Yes you can enter the EKA no matter how early. Difference is that on a later car you need to do 4 turns to lock first, then enter the first number with turns to unlock. On an early one you start with the turns to unlock using the first number of the EKA. Where online did you find bollox about only being able to do it on 99 onwards? There wouldn't be a lot of point having an EKA if you can't enter it. You need a car with a BeCM with V36 or later firmware (from around mid 97) to be able to enter it with a Nanocom or other diagnostics but on all other cars you enter it with the key in the door lock. I have to enter it manually on a regular basis on the Ascot (a 96) as it needs one of Marty's fob filters which means the battery goes flat after a couple of weeks.
Depends if you just want an alternative to the sat nav or to completely replace the whole sat nav and audio system. If you want to keep the existing stereo and just replace the sat nav the easiest option is to fit a small tablet in it's place.
Ooh, the best colour of them all and I agree with you completely, I also think they look awful. At least if someone got the ones that are incorporated with the front bull bar, they can be fitted without having to damage the bodywork (but I think the bull bar looks even worse).
I think all the various scenarios were thought about when the system was programmed. It was introduced on the Classic when it started to become more of a luxury car than an off roader and started being bought by people as an alternative to something like an S Class Mercedes. They then found that if they drove it like an S Class and had to apply the brakes while swerving it had a nasty habit of falling over. So the EAS was introduced with the lowering at speed to lower the centre of gravity to stop it from doing that. I remember once seeing a comparison between a Classic on coil springs and one on EAS (it may even have been a very early Top Gear) where the older one on coils rolled onto its side while the one of EAS went where the driver pointed it. There's other features that are obvious when you think about it. It won't lower when a door is open otherwise you could drop it down and crunch the bottom of the open door on a rock or high kerb for instance.
If I have need for crawl mode at Access height it is usually when going into an underground car park with restricted headroom. I have to stop at the entrance to get my ticket anyway so rather than hold it on the brake, I drop it into P, poke the rocker for Access, poke the Inhibit button and then drive in keeping my speed down.
They don't protect the lights from stone chips and in 10 years and almost 200,000 miles the only damage I've had to lights is a stone chip hole in a front fog. The lights are a lot stronger than the aftermarket plastic ones too.
Even the factory ones involved drilling holes and fitting Rivnuts, pretty much vandalism in my view. You could plug the holes and paint over whatever you use to plug them but it will still be visible so filling the holes and painting is the only option. What colour is your car? Flat colours are pretty easy to match but if it's metallic then it does need doing by a pro.
Code not fob. I have too, I've got a contact stored called EKA. Not sure how Mick reset his by disconnecting the battery, normally all that does is cause you to have to reset the windows.
ChrisNo10, RomanRob and Marty (and probably a few others) have replaced the original with an Android head unit. No doubt one of them will give you some tips and pictures.
We get ripped off for most things. £1.25 a litre for petrol being the main reason why so many of us run on LPG as it's half that.
It's also in RAVE if you have the full version.
The only prep I did was wipe a rag soaked in paint thinners over the surface just before spraying the paint on.
have you got that engine out yet?
I suppose it depends on what you can get wherever you are. I doubt George gets the same stuff in the Philippines as we get here or you will get there. If you use normal satin or matt black it will flake off as it doesn't usually have a plasticiser in it to make it flexible so isn't ideal on plastic. I use a can of stuff sold as black bumper paint which is a satin black but made to be sprayed onto plastic bumpers. I also took all the side rubbing strips off and used it on them too. This https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hycote-Bumper-Vinyl-Paint-Black/dp/B005NGZYJI/ is what I use but as I say, you may not be able to get it in your location
ATF should be bright red?
Just been out and clogged the traffic in the village. Driving at around 10 mph in standard height, push the Inhibit button, select Access. It drops to motorway height, motorway height light lit with Access height light flashing. Slow right down, into N, foot off the brake pedal (as all suspension movement is inhibited when the brake pedal is pressed) and it drops down to Access. Back into D and drive off slowly in crawl mode. As soon as the speed increases up to maybe 5 mph, as the Inhibit button is still in, it rises to Motorway height.
Or just kill the EAS completely then you'll be in Access height all the time......
I don't think I've ever tried selecting Access while moving, I tend to select it then hit the inhibit button while stationary then drive off in Access. As long as you are doing less than 35 mph, I thought you can push the Inhibit button and then select Access while moving. I'll go outside and try it in mine shortly and let you know what happens.
RTFM, it tells you that.......
I went to one car where various people had tried diagnostics and none would connect. I found that none would connect except for the BeCM which would and tested perfect. Turned out the feed to the main Ignition relay was damaged so that wasn't operating so none of the other systems were powered. What was even more confusing was that the dash isn't fed from the ignition relay but direct from the BeCM so everything lit up with the key in position 2. Everything except the Check Engine light as that is fed from the engine ECU which wasn't being powered up.
If you don't have front fogs, then chances are the wiring for them will be there (if it isn't you'd need to run a feed from the relevant outputs on the BeCM). Fit a front fog light switch, tell the BeCM it is fitted with front fogs and connect the new lights to the plugs that will be dangling there connected to nothing. The front fogs will come on with sidelights, dip beam and main beam but go off as soon as you turn the main lights off. No need for a separate relay, the circuits are protected by the MOSFETs in the BeCM that supply the power.
leolito wrote:
I wish we could setup Access Mode at limited speed like newer RRs can do, to do this in ours we need a way to fool the EAS which looks for the "P" >and the vehicle speed at zero...
But you can? Select Access, push the inhibit button and it stays in Access. I use it often in some of the French underground multi-storey car parks that have very little headroom. It complains if you reach 35 mph in Access but without the inhibit pushed in, it will rise to normal whether you want it to or not.
The extra socket on the NS has permanent power, ignition switched power, reversing light power and ground in it. I've used it to pick up a feed for a reversing camera and for a pair of additional power sockets in the boot. I've still got the original 7 pin trailer socket though.