What would go in Whats New? Because it wouldn't be new in a couple of weeks? Maybe a Body and Interior section but not much more. If it's split down too much then most posts will be in the wrong place.....
Yes, it's a job for either engine out or gearbox off so if the box is coming off anyway, then that's the ideal time to do it.
What's your problem? Everywhere is showing it as in stock, you can even have a genuine LR one for under £40? https://www.lrdirect.com/PQR101150-Pulley-Aux.-Drive/
These https://www.workshopessentialsonline.com/product/cv-joint-boot-clips-clamps-x2-stainless-steel-universal-set-driveshaft-gator-8mm/ are the sort of clips that would have originally been on the CV joint gaiters.
One thing I noticed is that the ABS sensor wire looks very close to the air spring. Has it been moved or has someone routed it wrong?
Not on the list but I always take the radiator out too. With that out and the fan and viscous off, you've got acres of room at the front (and less chance of damaging the radiator). In case you may want to use the gearbox, jam a bit of wood into the hole in the bottom of the bellhousing to stop the torque converter falling out of the gearbox.
No, it's fixed at both ends, it doesn't spin at all, the whole thing turns. All it does is flex when the steering is turned.
A tie wrap on the CV joint gaiter suggests someone did do some maintenance in the past. Original gaiters would have had one of these thin steel clamp thingies but replacement gaiters come with tie wraps, just replace it with another and pull it up a bit tighter.
What amazes me is the amount of rust, normally everything is all black and oily from the Land Rover built in chassis lubrication system (aka front oil seal, rocker cover gaskets and anywhere else the engine can leak from). Those steering ball joints should never have passed an MoT in that state, they are well knackered......
Looks like the end of a radius arm to me.....
Huh? There wasn't a roll pin in either of the two I took apart. I bought a set of seats matching mine so I could do a mix and match with the best bits (drivers seat base had suffered a bit with a big fat copper sat in it for 8 years) and swapped the armrest over. That was just a case of undoing the bolt and off it came.
Good point, maybe we need an Interior and Trim section......
Gordon has been threatening to do an upgrade so that would be a good time.
Pull the plastic hinge cover off, it's just pushed in on a couple of pegs, and you'll see the bolt underneath that holds it on.
It didn't. The guy that owned it had only had it for 3 days when a bodged throttle body heater pipe burst and it lost most of the coolant and reduced the engine to scrap. It had been filled with plain water just to see if it would run again but with no compression at all on 6 cylinders and about 60 psi on the remaining two, we figured pulling it out and putting a replacement in was the best option. So a completely shot 4.0 litre came out and a very nice low mileage 4.6 went in. Took a weekend to do it but the results were definitely worth it.
Blanco wrote:
This is typical of what we get locally
A grand for something that can't even be driven? I sold my 4.0SE that was fully running and driving but with a cracked windscreen for £380. Would there be any mileage in importing them from UK? That might explain why when I advertised an old Yamaha 600 Diversion for sale it was bought by a guy from ROI who came over to collect a van load of bikes. Assume they go for similar silly money?
I think you've got a bargain there and it looks like it's been looked after too. Not your usual neglected/butchered older P38. What do you intend doing with it?
Current for the tailgate latch goes via the CDL switch in the drivers door. Maybe the CDL switch is starting to fail so the current draw causes it to go high resistance meaning the BeCM sees it as going open circuit enough to trigger the central locking? If you've got a new latch already, fit it.
I agree, I've been there. I want a double height garage so I can get a lift in there too.
For some unknown reason RAVE says to remove the engine leaving the gearbox in place on a GEMS but to remove the whole lot as one lump on a Thor. As Harv says, if doing it in one lump you need the car high in the air as it's a long unit so engine alone is much easier. I found the boom on my 2 ton engine crane wasn't long enough unless I pulled it all the way out and even then it was hard up against the front number plate. With the boom all the way out obviously the safe working load was reduced but still OK and there's a reachet strap stopping it from being able to pull out any further. See pic and on this car the job wasn't made any easier with the bullbar in the way (and the fact we were working under a tent because it kept raining).

Can't be bad, looks far too good to use for spares. What year is it? I can see it's a pre-97 from the air filter housing and the purge valve pipe going into the upper inlet manifold rather that the throttle body. Must be an Oxford Blue thing though as the lacquer on the bonnet had peeled on the 4.0SE I had in the same colour and we don't get the sun you get where you are.