The ones he's got are the NGK PFR6N-11 Platinum plugs which are the recommended ones for a Thor (rather than the BPR6ES copper core for GEMS). My point is that after 10 miles I would expect them to still look like they did when put in and not covered in soot.
Now you've done one side, the second one shouldn't take more than an hour at most. It's like everything, takes ages to do the first time and once you've done it, it's dead easy second time round. I've got heater core O rings down to under an hour start to finish now......
Avoid the orange seals and fit them dry, no lubricant of any sort.
Not been in there any further than the blower recently but I would expect it to be much the same as a LH one on a RHD car. In which case if you open the glovebox and undo the 5 screws around the edge, the whole lot drops down (and you don't have to spend hours adjusting the glovebox lid to get it to close properly again). At least then you should be able to see it and work out for yourself how easy or otherwise it is to get to. It might be much like the blend motors where you can get to them with the dash in place, it's just a bit fiddly.
Welcome, although you've just got rid of the reason for this forum existing as we are mostly (if not all) P38 owners on here. However, we're always interested in learning about the later ones...... What is it, a proper one or one of these oil burners?
Just make sure you get a round in and nobody will tell you to do anything, except maybe get another one in.
These are 4 that I took out of my car a few days ago and they've done 10,000 miles......
Yet you've got that much build up in 10 miles? I would expect them to come out looking much the same as when they went in after such a short time. Have you done a compression check? Any blue smoke?
Pull it out not push it in. When the pipe is in place and there is pressure behind it, the collet lifts up to grip the pipe. With no pressure it just falls inside the hole and stays there.
Oddly, the Dunlop components are interchangeable with the OE compressors and the only visible difference is the outer casting being plain alloy and not painted black. I know of one that failed, although not sure what type it was, where someone had put a new seal in it but hadn't lined the grub screw up with the flat on the shaft so it started to spin. When I put them together I always screw the grub screw in partly so it will only go on if it lines up with the flat.
1 and 8 look to be running rich and there doesn't appear to be much consistency amongst the others either. I'm still intrigued by the pop that caused it all to start as I can't think of anything that would go pop then affect running like this.
Pressing the inhibit button won't stop it if you have any slight leaks or if it is parked on uneven ground so it self levels. Take the timer relay out from under the LH seat when not in use to stop it trying to self level.
You'll need to let the pressure out first (although cutting the pipes will let it out pretty quick anyway). Cut the pipes squarely with a sharp Stanley knife then chamfer the ends with a pencil sharpener.
How? You'd have to disconnect at least one end.
Sounds like the pump is worn out, as said, you need at least 100psi before there's enough pressure to lift the weight of the car but the system runs at around 150psi.
The cables that plod ran in on mine when they installed the aux battery are attached to the inside of the RH chassis rail. Admittedly, the drilled holes in the boot floor to bring them up into the RH corner and the aux battery was fitted there.
You can get the rubber bladders for the air springs on a Classic as separate items but I've never seen them for a P38.
I've know the crank bearing break up on a Dunlop pump too.
I was thinking the opposite, shame the LPG filler is where it is. Mine is mounted where the second towbar electrical plug would go if I had twin electrics, convenient to get to and I can fill up from either side of the pump.
Step by step is in RAVE.
Unless you want them to be impossible to remove, yes, you need to deflate them but pushing the collet in and pulling the pipe out will do that. Suggest you put it on low height first so it doesn't plummet to the floor.
It is easier to remove the liner but by pulling it out and jamming something in to hold it out means you can get in there to release the top clips.
Fronts are OK and difficulty varies depending on whether you remove the liner or work around it. Bottom clip can put up a bit of a fight getting it out. Rears are often jammed in at the top and the clip will often break off as it will have rusted into place. If you don't want to keep them, a 1" wood chisel slid in between chassis rail and body and given a good clout with a mallet will chop the top off the plastic so the air spring just drops out.
What non-OE parts? Genuine Dunlop springs are around £50 a corner.
It's a good idea to trim a mm or so off the ends of the pipes as per RAVE. They will have a groove worn in them from teh old O rings so by trimming the end, the new O rings will be bearing on clean pipe. A squirt of Fairy Liquid/Water mix will help the pipes slide in easier and will also show if you have any leaks.