The HRC part number is a bit of an oddity. A Google search comes up with a few hits but either from eBay or a supplier in the US and does indeed state that it is for a 4.0 litre Discovery. However, I though the Disco engine and the P38 engines are the same 42D prefix and searching Microcat doesn't show any hits at all.. Then I thought that it might be a cam for an earlier, Classic, engine but that has a distributor driven from a gear on the front and I think you'd have noticed if it was that different. That one uses a fully circular thrust plate next to the middle bearing.

I think the important thing is that the thrust plate should be the same thickness as the groove it sits in on the camshaft. If both have grooves of the same thickness then it still points towards the thrust plate being too thin.

That's showbiz for you but a show a day is a promoter taking the piss a bit. The travel ban at the moment is a ban on flights from the Schengen countries to the US with flights from the UK not affected. Dina's daughter had a trip to the US in May planned and paid for but she's cancelled that as she's not sure if they'd let her in. Even though she'd be flying from the UK and is UK resident, she has a Latvian passport so they could assume she's flown via the UK to try to find a way round the ban. If you still have your NZ passport you shouldn't have any problem at all unless things change.

I told her she needed a fob filter, in fact, I very nearly offered to take the one off my car and fit it on hers but then she said she never used them anyway it didn't seem worth it. I did wonder if the lack of sync with the aerial disconnected could be down to the signal having to fight it's way through the car as the Rx aerial is on the RH side but her drivers door is on the LH side. You've already had the BeCM a couple of years ago (still unlocked) and I was able to sync the fobs previously so something has changed. She's got two fobs and originally they both worked, then one stopped and wouldn't sync then the second one went the same way so she doesn't bother any more. The only other weird one with it is that after reconnecting the battery I set all the windows but the drivers window will not set no matter how long you hold the button down but all the others will.

As far as I remember, there's nothing at the back (and nothing shown in the overhaul manual either), it's just held in place by the thrust plate. If it was just the new camshaft that had the end float I'd say it faulty but as the original one is the same, that suggests the wrong thrust plate.

I mentioned it earlier (thought it was on this thread but obviously not) that mine, as an ex-police car, did have extra wiring around the tailgate connector, including a switch and a couple of diodes that obviously stopped something from being back fed. The setting may also turn off the blown bulb warnings in some circuits as I found that if you overload a lighting circuit by adding an extra load (in my case by adding a 25W beacon to a tail light circuit), it will flag up a blown bulb warning and shut that circuit down.

Errm, no.

From the overhaul manual:

Camshaft end-float - check

1. Remove rocker shaft assemblies.
2. Remove pushrods and store in their fitted order.
3. Remove timing chain and gears.
4. Temporarily fit camshaft gear bolt.
5. Attach a suitable DTI to front of cylinder block with stylus of gauge contacting end of camshaft.
6. Push camshaft rearwards and zero gauge.
7. Using camshaft gear bolt, pull camshaft forwards and note end-float reading on gauge.
   End-float = 0.05 to 0.35 mm (0.002 to 0.014 in)
8. If end-float is incorrect, fit a new thrust plate and re-check. If end-float is still incorrect, a new camshaft must be fitted.

So 5mm is way too much.

The French have their priorities right. Called in at a large Hypermarket on Saturday as the wine cellar (cupboard) was getting a bit low and found that as well as bog roll and tinned food, the French are stocking up on cheap wine too. I can think of worse ways of self isolating......

That's right but the problem can be that if parked on a steep hill, the pin can shear off so the car runs off on it's own. That's why you should never put it into P while still moving and always use the handbrake as well.

EAS wiring goes through a connector in the LH footwell behind the kick panel. There's another one on the RH side which has cabling for the OBD socket amongst others which also goes green and hairy.

Last MoT figures were CO 0.02%, HC 24ppm

What he's talking about is CO2 which is inherently lower on a diesel engine than a petrol engine which is why diesels became popular in the first place. The CO2 when running on LPG is 10-20% lower than when running on petrol but still higher than an equivalent diesel. However, although CO2 is a greenhouse gas it is the other things that are of most concern these days. The particulate emissions on a diesel P38 will be very high (as it is too old to have a DPF), considerably lower on a petrol P38 and virtually non-existent on a petrol engine running on LPG. It's also a far less complex hydrocarbon than petrol without any of the additives petrol needs to have so the NOx and other carcinogenic emissions are virtually nil too.

Oddly, I've just been asked about the same things by a man who has just bought a P38 with LPG conversion and found the spare wheel well around the LPG tank full of water. His are crumbling away too.

and the verdict is, it wasn't the alternator. One of Teri's neighbours has obviously bought themselves a new toy which is sending a burst of data on 433.975 MHz every 2.5 minutes. So after 2 minutes of nothing happening, the BeCM goes to sleep and within 30 seconds at most, it's woken up again. I wouldn't have expected the 0.7A draw to flatten the battery overnight but with a bit more info it seems that the car isn't used every day. So she had been going to it to check the battery, firing it up to make sure it was OK then switching it off again. So it wasn't being run for long enough to put back what had been taken out by starting it. Initially thought about disconnecting the RF receiver aerial, tried to sync the fob which didn't happen. Was then told that the fobs won't sync for some reason so they haven't been used for some time. Door latch is one of Marty's reconditioned ones and the microswitches check out fine. So just unplugged the receiver completely. Current drain is marginal, too low for the clamp on meter to give an accurate figure and it stays that way, so all good. That was Saturday and it was still fine this morning so I'm told.

Just need to get your alternator back to you now Toby.

I've only ever driven one diesel P38 (a French spec one that I'm going over to sort out horrendous battery drain on at the weekend) and I thought it felt a bit sluggish pulling away from standstill until I gave it more welly, then it didn't seem as bad as I'd been led to believe. Once rolling it drives much that same as any other P38 although not changing up until it hit about 3,000 rpm felt odd after my V8 which changes up at about 1,500-1,700 unless I'm flooring it.

I must admit, when I poke the Sport button it always surprises me how quickly a two tonne lump with the aerodynamics of a small warehouse can accelerate. But then, you've got a diesel.......

The Routemaster system pre-dates the P38 by very many years. The P38 system is a development of it. No idea if it uses a similar valve block though (and no idea where my local Routemaster main dealer is either....).

I'd seen the driver pack repair mentioned before but I'm not 100% convinced it is the problem. If it is simply the cap drying out (which isn't an unlikely problem) then rather than spending time digging the potting out why not just solder a replacement cap in parallel on the power feed? It's only going to be there for smoothing. I have found a driver pack where the ends of the cables weren't within the compound and they had started to corrode. I had an intermittent problem on one corner and that turned out to be a weak contact in the connector between driver pack and valve block. It's always possible that following the work the fault was actually in the connector and was cured by simply unplugging it and plugging it back in.

Just answered Rob on the other thread as my car is a former Greater Manchester Police Motorway patrol car. Don't really know what it does although thinking about it, it may stop bulb blown warnings when additional lights are powered from existing circuits too.

The Nanocom documentation says it shouldn't be set without the police wiring mods having been carried out. As well as the cabling and split charge relay for the auxiliary battery that used to live in the boot, an additional fusebox and about a mile of extra cabling above the headlining, the only non standard wiring was around the boot release with an additional switch and a couple of diodes all neatly wrapped in heatshrink. What it did I have no idea but suspect it was so the car could be locked and the boot still being accessible. Mine is now set for Police disabled but it didn't seem to make any difference when it was enabled. It'll be another of those mystery options that only the guy that programmed it in the first place knows what it does.

I was hoping to see a post saying you'd got it booked in with Simon......

That would be about 16mpg on gas at half the cost of petrol so a cost equivalent of 32 mpg.

and Romanrob is near Heathrow too so if you need someone with a Nanocom......

Welcome

Didn't you also look into replacing the NRVs in the valve block with off the shelf ones too? Get anywhere with that?