The one I uploaded is the English version.

Just had to do that on the Masser callipers but they'd been rounded off in the past so I soaked them in Plus Gas then put the bleed nipples in a bench vice and unscrewed the calliper from the nipple.

BrianH wrote:

Still not got yours fixed I guess?

He's only a youngster with too much disposable income and likes wasting money......

It's just a later version of the OMVL XXI system with different firmware and a few extra features. There was the original OMVL Dream which was just called the 21, then it became the 21C, then 21N but by then they had gone over to Roman numerals making it the XXI-N and the the XXI-P for the Piro. When I first bought my Classic, with reducer in parallel, it would freeze within 300m on a cold day and the P38 the heater would drop to lukewarm at idle. On both I changed the plumbing to series which cured both problems as the coolant had to flow through both rather than having a choice of which way to go. On the GEMS it's much easier to get neat pipe runs doing it that way and there's also less joints to leak but IIRC it isn't as easy on a Thor.

Go wash your mouth out with soap and water, why on earth would anyone want to spend on petrol , even at the current low prices, when they can run on LPG at just over half the price?

I believe the P suffix means it is the Piro system, no doubt Simon will pop up sooner or later and confirm, but the installation is the same on all the OMVL systems. I've just uploaded the installation manual to my Google Drive here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QUYczdyovWh4kzWAX7igisoVIrnT_aUU. If you can, it's better, on a car with a full flow heating system, to plumb the reducer in series with the heater matrix with the flow going through the reducer first. It ensures you get full flow and also warms up quicker.

I don't suppose it could be a knackered engine mount allowing things to move when under load?

It's Gordon you need to thank for setting it up, but the rest of us for contributing. For months now RR.net has been propped up by Rob, me and no more than half a dozen others and it's got even more US biased than it ever used to be. This place is a bit different, think of it as a virtual pub, come in, sit down, ask a question or just join in a chat. The other bonus is we've got things like the summer camps being organised. Marty, who knows more about the electronics side of things than the guy that designed it, has a workshop that he rents. We've had a few weekends where a group have gone there and tackled the jobs that people either didn't feel confident in doing or their own or didn't have the tools to do them. We had a mass headlining session one time where we did 7 and a radius arm bush replacing weekend where at the same time a few heater core O rings were changed along with the odd blend motor. If everyone mucks in, it's easy and Morat is a dab hand with the barbecue to keep everyone fed.

Even though they made me a moderator and I've been pretty active over on the dark side recently, I'm getting more and more pissed off with some of the new members on there with their stupid questions and almost total lack of understanding. So I've invited a few of the more practical, UK based, members over to here. A couple have joined up already, so welcome to them. You never know, we may even get a couple more at the post apocalyptic summer camp.......

The reviews are right, I tried grey bumper paint and it did indeed dry brown and looked disgusting. I've done mine with bumper black along with the strips below the headlights and the bumpers too. In fact, I did the side rubbing strips and sill covers while they were off when the car went in to be resprayed about 4 years ago.

This was it just after it was done, about to set off for yet another trip to the south of France

If it's reading like any other NTC temperature sensor, a very low reading, often -40 degrees, means the sensor is open circuit and a very high reading means it is closed circuit. Maybe it defaults to 125 degrees when shorted?

FTDI just work, Prolific might work sometimes but are well known for dropping the connection when they feel like it. In Device manager, under Ports, you should be able to look at the driver manufacturer which should tell you. I've never actually tried to use any serial comms under Win 10 I'm afraid, I know they work faultlessly under Win XP but normally I just use a very old laptop with a serial port running Win 2000.

I agree that the 1/2" breaker bars flex so you're not applying all the force to the nuts. That's the advantage with the one I use, no flex at all.

What computer are you using, what operating system and are you using a USB adapter. If so, does it have the FTDI chipset or Prolific?

I've got a Clark impact wrench and it's useless. I just use one of these https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/13202-teng-tools-wheel-wrench-17x19mm-12/ and a 27mm socket.

Go into Comm Port advanced properties in device manager and change the maximum data rate to 4800 baud. That should sort it.

StrangeRover wrote:

The HSE and Vogue have it as standard, the Oxford leather option is connolly also...

The Armrests are PVC on the DSE - SE - and Base these have the cheaper leather...

Dunno where you get your info from but my Ascot HSE has PU leather and the interior is identical to that on the SE I used to have. The base models didn't have leather at all, they had cloth the same as in my ex-plod (which doesn't look as pretty but is far more comfortable). The Oxford almost certainly is Connolly but I'm not even sure about the Vogue, I'll have a proper look at my mates next time I'm round there.

I think only a few of the special editions used Connolly, the others are a mix of ordinary leather and PU. If you look carefully at the very edges of the side bolsters you can see the cloth backing under the PU leather coating.

Seems we're mostly a bunch of masochists. I ran Citroens for years, a Bijou, an ID19 Safari, two DS21 Pallas, a DS21 basic (that was converted to Pallas with the trim out of one of the others), a DS23 EFi a CX2200 and a CX2400 Estate. The D series were mechanically bulletproof, although the hydraulic suspension gave some interesting times. A rusted through pipe filled the boot with LHM fluid and a snapped pushrod on the rear caused the suspension piston to overtake me down the road and the motorcyclist I'd just overtaken to go bright green from the cloud of vapourised LHM. However, after finding that the CX rusted just as badly as the DSs did, I moved away from them to something completely different for a while.

I've never owned anything simple, always going for things that have a reputation for either unreliability, incredibly complex or being a pig to work on. I once told someone I owned a P38 and a Maserati Biturbo. He asked how I had sex, standing up in a hammock maybe?

It's a proper windscreen sealant (Polyurethane I think, definitely not silicon) and the only way of getting a screen out is with a cheese wire. I've never done it but seen it done and making sure you get all the way round and don't leave any parts still attached is the secret. Start with a Stanley knife to cut through it at a convenient point, thread the wire through and start.

Low fuel pressure? One lambda sensor not working just means one bank will run open loop fuelling but it will still run fine.