pump and not a wiring problem.
Yes it can, or it can be accessed from underneath. Rear washer pump is the one nearest the outside of the car with the black plug. If you find the pump is working but no water getting to the back, there's a non-return valve that goes non-return in both directions under the LH rear parcel shelf.
Because I edited your post so the picture appeared rather than just a link.
You would have seen your text, then the image link within the img in square brackets, then the rest of the text. I removed the img bits, then cut the link and pasted it into the popup box.
Delete the img commands before and after it, so all you have is a link starting with https and ending with .jpg. Click on the insert image box along the top (where you have, from left to right, Bold, Italic, Heading, Link and Image) and a box will pop up. Paste the link address in that box (making sure you overwrite the https that is already in there), click OK and a string of text will appear in your post, ignore that and when you click Reply to send your post, the picture will appear. You can click the Preview button before posting to check that you got it right (and click it again to go back to editing mode).
If you click the edit button on your post, you'll see what I have done so the picture appears.
Blimey, a bloke who does what his wife tells him! that would be Gordonjcp who runs this site and works in Hamilton. Welcome along, most of us on here have been there and done it so when something stops working, you'll find someone who can help.
Michelin Latitudes and Pirelli Scorpions were what was fitted as standard from the factory (depending on what they had kicking around at the time), so you won't go far wrong with either of them.
The K-Seal we get here (but made in USA) comes in an 8 fl oz blue plastic bottle and has a coppery colour. According to their website, it has fibres that block the hole and tiny copper particles to fill the gaps between the fibres. It is usually that which can be seen in the header tank looking like it has been sprayed with copper coloured metalflake paint.
Not sure what SR had in his radiator, or how much Steel Seal had been used. Sodium Silicate usually just makes the coolant slightly cloudy and if any is spilled anywhere it dries as a whitish powder. Never seen it solidify like that, although there are warnings that it isn't compatible with OAT anti-freeze, only Ethylene Glycol, so maybe it was mixed with something it shouldn't be mixed with?
Sloth wrote:
On most modern normal cars the compressor runs all the time now
and, unfortunately, last no more than about 5 years......
Because of the amount of current they'd draw. It isn't noticeable on a P38 because even at idle there's plenty of torque available to turn the compressor and the ECU is given a signal from the HEVAC to open the IACV to keep the revs stable when it engages (stick the Nano on and look at the idle air valve opening and watch what happens when the compressor engages). On my daughter's 1.8 litre Toyota Celica, you can hear the revs drop when it engages and she only uses it when she really has to as the fuel gauge plummets too.
No doubt someone will come up with an electric compressor sooner or later just like quite a number of cars now have electric power steering. The modern DC Inverter, heat pump domestic systems are very efficient, giving 3kW of heating or cooling for 600-700W of electrical input so it wouldn't surprise me if someone starts putting a similar system (the components are the same, compressor, condenser, evaporator, refrigerant it's just the electronic control that is different) in a car. Could do away with the conventional heater running off the cars cooling system too. So you'd be buggered trying to find heater hoses to plumb an LPG system into.......