The fact that it runs, then stops, runs then stops could suggest it is getting very hot and the thermal switch is doing it's job and cutting power then reconnecting it (rather than cutting it and staying cut like they do when they fail). It will get hot, or at least the air will, when it is compressed, but the actual motor part shouldn't get that hot unless it is working much harder than it should. Did the motor turn freely when you had it apart? Did you clean out the holes under the reed valves?

None at all, it's a DSE.......

Bet it's louder because you put the washers on the mounts the wrong way up. They are dished, bottom ones go on concave side down, top ones go on with the concave side up. You should get the tick, tick, tick when you switch off unless you are parked on a perfectly level surface. It levels 3 corners to match whichever one is lowest.

On the other side some of them need to ask for advice before changing a light bulb so can make everything seem difficult. Repairing the handle is a bit fiddly but there's a sticky on here (https://rangerovers.pub/topic/360-stiff-door-handles-solved-and-painless) on how to do it. For the front's, you can take the handles off without removing the door cards. Once you've taken the Torx screw out, you need to slide it back to release it, pull it out as far as it will come, disconnect the rod from the lock (on the drivers side anyway), then pull it out further and rotate to release the rod for the handle.

Self amalgamating tape is used on antenna connections on mobile phone masts so should be well up to the job of keeping any moisture out of the height sensor connections. Or if you really want to seal them, Denso tape is even better, horrible stuff to work with though.

You have to take the window frame out if you want to remove the latch, but if you just want to swap the outer door handles all you need do is open the door.

There's no need to take the door card off, just open the door. There's a Torx headed screw that goes through the door into the back of the handle. Remove that and slide the handle back and it pulls out. With it partially out you can disconnect the rod that connects it to the latch.

It's in RAVE under Chassis and Body, Repair, Outside Handle - Rear Door. That tells you to take the door card off but that is only if you want to replace the gaskets behind the handle, if you just want to take the handle off, there is no need.

Came very close when I bought my ex-plod. Bought as a spares or repair job on eBay with a burst rear air spring and a head gasket blowing into the Vee on one cylinder so it ran on 7 from a guy in York, about 130 miles away. Went up there in the Classic with a trailer to bring it back. The battery was flat but the seller jump started it and I was able to drive it onto the trailer. Got it home and went to unload it only to find the battery was flat again. Home at that time was a flat with a secure car park but the car was outside on the road (as I didn't fancy trying the turn the trailer around in the limited space in the car park). Connected a decent battery only to see Keycode Lockout showing on the dash. Went inside to Google this and found I had to wait for it to go out. Waited, it went out only to be replaced with Engine Immobilised, etc. Now what? Googled to see what this code it was asking for was and encountered the EKA for the first time which, I was reliably informed, would be in the handbook. Only problem was that I didn't have the handbook, all I had been given by the seller was a V5 and one working keyfob. All this time it was sitting on a hired trailer that had to be back at the hire place by 5:30 and it was getting on for 3pm.....

To this day I do not know how I managed to start it without the EKA but eventually, with much running back and forth between the car on the trailer and the computer in the house, I turned off the immobiliser, start it, get it off the trailer and drive it into the car park. I suspect all it needed was to be unlocked with the fob, or maybe with the key, I've no idea, but I did it somehow. First thing the next morning I went into the local LR main dealer and got the printout with the all important EKA in case I managed to do whatever it was that had caused it to be immobilised in the first place.

I must have been very lucky with it. First job was to replace both rear air springs and, having fitted the new ones, I didn't even need any diagnostics for the EAS. I just started it up (on 7), left it running for a while and up it came.

If using the free software, you can only set one height at a time. So put the blocks in for high, let it sit on the blocks, read the heights and write those. Then fit the next set and repeat. When I made my blocks I found getting the low profile ones out of the bumpstops was the hardest part of the whole job. So I drilled and tapped an M6 thread in the end so I can screw an M6 bolt in and use that so I've got something to get hold of and pull them out.

We are doing at the moment but you can guarantee that as soon as the lockdown is lifted so we can all go out again, the weather will turn to crap.....

Same as the fronts, undo the bolt that you can see with the door open, slide the handle forwards and pull it out.

Gorilla Glue expands when it dries, I use Evo Stick contact adhesive.

Strange. When I checked yesterday they were there, today they aren't. Not that I need them (as both my cars have a towing electrical socket on one side and the LPG filler on the other) but I thought that for 2 quid for 5 I could buy them and send one to you. Alas, not to be, someone obviously bought the last pack of 5. C'mon, own up, who was it?

Wouldn't have thought so. The weight of the paint will be negligible and if you've got an even coat it will still be balanced anyway.

You can from http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/p38a-eas-unlock-videos/167-range-rover-p38a-making-the-eas-serial-cable but if you don't have a spare OBD plug laying around, it's cheaper to buy a ready made cable than it is to buy just the plug.

You could try phoning Clarion. Whether or not they are working I've no idea, but they might be able to point you in the right direction.

They are, and that appears to be for a pack of 5!!

https://pablanchard.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=NTC8902

If it came out like that I'm not surprised the O ring is ruined, the barrel is upside down! The flat side goes on the bottom and the side with the step goes into the top to bear against the O ring.

As for a cable, it depends what laptop you intend using it with. Ideally you want something really old and low spec with a serial port so you don't have to use a serial/USB adapter. If you do need to use a USB adapter make sure you get one with an FTDI chipset or it will be constantly dropping the connection.

leolito wrote:

obviously you need a mains... uh, you guys in UK got what, 110V?

Nah, we get proper 240V, none of this wimpy 110V like they get in the States.....

Yes, it is the Clarion Diversity units that I've sent to Clarion in the past. However, they have a flat rate charge of £95 for a full refurb which includes removing the code and adding a line-in. If the unit is dead and needs repairing then that isn't too bad if you want to keep thing original, but a bit steep if all you need is the code removing. Clarion can be found here http://www.clarion-service.co.uk/cs/Repair.html although I have no idea if they are currently working. Might be an idea giving them a call and seeing if they can remove the code or maybe even tell you what it is from the serial number. Otherwise, this site has been used in the past with success https://instant-radio-code.com/clarion-radio-unlock-code