It's very quiet and you probably don't notice it over the sound of the ABS and EAS pumps.

When working correctly, the HEVAC drives the motor whichever way it needs to go to increase or decrease the temperature. However, it relies on getting feedback from the pot so it knows what position it is in. If it doesn't see a signal from the feedback pot, it logs the error and doesn't try to move it again. When you first turn the ignition on, it drives all 3 blend motors from one end of their travel to the other. If it doesn't see full movement, or any at all from any of the 3, it won't try to use that one again and will turn the book symbol on.

If you are fitting the same one back it won't need calibrating and if you've given the feedback pot a good squirt of contact cleaner you may find it will now work. If it doesn't you need to replace it with a blend motor, the 5 wire version.

So how robust is the printed result Dave? Having got mine out of the car to take the photos of it, I noticed it was a bit sticky inside where I'd obviously split something in it. Rather than wash it I was feeling lazy so bunged it in the dishwasher. It's just been handed to me (with the comment of, "and what was this doing in my dishwasher?") and it's changed colour. It's gone a sort of cloudy grey colour. Clean though.....

There is a forum for Nanocom owners, although I think my first step will be to update the firm/soft ware as it hasn't been done for ages. I can easily see if it has corrected it by checking my temp up/down buttons and seeing if it shows the correct side.

and even then they won't be spot on. I have to set the RH side 1 degree higher than the LH side to get air at the same temperature out of both sides.

Or at least doesn't know it's left from it's right. I'm aware that it misreports ABS sensors as wrong but discovered a different one today. Fitted a Marty zebra strip to a HEVAC to get all of the display working and then set about checking why it had the book showing. Checking the faults and it showed RH blower as faulty, looking at the input values, it showed 0 as the feedback from the RH blower. So the blower was pulled out, the motor checked and the controller swapped for a known good one. Only to find it made no difference, still got the book showing. Figured this needed further investigation so decided to check the HEVAC before putting the console back together. Display checked fine (as expected) and then went on to check all the buttons. Poking the LH Temp down button and the Nano reported RH temp down, LH temp up showed RH temp up, RH temp down showed it as LH as did the RH up. So it has got them the wrong way round, what about the blowers? As the panel was still off, while the blower was running, disconnected the thin ground wire and the blower stopped and it went very quite. LH blower wasn't running and there was nothing wrong with the RH one at all. Found the problem with the LH blower, both now working perfectly and no book showing but had it told me it was the LH one in the first place I'd have saved an hour in pulling and checking the RH one.

It will, but a recirculate motor has no feedback so the HEVAC doesn't know what position it's in so won't try to drive it. You need a 5 wire blend motor, not recirculate motor.

How many wires does it have, 2 or 5? If it has only two, then it is a recirculate motor not a blend motor.

Anyone can stick a label on, the main difference you'll notice immediately is the OE pump was painted black while the Dunlop ones had the pump housing in unpainted alloy. Bits are interchangeable between the two types though.

I'm amazed he's found a pair of P38 seats with heaters that still work......

That's the easy fix, it gets slightly more difficult when it has split at the brake pedal switch or where it goes through the bulkhead. Even then, the hardest part is getting it through the grommet in the bulkhead and standing on your head in the footwell connecting it to the switch. But no matter which, it's still a simple enough job.

Looks good. About the only difference I can see is that the OE one will fit even if the cubby is half full of assorted bits and pieces, as long as nothing is higher than the front edge, whereas yours needs the cubby to be empty, or at least almost empty as it sits down inside it rather than on the top of the front edge. The way you've done it means the cans are going to be further out from the dash but I don't suppose that will make too much difference. Unless you were to move the left side one out quite a lot, it'll still obscure the clock so I think it's something that people would need to live with. Original also has 70mm ID on the holders so about right. Ideal size for a full size can (not one of the skinny Red Bull cans) and a Costa coffee cup.

Tried Googling the part number and got no hits so just checked mine, it should be LRN32685. What have to done on the underside so it can't slip out, the same as the original? Putting sides on it is a good idea although I tend to only use mine when I've actually got a drink to put in it. It annoys me that with a can in there it obscures either the EAS height or the clock depending on what side hole I use.

Here's my OE one

Bought as new old stock from an eBay seller in the US, cost about £18 all in.

I use line in on the Ascot (Clarion with the line in added) and the ex-plod when I'm out of the country. Ex-plod has a DAB radio in it (with line in as standard) but DAB doesn't work as soon as you leave the UK, so I have a tablet I use to stream audio through the line in. Quality is actually better than DAB as most DAB stations are in mono but the stream from the same station is in stereo.

What's wrong with just looking at http://new.lrcat.com/, all models up to 2015.

Most likely. Right hand airbag will be the one in the seat, if it was the steering wheel one it will say Drivers airbag fault.

If you've got the earlier Clarion, it's dead easy and works perfectly, detects an audio input and fades it in while fading out whatever source you've got selected. If you've got the later Alpine head unit, it isn't so easy. If your CD is dead then you could always connect to that so selecting CD will give you line in instead.

If they were rubber under the stainless, then they were cheap, pretty, replacements. The genuine Goodridge is PTFE tube so the only thing that can fail is the connections to the ends.

Originally there was a pair of connectors next to the bulkhead lower down before the pipes connect to the long ones that run to the back of the car. They can be seen easily with the RH front inner wheelarch liner out. They are the only joins that should be there. After that they are clipped to the underside before disappearing above the fuel tank and various other bits and pieces. There's a good diagram of where they run in RAVE even though it is wrong and shows a pic of a RHD car but says it is for LHD and vice versa.