Going over to France next weekend to investigate a couple of problems with a 99 DSE. Main one is horrendous battery drain, like it can take a fully charged Hankook MF31-1000 down to completely flat overnight. Once the battery is charged it works fine. The only thing I can think that would cause battery drain that serious (without the car bursting into flames) is a short circuit diode in the alternator. As they are 3 phase it will still charge but will drain very rapidly when not charging. Now getting hold of a replacement alternator in France isn't going to be that easy and will probably cost twice what one will cost over here. Buying one here to take over and then finding it isn't the alternator, seems a waste of money too. If anyone has a spare I can borrow for the weekend if it proves that the one on the car is faulty I'll swap them over, bring the old one back and get it reconditioned to return to whoever can lend me one.
More than a contributing factor, more likely the cause. Loss of lights and no gear indicator on the dash, along with Gearbox Fault means it is in limp mode so will only use one gear anyway.
Depends where you want to fit them. If I was going to fit some, I'd put them in the lower section, below the actual bumper part. They fit into a 21mm hole but the same company does some smaller (18mm I think) ones too.
That's the old one, you need to use http://new.lrcat.com/
Agree with Brian, Microcat won't run on anything later than XP, 32 bit, won't run on Win 7 or any 64 bit version. I just run it on an old laptop running XP.
Main thing with a P38 is that you can wash it, polish it and use it to go anywhere and it doesn't look out of place, even our Queen uses one! But you can still take it out and get it muddy, drag big trailers around the place, use it to uproot trees, climb mountains and, unless you damage the bodywork, all you need to do is give it another wash. Contrary to what many American owners seem to think, you don't need to fit it with big wheels and tyres, winches and lift the suspension, it's perfectly capable of going places where the driver chickens out long before the car has reached the limit.
Why you've chosen a P38 is pretty obvious to me if not to others. I needed something I could use as an everyday car that was also capable of towing a 3.5 tonne trailer long distances. Having had a Classic and watched it rust away around me every time it rained, that was out. I'd driven a Defender and wouldn't fancy driving one of them 100 miles let alone, 1500. I'd used a works Disco 1 (200TDi) and considered it almost as agricultural as the Defender and a works Disco 2 (TD5) and while it wasn't bad, I just don't like diesels. An L322 was, at the time, too expensive and I've since learned that they have so many interconnected parts that a failure of something that you can do without will stop the engine because it can. So a P38 on LPG was the only thing left and that was 10 years and almost 200,000 miles ago. Still use it every day, still tows big trailers around Europe and I honestly can't see myself replacing it. Well, not entirely, just odd bits at a time as they need it.
Agree totally on the benefits of a forum over the likes of Faceache. With a forum you can search and find threads from long ago that deal with a particular problem (well, you can on this one anyway) but with fb, once it's fallen off the bottom of the page it's gone. I know two owners that swear by the wisdom of 'experts' on fb, one overfilled his engine with oil by 2 litres because the expert told him it needed 7 litres while I'm finishing off one tomorrow where the owner has spent a fortune replacing parts that didn't need replacing (ignition coils, engine ECU, crank position sensor, MAF sensor, spark plugs, leads and probably a few more bits that I've forgotten) when the problem was down to a broken wire that meant the main ignition relay wasn't operating so none of the ECUs, except for the BeCM, were receiving any power. Power up the BeCM and nothing else and all the dash lights come on except for the Check Engine light. No Check Engine light so, on the advice of the expert, he bought a Sync Mate only to find that wouldn't work but it wouldn't because the engine ECU wasn't powered up. He's owned the car for 6 months and driven it 18 miles in that time. Once I'd worked out the problem (big clue was turning on the ignition and the ABS pump didn't start up) and ran a temporary feed from BeCM to fusebox and it fired up immediately.
I've bought a couple of these for different cars https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/142316341015? they are dead easy to fit and work perfectly. Although there doesn't appear to be a decent match for Epson Green.
Finally had an email from ECP. They are blaming Crosland for sending out the wrong ones and have offered to swap the ones I have for 4 x 507670037 which is a Bosch pollen filter for the P38, at £22.99 each normally, so 4 of them for £8.55 seems like a pretty good deal to me.......
Sounds like you need to fix your water leak. Admittedly I know it's been pretty wet, to the point where I had an inch of water in the passenger footwell of my works 15 plate Renault Kangoo van, but cars shouldn't leak. Then either get a new cable or one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-OBD2-16-Pin-Male-Wire-Sockets-Connector-Plug-OBDII-Car-Adapter-J1962-OEM/311895498803. Might be worth replacing the socket too as that will be pretty well corroded.
No, separate radiator, engine oil cooler and gearbox cooler on a P38, although I believe the diesel may have a combined radiator/cooler for the engine oil, I know the Classic did.
Although checking it with the engine running as you're supposed to could get rather messy if it's blowing fluid out the dipstick tube......
Blocked breather? The gearbox breather comes out against the bulkhead behind the cruise control thingy, next the the EVAPS canister. I overfilled my gearbox once (stupidly assuming the difference between min and max on the dipstick was a litre) and it started blowing the excess out the breather.
Gearbox ECU uses the TPS signal to decided when to change gear so an iffy TPS signal will affect gear changes.
Legal minimum is 3rd party insurance that covers damage to someone else's car (or house or whatever you drive into) and injuries to them. The available options are 3rd party only, 3rd party fire & theft (so it's also covered if it catches fire or is stolen) and fully comprehensive which covers everything including damage to your own car because you drove it into something, hire car while you can't use it, etc. It used to be a case that 3rd party only was far cheaper than fully comp but they found that the people that bought 3rd party only had a cheap car that they didn't care about and were more likely to crash it so these days there isn't actually that much difference in price between the different levels of cover. They are all bloody expensive, especially for young drivers (over £2,000 a year for a 17 year old in a car worth less than half that is normal).
So it's had a new set of LPG injectors and still runs like a bag of shite? That makes it even better, a Profess install that was never set up properly and has since had the injectors replaced so it won't be calibrated for them. Get it to Simon!
That's one major difference, the plates belong to the car. It is registered when new, allocated a number and that remains with it for life. A buggy or anything else that is never used on the road doesn't need anything, no registration, no VED, no MoT, no insurance. If we were to do a long term restoration the car would need to be SORN while it is off the road. Once the registration is done, you take it for the MoT test, insure it, register online to pay the road tax (by direct debit from your bank account) and start using it. Registering it for road tax automatically cancels the SORN and declaring SORN automatically cancels any direct debit. It's all enforced using ANPR (Automatic Number Plate Recognition) with cameras placed at road junctions and the theory is that if you have no VED or the car is SORN but being used, you get a demand for money in the post although my daughter drove around for 4 months in a car that was SORN and never heard anything (her previous car was written off so she bought a replacement, swapped the insurance from the old one to the new one but forgot the VED so was paying for a car that was in a scrapyard and not for the one she was driving). A lot of police cars are also fitted with ANPR cameras so will flag it up if they pass a car that isn't legit.
I was going on the regulations for an Individual Vehicle Approval test for a vehicle imported to the UK that doesn't meet normal UK type approval.
The IVA manual says:
- Any towing device fitted must be of the correct type and be fitted with a 50mm diameter tow ball
2 The coupling frame must bear an ‘e’ or ‘E’ mark to ensure the construction of the device meets the appropriate approval criteria.
3 The coupling device(s) must be securely mounted to the vehicle
4 The coupling ball and / or towing bracket must be installed to the correct height
5 Towing attachments that do not incorporate a 50mm ball are not permitted e.g. Military style hook type fittings and pin types.
Minimum Height 375 mm
Maximum Height 500 mm
Coupling height requirements measured (vehicle unladen) to the top of the ball
Note 2: Modular coupling receivers, typically found on vehicles produced in North America are integrated into the construction of the vehicle during manufacture and are therefore outside of the scope of this Section.
The advice given to me when I enquired about taking a Range Rover Sport that had been imported from the US and was fitted with a US style towbar was that I could either remove it completely or weld a plate over it so it couldn't be used. I didn't think any more about it at the time and welded it up so it couldn't be used. Although reading those rules now as it was a factory approved towbar, but for the US market, had it been fitted with a 50mm ball I would have thought it would have been fine
If it isn't SORN then it must be insured too. There's 3 things we must have in the UK, a valid MoT certificate which is issued assuming you car passes the annual safety test, the VED (or road tax) and insurance at a minimum to cover damage to third parties. No insurance is the most serious and a car being used on the road with no insurance will be seized by the police and held until you, or someone else, produce valid insurance for it. If no insurance is produced within a set time, the car goes to the crusher. Driving with no insurance results in 6 penalty points on your licence (12 points within 3 years is a driving ban), a fine and vastly increased insurance premiums.
I doubt it, the channel is the best part of an inch wide.
Yes but that's a ToyMotor, not a Land Rover.......