If you mean the one on the opposite side to the throttle body, no. Then there's the one from the other rocker cover into the throttle body, that often goes all squishy and horrible as well as the little one that is hidden..

Main problem is that it attacks rubber so any hoses or seals in the fuel system need to be changed. From 1999 onwards manufacturers stopped using any rubber components anyway which is why they say it should only be used in cars built from 2000. I only use petrol the same as a spare wheel anyway, it's just there in case of emergency.

There's also a thin vacuum pipe to the fuel pressure regulator tucked away under the bracket for the throttle cable. That often gets missed and can split at the end.

For GEMS, https://www.direnza.co.uk/range-rover-p38-4-0l-4-6l-v8-94-99-aluminium-radiator, or the same thing from the same supplier via eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/55mm-ALUMINIUM-SPORT-RADIATOR-RAD-FOR-LAND-RANGE-ROVER-MK2-P38-4-0-4-6-V8-94-99/352577843032

For diesel, https://www.direnza.co.uk/range-rover-p38-2-5-td-94-99-aluminium-radiator, or via eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/55mm-TWIN-CORE-ALUMINIUM-RACE-RADIATOR-RAD-FOR-LAND-RANGE-ROVER-2-5-TD-P38-94-99/392067849387

Thor has the top spigot on the opposite side to GEMS but they don't list one for the Thor.

I've bought about 5 Direnza ones now for myself and different people, odd that the one for a GEMS petrol without the integrated oil cooler is more expensive than the one for a diesel. More recent ones are slightly different to the older ones with Direnza pressed into the top and a serial number sticker whereas the earlier ones were just plain alloy and no serial number on them. Highest temperature I have seen since fitting it is 96 degrees and that was after driving at around 80 mph for 200 miles when it was 41 degrees outside. Under normal circumstances I've never seen over 93 degrees.

6.6 from completely dry but that includes the oil cooler and it's hoses. After a drain and filter change you'll be looking at between 5 and 5.5 litres.

It isn't a case of them not running on it, it's a case that the higher Ethanol content will attack some of the materials in the fuel system. Obviously the steel fuel pipes will be fine but it is some of the flexi sections of hose that may be degraded. It's only going from 5% Ethanol to 10% but E15 has been the norm in most European countries for about 2 years now. I've put E15 in my P38 and my old 1993 Classic, without any adverse affects but I will admit, if I was going to run on it regularly, I'd renew all the fuel lines maybe even with Goodridge 200 series braided Nitrile.

AWR2174 is the plastic bit the the screws go into but they seem to be the only screws that aren't listed, probably because they are just standard self tapping screws. The ones that hold the plenum on are DA610065L which are the large headed screws that seem to hold the entire car together, see https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Discovery-2-Range-Rover-P38-New-Genuine-Self-Tapping-Screw-Pack-of-5-DA610065L-/112504795164

Bloody hell, no wonder it was sitting on the piss, that's ridiculous. Why would someone have saved settings like that?

How much did you have to alter the heights by, quite a bit I would think. When you come to do the access height, the blocks are about flush with the end of the bumpstops. No problem putting them in but a pain to get them out again. I drilled a hole in the end and tapped it with an M6 thread so I can screw a bolt in to pull them out with.

So now you can either do the motorway and access heights or clean your idle air valve......

Sounds about right. Does it look right?

Yes, definitely a good thing as it is building pressure and holding it.

Quite possibly. The fuel flap pushbutton applies a ground into the BeCM, is passed through some circuitry and operates an internal relay which then powers the release motor. So the circuitry may well not operate the relay if the system is in an alarmed state.

Next time you run it, switch over to petrol a minute or so before turning it off. If it still does it, then it isn't a leaking diaphragm.

Only if he's running it on LPG. If you are Henry, switch back to petrol 30 seconds or so before switching off. That will allow any leaking gas to be used up so it won't flood the inlet. If only running on petrol, it isn't that as the solenoids won't have allowed any gas into the reducer.

Yes, unlock but don't open a door within 30 seconds and it assumes you've pressed the button on the fob by mistake, or in your pocket, so relocks.

If your fuel flap release button is missing, for the time being you could always wire the magic silver button to the plug instead.....

Power for the fuel flap comes from Fuse 14 but there is no relay involved (well there is but it's an internal one inside the BeCM). Button would have been in the instrument panel surround to the left. It doesn't lock as such, when you poke the button, it pops open so it isn't the same as some cars that have to be opened, it does that for you. If you take the instrument panel surround off you should find the connector for the pushbutton (black 5 way connector with only 2 wires into it, a Black and a Light Green/Grey) dangling in there somewhere. With the ignition off, it you short those two wires together you should hear the filler flap release grunt at you.

Grizzly wrote:

Turned the key and got engine disabled message, press button. It never gave me the EKA message.

So I pressed the unlock button and she fired up with the key !!!!

Passive immobilisation is still enabled in the BeCM. If you unlock it but don't start it within 30 seconds, the immobiliser (but not the alarm) kicks in again so you need to press unlock on the fob, to turn the immobiliser off before starting it. From about 97 onwards they fitted a coil around the ignition lock that caused the fob to transmit the unlock code as soon as you put the key in the ignition so it did it for you but yours, being a very early car, won't have that. The coil regularly fails anyway so it stops working. Once you get it on the road and can get it near to someone with a Nanocom, that 'feature' can be turned off so it doesn't matter. With it turned off, once unlocked you can start it no matter how long you wait before trying to start it. It can be a bit of a pain if you unlock it to put your shopping in the boot and find the immobiliser has kicked in again when you come to start it. Admittedly, I got into the habit of pressing unlock as I put the key in the ignition anyway (as my coil failed long ago) until I got the Nano and turned it off.

Maybe there was nothing wrong with the petrol flap release. It will only open with the ignition off and if someone didn't realise that and tried opening it while the ignition was on, then it won't open so they forced it and broke the clip.

The front fascia pulls off, then you can use either the proper Clarion tools or a pair of feeler gauges.

Try entering the EKA now you have it and the hazards flash when you turn the key. Early cars didn't need the 4 turns to lock to initialise it, so you just enter the first number by turning to unlock (clockwise). If the number is 1234, that is 1 turn to unlock, 2 turns to lock, 3 turns to unlock, 4 turns to lock, then to unlock and all your doors should pop open. Do it slowly and deliberately, making sure you fully return the key to the centre position between each turn and make sure the hazards flash on each turn. If it accepts the EKA, then you will be able to sync the fob too. In fact, if it accepts the EKA you may find you no longer get the engine immobilised message so can put the starter relay back in and start it on the key.