Up and running but with nobody other than me there....

Not regularly but it doesn't completely depressurise the springs, it just lets enough air out for the height sensors to say it is down to just touching the bumpstops. Only time I've used it is to lock the car in access for some of the very low height clearance multi storey car parks in France.

As far as battery removal is concerned, it will come back in teh state it was in when it was disconnected. So as long as it was unlocked and un-immobilised when you took it off, it will still be the same when you put it back. You may need to sync the fob but even that may have been saved.

My car is at 397,200 miles and only one of the wheel bearings has been replaced, the other 3 are original. Wait until/if they start to rumble.

Gordon isn't about but he's given me permission to become the host. Link is the same as last time https://jitsi.gjcp.net/rrpubjune and if it asks for a password, it will be rrpubjune again. I know it's July now but I'm afraid if I try to change anything I'll break it......

Will be up and running from 21:30 UK time, so that's 06:30 in Oz, sometime this afternoon in the US and late last night or very early tomorrow morning for George......

Sounds like the TPS isn't returning to the default closed throttle position meaning either a failing TPS or you got too enthusiastic when you adjusted the throttle cable. The Engine ECU will have a memorised voltage for the TPS at a closed throttle so if it is seeing a higher voltage it assumes you have opened the throttle slightly so opens the IACV to raise the revs. Apparently the throttle cable adjustment is pretty critical on a Thor and needs to be done by the book.

Maybe because yours is NAS spec but what's the pipe stuck in the red bit next to the PCV? On a UK car that is normally blanked off or is that part of the mod?

It's the colour that they called Tan originally and then called it Walnut on later cars but it looks much the same. It was the standard interior colour for Epson Green exterior except for the higher spec cars (SE and HSE) that got Light Stone Beige instead. No idea why but I have heard Tan referred to as dog poo brown so maybe that was it?

No you haven't, it'll be 21:30 tonight UK time if Gordon sets it up (or do we use the same link and login as ;last time?).

That would do it. Calliper carriers are cheap, about £12 each and are a lot easier than freeing off seized pins. When desperate I've drilled a 5mm hole in the carrier directly behind the pin, tapped an M6 thread in it, filled it full of Plus Gas and let it soak for a while then screwed a bolt in to push the pin out. But at £12, it really isn't worth the effort. More likely the pistons have seized so will need pumping out, cleaning up with very fine wet and dry and new seals fitting. Last time I looked a set of Britpart seals were about £3.50 while for around double that you could get TRW ones. Discs are pretty thick so should be OK and you'd have known if it was an ABS issue as the light on the dash would be flashing. The only other time I've known a brake to stick on badly was after someone had used a hose clamp on the brake hose and the inner had collapsed so wasn't allowing the fluid to flow back.

That's interesting, the 97 4.0SE UK spec car I used to have had electric seats (but not memory, that along came with the HSE), yet the 99 French spec Diesel I look after has manual seats in tan leather. I always assumed it was a base spec that had been fitted with leather seats on the original manual bases. Seems there's a few trim differences between markets.

Arnotts are only considered cool in the US where anything with Made in USA on it is regarded as vastly superior to anything made anywhere else even when it isn't. I've imported about 30, mostly European built, cars from the US over the last 10 years and spent many hours removing 'upgrades' to make thing work properly.

The Gen 111s give extra suspension travel if you really need it (and most people don't) but the Gen11s are best known for falling apart. A lifetime warranty is all very well but not if you have to fall back on it regularly, you want something that just works as it should all the time.

It isn't whether the compressor blows enough air or not but does it generate enough pressure. It should output around 150 psi so if you can put your finger over the output and keep it there, it isn't giving enough.

Gen 11s have a reputation for coming apart and dropping you to the bumpstops at the least convenient moment, and they are a lot more expensive than Dunlops and don't really give you anything extra other than unreliability. The floppy ring is plastic so won't short anything out.

Is that Thursday in Tasmania so Wednesday evening here, or Thursday here?

Dave at East Coast is a fantastic guy to deal with, I've had quite a few bits from him for assorted cars, everything from bits of trim and a sunroof cassette to a complete 4.6 engine. He may be the best part of 100 miles from me but worth the drive. He buys P38's and, depending on the state of them either dismantles them for spares or restores them to near new condition.

The Black/Pink wire connects to the Orange at the compressor, so it was shorting out the thermal switch. Replacement compressor is the way to go, even if you have to swap the new piston seal.

The ring at the back is there to hold the brushes back when you fit the rear cover. You pull it up so it holds the brushes, then as you put the back plate on the commutator the ring is pushed in to release the brushes. The thermal cutout is also on the PCB on the back of the motor. If the motor gets too hot it goes open circuit and as it cools down goes short circuit again. However, after they have switched a few times, they fail and stay open circuit. It is connected between the Black and Orange wires on the motor so easy enough to check with a meter. If you have continuity between the two wires, it is OK, if open circuit that would mean it is either too hot or the switch has failed. In the case of an open circuit, the EAS ECU will not try and power the motor as it thinks it has overheated. They can be replaced but are a real pain as it involves drilling out the rivets that hold the PCB in the back of the motor.

The Aerosus springs appear identical to OE Dunlops from the pictures and, as you are outside the EU so won't have to pay the 20% VAT, OE Dunlops from Island 4x4 will be cheaper. At least you know what you are getting with Dunlop. There used to be some Chinese made Dunlop copies around which only had one O ring rather than two so would always leak. The Aerosus ones may be these but you don't know. With Dunlops you know what you are getting.

You're in the right place, I've got 2 as well, although both mine are V8's on LPG.

It can be replaced but it is inside the back of the compressor motor, between the brushes and is a real pain to change. I've seen one where someone has drilled and tapped the back plate on the motor and bolted it on the outside, seemed to work OK.

Most definitely yes, second hand ones are likely to work. Chinese ones work but give the wrong readings so the fuel trims go all over the place.