Code not fob. I have too, I've got a contact stored called EKA. Not sure how Mick reset his by disconnecting the battery, normally all that does is cause you to have to reset the windows.
ChrisNo10, RomanRob and Marty (and probably a few others) have replaced the original with an Android head unit. No doubt one of them will give you some tips and pictures.
We get ripped off for most things. £1.25 a litre for petrol being the main reason why so many of us run on LPG as it's half that.
It's also in RAVE if you have the full version.
The only prep I did was wipe a rag soaked in paint thinners over the surface just before spraying the paint on.
have you got that engine out yet?
I suppose it depends on what you can get wherever you are. I doubt George gets the same stuff in the Philippines as we get here or you will get there. If you use normal satin or matt black it will flake off as it doesn't usually have a plasticiser in it to make it flexible so isn't ideal on plastic. I use a can of stuff sold as black bumper paint which is a satin black but made to be sprayed onto plastic bumpers. I also took all the side rubbing strips off and used it on them too. This https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hycote-Bumper-Vinyl-Paint-Black/dp/B005NGZYJI/ is what I use but as I say, you may not be able to get it in your location
ATF should be bright red?
Just been out and clogged the traffic in the village. Driving at around 10 mph in standard height, push the Inhibit button, select Access. It drops to motorway height, motorway height light lit with Access height light flashing. Slow right down, into N, foot off the brake pedal (as all suspension movement is inhibited when the brake pedal is pressed) and it drops down to Access. Back into D and drive off slowly in crawl mode. As soon as the speed increases up to maybe 5 mph, as the Inhibit button is still in, it rises to Motorway height.
Or just kill the EAS completely then you'll be in Access height all the time......
I don't think I've ever tried selecting Access while moving, I tend to select it then hit the inhibit button while stationary then drive off in Access. As long as you are doing less than 35 mph, I thought you can push the Inhibit button and then select Access while moving. I'll go outside and try it in mine shortly and let you know what happens.
RTFM, it tells you that.......
I went to one car where various people had tried diagnostics and none would connect. I found that none would connect except for the BeCM which would and tested perfect. Turned out the feed to the main Ignition relay was damaged so that wasn't operating so none of the other systems were powered. What was even more confusing was that the dash isn't fed from the ignition relay but direct from the BeCM so everything lit up with the key in position 2. Everything except the Check Engine light as that is fed from the engine ECU which wasn't being powered up.
If you don't have front fogs, then chances are the wiring for them will be there (if it isn't you'd need to run a feed from the relevant outputs on the BeCM). Fit a front fog light switch, tell the BeCM it is fitted with front fogs and connect the new lights to the plugs that will be dangling there connected to nothing. The front fogs will come on with sidelights, dip beam and main beam but go off as soon as you turn the main lights off. No need for a separate relay, the circuits are protected by the MOSFETs in the BeCM that supply the power.
leolito wrote:
I wish we could setup Access Mode at limited speed like newer RRs can do, to do this in ours we need a way to fool the EAS which looks for the "P" >and the vehicle speed at zero...
But you can? Select Access, push the inhibit button and it stays in Access. I use it often in some of the French underground multi-storey car parks that have very little headroom. It complains if you reach 35 mph in Access but without the inhibit pushed in, it will rise to normal whether you want it to or not.
The extra socket on the NS has permanent power, ignition switched power, reversing light power and ground in it. I've used it to pick up a feed for a reversing camera and for a pair of additional power sockets in the boot. I've still got the original 7 pin trailer socket though.
The small 8mm headed ones do tend to seize in for some reason and the heads appear to be quite soft and round off easily. I've resorted to giving them a tap with a cold chisel on the edge of the flange to get them moving at times.
No, never had a problem at the engine end (probably as the fittings are well lubricated), it's just the steel/alloy joint at the cooler end that causes problems. That and the engine isn't going to move when you put lots of torque on the fittings but the cooler can as it is only bolted to thin steel.
I used an angle grinder to carefully cut the nut lengthwise just at the point where the thread is so it could be removed to replace the pipe without shearing the end off the cooler.
Small ones, FS106257L, M6 x 25 flange head, larger ones with the conical bit behind the head, 594134. Although I don't think I've ever come across a car that has had all of the bolts in.
I've got Vredestein Quadtrac 5 on mine and they are brilliant in all conditions and have lasted very well too (just over half worn after nearly 50,000 miles). They don't appear to make them in the 255/55 x 18 size you need but they do make the Quadtrac Pro which appears to be very similar. An all season tyre but with the 3 peaks marking and winter tread pattern on the inner edge of the tyre which worked very well in snow in Estonia. Superb in the wet too. About a million times better than the Goodyears I had on before......
Doesn't matter what gear the gearbox is left in as you've disconnected the flex plate bolts so that is clear. There's the 8 (2 at the top, 2 at the bottom and 2 down each side, which can be a pain to get a socket on) bellhousing bolts and the starter motor bolts and that's all that connects the engine to bellhousinhg. There are dowel pegs to align everything and it might just be stuck on them. Get something in to lever the engine away and see if you've got any movement. Make sure the gearbox weight is supported too, in fact, with a jack under the bellhousing you should be able to see a gap open up if you try the raise the gearbox.