Wouldn't have thought so. The weight of the paint will be negligible and if you've got an even coat it will still be balanced anyway.

You can from http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/p38a-eas-unlock-videos/167-range-rover-p38a-making-the-eas-serial-cable but if you don't have a spare OBD plug laying around, it's cheaper to buy a ready made cable than it is to buy just the plug.

You could try phoning Clarion. Whether or not they are working I've no idea, but they might be able to point you in the right direction.

They are, and that appears to be for a pack of 5!!

https://pablanchard.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=NTC8902

If it came out like that I'm not surprised the O ring is ruined, the barrel is upside down! The flat side goes on the bottom and the side with the step goes into the top to bear against the O ring.

As for a cable, it depends what laptop you intend using it with. Ideally you want something really old and low spec with a serial port so you don't have to use a serial/USB adapter. If you do need to use a USB adapter make sure you get one with an FTDI chipset or it will be constantly dropping the connection.

leolito wrote:

obviously you need a mains... uh, you guys in UK got what, 110V?

Nah, we get proper 240V, none of this wimpy 110V like they get in the States.....

Yes, it is the Clarion Diversity units that I've sent to Clarion in the past. However, they have a flat rate charge of £95 for a full refurb which includes removing the code and adding a line-in. If the unit is dead and needs repairing then that isn't too bad if you want to keep thing original, but a bit steep if all you need is the code removing. Clarion can be found here http://www.clarion-service.co.uk/cs/Repair.html although I have no idea if they are currently working. Might be an idea giving them a call and seeing if they can remove the code or maybe even tell you what it is from the serial number. Otherwise, this site has been used in the past with success https://instant-radio-code.com/clarion-radio-unlock-code

Easiest way to do it if you decide you need to keep an alarm sounder is to just connect some sort of sounder between the Purple/Yellow and Black wires in the 4 way connector to the sounder. The other two wires are to keep the internal battery charged. A cheapo piezo sound bomb (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-Piezo-siren-sounder-sound-bomb-for-security-alarms-110-decibels/254457190394) should wake the neighbours.....

Compression will only go as far as the bumpstops just as it would with standard length shocks. It's extension that will cause a problem as the maximum extended length of the shocks is what limits the amount of axle movement. With longer than standard shocks it would be possible for the air springs to over-extend and pop off the end caps, stretch the brake hoses and damage the height sensors by allowing more movement than anything was designed for.

Sounds like you have the battery backed alarm sounder and the internal battery is dying.......

Here's a little lockdown project more suited to the UK than solar https://greenterrafirma.com/making-pvc-wind-turbine-blades.html

About 6 years ago my car developed a vibration from the rear. I had recently replaced the, very worn original, rear diff so it couldn't be that and after changing propshaft UJs, rear discs, pulling half shafts to check wheel bearings, getting rear wheels balanced and nothing seemed to make any difference although no matter what I did it seemed to reduce slightly with each job. A couple of people suggested the transfer case and although I couldn't see it myself, decided to change it anyway. Bought a secondhand one and set about fitting that. After spending an entire weekend under the car and having roped in my son in law to assist with getting the replacement in, took it out and tried it. No difference, still had this vibration which, by then, was only minor at around 60 mph with nothing below that and stopping once I hit 65. Decided I could live with it and gave up. Shortly afterwards I had to take evasive action which involved a rapid change of lanes and flooring the throttle resulting in the well known machine gun sound effect from the transfer case Morse chain. Decided that as I knew the original transfer case was in better nick than this one obviously was, and changing it hadn't made any difference to the vibration, I'd swap them back and put the original in again.

This time, before taking it off, I made a bracket that I could bolt to the bottom of the transfer case to hold it at the correct angle when getting it back in. This made refitting it a one man job but it still took me a full day to swap them over again. So now I could floor the throttle without the chain skipping but still had the vibration between 60 and 65mph. Decided I would have to live with it as by now, it was noticeable but not too objectionable.

Then I had a towing job to do, not my usual 2,000 mile round trip but a fairly local one but when I stopped to fill up with gas, noticed that the entire rear tailgate and the trailer A frame were covered in spots of liquid. Had a look underneath and there was oil, or in actual fact, ATF, from the front of the transfer case rearwards. Deciding this needed looking at fairly urgently I had another look in RAVE. It was only then when I noticed that in block capitals it tells you that whenever the transfer case it removed, you MUST replace the gearbox output shaft seal. Guess who hadn't seen that bit before......

So, that resulted in a further day spent underneath the car removing a perfectly good transfer case so I could replace a seal that I should have replaced the first (and second) time it had been off. I did eventually find the source of the vibration though. The one thing I hadn't suspected, the rear diff that I had replaced not long before it had first started. The nose bearing had seized so the whole thing was turning in the housing. This time, rather than a secondhand one from a breaker, it got a reconditioned one from Ashcrofts, and the vibration immediately disappeared.

It's a Range Rover, not a bloody sports car. 'Firming it up' will just make it more uncomfortable. If you got the adjustable ones, set them at their softest.

LRO says 118mph (https://www.lro.com/reviews/land-rover-range-rover-p38-4x4-review). I've seen 169kph on the sat nav and 105 mph on the speedo (so my ex-plod calibrated speedo is still accurate) on a downhill through Germany. Bottled it as soon as I saw how quickly I was going even though I wasn't doing as much as some of the cars overtaking me.

As I said, it's had 2000 model lights fitted with the clear indicators (including side repeaters), masked headlights and the later style fog lights. AFAIK there wasn't a Vogue in '96, that didn't appear until much later, so the painted lower section may well have been the difference between an Ascot and a standard HSE. It's missing the RH front mudflap and from the brackets underneath at some stage in it's life it's had sidesteps too (brackets are still there on one side but not the other). It's also got the HK High Line audio system but when I got it the head unit was dead so I sent it to Clarion and it came back fully working, with the code removed and with a line in added. I've got the service history for it from new until 2010 when it had done 133,000 miles and it is now at 175,000. It was first registered 02/02/96 as N111ASG, in 2000 it became H1YLD but a year later it was B16WYT before being given it's current age related plate of N352MPV in 2004, although for a short time in 2010 it was K5GGY before reverting back to the standard plate. As far as I can tell, other than the light units (and the drivers seat base which I replaced), it is original. LPG conversion was done in 2002 at 85,000 miles by Hammond Land Rover but most components were replaced not long before I got it as it wasn't working. Seems I was the first person to notice the centre of the mixer was missing so it never was going to work......

All I've done on both is sprayed the bumpers, grille and strip below the headlights with bumper black paint rather than the faded grey that is standard (did the side rubbing strips and sill covers on the ex-plod too). I wish I had the patience of some of you guys to get stuck in with polish and potions but I'm afraid I draw the line at washing them.

In another effort to stop this turning into the Show us Strangerovers Range Rover, here's mine. The ex-plod has been on here plenty of times, although usually a bit dirtier than it is at the moment (getting desperate when cleaning the car is a viable way of spending a Bank Holiday) but making it's pub début is the Ascot. Now numerous people have told me that a P38 Ascot Edition didn't exist and it is probably a standard 4.6 HSE that has had an Ascot badge from a Classic stuck to it, but I have been reliably informed that it is one that was missed out of the James Taylor book and there really was a P38 Ascot Limited Edition and as such is very rare. It's obviously not how it came from the factory having had the post 2000 light units fitted which it wouldn't have had when produced in '96. Colour is Altai Silver metallic with pale blue leather interior and fitted with every option that I'm aware it would have had, sunroof, headlamp wash/wipe, front fogs, electric memory heated seats, cruise control and sitting on 18" Triple Sport wheels.

The Ascot. Why bother removing the old steel brake pipes when you fit copper nickel ones?

Nowt to worry about, it'll melt as soon as you start the engine......

I've always jammed a bit of wood in through the hole at the bottom of the bellhousing but it's a bit late now. RAVE says to stand the gearbox on end and rotate it as it drops straight down and meshes with the splines. But, if you don't fancy dropping the gearbox, I'd say just take the weight and rotate it a bit and see if you feel it slot in.

Depends what you can get in your area. Over here it's mostly Comma or Granville but you can buy it as either a concentrate that you dilute or ready mixed that you just pour in. I know that in Europe you can't buy the concentrate only the ready diluted. Check that it any you find has approval numbers from various car manufacturers and choose a make that you've heard of.