No you don't. Display the picture in Imgur, right click on it and select copy link location. Go to write your post, click the insert picture icon and paste the link into the box that pops up.
Slightly out of focus but looks OK to me. Was it pressurising the cooling system or just losing a bit of coolant?
Morat wrote:
but it won't have any effect on starting especially in this weather.
But he's in Tasmania so approaching winter there.......
Got my rear washer working. Blasted the pipes through with an air line and nothing came out except on the little short section in the upper tailgate. So replaced that. Not sure how long it will keep working but it is at the moment.
Heater comes into it's own when the temperature is around or slightly above freezing and the atmosphere is damp, think foggy mornings. The intake air accelerating through the throttle body lowers the temperature and with lots of moisture in the air it can form ice in the intake. If you take it off you will have air leaks as the mounting bolt holes go right through to the intake so they need to be plugged up.
Nicely made bit of kit, all machined alloy not like most that are cast Mazak (aka Zamak or Monkey metal) which means they are virtually impossible to rebuild as the steel screws seize in and shear off when you try to take them apart.
Yup, 5am. Ideal time for a beer if you ask me.
As long as you treat it as late last night and not early this morning......
Surely, that's after the sun has gone past the yardarm? Have a beer like everyone else, at least it's the afternoon....
I've got an Allmakes one on mine https://www.lrdirect.com/PCF101420-Tank-Expansion/
Unlike the original, I can actually see how much coolant I have without taking the cap off......
Tried a test earlier this afternoon with 3 of us and it worked perfectly, all you need do is click the link and enter the password. At one point Gordon connected using the App on his phone so was there twice so even that side of it works. Jitsi seems to be very similar to Teams but with a few extras, the ability to share a Youtube video being one of them.
Yes, but I felt there was just a little too much movement on the steering one way or the other. Once I take it out on a longer run I may notice a difference but just a quick run down the road didn't really seem to show anything.
Sounds like a plan. We were using Microsoft Teams at work and my retirement piss up was done over Teams, 27 people at the peak, all sitting at home having a beer while talking random bollocks. One guy at work has Type 1 Diabetes so hasn't been out of the house since before official lockdown started so he's been occupying his time generating pub quiz type questions which have now become a weekly event on a Thursday evening (they even invite retired members like me).
The only thing is when? Any evening except a Thursday would suit me and I would think something like 8pm was suit most.
Bolt wrote:
I mean, What could possibly go wrong?
Something, anything. I leave the non-squirting rear washer on mine so it is happy in the knowledge that it isn't quite perfect. I know damn well if I renewed the pipe so it doesn't constantly clog up, it would find something else, almost certainly more important, to fail.
Swore at it, a lot..... Some time ago, at least two years (because it moved with me when I moved house, so probably nearer 3 years), I bought an intermediate steering shaft. At the time there was a bit of vagueness at straight ahead but after replacing the steering tie bar, it went away so I never bothered to fit it. Ever since then I've always had to steer slightly right on a cambered road (and slightly left when I'm on the Continent) but thought that maybe changing it might have an affect. So, today, I decided I would fit it. Simple enough job, undo the bolts, slide the old shaft out and slot the new one in.
So, first of all the bottom UJ didn't want to slide off the splines on the steering box input shaft. Got it partway out and it decided it wasn't coming out any further. Ended up using a ball joint splitter which got it off but also destroyed the plastic collar with the pointer on it that shows when the box is centralised. Fortunately I know it is at the moment but I'll just have to remember that should I ever need to take it off. With the aid of a club hammer knocked it down so it came off the splines on the base of the column. So far so good, although it had put up a bit of a fight, the old one was off. Put a smear of HMP grease on the splines at both ends, slotted the new one in at the top and put the pinch bolt in. Rather than having the splined centre section the new one (marked on the box as being Eurospares) has a pretty hefty hexagonal bar but the principal is the same, it slides to adjust the length and is then locked in place with a pinch bolt. The other difference is that the ends are steel rather than alloy on the original. Slid the lower UJ onto the steering box and put the pinch bolt in. It was at this point things started to go wrong. The hole for the pinch bolt was too close to the centre line so it went in a couple of turns then went very tight.
The groove in the input shaft in the steering box is only shallow which meant that the splined of the groove removed the thread from the pinch bolt. Not possible to drill the hole out and use a bolt with a Nylock nut on the other end, so the other option was to open up the groove. Can't get in there with the grinder so had to resort to the old school method. Kneeling on the front bumper while trying to file a bit of high tensile steel in 28 degree heat is not a good way of spending an afternoon. The sweat dribbling into your eyes also means you have to keep stopping as you can't see what you're doing. After about an hour of filing, the groove was opened up sufficiently that the pinch bolt would go into without having it's thread removed on the way through. Tighten everything up, put tools away and take it out to try it. Absolutely no different to how it had been before, still needs correction to stop it wandering down the camber, even found a bit of empty road where I could drive on the wrong side and simulate being on the Continent and it needs correcting the the other way. OK, there was no discernible slack in either UJ but the rubber bit did look a bit perished so I may have tightened things up a little. Just not enough to notice it......
Even after editing the post so the picture shows up, I still have one question. Where's the bloody rear wheel??
and what did you do in 1994 that caused you to meet a GMP Traffic officer? Would probably still have been using their Classics then.
Or at least there shouldn't be, even though Bolt admitted that he walked around to the front of the car and looked at the RH side as looking at it......
For the first 8 years of it's life mine spent much of it's time dragging dead 44 tonners off the M6. I had an email conversation not long after I got it with a retired GMP traffic plod that used to drive it, reckoned it, and the other matching ones in the batch that they had, were the best cars they ever had.
Nice one. Yes, there is a connection to the BeCM from the switch/display unit so that is obviously what tells it to put the light up on the dash.
Re the compressor kicking in every so often. Has the valve block been rebuilt as a slight leak through the diaphragm valve could cause the pressure in the reservoir to drop gradually so the compressor will be caused to kick in by the pressure switch. Or it might just be a pressure switch with a particularly narrow hysteresis.
He says he has, but there's two ways to achieve it, either with the harness that plugs into the BeCM or with two wire jumpers on the plug to the EAS ECU. Difference is the harness costs around £50 and two bits of wire cost a lot less than that but they both do the same job. I can't see anyone fitting both but it's always possible I suppose.