I agree, I've been there. I want a double height garage so I can get a lift in there too.
For some unknown reason RAVE says to remove the engine leaving the gearbox in place on a GEMS but to remove the whole lot as one lump on a Thor. As Harv says, if doing it in one lump you need the car high in the air as it's a long unit so engine alone is much easier. I found the boom on my 2 ton engine crane wasn't long enough unless I pulled it all the way out and even then it was hard up against the front number plate. With the boom all the way out obviously the safe working load was reduced but still OK and there's a reachet strap stopping it from being able to pull out any further. See pic and on this car the job wasn't made any easier with the bullbar in the way (and the fact we were working under a tent because it kept raining).
Can't be bad, looks far too good to use for spares. What year is it? I can see it's a pre-97 from the air filter housing and the purge valve pipe going into the upper inlet manifold rather that the throttle body. Must be an Oxford Blue thing though as the lacquer on the bonnet had peeled on the 4.0SE I had in the same colour and we don't get the sun you get where you are.
Yup, on the front of the throttle body, take it out, clean it and the hole it sits in, put it back. No need to disconnect the battery or fit a new gasket, just DON'T turn the ignition on with it out or unplugged.......
I once picked up a V12 Jag that I had to drive back to the UK from the south of France. Before I picked it up it had been taken in for a service to make sure it would make the journey. Within 50 miles of setting off the oil pressure was down to 15-20 psi running, dropping to near zero at idle. The oil on the dipstick looked awfully thin so I called the garage that had done the service and asked them what they had put in it, Oh, 5W-30 the same as we put in everything these days. Problem is the V12 engine was designed around the same time as ours and the sticker under the bonnet said to use 20W-50. Found a garage and bought a gallon of 15W-40, the thickest I could find and did an oil change over a drain. Oil pressure back up to 45-50 running and 20 psi at idle. As Morat says, getting the best economy figures they can manage rather than engine longevity is the manufacturers main interest these days so by specifying thinner oil might gain them an extra 0.5 mpg. Do they care if the engine is worn out after 100,000 miles? No of course they don't, they want you to buy a newer car.
That's what V8 Developments recommended when I picked the engine up after they'd rebuilt it, so that's what I've used every since. It's an engine design that goes back to the 1960's when multigrade oil was 20W 50 so that's what it would have been designed for. It's done another 115,000 miles since then and the oil is still as clean now as the first lot that went in.
I use mine all the time I'm on the Continent. They don't have streetlights on the motorways and as there's naff all traffic driving at night so it's just driving into the blackness. Dipped beam is good, main beam is superb (or they are with Osram Nightbreakers in there) but the fogs give a wide flat beam of light that illuminates the kerbs on both sides filling in the gaps close in. Never had anyone flash me for dazzling them, well, not unless I've got so used to driving on main beam that seeing someone coming the other way is such a shock I've forgotten to dip them.
If you've got cruise control you've got a high line BeCM. The plugs for the switches will be in the loom waiting for you to plug them in and the wiring for the front fogs will almost certainly be there too. As Dave says though, it isn't as simple as plugging the switch and lights in, the BeCM needs to be told they are fitted. It registers the switch being pressed and then outputs the power to the correct wires to cause them to light up. If it didn't have them before then it will be set as Fog Lamps, Not Fitted and that needs to be changed.
I've got the dangling plug for the cruise control switch even though I don't have cruise control.
Idle air valve needs cleaning as it's sticking.
Send it back, Rimmers are excellent for returns.
I use both Island 4x4 and LRDirect for anything I want and there's been very little to choose between them up until the current situation. However, I placed an order with LRDirect on Monday afternoon, arrived today. There's usually nothing to choose on price, Island are slightly cheaper for some things and LRDirect on others. Main difference is that you really need to find the part number of whatever you need on the Island site (or on LRCat) and paste it into the LRDirect site otherwise you won't always find what you are looking for.
Ring spanner and 2lb club hammer is my usual method of shocking them off. Make sure the ring spanner is fully on and give the end of it a swift clout.
Or there's always Machine Mart https://www.machinemart.co.uk/categories/?search=torque+wrench
No, Island 4x4 in Kent, https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/
It's cleaning up the soot from combustion which is why it stays cleaner when the engine runs on LPG as it's a much cleaner fuel and produces virtually no soot. For the same reason the oil in a diesel gets dirtier. You're right in that it cleans the engine but only if there is anything there to clean.
and not only the oil. One reason why I keep well away from diesels, other than I know naff all about them, is your hands go black just by opening the bonnet.....
Depends on how far you go. If it runs on petrol for 1 mile then on LPG for 9, that's 10% on petrol but, if like me you run on petrol for 1 mile then on LPG for 200, that's only 0.5%. I start on petrol and run on it for about 2 seconds while it switches over....
They are still there but due to the Covid 19 restrictions most of the staff are working from home. They have one guy working in their warehouse sending out items so it might be slower than usual.
Looks about right, 1500 is nothing, if running on LPG, it'll still look like that in 10,000 miles time. But why are you having to top it up after 1500 miles?
Chop the ends off a track rod......