Easiest way to do it if you decide you need to keep an alarm sounder is to just connect some sort of sounder between the Purple/Yellow and Black wires in the 4 way connector to the sounder. The other two wires are to keep the internal battery charged. A cheapo piezo sound bomb (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-Piezo-siren-sounder-sound-bomb-for-security-alarms-110-decibels/254457190394) should wake the neighbours.....

Compression will only go as far as the bumpstops just as it would with standard length shocks. It's extension that will cause a problem as the maximum extended length of the shocks is what limits the amount of axle movement. With longer than standard shocks it would be possible for the air springs to over-extend and pop off the end caps, stretch the brake hoses and damage the height sensors by allowing more movement than anything was designed for.

Sounds like you have the battery backed alarm sounder and the internal battery is dying.......

Here's a little lockdown project more suited to the UK than solar https://greenterrafirma.com/making-pvc-wind-turbine-blades.html

About 6 years ago my car developed a vibration from the rear. I had recently replaced the, very worn original, rear diff so it couldn't be that and after changing propshaft UJs, rear discs, pulling half shafts to check wheel bearings, getting rear wheels balanced and nothing seemed to make any difference although no matter what I did it seemed to reduce slightly with each job. A couple of people suggested the transfer case and although I couldn't see it myself, decided to change it anyway. Bought a secondhand one and set about fitting that. After spending an entire weekend under the car and having roped in my son in law to assist with getting the replacement in, took it out and tried it. No difference, still had this vibration which, by then, was only minor at around 60 mph with nothing below that and stopping once I hit 65. Decided I could live with it and gave up. Shortly afterwards I had to take evasive action which involved a rapid change of lanes and flooring the throttle resulting in the well known machine gun sound effect from the transfer case Morse chain. Decided that as I knew the original transfer case was in better nick than this one obviously was, and changing it hadn't made any difference to the vibration, I'd swap them back and put the original in again.

This time, before taking it off, I made a bracket that I could bolt to the bottom of the transfer case to hold it at the correct angle when getting it back in. This made refitting it a one man job but it still took me a full day to swap them over again. So now I could floor the throttle without the chain skipping but still had the vibration between 60 and 65mph. Decided I would have to live with it as by now, it was noticeable but not too objectionable.

Then I had a towing job to do, not my usual 2,000 mile round trip but a fairly local one but when I stopped to fill up with gas, noticed that the entire rear tailgate and the trailer A frame were covered in spots of liquid. Had a look underneath and there was oil, or in actual fact, ATF, from the front of the transfer case rearwards. Deciding this needed looking at fairly urgently I had another look in RAVE. It was only then when I noticed that in block capitals it tells you that whenever the transfer case it removed, you MUST replace the gearbox output shaft seal. Guess who hadn't seen that bit before......

So, that resulted in a further day spent underneath the car removing a perfectly good transfer case so I could replace a seal that I should have replaced the first (and second) time it had been off. I did eventually find the source of the vibration though. The one thing I hadn't suspected, the rear diff that I had replaced not long before it had first started. The nose bearing had seized so the whole thing was turning in the housing. This time, rather than a secondhand one from a breaker, it got a reconditioned one from Ashcrofts, and the vibration immediately disappeared.

It's a Range Rover, not a bloody sports car. 'Firming it up' will just make it more uncomfortable. If you got the adjustable ones, set them at their softest.

LRO says 118mph (https://www.lro.com/reviews/land-rover-range-rover-p38-4x4-review). I've seen 169kph on the sat nav and 105 mph on the speedo (so my ex-plod calibrated speedo is still accurate) on a downhill through Germany. Bottled it as soon as I saw how quickly I was going even though I wasn't doing as much as some of the cars overtaking me.

As I said, it's had 2000 model lights fitted with the clear indicators (including side repeaters), masked headlights and the later style fog lights. AFAIK there wasn't a Vogue in '96, that didn't appear until much later, so the painted lower section may well have been the difference between an Ascot and a standard HSE. It's missing the RH front mudflap and from the brackets underneath at some stage in it's life it's had sidesteps too (brackets are still there on one side but not the other). It's also got the HK High Line audio system but when I got it the head unit was dead so I sent it to Clarion and it came back fully working, with the code removed and with a line in added. I've got the service history for it from new until 2010 when it had done 133,000 miles and it is now at 175,000. It was first registered 02/02/96 as N111ASG, in 2000 it became H1YLD but a year later it was B16WYT before being given it's current age related plate of N352MPV in 2004, although for a short time in 2010 it was K5GGY before reverting back to the standard plate. As far as I can tell, other than the light units (and the drivers seat base which I replaced), it is original. LPG conversion was done in 2002 at 85,000 miles by Hammond Land Rover but most components were replaced not long before I got it as it wasn't working. Seems I was the first person to notice the centre of the mixer was missing so it never was going to work......

All I've done on both is sprayed the bumpers, grille and strip below the headlights with bumper black paint rather than the faded grey that is standard (did the side rubbing strips and sill covers on the ex-plod too). I wish I had the patience of some of you guys to get stuck in with polish and potions but I'm afraid I draw the line at washing them.

In another effort to stop this turning into the Show us Strangerovers Range Rover, here's mine. The ex-plod has been on here plenty of times, although usually a bit dirtier than it is at the moment (getting desperate when cleaning the car is a viable way of spending a Bank Holiday) but making it's pub début is the Ascot. Now numerous people have told me that a P38 Ascot Edition didn't exist and it is probably a standard 4.6 HSE that has had an Ascot badge from a Classic stuck to it, but I have been reliably informed that it is one that was missed out of the James Taylor book and there really was a P38 Ascot Limited Edition and as such is very rare. It's obviously not how it came from the factory having had the post 2000 light units fitted which it wouldn't have had when produced in '96. Colour is Altai Silver metallic with pale blue leather interior and fitted with every option that I'm aware it would have had, sunroof, headlamp wash/wipe, front fogs, electric memory heated seats, cruise control and sitting on 18" Triple Sport wheels.

The Ascot. Why bother removing the old steel brake pipes when you fit copper nickel ones?

Nowt to worry about, it'll melt as soon as you start the engine......

I've always jammed a bit of wood in through the hole at the bottom of the bellhousing but it's a bit late now. RAVE says to stand the gearbox on end and rotate it as it drops straight down and meshes with the splines. But, if you don't fancy dropping the gearbox, I'd say just take the weight and rotate it a bit and see if you feel it slot in.

Depends what you can get in your area. Over here it's mostly Comma or Granville but you can buy it as either a concentrate that you dilute or ready mixed that you just pour in. I know that in Europe you can't buy the concentrate only the ready diluted. Check that it any you find has approval numbers from various car manufacturers and choose a make that you've heard of.

One downside with being a mod that I have noticed so far is that I still see deleted threads. Someone posted 19 threads in Chinese in the .net P38 forum. I reported the first couple but couldn't be bothered to report them all and, after only 23 hours, they all disappeared. After being upgraded to mod status they have re-appeared for me but with a line through the titles and a note to say they were deleted by RRTH. So I get to see stuff even after it has been deleted (although I do seem to have the option to undelete it too).

I suspect they would recommend what was available at the time. It's probably also why the recommendation for anti-freeze on a GEMS is Ethylene Glycol but for a Thor is OAT, OAT wasn't around when the GEMS came out. Same goes for the alternator, the alternator on an early (95-96) P38 has the voltage regulator set at 13.8V but later ones are at 14.3V. Older batteries didn't like being charged at too high a voltage whereas the later batteries with a higher Calcium content, can take it

It's no better, it's still mostly inhabited by new members that don't have a clue and/or ask stupid questions. I go on there to poach a few UK based newbies over to here and help the odd one that asks a sensible question and are unlikely to get a sensible answer.

A few weeks ago there were a number of posts started in the wrong forum, so I reported them but knowing that not a lot seemed to be being done about them, replied telling the poster they'd posted in the wrong forum. That got me a PM from RRTH telling me that rather than replying I should report them. I pointed out that I was reporting them but it seemed like naff all was being done anyway and that posts from new members used to be held to make sure they weren't spam or posted in the wrong place. His reply was:

The new owners do not believe in holding new member's posts for moderation. I have pointing out how many posts are in the wrong place and they just don't grasp how serious the issue is.
We used to hold the first three posts. Then no posts were being held. Then even "Lifetime" and "founders" were having their posts held up.
Say. I have an idea. Would you be willing to be a moderator? As active as you are and your vast experience, It'd be great for you to be able to move all the erroneous posts you see.
Myself and at least one of the other moderators are being bumped to double security log-ins with extended account accesses.

I replied to him with this:

It also made me think again about your very kind, and very unexpected, suggestion of becoming a moderator. As mentioned, I'm already a mod on two forums and ordinarily would agree immediately. However, as someone that was banned for life by the 'owners' under my more commonly used username (Gilbertd), have been one of the most vocal in my criticism of the castration, sorry upgrading, of this site and was jointly responsible for setting up an alternative, UK based, forum, it almost feels like I'd be working for the enemy.

So he requested that I was upgraded anyway......

You've noticed then. When RRTH sent me a PM suggesting that I should become a mod (after I'd complained that it took over a day for spam to be deleted) I replied that it might not be appropriate that someone that had previously been banned for life and had been one of the most vocal in my criticism of the new site should be a mod. He replied saying he had put a request in for me to be upgraded. It's taken them 2 weeks to do it, moderation is the most confusing process I've ever seen but I can now edit and delete posts. Time for the fun to start......

It's thinner when cold, equivalent to an SAE 10 grade oil but stays thicker when hot (equivalent to an SAE 60 grade). At colder temperatures a 10W-60 will be the same viscosity as a 10W-30 but will stay thicker when it warms up. LR recommend 10W-60 for ambient temperatures between -20 and +55 degrees C so easily good enough for what we get in Europe. Ray a V8 Dev told me that the 10W-40 I had been using was too thin for an old technology engine designed in the days when multigrade oil was 20W-50, and suggested 10W-50 or 10W-60 so I went for the thicker one as I tend to drive for hours at a time in high temperatures.

I've been contacted by an owner in Australia who intends creating a website with all of the old stuff that is no longer on RR.net and wanted to know if I would be interested in updating it. So it will be available again in a while and probably quicker than originally planned due to lockdowns in most countries.

I only ever buy it when it's on one of their deals although my local factors (currently shut) does it at £49.99 as their everyday price. I change the oil, filter and spark plugs every 10k miles but running on LPG means the oil stays clean anyway. ECP also have 10W-60 Mobil 1 at the moment at around the same price but for 5 litres rather than 4 but as I've run on the Castrol stuff since the engine went back together I'm not inclined to change it now.