Welcome (at last). My stable currently consists of two P38s, a 1996 4.6 HSE Ascot and the everyday car, the ex-GMP Motorway Patrol car, a 4.0 litre auto in a very weird spec (got the useful options, front fogs, headlamp wash/wipe, climate control but the cloth interior from a base spec (which wouldn't have had AC), no cruise control) both on LPG and a 1990 Maserati BiTurbo Spider E.(2.8 litre, twin turbo V6), while the missus runs a Merc SLK280 (3 litre V6). I went to my local factors one day and asked for a set of NGK BPR6ES plugs, was being served by one of the new guys who didn't know me and he came back with 4 so I told him I needed to change both banks, surely anything with less than 6 cylinders is just a starter motor for a real engine?

As for .net, it seems to be getting worse by the week. Full of people that expect to be able to buy a 20+ year old car and be able to take it to a mechanic when it needs fixing. If you can't fix it yourself, you've bought the wrong car.

I may be a mod on both sites but here it's just deleting the odd spammer than manages to get through the security, there I'm dealing with about 5 spammers a day and editing posts and warning at least one poster a day.

As I've got one in bits here at the moment, just had a look. You're absolutely right, why does it have the leaf under the reed?

I always assumed that the short leaf was under the reed to raise it up and keep it parallel with the body as the O ring that it bears on stands slightly proud of the body. Without the leaf under it the reed will be held at an angle by the edge of the O ring closest to it.

Either, but it only sees the doors being unlocked with the key by seeing the signals from the microswitches in the latch. So if either the Key switch or CDL switch is dead the BeCM doesn't see the correct signals so doesn't unlock the rear doors. If unlocked with the fob, the correct signal is seen by the BeCM directly from the central locking receiver.

Did you try grounding the two wires as I mentioned earlier in post #2?

Angle grinder and file. May not be as elegant and the finish may not be as good as machining it, but it works

Grizzly wrote:

Can anyone give me a rough distance from wheel centre to wheel arch just so I can manually drop them.

Around 47cm from centre of wheel to wheelarch for standard height, around 4cm lower for motorway height.

Yup, it unscrews and the new one screws on. There's a hex at the base but it's too thin for most open ended spanners so an oil filter strap wrench around the body is the usual method of getting it off. Just make sure you pump the brake pedal, RAVE says at least 30 times, to get rid of any pressure or you could end up with a DOT 4 shampoo.

I had a National Express coach move into my lane as I was coming up behind at around 70 mph. Stomped on the pedal and locked up all 4 wheels so they must work pretty well.

Mine are totally standard with Delphi pads. Never had any trouble stopping it even with a very heavy, unbraked, trailer on the back. Main thing is to make sure the accumulator is good.

Don't be silly, can't you see he's building it in his kitchen?

In the past I've had exhausts custom made and a pattern made so they can be duplicated. It's not easy and even with computer controlled bending machines there can easily be slight variations. But, why are they all so complex? I mentioned to someone once that I could never understand why there were so many variations in brake pads. I mean, car manufacturers don't make brake callipers, the likes of TRW, Girling, Brembo, etc make them so why are they different on every car? If they made tiny callipers, small callipers, medium callipers and bloody great big callipers, then there would be one to suit every model of car and only 4 different sets of brake pads. He commented that you could say the same for exhausts if they were all made flexible, then only the pipe diameter and length would be relevant.

In one of the reviews it also says it works with any model after 2005 by which time it was JLR. The P38 is BMW/LR really.

There's only two connections, the thin sense wire and the big fat red one. Connect from the big fat red one directly to the battery but leave the original one in place.

If you have a GEMS, then it's a good idea, Thor has it anyway. As my car originally had an axillary battery in the boot there was already an extra cable coming off the battery terminal going to a split charge relay, I just moved that from the relay to the alternator. I have had a problem in the past with the connection at the starter working itself loose so I had nothing from the alternator getting to the battery so it's definitely worth doing.

Don't know for definite but I wouldn't have thought so. The sunroof on a Classic is the same size as the P38 but has a different curve so is high in the middle.

Yellow Polys!!! It must handle like a blancmange......

Early cars have the rear brake pipes running along the top of the axle, easy enough to make up new ones in Copper/Nickel. Check the ones that run from front to back too. They have inline connectors below the brake modulator on the bulkhead, then run down the car next to the chassis rail before going up and over the fuel tank and appearing at the hoses that go to the centre of the axle. They are not easy to see but they rot out too.

Yes, take the V5 into a main dealer and ask them for the printout. That will give you the EKA, radio code, lockset bar code, manufacture date, spec, etc.

I got one cut at my local Timsons so I can use that if I ever lose my one and only fob. As I'm far more likely to lose it while I'm hundreds of miles from home, the blade is attached to the underside of the car in a place where I can find it but nobody else will (if they even thought to look for it). I know I'd need to enter the EKA to start the car (I assume you've got the EKA for yours?) and nobody would be able to guess that.

Yeah, probably not a good idea to plug it in while the system is powered up.....

Poorly key fob isn't a good idea as the system was designed assuming everyone would always use the fob to lock and unlock so the mechanical linkage isn't designed to be used all the time. If you've got more than one key, or can get a blade cut (it uses a BMW blank), this guy https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Repair-refurbishment-fix-for-Range-Rover-P38-remote-flip-key-fob-new-case/402234621797 will refurb your existing one.

If the keyswitch in the drivers latch has died then all turning the key will do is unlock the drivers door. The CDL switch must be OK as that supplies a ground to the tailgate latch when the drivers door is unlocked. If you can't open the rear doors by pulling up the button then they are most likely superlocked so need to be unlocked electrically. As the drivers door panel is already off, half the job is already done. With a decent battery connected, unpliug the larger of the two plugs that connects to the driver door latch. On the plug that connects to the latch, find the Green/Red and Blue/Red wires. Poke a bit on wire into the plug to connect to these two (paperclip works well), connect a random length of wire to your paperclip and ground the other end. This simulates the signal for the key being turned in the lock and should operate the central locking to pop all doors open. They will lock again when you take the ground off unless you leave the Green/Red wire grounded.