I've checked by simply taking the brake calliper and carrier off, unplugging the ABS sensor then removing the 6 bolts that hold the hub in place. Pull the whole lot out with half shaft, ABS sensor and brake disc. You can then spin the bearing to check it in under half an hour.

That's why it isn't worth trying to replace the bearings, just replace the complete hub unit.

+1 on cotton, or a couple of very small croc clips.

Is the tightness in the bearing or the diff? The only way you can really check the bearings is with the hub and half shaft off the car.

That's how you do it but it seems to give problems for a lot of people for some reason. It can be a bit of a pain to have to upload the image to imgur or similar and then link to them rather just uploading directly. It's one of the upgrades to the site Gordon intends doing when he get round to it.

Being narrower I wouldn't expect them to foul the wheelarch other than maybe hitting the plastic inner wing when at Access height. Looking at mine, there's easily over an inch of clearance front and rear of the tyres to the bodywork (might get a bit close to the mudflaps though) so they shouldn't touch anything at standard or motorway height.

From https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

This gives you the overall diameters so you will be able to get your tape measure out, check it at different heights and see when/if they are going to foul against anything.

How long is a piece of string? The CVC cars were 50 that were pre-production press demonstrators (known as CVC as they were all registered as MxxxCVC) and came in every trim spec and engine variant that was going (including at least one in full police livery) to be available when released to the public. They are rare and I suspect a number of the original 50 have been scrapped over the years by people not realising the relevance. David's will most certainly be concourse when finished, absolutely everything has been done on it.

Maximum torque, on a GEMS anyway, is around 2500-3000 (https://www.automobile-catalog.com/curve/1997/1398590/range_rover_4_6_hse.html) which is why you get better economy at 70-80 mph than at lower speeds as the engine is running at it's most efficient. There's naff all below 2,000 rpm though.

Tuning a P38 is different to tuning the same engine in something like a Morgan. We don't need more power at the top end and a high revving engine, we need the grunt low down.

Agreed David, beautiful job

Re-covering knowledge https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/headlining-kit-tutorial.php

leolito wrote:

If you lock the car - or the BeCM on the test bench and the alarm , then "open/unlock" but without the key but from the inside door latch, does the alarm goes off and the car is disarmed?

No, the alarm is triggered and the immobiliser stays on. If the car is locked with the key, it needs to see a signal from both the keyswitch and CDL switch to tell the BeCM that the car has been unlocked with the key. If you leave a window open and unlock it with the sill button, it sees the CDL switch operating but not the keyswitch so thinks you are trying to steal it.

The orangy decayed foam is definitely sticky. When we had the headlining session at Marty's workshop, my better half was doing shell cleaning duties. She ended up with 1" platform soles on her trainers which then picked up every piece of gravel in the yard when she emerged from the workshop.

We decided to do mine when we were driving back from the south of France. It was drooping a bit at the back but not too bad. However, the AC compressor clutch was well worn so the air gap was too big meaning it didn't always kick in when it should so we opened the windows. The breeze inside the car caused the headlining material to be pulled from the tailgate rubber and the whole car filled with sticky orange dust within about 2 seconds. It took forever to clean it all out of everywhere.

Only problem is that the D1 didn't have air con. We had one at work from new ('93, 200TDi with twin sunroofs). On a hot day you are driving a mobile greenhouse.....

We did mine, the first time we'd tackled a headlining, with just the two of us but had to rope step daughter in so there was two people to hold it up and a third to smooth it down. I used a small foam headed paint roller.

Errm, who was it that was on trimming duty when we had our mass headlining session at Marty's workshop?

NAS spec? Are you at Mildenhall/Lakenheath?

You aren't the only one, BrianH also runs a V8 Disco 2 and they do share quite a few parts with the P38. Welcome.

Huh? There should only be one anyway. LH side of the car.

New headlining material is foam backed so the rotting remains of the foam needs to be removed from the shell. Wire brush works well.

Battery hold down strap. Runs from the front slam panel to a threaded rod that should poke out from behind the battery. The clip is for the radiator bleed pipe.