That makes sense. A box with coax going in will be the receiver and the 3 phono jacks will be the video and L/R audio. Not sure what the second one will be though, something to deal with switching the sources maybe? If this is how it is arranged, then putting a digital decoder in place of the analogue tuner should work. Do the screens work from the current DVD player?

That would make sense, a TV aerial etched into the rear window like the radio aerials would be ridiculously directional so you'd only get a picture when driving in the right direction. I suspect it is going to be amplified too so that will need power but we'll cross that bridge when the time comes (whenever that is....).

Clean the idle air valve.

Swapping the innards over is fairly simple as long as you can get the glass off without breaking the plastic frame that holds it in place. I've managed to do it once and it popped out just as it is supposed to but every other time the plastic frame has broken. Fortunately it is available as a separate part (https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/mirror-glass-clip-stc4625-p-450.html)

If the third fob is an original supplied with the car, it should sync. The process for syncing is the 'secret' method that an LR dealer will often charge you £50 'programming' fee.

I've got a feeling the cap thread is a smaller diameter too so it won't even screw on. If you look at the Island listing it shows it as a Disco 1 part and not a P38 part.

I've ordered a digital decoder and DC-DC converter which should be here by the middle of next week so I can have a play with it. It turns out that H&H is only 15 miles from me and has a near complete spare system so we can test it on the bench. Any idea where the TV aerial is located on the car?

For £15 I may as well get one of the decoders and DC-DC converter (it says it needs 5V at 2A which is a bit much to rely on a 7805) and have a play with it. Only problem would be that I would need a P38 with the TV system to try it with which might be the hardest part at the moment. However, a pic of what you have lurking behind the dash of your car would help.

It won't work on a P38 header tank. That's a cap for the header on a Classic which is a simple plastic tank and the cap doesn't have the extension with the O ring that keeps the outlet from the radiator bleed separated. This https://bearmach.com/expansion-tank-suitable-for-all-200-and-300-tdi-diesel-engine-v8-and-mpi-vehicles-black-version-esr63 is the header tank used on a Classic, Disco 1 and Defender .

I'm sure I've seen converter boxes for just this purpose but they weren't cheap and probably aren't available now. The easiest solution would be to do exactly what we all did when digital TV first started and add a decoder box. Plug the existing aerial feed into that and then use the analogue modulated signal to feed the existing analogue receiver.

You'd need something that uses an external power supply rather than mains power and you'd need to mount it somewhere that the IR receiver for the remote was still visible (or remove the IR receiver sensor from the case and mount it somewhere else) . Something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Top-TV-Box-Digital-Receiver-HD-1080P-DVB-T2-3D-Set-Freeview-Recorder-USB-HDMI-UK/372959794946 looks like it should do the job. It 5V to power it so you'd need a DC-DC converter to drop the 12V from the car down to 5V and although it has an RF out connection what it doesn't say is if that is simply a loop through or if it incorporates a modulator to give a modulated analogue signal that you simply tune the existing TV to. It seems that most of the currently available boxes don't have a built in modulator as they use HDMI and Composite video and audio that can be put into a SCART socket. But nothing insurmountable using an external modulator like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDMI-to-Coax-RF-Converter-Analog-Signal-Transmitter-Modulator-for-TV-AC1994/153866624029 which would allow you to use the HDMI output and convert it into something the existing system will display.

I've just had a look as I've got a few bits and pieces here and while I've got two DVB-T receiver boxes (neither will do HD though) here, both need mains power. Sounds like a nice little project though.

Just don't give them any sweets or you'll be cleaning sticky fingerprints off your handiwork.

Fob #2 is synced but #1 isn't so as long as you unlock with #2, then the immobiliser is off so it starts relying solely on the bit of metal with a wiggly groove in it. Smart sync doesn't always work, so you will need to do the manual sync.

Unlock the car first with #'2 so it is unlocked and the immobiliser turned off. Put #1 key in the drivers door, turn to lock, hold there and while holding there, press and hold the Lock button on the fob until the LED starts to flash faster. Release the fob button, then turn the key back to centre. Then turn to unlock, hold and while holding, press and hold the Unlock button on the fob until the LED flashes faster, release the fob button, turn the key back to centre and it should now be synced.

One thing to remember is that originally the car would have been supplied with 4 keys, numbered 1 to 4. 1 and 2 will set the memory seats while 3 and 4 won't. If at any time since a replacement key has been purchased it will likely be a 3 or 4 key but you can't have two keys with the same number synced at the same time. So if you have two number 3 keys both will sync but they can't both be synced at once, it will be one or the other

What happened then? Were you able to sync it again?

I've been busy too, well let's face it, there's nothing else I can do. I officially retired on Tuesday and the original plan was that this week would be spent getting ready for a trip to France but that's not going to happen for a while now, so I needed something else to do. The Ascot has been sitting next to a hedge so the nearside had started to turn a bit green and the rest of it was pretty dirty too so it was looking a bit sorry for itself. Fired it up to move it to make it easier to get around and instead of firing up on petrol and immediately switching to gas, it fired up on petrol then immediately died. Knowing it had at least half a tank of LPG put that on the to do list and ran it on petrol instead. Let it idle for a while and the idle started to get a bit lumpy and it smelled really rich. Next one for the to do list.

Out with the pressure washer and stepladder so I could even do the roof. Wet it, squirt it with some foamy stuff I bought when I first got the pressure washer, then went over it with the rotating brush before blasting everything off. Damn me, It isn't green it's silver! Remove the well worn Champion spark plugs and treat it to a set of NGKs and fire it up. Still smells rich. Plug the Nano in and find a reported airflow from the MAF of 0.0 kg/hr. That might have something to do with it. Dig a secondhand spare MAF out from the garage and try that, just the same. Try them both on my car and they are both dead. So have a poke about on the LPG system, find a broken earth wire, fix that, fire it up, switch to LPG and it carries on running. Result, no need for a MAF in that case, that can wait until later.

So that was yesterday, it's running fine and looks almost respectable so what next? It's always had a bit of an oily underside so maybe I could find the oil leak? It's mostly around the front of the engine so I'm thinking front crank seal, oil cooler hose, sump, oil pressure relief valve O ring or similar. Blasted the oil off so it was clean, fired it up and ran it for the best part of half an hour and it was still clean. I did remember nipping up the oil cooler hose union once before so maybe I've already fixed it without realising?

One thing that has annoyed me since I got it was the offside rear door trim not fitting right. The pegs along the top weren't doing anything so it had a gap of almost an inch between the top of the trim and the window. Off with the trim, refit it properly and that's that job done. Notice that the back seat had developed a bit of mildew on it over the winter. Find my bottle of leather cleaner and in doing so knock over a bottle of Autoglym bumper and trim gel knocking the corner off the bottle. Put that to one side and attack the rear seat with leather cleaner. That makes the fronts look grubby so do them too. Then decide to see if this bumper gel really works and have a go at the black trim along the top of the doors and round the windows. Blimey, they're black again rather than a sort of greyish colour. It's actually starting to look quite tidy!

If my MoT station is still working I'll get it in there (as the ticket on it ran out last September) for test and then I'll have a spare I can use legally in case I get a sudden urge to start finding things to do on my everyday one. I've only had two days but I'm starting to like this retirement lark.....

Yes, you've got the EKA sequence correct. If it needs the EKA only the drivers door will unlock when you turn the key. The last number will be entered by turning to lock so if you then turn to unlock, all doors will unlock.

As long as the new key was ordered from the VIN, unlock the car first either with your other fob or with the key in the door (and enter the EKA code if you need to) so it is unlocked and the immobiliser turned off. Put the new key in the drivers door, turn to lock, hold there and while holding there, press and hold the Lock button on the fob until the LED starts to flash faster. Release the fob button, then turn the key back to centre. Then turn to unlock, hold and while holding, press and hold the Unlock button on the fob until the LED flashes faster, release the fob button, turn the key back to centre and it should now be synced.

and Rob types faster than me.......

You could always get her to drive you to the supermarket? Pick one a fair distance away and if you get pulled, which is pretty unlikely, I did over 90 miles yesterday and didn't, just tell them your local one had run out of bog rolls/bread/eggs/milk......

My boss once queried why, if I am getting the train to London, the car park ticket always has the registration number for my car on it and not the works van. I pointed out that I'm not allowed to do any private mileage in the works van (and it's GPS tracked) so if I want to do some shopping on my way home from the station, I'll use my own car. The fact that I would rather drive it over a 15 plate Renault Kangoo any day has nothing to do with it.....

romanrob wrote:

Does it matter which way round 85 and 86 were with a std relay?

It may if the relay has a built in diode to prevent the back emf from damaging whatever is driving it. It's very weird what you've found as disconnecting the ground shouldn't have any other affect. It is there to give a path to ground from the switch illumination and on one side of the two switches so why it didn't work I have no idea.

Book symbol means it has detected a fault when first powered up. Do you hear the blend motors moving when you first switch on the ignition? If all 3 move from one end of their travel to the other, then there isn't a fault so they will work as they should. If a fault is detected the book symbol is bought on and the HEVAC won't try to move that blend motor. Can you adjust the temperature? If you can then the two heat blend motors are working and being driven but the distribution motor is being inhibited. You need diagnostics to confirm but I would suspect the distribution blend motor has a dead spot on the feedback pot as Gordon has outlined.

Disconnecting the ground from pin 3 of C219 is no different to the headlight switch being in the off position, no ground signal being sent to the BeCM. I was wondering if you'd wired the relay wrong so the BeCM was seeing the ground through the 300 or so Ohm resistance of the relay coil, but if that was the case, then all that would happen would be that the lights wouldn't operate at all with the relay removed (and it probably wouldn't operate with the ignition on). Check that the relay is wired correctly, ignition switched power to pin 85, ground to pin 86, and use pins 30 and 87 to break the ground to the headlight switch.