That would do it. Calliper carriers are cheap, about £12 each and are a lot easier than freeing off seized pins. When desperate I've drilled a 5mm hole in the carrier directly behind the pin, tapped an M6 thread in it, filled it full of Plus Gas and let it soak for a while then screwed a bolt in to push the pin out. But at £12, it really isn't worth the effort. More likely the pistons have seized so will need pumping out, cleaning up with very fine wet and dry and new seals fitting. Last time I looked a set of Britpart seals were about £3.50 while for around double that you could get TRW ones. Discs are pretty thick so should be OK and you'd have known if it was an ABS issue as the light on the dash would be flashing. The only other time I've known a brake to stick on badly was after someone had used a hose clamp on the brake hose and the inner had collapsed so wasn't allowing the fluid to flow back.
That's interesting, the 97 4.0SE UK spec car I used to have had electric seats (but not memory, that along came with the HSE), yet the 99 French spec Diesel I look after has manual seats in tan leather. I always assumed it was a base spec that had been fitted with leather seats on the original manual bases. Seems there's a few trim differences between markets.
Arnotts are only considered cool in the US where anything with Made in USA on it is regarded as vastly superior to anything made anywhere else even when it isn't. I've imported about 30, mostly European built, cars from the US over the last 10 years and spent many hours removing 'upgrades' to make thing work properly.
The Gen 111s give extra suspension travel if you really need it (and most people don't) but the Gen11s are best known for falling apart. A lifetime warranty is all very well but not if you have to fall back on it regularly, you want something that just works as it should all the time.
It isn't whether the compressor blows enough air or not but does it generate enough pressure. It should output around 150 psi so if you can put your finger over the output and keep it there, it isn't giving enough.
Gen 11s have a reputation for coming apart and dropping you to the bumpstops at the least convenient moment, and they are a lot more expensive than Dunlops and don't really give you anything extra other than unreliability. The floppy ring is plastic so won't short anything out.
Is that Thursday in Tasmania so Wednesday evening here, or Thursday here?
Dave at East Coast is a fantastic guy to deal with, I've had quite a few bits from him for assorted cars, everything from bits of trim and a sunroof cassette to a complete 4.6 engine. He may be the best part of 100 miles from me but worth the drive. He buys P38's and, depending on the state of them either dismantles them for spares or restores them to near new condition.
The Black/Pink wire connects to the Orange at the compressor, so it was shorting out the thermal switch. Replacement compressor is the way to go, even if you have to swap the new piston seal.
The ring at the back is there to hold the brushes back when you fit the rear cover. You pull it up so it holds the brushes, then as you put the back plate on the commutator the ring is pushed in to release the brushes. The thermal cutout is also on the PCB on the back of the motor. If the motor gets too hot it goes open circuit and as it cools down goes short circuit again. However, after they have switched a few times, they fail and stay open circuit. It is connected between the Black and Orange wires on the motor so easy enough to check with a meter. If you have continuity between the two wires, it is OK, if open circuit that would mean it is either too hot or the switch has failed. In the case of an open circuit, the EAS ECU will not try and power the motor as it thinks it has overheated. They can be replaced but are a real pain as it involves drilling out the rivets that hold the PCB in the back of the motor.
The Aerosus springs appear identical to OE Dunlops from the pictures and, as you are outside the EU so won't have to pay the 20% VAT, OE Dunlops from Island 4x4 will be cheaper. At least you know what you are getting with Dunlop. There used to be some Chinese made Dunlop copies around which only had one O ring rather than two so would always leak. The Aerosus ones may be these but you don't know. With Dunlops you know what you are getting.
You're in the right place, I've got 2 as well, although both mine are V8's on LPG.
It can be replaced but it is inside the back of the compressor motor, between the brushes and is a real pain to change. I've seen one where someone has drilled and tapped the back plate on the motor and bolted it on the outside, seemed to work OK.
Most definitely yes, second hand ones are likely to work. Chinese ones work but give the wrong readings so the fuel trims go all over the place.
By the way, your car is the wrong colour for the grille........
The black wire is a ground, does the other end make it's way to the connection to the Orange wire on the compressor? I suspect it probably does in which case the thermal cut out on the compressor may well have failed. There's a thermal switch in the back of the compressor motor which is normally grounded but goes open circuit if the compressor gets too hot. It should go short circuit again once it cools down and the ECU then allows the compressor to run again. However, sometimes they got open circuit and stay that way so the compressor will never be ordered to run. By grounding the Orange wire the ECU thinks the thermal switch is short circuit so orders the compressor to run. It may be that the switch has failed or the compressor was getting very hot and kept cutting out and someone decided to bypass the thermal switch so it ran no matter how hot it got.
The screenful of faults means that you don't have a proper connection. On the top left of the screen you should have a green box with Good Idle shown in it. If that is red and no Good Idle shown, any faults read will be complete garbage.
No advantage at all as you've a smaller contact area and, as you say, easier to round off nuts. I don't think I've ever seen 12 point impact sockets to be perfectly honest, especially not in big sizes like that.
You're 7 hours ahead of us so it could be a very late night for you George. The last one was at 9:30 pm UK time, so 6:30 in Australia and mid afternoon in the US. With your time difference you'd be looking at very early in the morning or very late at night depending on how you look at it.
By bending the ducting out of the way, it's only thin and bends fairly easily.
Lemforder drag link and track rod end from Island 4x4, Lemforder supply LR (and BMW) so are OE and not expensive. To test the swivel ball joints you need to try to lift the hub up to check for play in them.
You could try Woolies, they will mix the dye for you. Only problem is you need to send them a sample to mix the colour.
https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category/117/leather-renovation