I've never seen any that aren't corroded, it just depends how keen the tester is to put something on advice. The guy that tested the Ascot said that it looks suspicious if they pass a 20+ year old car with no advisories, it makes VOSA think they aren't doing the test properly.

Should you decide to replace the hoses though, these https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/goodridge/goodridge-brake-hose-kits/brake-hose-kits-car/range-rover are a good deal for a full set. Or you can buy the ends and a length of hose and make them up https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/goodridge/goodridge-600-series-brake-clutch-hose-fittings, I had to do that recently for new hoses for the Maserati I'm in the process of putting back on the road. Brake hoses, something I would have regarded as almost a service item, are no longer available????

I saw your message and replied to it but not immediately so you had probably given up and gone to bed before it arrived. Almost identical system here, Lenovo Thinkpad W530 laptop, quad core i7 processor, 16Gb RAM, Windows 10, the latest release of Firefox and using the integrated webcam and mic, so I can't see why it worked perfectly for me but not for you.

I just tried logging into the link and as there is no host (Gordon) it isn't currently active. However, I got two small boxes appear at the top. One in green saying Firefox is using the webcam with a drop down arrow on the right with the options of, Hide Notification, Block Application Access to Webcam, Webcam Protection Settings and PID: 2516 Application Rules. I also get a smaller Orange box with teh Firefox logo and a picture of a camera and a mic. If I click on that it opens up a the Site Information. In that it shows Connection Secure and beneath that, Permissions with Use Camera and Use Microphone both shown as Allowed. Maybe you've got something odd set in there so it isn't allowing you to use them?

We could see Dave connect, even his name came up, but no picture or audio. Every so often it would disconnect him (or maybe he disconnected and tried again?) but never actually joined. 9 was the max at one point (if you include Dave who was there but wasn't and Clive who had a working camera but a very dodgy microphone).

Just tried signing in as the host to see if I could see you but it looks like Gordon, as the real host, has to do it, all I got was a message saying it was connecting but never did.

I see a picture of myself with a box saying the host hasn't signed in yet and giving me the option to sign in as the host. That may be because I signed in for the test and it has saved my sign in or you may have to wait a couple of hours for it to start.

I'd give up trying to find the source and run it until it goes bang or goes away.

It's only Tuesday night here, it hasn't happened yet, it's tomorrow......

You wouldn't think something as simple as soapy water would be such a useful tool. I've used mine to locate a tyre leaking from the valve, an AC leak on a Toyota and a leak on a domestic AC system. All from a window cleaner bottle that would have been thrown away.

A ban on alcohol sales? That would have caused riots here, with nothing else to do alcohol consumption has rocketed.....

He can still get virtual beer for a virtual pub........

RAVE, the workshop manual can be found here http://rangerovers.pub/static/rave.zip and while you are at it, bookmark http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234 which is the online parts catalogue.

I've got the Vredestein Quadrac 5s on mine which are a combined summer/winter tyre. The inside edge is a softer compound rubber with a snow type tread pattern while the outer edge is a harder summer compound with standard summer tread pattern. That, combined with slightly too much toe out meant my fronts were wearing on the inside edge and down to about 1mm while the rest of the tyre was at around 4mm while the rears were at around 4mm everywhere. So I swapped them front to back to even out the wear. They've been on there for about 45,000 miles so not bad wear rate even though I will need to buy a new set for winter if, assuming we're allowed to go anywhere by then, I take the planned trip to Latvia. Most European countries insist on a minimum of 4mm tread on M&S or three peaks marked tyres in winter (which is where most of the part worn tyres come from).

Rears don't wear as fast as the fronts anyway as they don't have the lateral load from cornering, rears just push you along.

As long as you have a tread depth of over 1.6mm over 75% of the width, then putting them on the back will be fine.

By the way, you'd be welcome to join us for a pint tomorrow evening https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1775-a-night-out-at-the-pub

This https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-VALVE-BLOCK-O-RING-DIAPHRAGM-REPAIR-FIX-KIT/321451232414 is the kit that includes the diaphragm although there is also this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-COMPRESSOR-SEAL-LINER-VALVE-BLOCK-O-RING-DIAPHRAGM-KIT/321451243072 which includes new seals and gaskets for the compressor so you can overhaul the whole system. There's an excellent write up on how to do it here http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/eas-valve-block-renew/.

My ABS pump decided it had reached the end of it's life at about 270k miles so yours still has quite a bit of life left in it.

Using it is the best way of doing it. I bought mine after it had been almost completely neglected so in addition to the blown head gasket and burst rear air spring which I knew about, using it threw up lots of other, not critical, but annoying faults. The same goes for my spare, the Ascot. Took it for the MoT test about a month ago and everything was fine and working. Next time I used it I had the book symbol on the HEVAC so sorted that and now it is showing an SRS fault. They don't like not being used.

Well done and welcome. It's morning here too, I think SA is on the same timezone as UK or at least very close. Sounds and looks like you've got a decent one there. Listing your queries one at a time.

1. Assume you mean every time you press the brake pedal? Yes, accumulator will sort that.
2. You've got it. If only one corner drops, that is the one with the leak, if they all drop then the most likely place for a leak would be the diaphragm in the valve block. Some overhaul kits only come with the O rings and not a new diaphragm or it might be that the PO only replaced the O rings you can get to with the block in one piece rather than replacing the internal ones too. A squirty bottle filled with a mix of water and washing up liquid is you best way of looking for leaks.
3. https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/clip-seat-base-trim-beige-large-britpart-awr2539smk-p-32993.html will get you started.
4. HEVAC fan speed is a wiper on a track with segments on it so a squirt of contact cleaner and working it back and forth should sort that out, or, if it also has dead pixels it might be easier to get a fully refurbed one from Marty (http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=75_80). The head unit, assuming the original Alpine unit, isn't quite so simple as it uses a BCD controller so no contacts to clean. If your steering wheel controls work, use them instead.
5. At some point the steering column has been off and hasn't been put back centralised. There is a notch in the column itself which should be at the midpoint so the same amount of turn either way cancels the indicator. If it is off slightly it gives the problem you have. I don't know if there any markings to show you when it is right (I suspect there may be) but to correct it you would need to disconnect the column at the steering box, turn the wheel slightly so it lines up with the next spline, then take the steering wheel off and move that on the splines to get it correct again. Problem with doing this is if you go too far you will damage the rotary coupler and lose the steering wheel controls, horn and SRS connection.

I'll echo mad-as, make sure you have working key fobs and if you find that the door locks start to lock and unlock themselves when driving, deal with it immediately rather than waiting until it locks you out. Do you have any specialists in the area just in case or it might be worth investing in diagnostics of some sort.

Being sold with no reserve, you might be able to get it for what you originally wanted to pay. I can't see the seller making a profit on that in that state.

How badly worn are the fronts? Fronts are always going to wear faster even if your alignment is spot on, why not just swap front to rear to even them up?

I've got the Allmakes and it took a bit of fiddling to get it hanging level. Initially I had one side against the tie down but by adjusting how far it was pushed into the joint I got it right.

Suits me too

Fix the cause, not fudge your way round the symptom. That requires a diagnostics mindset that can't be taught, you either have it or you don't. I've heard the same story regarding BMW just lifting as much technology as they could and when you compare the two, the X5 and the L322 are so similar they could have come from the same manufacturer. In much the same way as Ford lifted the heated screen.....

Agree totally on the electronics. What they managed to achieve with discrete components and the minimum of logic is amazing considering the state of the technology at the time. Now there's a project for Marty while he's got no work on, build a Raspberry Pi based BeCM.......