You wouldn't think something as simple as soapy water would be such a useful tool. I've used mine to locate a tyre leaking from the valve, an AC leak on a Toyota and a leak on a domestic AC system. All from a window cleaner bottle that would have been thrown away.

A ban on alcohol sales? That would have caused riots here, with nothing else to do alcohol consumption has rocketed.....

He can still get virtual beer for a virtual pub........

RAVE, the workshop manual can be found here http://rangerovers.pub/static/rave.zip and while you are at it, bookmark http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234 which is the online parts catalogue.

I've got the Vredestein Quadrac 5s on mine which are a combined summer/winter tyre. The inside edge is a softer compound rubber with a snow type tread pattern while the outer edge is a harder summer compound with standard summer tread pattern. That, combined with slightly too much toe out meant my fronts were wearing on the inside edge and down to about 1mm while the rest of the tyre was at around 4mm while the rears were at around 4mm everywhere. So I swapped them front to back to even out the wear. They've been on there for about 45,000 miles so not bad wear rate even though I will need to buy a new set for winter if, assuming we're allowed to go anywhere by then, I take the planned trip to Latvia. Most European countries insist on a minimum of 4mm tread on M&S or three peaks marked tyres in winter (which is where most of the part worn tyres come from).

Rears don't wear as fast as the fronts anyway as they don't have the lateral load from cornering, rears just push you along.

As long as you have a tread depth of over 1.6mm over 75% of the width, then putting them on the back will be fine.

By the way, you'd be welcome to join us for a pint tomorrow evening https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1775-a-night-out-at-the-pub

This https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-VALVE-BLOCK-O-RING-DIAPHRAGM-REPAIR-FIX-KIT/321451232414 is the kit that includes the diaphragm although there is also this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-COMPRESSOR-SEAL-LINER-VALVE-BLOCK-O-RING-DIAPHRAGM-KIT/321451243072 which includes new seals and gaskets for the compressor so you can overhaul the whole system. There's an excellent write up on how to do it here http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/eas-valve-block-renew/.

My ABS pump decided it had reached the end of it's life at about 270k miles so yours still has quite a bit of life left in it.

Using it is the best way of doing it. I bought mine after it had been almost completely neglected so in addition to the blown head gasket and burst rear air spring which I knew about, using it threw up lots of other, not critical, but annoying faults. The same goes for my spare, the Ascot. Took it for the MoT test about a month ago and everything was fine and working. Next time I used it I had the book symbol on the HEVAC so sorted that and now it is showing an SRS fault. They don't like not being used.

Well done and welcome. It's morning here too, I think SA is on the same timezone as UK or at least very close. Sounds and looks like you've got a decent one there. Listing your queries one at a time.

1. Assume you mean every time you press the brake pedal? Yes, accumulator will sort that.
2. You've got it. If only one corner drops, that is the one with the leak, if they all drop then the most likely place for a leak would be the diaphragm in the valve block. Some overhaul kits only come with the O rings and not a new diaphragm or it might be that the PO only replaced the O rings you can get to with the block in one piece rather than replacing the internal ones too. A squirty bottle filled with a mix of water and washing up liquid is you best way of looking for leaks.
3. https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/clip-seat-base-trim-beige-large-britpart-awr2539smk-p-32993.html will get you started.
4. HEVAC fan speed is a wiper on a track with segments on it so a squirt of contact cleaner and working it back and forth should sort that out, or, if it also has dead pixels it might be easier to get a fully refurbed one from Marty (http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=75_80). The head unit, assuming the original Alpine unit, isn't quite so simple as it uses a BCD controller so no contacts to clean. If your steering wheel controls work, use them instead.
5. At some point the steering column has been off and hasn't been put back centralised. There is a notch in the column itself which should be at the midpoint so the same amount of turn either way cancels the indicator. If it is off slightly it gives the problem you have. I don't know if there any markings to show you when it is right (I suspect there may be) but to correct it you would need to disconnect the column at the steering box, turn the wheel slightly so it lines up with the next spline, then take the steering wheel off and move that on the splines to get it correct again. Problem with doing this is if you go too far you will damage the rotary coupler and lose the steering wheel controls, horn and SRS connection.

I'll echo mad-as, make sure you have working key fobs and if you find that the door locks start to lock and unlock themselves when driving, deal with it immediately rather than waiting until it locks you out. Do you have any specialists in the area just in case or it might be worth investing in diagnostics of some sort.

Being sold with no reserve, you might be able to get it for what you originally wanted to pay. I can't see the seller making a profit on that in that state.

How badly worn are the fronts? Fronts are always going to wear faster even if your alignment is spot on, why not just swap front to rear to even them up?

I've got the Allmakes and it took a bit of fiddling to get it hanging level. Initially I had one side against the tie down but by adjusting how far it was pushed into the joint I got it right.

Suits me too

Fix the cause, not fudge your way round the symptom. That requires a diagnostics mindset that can't be taught, you either have it or you don't. I've heard the same story regarding BMW just lifting as much technology as they could and when you compare the two, the X5 and the L322 are so similar they could have come from the same manufacturer. In much the same way as Ford lifted the heated screen.....

Agree totally on the electronics. What they managed to achieve with discrete components and the minimum of logic is amazing considering the state of the technology at the time. Now there's a project for Marty while he's got no work on, build a Raspberry Pi based BeCM.......

When are we having this pint then?

A whole new redesign of the front axles was called for to get rid of those appalling swivel hubs that dated back to being a rip off of the originals from the Ford/Willys Jeep from 1940, hence the completely new designed hubs on the P38 and the Disco 2. Why they chose to move the drive from one side to the other may be a mystery but it was obviously done for good reason. Possibly, as the entire engine and transmission is offset to one side, it was to even up the weight distribution on the LHD versions if driven with just a driver. That's why the RHD versions have so little clearance on the right side as the engine is offset to that side and all the steering and braking mechanism is on that side too. The same drivetrain was used on the Disco 2 so it isn't as if it is unique to the P38, it's just a later derivative. The L322 has the front driveshaft offset to the left while the rear runs down the centre of the car.

The self levelling on the EAS is, I suspect a safety feature, in case one corner deflates for whatever reason, the diagonally opposite corner could unseat the air spring as it extends but with only limited air volume in it. As for the ride, my experience of comparing it with a Disco 2, having driven one 2 or 3 days a week for around 3 years from the day it was delivered from the dealer, the EAS on the P38 is vastly superior. Choice of tyres may make a difference and the ride won't be as good if it isn't calibrated properly but if everything is correct then it just glides over bumps.

The choice of engines would be what they had at the time, even though the V8 was developed quite substantially due to 'project Iceberg' in collaboration with Perkins to attempt to make a diesel version of the Buick derived V8, hence the cross bolted main bearings and much stronger bottom end that first appeared on the 4.2 version of the engine fitted to the Classic LSE. The P38 was designed at a time when LR were in a dire financial position so they had to use what they had. Being bought by BMW in 1994 would have injected cash, and allowed a lot of BMW bits to start to be used, but it would have been too late to re-engineer it to use something different. They had already done the deal to use the BMW engine in the diesel prior to the takeover but I doubt they had the funds available to attempt to buy in a different engine.

Oh yes, the RF. A subject I have dealt with considerably for the last 35 odd years in the course of my work. It isn't only the P38 that suffers problems, the difference is that on other cars it just means you can't lock or unlock your car and, without the BECM being woken on lesser vehicles, it didn't cause the battery drain. However, you can't blame LR for that. Back in 1994, I was asked to investigate why a brand new BMW 7 series couldn't be unlocked and was immobilised when parked in a certain car park. Having done some testing, I wrote a report pointing out that the receiver performance was so bad it would respond to, and be blocked by, just about any nearby radio transmitter. That report went from the local main dealer to BMW UK, who forwarded it to BMW in Germany, who sent it to the manufacturers of the keyfob and receiver. The response was, "when you pay the equivalent of 9p per receiver, you can't expect quality". Having seen the receiver fitted in that early E38, it appears to be the very same unit, almost certainly supplied by the same manufacturer (a very well known, highly respected, European electronics company), fitted to the early P38. So it is a case of don't blame the manufacturer, blame the sub contractor that are supposedly an expert in the subject.

Alternative for the heater core temp sensor is a straightforward NTC thermistor and a tie wrap. Although the Valeo heater core is NLA, I'd happily fit a Nissens.

Where?

Just done it for you. Right click the picture in Imgur and select Copy Link Location, in your post click on the Image icon and paste the link into the little box that pops up, Click OK and that's it.

I've forwarded 2 Direnza radiators to owners in the US, cost of carriage added another £105 to the price so would assume about the same to Oz. I spoke to Direnza to see if there was any way we could avoid them having to pay the 20% VAT (tax) on the purchase price as that only needs to be paid on a sale within the EU so should be sold VAT free if going out of the EU. As they aren't geared up for export sales and the radiators were being dispatched to me in the UK there was no way of doing it.

I raced motocross in the early 1980's, started with a CZ250, then an EMC (oddball built by Mike Eatough with a Sachs 250 motor, Marzocchi forks, Ohlins rear end) and finally a Montessa VB414 Cappra. Scared myself stupid the first time I raced the Cappra, got to the first corner and found nobody in front of me, assumed there'd been a false start so slowed down and everyone else came storming past me!

Looks like it needs calibrating then. I thought you'd already done that but it may have not saved the new settings (you have to do one height at a time) or it never happened as you can't achieve a stable good idle.