RAVE probably won't tell you as it is a workshop manual not a parts manual. The rubber trims that go along the top of the doors and down the A pillars are:
ALR6938 - SEAL ASSY A POST / HEADER RH and
ALR6939 - SEAL ASSY A POST / HEADER LH
Most places show them as no longer available except for JLR Classic who show them as out of stock
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/alr6939-seal-assembly-a-post-header.html
Police spec cars were ordered in whatever spec and with whatever options the particular force wanted. Most were white but some were blue, most had the base model cloth interior but some had the leather. It may well be that if a vehicle was needed in a hurry a standard production one would have been bought and modified after purchase. But a car with Lowline BeCM, cloth seats, no reverse dip (you only got that with the electric memory seats anyway) and simply badged as 4.0 could well have been an unmarked car. Marked wouldn't have any badging on the tailgate as that would have been covered in reflective chevrons. Only one extra aerial would seem to back that up, mine had the cabling above the headlining for 2 additional aerials (which would have been a UHF local pocketphone channel and a VHF force wide channel) where they had removed the aerials and poked the bases through before filling the holes along with 4 more holes where the light bar had been attached. I've got the useful options, front fogs, headlamp wash/wipe and AC but the cloth interior from a base model, no cruise control or trip computer, no radio from the factory and low line speaker install (which I've since upgraded to mid line spec). I've got a pushbutton very neatly fitted onto the blank where the sunroof switch would be if it had a sunroof and the odd hole here and there where things have been fitted inside. There's also a 120A split charge relay under the bonnet and two cables running to the offside boot for an aux battery and some mods to the tailgate wiring which I suspect allowed you to lock the car but still leave it possible to open the tailgate. But best of all, It's still got the big spray stopper mudflaps!
To calibrate the speedo you first need to know how far out it is, by how much and in what way by comparing the speedo reading against a sat nav. The GPS on the sat nav will only be 100% accurate when travelling at a constant speed on a flat, straight piece of road.
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If you have a GEMS and a Nanocom that makes it very easy as in the ABS menu (ABS- Diagnostic-Utilities-Speedo) there is a setting that causes the speedo to read around 50 mph (Nanocom documentation says it will make the speedo read 100 mph but on all that I've tried it on it reads about 50 mph). So you can set that, make a mental note of what it reads, drive holding your speed at that same point and compare what the speedo says against the GPS. Then you have your baseline figures so can adjust from there.
Take the instrument cluster out, break the yellow paper seals so you can remove the translucent plastic over (which will also mean unplugging the speaker) and look along the top of the circuit board you'll see a row of trimmer pots on each side. The ones you need are marked VR3 and VR4.
VR4 deals with Offset and adjusts the reading by the same amount over the full range. So if it permanently reads 5mph over, then you adjust that with VR4. VR3 deals with slope so if it reads OK at 20 mph but the error gets progressively greater the faster you go, adjust the slope until it is correct over the full range. With the instrument cluster surround out, the cluster itself in place but not screwed in and the translucent over partly loose, you can get in there with a very short trimming tool (I used the screwdriver bit from a set of the interchangeable bits) but be careful as you only need to give the pots a tiny bit of movement (many years of tuning radio transmitters for maximum power means I've got pretty good at it).
If you feel like having a play while you are in there, VR1 deals with the Temp gauge reading, VR2 the fuel gauge reading while VR5 and 6 do the same as 3 and 4 but on the rev counter (can't remember which is which though but you have the same offset and slope adjustments on those two).
I tend to put a good dollop of RTV in each end, shove the triangular bits into the gaps, lay the gasket in and put the metal bit in place with the bolt finger tight. The bolt holes in the gasket don't line up at that point but then when the manifold is lowered into place that pushes everything down so the holes do line up.
Plenty to choose from here https://tinleytech.co.uk/product-category/lpg-parts/electrical/temperature-senders/
7J should be fine. My car is on 7J x 16 wheels (which were an option on early base spec cars and obviously ordered by plod) and the standard tyre size is 235/70 x 16 which gives the same rolling circumference as 255/65 x 16 and 255/55 x 18 if fitted with 8J 16 or 18 inch wheels.
No, the knurled thumbscrew is the bit you screw in to close off the gas outlet, the bit you remove is the bit sticking out facing towards you where the solenoid coil was. You tried removing the manual valve so would have emptied the tank if you'd left it long enough. Bear in mind that 1 litre of liquid becomes 270 litres of vapour so you would have filled your farm.....
Had you asked in another 6 months time we'd all have known how you spent lockdown.....
Can't help, my daughter is older than a P38 so never had need to fit one.
What sensor on top of the reducer? Can't see one in the pictures, only the inlet solenoid and filter housing. Temp sensor may be screwed into one of the bolt holes holding the two parts together, small, brass with a couple of thin, usually orange, wires coming from it.
and the gasket sits on top of the seal but under the metal thing. Your picture seems to show the gasket over the top.
The triangular bit on the end of the seal should push down between the top of the block and the head. From your photo it looks like it isn't seated properly. I put the ends in first and push them down then push the rest into place.
Resistances sound about right. Try putting 12V on them and see if they go clack.
Profess......
HaHaHaHaHa, it's never worked properly then.......
It's a Dream XXI-S system so the engine running is detected by ignition pulses, the MAP sensor does what it says on the tin, it's a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor so gas pressure is relative to manifold pressure so will vary to keep it the same with respect to manifold pressure (or vacuum). MAP sensor fault won't cause no changeover but it will cause poor running.
So they can use the same hub casting on both sides. Depending on what side it is going on depends on which hole gets blanked off.
Is it rust or oil from the half shaft seal?
If that solenoid is OK, do the same with the front one. If they both test OK, is the system actually trying to change over? Common problem is the wire breaks off the temperature sensor on the reducer so the system thinks it isn't hot enough to change over. If it attempts to change over then immediately changes back, that is likely to be a stuck solenoid (no gas pressure being detected), if it doesn't attempt to change over then I'd be looking at the temperature sensor.
Fuse 41, 20A, supplies power to the contacts of the relay.
The 'relay' is the solenoid coil that operates the shut off valve on the tank. Check the resistance it should be around 11 Ohms and look for any cracks in the plastic body. If you put 12V onto it, you should hear the solenoid make a very audible clack as it opens. If you remove the small bolt in the centre of it, the coil just lifts off laving the valve body behind so no gas will leak out, but you'll be able to test and inspect it much better. Just behind it is a knurled knob which is a manual shut off valve. If you screw that in fully clockwise, that will stop the contents of the tank leaking out when you do the next step. At the base of the brass spindle that the coil sits on is a hex, usually 17 or 19mm. With a deep socket, slacken that off, some gas will escape (the gas in the pipe between the tank and the front shut off solenoid) so let it bleed out slowly. Once it stops, unscrew the spindle and take it out. There's a spring loaded plunger inside it that can get gummed up, clean it and put it back together.
On a pre-2000 model and SRS fault will still be there until it is cleared with diagnostics even after the actual fault is cleared. It's only on the later ones where the light goes out after you've fixed the fault without it needing to be cleared.
Horn button applies a ground via the rotary coupler. One side of it will have a ground on it while the other side should go to the relay so the ground causes it to operate.
I thought it would only go in one way. Have a close look at it and see if it looks like it has been butchered.
From the picture in RAVE, it looks like it is angled upwards?
