If the average is climbing to higher than what it would do on petrol, the gas system is too rich so causing the petrol fuel trims to go negative (leaning it off). It wants to be showing the same as it shows on petrol for the same run. You did say when it ran on gas the economy was pretty dire so that would make sense. Any engine is most efficient at peak torque, hence the reason why you'll get more miles per gallon cruising at 75 mph than at 50 mph.
For oil pressure you could use something like this https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/stainless-steel-18-npt-adapter between engine block and pressure switch and fit a gauge sender in the extra hole. You are aware that you can adjust the reading on the temperature gauge aren't you? It is what would normally be termed a compressed scale gauge so only reads over a limited range. Mine is set to reach the red at 105 degrees. There's trimmer pots on the top of the instrument PCB that allow you to adjust the offset and slope for the speedo and tacho along with the reading for the fuel and temperature gauges.
Which BMW header tank do people use. I read a post from Dave3d on the dark side where he suggested a BMW E34 header tank but when I found that one (here http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E34-Sedan/Europe/M5_3.6-S38/browse/radiator/expansion_tank/) it appears from the picture to be a mirror image of ours.
They are the same as fitted to trucks but cut to shape. It's these https://www.truckware.co.uk/acatalog/Anti-Spray_Mudflaps_-_Manufactured_by_Clearpass.html
I suspect that's what the problem is too but as it's the rear washer replacing the pipework isn't that simple. But no doubt I'll have plenty of time to do it in the next few weeks.
If it has moved at all with the dash disconnected, then you will get an Odo error as it will no longer match the mileage stored in the BeCM. It needs a Nano plugging in to sync the two together again which will change the dash reading as the BeCM reading will be higher. That's one of the problems with swapping bits, you could have a low mileage car and switch a BeCM in from a higher mileage car and it will always use the highest reading.
The only use for the dash display is to give an indication of how well the LPG system is calibrated. As petrol consumption is calculated rather than measured, if the LPG system calibration is out it will cause the petrol ECU to adjust the fuel trims so alter the MPG reading on the dash. If it reads the same when on petrol as when on gas, the calibration is correct.
All I've done to mine today was drive for miles to find a farm shop with meat because the local supermarkets only have the scabby bits that I wouldn't give to the dog......
Looking at the diagram Relay 17 coil has ignition switched live on one side of the coil and is grounded through the pressure switch so shouldn't pull in without the ignition on. When it pulls in it supplies power to the pump from Maxi fuse 3. So it sounds like Relay 17 might be the one at fault. It isn't a standard relay either. Although a standard 4 pin relay will fit the socket it should be a dual contact high power relay so a standard one will burn out pretty quickly. The one you need will be black and the part number is PRC9566.
The dotted line shown in the ETM diagram just signifies that the motor moves the wiper. I've repaired the feedback circuit errors simply by a squirt of switch cleaner inside the pot and working it back and forth before putting the gears back. Any slight dead or dirty spot on the track will cause an error.
Just checked a spare I have here. Had to lift the board out of the housing slightly to get a probe onto the wiper pin but measuring between the wiper (the terminal lurking under the rounded side of the pot) and the terminal on the end of the track nearest the motor, I get between 26 Ohms with the pot fully one way and 10k at the far end of the travel. Don't forget that when in use it doesn't use all of the travel from one end to the other. Make sure you get the arrows on the gears lined up when you put it back together too.
Distribution flap usually feels a bit stiffer than you expect but the blend motors can generate quite a bit of torque. The motor itself drives a worm gear and is then further geared down so can move a lot more than you'd think from such a tiny little motor.
Yep, original gearbox and transfer case, rear prop, rear axle and wheel bearings although the rear diff has been replaced. Front needed new ball joints and it was easier for Marty to replace them on a spare axle he had so we could just swap the whole lot so it was changed but didn't really need it. If I try very hard (flooring the throttle in Sport at 20 mph) I can make the TC chain skip a tooth so that will need doing some time but other than that it's just routine maintenance and replacing anything as and when it needs it. I suspect the maintenance and regular servicing it got for the first 8 years and 200k of it's life while it was a police car has helped.
As long as the instruments are plugged in, it's fine. If the instruments are out and you turn the ignition of, you'll get odometer errors and the SRS light on when you put it back together. Everything else can be safely removed.
Only 7k short of 400k. I want to get it up to that before the MoT in August just to impress the tester.....
Not perfect, got a little bit of rust appearing on both rear wheel arches but that's about it really. Everything works too except for the rear washer which clogs up within a couple of days of pulling it out and flushing the pipe through for the umpteenth time.
The sunroof didn't work on the Ascot when I first got it. When I investigated I found the motor was missing so fitted a motor only to find it still didn't work due to broken bits in the mechanism. After spending the same 3 days fettling and filing the eBay kit of parts so they would fit and slide smoothly only to go with an almighty crack the second time I opened it, I went to Dave East Coast Range Rovers and paid £80 for a complete sunroof cassette and fitted that. It seriously isn't worth messing around with them.
It still does, I've left them on as a sort of testament to it's history. They are known as Spray Stoppers and are like doormats on the inside. The only other thing I've removed is the reflective strips down the A pillars and an awful lot of spurious, unused wiring hidden away above the headlining and behind the dash. This is what it looks like now
and this is what it looked like 20 years ago. No reflective strips down the A pillars so they must have been added at a later date.
No she didn't, she met the requirements and those results are what I would expect to see running and being tested on petrol. HC figure is very good at 10 parts per million with a limit of 200 so you aren't burning any oil and petrol combustion is complete as it is a reading of the unburnt hydrocarbons in the exhaust. CO figure is normal and corresponds with the lambda showing it is running very slightly rich.
However, get it running properly on LPG and you'll see a much lower CO figure. Only downside is when things get really bad you can't commit suicide by running a hose from the exhaust because there's insufficient Carbon Monoxide to kill yourself with......
I would think by now he's got over it, but a guy at work posted a link to an article on a medical website written by a GP who has had it. You need to register to read it so I'll post the text here. It should be comforting to any who has either got it or thinks they might have it. At the end of the day, it's another strain of flu, OK it's a rapidly spreading, pretty nasty strain but is still just flu, and is only of concern to those with underlying medical problems.
As a GP who's overcome coronavirus, here's what I want you to know
16 March 2020
Dr Clare Gerada
The only souvenir I thought I’d brought back from my recent trip to a conference in New York was a fridge magnet of the Statue of Liberty. Barely two days later, I realised I’d brought a lot more.
Tucked somewhere in my body was developing Covid-19, which began to show itself a few days after arriving back in the UK. The symptoms merged in with jet lag - tiredness, headache and feeling ‘out of it’.
The dry cough I put down to the long flight home and the effects of rebreathing cabin air. What I couldn’t dismiss, however, was the temperature – which was now above 102 degrees F. My coronavirus experience had started.
Over the next five days, I lived through this nasty illness, wishing it away but never feeling that it would finish me off. Soon after I started becoming unwell, I contacted 111 and went to a testing pod to have swabs taken. Then, I returned to bed, and that is where I stayed for days, rising only to use the bathroom.
The symptoms are as we have been told. Flu-like, with a temperature, dry cough and sore throat. I also had a vice-like headache, muscular chest pain from coughing, rigours and, when I did get out of bed, dizziness.
Five days into the illness, almost in the same order, the symptoms disappeared, leaving only an odd metallic taste in my mouth, nasal mucosal ulcers and intense fatigue. I didn’t need any heroic medicines or interventions.
Despite now being on the ‘other side’ of youth, I have no underlying health conditions and two paracetamol three times a day and lemonade was all I needed. I had God’s penicillin - chicken soup - which seemed to have a miraculous effect of bringing back my appetite.
I’m glad I’ve had it early, as I’m more than likely immune, and can now help my colleagues
My husband practised social distancing - we communicated via mobile phone and he wore the only protection he had – for his face that is - a Chelsea football scarf.
So, my experience. It was the worst illness I’ve ever had. Saying this, I have little to compare this with as other than childbirth (which isn’t an illness). I’m rarely unwell – have had the flu once, dental pain, and fractures over the years, but nothing more. It was painful, and frightening – the fear not because I thought I would die, but because being unwell is just that, frightening.
I’m glad I’ve had it early, as I’m more than likely immune, and can now help my colleagues.
What advice would I give, going forward?
Firstly, each family needs a plan as to what to do when we get sick. This should include calling each other regularly. Someone who is low risk might be a designated carer, to be with the sick person (even if covered by a mask and more than two metres away). This is better than being alone.
Secondly, remember that most people will be fine, even if infected. Our role as GPs is to help those who need more help to get it. We are good at this.
And finally, as GPs, we are crucial in calming the nervous brows of patients and communities.
I’m now out the other end, and very glad that very soon I’ll be back at work and helping my colleagues with the heavy lifting created by this crisis.
Dr Clare Gerada is the former chair of the RCGP, the co-chair of the NHS Assembly and a GP in Lambeth
Sometimes you can cure it with a CD cleaner disc (if you can still buy them?), sometimes it is more serious. Usual cause of faults in any older electronics is failed electrolytic capacitors (they dry out and the stated capacity drops). If you fancy pulling it out and replacing the caps you may be able to bring it back to life.
Depends on what else uses the 315 MHz frequency in the US and Canada. 433 MHz is a Europe wide allocation, and adopted in numerous other countries as well, that is used for 'momentarily operated short range devices' so there's loads of other things using it. If 315 is the US equivalent then the same sort of things will be using it.
I visited RPi once and would never believe anything they told me ever again. It doesn't tally with what the overhaul manual says either.
I've just lost the dining table...... Dina had yesterday and today booked as holiday but got a message from her boss last night. Pinched the P38 to go to the office earlier today and came back with office chair, monitor, keyboard, etc and has installed them on the dining table. Now normally it only gets used if we have someone here for dinner or at Christmas so things better be back to normal by December.......
The HRC part number is a bit of an oddity. A Google search comes up with a few hits but either from eBay or a supplier in the US and does indeed state that it is for a 4.0 litre Discovery. However, I though the Disco engine and the P38 engines are the same 42D prefix and searching Microcat doesn't show any hits at all.. Then I thought that it might be a cam for an earlier, Classic, engine but that has a distributor driven from a gear on the front and I think you'd have noticed if it was that different. That one uses a fully circular thrust plate next to the middle bearing.
I think the important thing is that the thrust plate should be the same thickness as the groove it sits in on the camshaft. If both have grooves of the same thickness then it still points towards the thrust plate being too thin.