Oddly, they seem to be available in Portugal.......

http://www.oliveiravalentimlda.com/BTR4428-Clip-finisher-lower-Range-Rover

I'm thinking that somehow the ECU has been frigged so it is enabled as soon as the ignition is turned on (ECU from a Morgan perhaps?) but as soon as the key is turn to the starter position a code is sent which is wrong so it is then immobilised. Normally a ground from teh ignition switch goes to the BeCM and, assuming it is happy and the immobiliser isn't triggered, that ground is passed to the fusebox to energise RL16 and fire up the starter. So I suspect the pushbutton is bypassing the BeCM and applying a ground directly to RL16.

I suppose it's possible that the ECU is already enabled so it is only the BeCM that thinks it is immobilised. In which case, entering the EKA should enable it. Have you got the EKA yet?

You'd only need to put RTV around the top of the A pillar if the windscreen has previously been replaced by a cowboy who didn't do it properly. So that was probably advice from .net where nobody seems capable of doing anything properly.

If there is a spurious wire connected to pin 26 (second in on the top row with a black wire) on the middle, red, connector to the ECU, that may be very relevant as that is the mobilise pin that gets a code from the BeCM when the immobiliser is turned off. There was an Australian company that did a unit that sent the code irrespective of the alarm state but I would have thought you would have found another box lurking somewhere.

The connections under the header tank connect some of the underbonnet wiring to the rest of the car, it carries things like the ignition switched supplies, the oil pressure and temp senders back to the BeCM, that sort of thing. Whip the lid off the ECU box and see if there is anything in there other than the ECU. There's 3 big plugs go to the ECU, so if you identify which plug and which colour wire, it should be possible to identify what circuit things are connected to.

Afraid I have no idea what is going on there. Just checked my 96 and the wiring to those two plugs under the header tank look original but the bit coming out of the ECU box isn't. You've got the alarm sounder disconnected too......

That's it, that ain't standard. Normally the wiring in the rubber tube goes straight into the ECU box with nothing coming off at that point.

Standard early GEMS but with the tell tale sign of a bunch of additional wiring going into the ECU loom. See the wiring coming out of the tape by the input to the ECU box, that isn't standard so where does that additional wiring go? If it had LPG, it could be the wiring for that but it hasn't......

You got it, there is a flat on the shaft that the grub screw needs to bear on. If the grub screw is screwed in part way then the crank will only slide onto the shaft with the screw against the flat so then you just tighten it.

The faint glow is very faint, you need to let your eyes get used to the dark. The faint glow tells you that the BeCM is powered and awake, if you do nothing for 2 minutes the BeCM goes to sleep and the light goes out. So you need to do something to cause it to wake in the first place, like open or close the door or turn the ignition on and off again. 2 minutes after waking it, it will go to sleep if it detects nothing and the light goes out.

It's not so much the cable as the laptop you use. The cable is serial comms so ideally you need an old laptop with a serial (9 pin) port but that means very old so you usually need to use a USB to serial adapter which is where the problems start. Some work better than others, if you get one with an FTDI chipset it is likely to be more reliable.

The code is sent to the ECU when you turn the ignition on to position 2 so everything powers up and the Check Engine light comes on. When you turn to position 3 to start it, the BeCM decides if it is immobilised or not and, if not, commands the starter relay to pull in and operate the starter. That bit is easy, to operate the starter all you need so is ground one side of the starter relay. It's the immobilising side of things that are intriguing.

Once the EAS is back together, chances are it won't do anything. It's telling you it has a fault so it will shut down until the fault is cleared. You might be very lucky and find it just starts up and works but doubtful. You will need a cable and the free software to read and clear the fault (or the assistance of someone nearby with a Nanocom or similar).

Getting the starter to spin is the easy bit, but if the alarm LED is still on and the dash is telling you the engine is immobilised, then that means the engine ECU hasn't received the correct code from the BeCM so there shouldn't be any sparks or fuel. The ECU won't power itself up until it sees the code. Easy to see if it is powered, does the Check Engine light come on when the ignition is turned on? That's the usual tell tale if sync between BeCM and ECU has been lost, no Check Engine light. You can get a stand alone GEMS ECU that doesn't need to see the code but you're looking at 500 notes and I can't see anyone going to that kind of expense on an older P38. Marty is the only one that may have a clue what is going on here.

If it is the screws I'm thinking of and the panel I think you mean (the one you need to remove), the screws are behind the rubber door seal.

Normally I would just replace the carrier, as Clive says, they aren't expensive, but I was doing the job on the Saturday of a bank holiday weekend. I wasn't going to put it back together with a seized pin and if I'd ordered a new carrier it wouldn't have arrived until the following Wednesday at the earliest. Being without a P38 fix for 4 days just wasn't an option.....

Indicators flashing when you lock and unlock is normal so something is improving.

You only get Keycode Lockout if the BeCM is in an alarmed state and the battery is reconnected. It goes out after 10 minutes n an early car, 30 minutes on a later one.

Easy way to check if the receiver is working is to sit in the car in the dark, close the door and look at the LED next to the gear lever (the one that shows what gear you are in). It will be glowing very dimly (that's why you need to wait until it is dark). 2 minutes after you close the door, the light should go out completely. Press a button on the fob. If the light comes back on glowing dimly, the receiver is seeing the signal from the fob, if it doesn't come back on, it isn't. The receiver isn't under the steering wheel but under the RH side rear panel. Drop the back seat and you should see a screw holding the front of the shelf panel in, take that out and lift the panel, the receiver is the small box sitting under there. It has two plugs going into it, a 3 way and a single blue wire. Make sure they are both plugged in. When you put the panel back down, make sure the pushbutton to release the rear seat pokes through the hole and doesn't fall down inside.

The message on the dash, engine immobilised, etc measn it shouldn't allow the starter yto turn to the pushbutton has obviously been put there to bypass that. However, if immobilised there should also be no power to the engine ECU so it shouldn't start. God knows what has been done there.....

EAS error will always be accompanied by 35 mph max, so that is nothing to worry about until you get the EAS working as it should. ABS light stays on until you reach 5 mph and the system has checked for valid rotation of all 4 wheels, so if you aren't going anywhere it will stay on. SRS fault means that it has detected a fault but it may have been cleared. Early cars need the fault to be read and cleared even if the fault that was logged has been cleared. Usual problem is if you switched the ignition on with any of the SRS wiring (the stuff in bright yellow sheathing) disconnected.

Yeah, it's only the posh ones that get complicated...... It's only the High line that comes with door amps and I think that comes with the CD changer in the boot too.

I think you are right in how the code is entered and once you put the last number in, it should just burst into life. SE spec with no sub and, presumably no steering wheel controls, will be the low (no mid range speaker in the front doors) or mid line system (with mid range speakers in the doors) so no amps in the doors. If that is the case, then the plugs on the loom to go into the radio are standard 2 x 8 way ISO connectors and you can just plug any aftermarket head unit in. The '97 4.0SE I had was also fitted with the mid line system and a Sony head unit was a direct replacement.

Mine originally had the low line system (as plod didn't ask for a radio at all but it still came with speakers) but I swapped the door panels for ones with mid range speakers to turn it into a mid line.

Wearing the inner pad more than the outer would suggest the calliper pins are seized so instead of the calliper floating and applying the same pressure on both pads, it is only pushing against the inner pad where the piston is. Make sure the pins move in and out freely. I had one that was seized and sheared it off trying to get it to move so the next time I found the same problem, I drilled a 5mm hole in the calliper carrier opposite the pin, tapped it with an M6 thread and screwed a bolt in to push the pin out. Once cleaned and greased I just put a short M6 bolt in to plug the hole.

Put the suspension on high, jack it up a bit more (one jack on the front crossmember just in front of the radiator, the other one under the towbar) and put your blocks in, starting with the highest. Release the jacks, then poke the rocker on the dash for access height. so it drops down and sits on the blocks. Open the door to inhibit it. Go to the Heights tab in the software and click, Get Sensor Heights, make a note of the readings for each corner. Go to the Calibrate tab, click Read All and you'll see two sets of numbers. Top ones are what it is programmed to now and the bottom set of numbers will show the same numbers. Change the bottom set to what you have just noted down and click Write. If you then click on Read All again, you'll see that the top set, the programmed heights, will have changed to what you have just input in the bottom set.

Jack up, take your blocks out, fit the next set (Standard) and do the same thing for each height setting. You can only change one height at a time, you can't amend more than one set of numbers and then Write the whole lot. The software will try to always put the car back to standard height so make sure it is sitting on the blocks and the door is open before reading the existing heights.