Yes, ABS sensor should just pull out although they do often put up a fight.
Put a couple of the bolts back in part way and belt them with a hammer. Not as effective as a sledge hammer on an old disc but usually works.
Not particularly, other than the odd local one arranged through PM, the only meetings have been the Summer Camps at Marty's workshop and they appear in Opening Time.
Yes, there's the Portal button to show any new posts since you last logged in and the forum headings also show if there's any new posts so a What's New topic would be a bit pointless. Unless you have a different idea of what it would be used for that is.
What would go in Whats New? Because it wouldn't be new in a couple of weeks? Maybe a Body and Interior section but not much more. If it's split down too much then most posts will be in the wrong place.....
Yes, it's a job for either engine out or gearbox off so if the box is coming off anyway, then that's the ideal time to do it.
What's your problem? Everywhere is showing it as in stock, you can even have a genuine LR one for under £40? https://www.lrdirect.com/PQR101150-Pulley-Aux.-Drive/
These https://www.workshopessentialsonline.com/product/cv-joint-boot-clips-clamps-x2-stainless-steel-universal-set-driveshaft-gator-8mm/ are the sort of clips that would have originally been on the CV joint gaiters.
One thing I noticed is that the ABS sensor wire looks very close to the air spring. Has it been moved or has someone routed it wrong?
Not on the list but I always take the radiator out too. With that out and the fan and viscous off, you've got acres of room at the front (and less chance of damaging the radiator). In case you may want to use the gearbox, jam a bit of wood into the hole in the bottom of the bellhousing to stop the torque converter falling out of the gearbox.
No, it's fixed at both ends, it doesn't spin at all, the whole thing turns. All it does is flex when the steering is turned.
A tie wrap on the CV joint gaiter suggests someone did do some maintenance in the past. Original gaiters would have had one of these thin steel clamp thingies but replacement gaiters come with tie wraps, just replace it with another and pull it up a bit tighter.
- The air springs start off thinner but get fatter with time due to being full of air that supports the weight of the car, so yes, they are correct.
- When you do the wheel nuts up to 80 ft/lb, the disc will be held firmly against the hub, if it isn't warped, don't worry about it.
- If there's no up and down movement they are fine. The rubber gaiters often split if a car has been left standing. The end sticks to the swivel so as soon as you turn the steering it rips the gaiter. Unfortunately an MoT fail (unless you get the Superglue out and un-split it.....).
- The CV joint gaiters don't turn, or they do but both ends do along with the drive shaft. If it doesn't fall off and let all the grease out, it's fine. If it really worries you replace the clip.
- The bushes were put on wrong when they were put in the box. Yes, the cone end does go towards each other and the washers go the other way up so the convex side is against the rubber bushes.
What amazes me is the amount of rust, normally everything is all black and oily from the Land Rover built in chassis lubrication system (aka front oil seal, rocker cover gaskets and anywhere else the engine can leak from). Those steering ball joints should never have passed an MoT in that state, they are well knackered......
Looks like the end of a radius arm to me.....
Huh? There wasn't a roll pin in either of the two I took apart. I bought a set of seats matching mine so I could do a mix and match with the best bits (drivers seat base had suffered a bit with a big fat copper sat in it for 8 years) and swapped the armrest over. That was just a case of undoing the bolt and off it came.
Good point, maybe we need an Interior and Trim section......
Gordon has been threatening to do an upgrade so that would be a good time.
Pull the plastic hinge cover off, it's just pushed in on a couple of pegs, and you'll see the bolt underneath that holds it on.
It didn't. The guy that owned it had only had it for 3 days when a bodged throttle body heater pipe burst and it lost most of the coolant and reduced the engine to scrap. It had been filled with plain water just to see if it would run again but with no compression at all on 6 cylinders and about 60 psi on the remaining two, we figured pulling it out and putting a replacement in was the best option. So a completely shot 4.0 litre came out and a very nice low mileage 4.6 went in. Took a weekend to do it but the results were definitely worth it.
Blanco wrote:
This is typical of what we get locally
A grand for something that can't even be driven? I sold my 4.0SE that was fully running and driving but with a cracked windscreen for £380. Would there be any mileage in importing them from UK? That might explain why when I advertised an old Yamaha 600 Diversion for sale it was bought by a guy from ROI who came over to collect a van load of bikes. Assume they go for similar silly money?
I think you've got a bargain there and it looks like it's been looked after too. Not your usual neglected/butchered older P38. What do you intend doing with it?
Current for the tailgate latch goes via the CDL switch in the drivers door. Maybe the CDL switch is starting to fail so the current draw causes it to go high resistance meaning the BeCM sees it as going open circuit enough to trigger the central locking? If you've got a new latch already, fit it.