Info button probably hasn't been used for many years so a squirt of contact cleaner inside the switch might be needed, same goes for the speed limit button. If the horn doesn't work, and as you have an SRS fault showing, the rotary coupler behind the steering wheel could be damaged. That carries the wires from the buttons on the steering wheel (and to the drivers airbag) to the rest of the world.

i is for info, press that and it shows Range, Average MPG, Average speed, Trip 2, and then back to Trip. The Bell symbol is for a speed warning, press once to to it on, press and hold and the speed you have selected for the warning, increments in 5MPH steps, release it when it shows the speed you want it to warn you when you hit it (actually it goes off about 3mph below). Press it again and it turns it off. Scared me sh*tless one day. Missus was driving through Poland while I was gently snoozing in the passenger seat when I was woken by a continuous beep, beep, beep from the dash. Told her to pull over immediately but the dash showed no faults. Turned out that she had accidentally pressed the button and had turned the speed limit warning on. As it had never been used, it was set at 20mph so as soon as she exceeded 20mph the dash started beeping constantly. Just in case she did it again, I set it at 90 mph.....

For cruise, which you do have as the bellows can be seen just behind the EAS box with the cable running to the throttle. You will have a button marked with a Motorway symbol next to the EAS rocker and hazard switch, that turns on the cruise control. You then use the left button on the steering wheel to set the speed and the right button to disengage it. It will also disengage if you touch the brake pedal. However, it won't work. It is driven by a small vacuum pump and you will see a couple of short hoses and a Tee piece on the back of the bellows. These hoses will almost certainly be perished and split at the Tee. One of the hoses runs to a switch on the brake pedal, that one either splits at the switch or where it passes through the bulkhead (or both). Hoses are 6mm ID and, other than getting a replacement through the bulkhead and getting your hands onto the brake pedal switch (not a lot of room), simple enough to replace.

Inside the hole you should see the splash shield so you aren't looking at the rockers. Mine used to be a 50/50 chance whether the cap or the whole thing would unscrew so I cleaned up the threads in the rocker cover, degreased the funnel part and put it back with a slobber of Loctite. There should be a couple of lugs inside it that you can lever against the screw it in good and tight (or use to hold it steady so you can unscrew the cap).

Can't give you a cam recommendation but cam bearings are supplied undersized, fitted and the block then line bored so not something that you can do with the engine in situ.

Obviously a diesel thing, but it does say to leave it for 5 minutes for the oil to all drain back to the sump. I can't see it will make much difference to the level hot or cold.

I'd go for the Intermotor or Allmakes if it were me

https://www.lrdirect.com/ERR6045-Coil-Pack-4-Plugs-Ds2-V8-2-Requi/

Yes, the Thor coil packs are two dual ended coils in one block, so yes, it does sound like it's new coil pack time.

Most threads do when they get to more than a couple of pages, as long as the original question was answered/problem identified who cares where it goes from there? As the name of this place suggests, it's a virtual pub, wander in, sit down, ask your question then get involved in a bit of banter and conversation that may well go off on a tangent. Difference here compared with .net is that nobody gets a bollocking and their post removed for taking a thread off topic. I'm trying to take a few threads off topic to see if one of the other mods bollocks me......

From the Nanocom GEMS manual:

Short term idle (steps): This is the value that the GEMS use’s to regulate the current idle speed
to take into account current engine load, temperature etc. It can be manually altered here may
later be changed by GEMS. The value is in steps and it can be a number between 0 and 255.

Long term idle: This is the value that the GEMS learns over a period of time to take into account
manufacturers tolerances on components which affect overall idle speed. This value cannot be
modified, but it can be reset, forcing the GEMS to re-learn this value.

So don't worry about it. If you reset the adaptive values it will reset but will then learn and set itself where it needs to be.

Vacuum cleaner down the hole where the pollen filter goes or just whack the fans on flat out so it chops the leaves into little bits.

Don't understand? Are you talking about long and short term fuel trims (LTFT and STFT)? 20 to 36 on the IACV is correct at idle but it should go up under acceleration as it opens up to give a cleaner pick up as you open the throttle.

If you mean the one on the opposite side to the throttle body, no. Then there's the one from the other rocker cover into the throttle body, that often goes all squishy and horrible as well as the little one that is hidden..

Main problem is that it attacks rubber so any hoses or seals in the fuel system need to be changed. From 1999 onwards manufacturers stopped using any rubber components anyway which is why they say it should only be used in cars built from 2000. I only use petrol the same as a spare wheel anyway, it's just there in case of emergency.

There's also a thin vacuum pipe to the fuel pressure regulator tucked away under the bracket for the throttle cable. That often gets missed and can split at the end.

For GEMS, https://www.direnza.co.uk/range-rover-p38-4-0l-4-6l-v8-94-99-aluminium-radiator, or the same thing from the same supplier via eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/55mm-ALUMINIUM-SPORT-RADIATOR-RAD-FOR-LAND-RANGE-ROVER-MK2-P38-4-0-4-6-V8-94-99/352577843032

For diesel, https://www.direnza.co.uk/range-rover-p38-2-5-td-94-99-aluminium-radiator, or via eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/55mm-TWIN-CORE-ALUMINIUM-RACE-RADIATOR-RAD-FOR-LAND-RANGE-ROVER-2-5-TD-P38-94-99/392067849387

Thor has the top spigot on the opposite side to GEMS but they don't list one for the Thor.

I've bought about 5 Direnza ones now for myself and different people, odd that the one for a GEMS petrol without the integrated oil cooler is more expensive than the one for a diesel. More recent ones are slightly different to the older ones with Direnza pressed into the top and a serial number sticker whereas the earlier ones were just plain alloy and no serial number on them. Highest temperature I have seen since fitting it is 96 degrees and that was after driving at around 80 mph for 200 miles when it was 41 degrees outside. Under normal circumstances I've never seen over 93 degrees.

6.6 from completely dry but that includes the oil cooler and it's hoses. After a drain and filter change you'll be looking at between 5 and 5.5 litres.

It isn't a case of them not running on it, it's a case that the higher Ethanol content will attack some of the materials in the fuel system. Obviously the steel fuel pipes will be fine but it is some of the flexi sections of hose that may be degraded. It's only going from 5% Ethanol to 10% but E15 has been the norm in most European countries for about 2 years now. I've put E15 in my P38 and my old 1993 Classic, without any adverse affects but I will admit, if I was going to run on it regularly, I'd renew all the fuel lines maybe even with Goodridge 200 series braided Nitrile.

AWR2174 is the plastic bit the the screws go into but they seem to be the only screws that aren't listed, probably because they are just standard self tapping screws. The ones that hold the plenum on are DA610065L which are the large headed screws that seem to hold the entire car together, see https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Discovery-2-Range-Rover-P38-New-Genuine-Self-Tapping-Screw-Pack-of-5-DA610065L-/112504795164

Bloody hell, no wonder it was sitting on the piss, that's ridiculous. Why would someone have saved settings like that?