There's no connections at all between height sensors and ECU. Front right connects directly to pins 21, 23 and 24 (24 is common to all 4 sensors). 21 to 24 is each end of the pot while 23 is the wiper. Colours are pin 21, Orange/Purple, pin 23, Orange/Yellow and pin 24 Black/Pink. The 4 Black/Pink wires join at splice S116 but I've no idea where that lives I'm afraid.

You can do a straight swap and even use the original ECU. The GEMS ECU has to be told whether it is fuelling a 4.0 litre or 4.6 but the Thor uses the same one, it, presumably, just uses the lambda sensors to learn the fuelling.

The bell housings are the same as the blocks are externally identical. Torque converters are different between a GEMS 4.0 litre and a GEMS 4.6 too but not on the Thor so if you decided to use the GEMS box you'd probably need to use the Thor torque converter. I believe the gearboxes are different lengths if it's from an early GEMS, so sticking with the 4.0 litre Thor gearbox would keep it simple.

I did some work on a 4.0 GEMS that wasn't starting. Started to suspect the crank sensor and pulled that out. On a GEMS, due to the different torque converter, the spacer between the flex plate and crank is a different thickness, so the crank sensor has a spacer on the 4.6 and not the 4.0 litre. Found this one had a spacer but with the lower inspection plate off, could see that the CPS was positioned correctly. Turned out, after cleaning paint off the area of the block with the engine number on it that it was actually a 4.6 (with the 4.0 litre GEMS plenum) running through the original 4HP22 gearbox without any problems.

How long it takes is going to depend on the charger, so maybe your charger is dying?

The one I uploaded is the English version.

Just had to do that on the Masser callipers but they'd been rounded off in the past so I soaked them in Plus Gas then put the bleed nipples in a bench vice and unscrewed the calliper from the nipple.

BrianH wrote:

Still not got yours fixed I guess?

He's only a youngster with too much disposable income and likes wasting money......

It's just a later version of the OMVL XXI system with different firmware and a few extra features. There was the original OMVL Dream which was just called the 21, then it became the 21C, then 21N but by then they had gone over to Roman numerals making it the XXI-N and the the XXI-P for the Piro. When I first bought my Classic, with reducer in parallel, it would freeze within 300m on a cold day and the P38 the heater would drop to lukewarm at idle. On both I changed the plumbing to series which cured both problems as the coolant had to flow through both rather than having a choice of which way to go. On the GEMS it's much easier to get neat pipe runs doing it that way and there's also less joints to leak but IIRC it isn't as easy on a Thor.

Go wash your mouth out with soap and water, why on earth would anyone want to spend on petrol , even at the current low prices, when they can run on LPG at just over half the price?

I believe the P suffix means it is the Piro system, no doubt Simon will pop up sooner or later and confirm, but the installation is the same on all the OMVL systems. I've just uploaded the installation manual to my Google Drive here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QUYczdyovWh4kzWAX7igisoVIrnT_aUU. If you can, it's better, on a car with a full flow heating system, to plumb the reducer in series with the heater matrix with the flow going through the reducer first. It ensures you get full flow and also warms up quicker.

I don't suppose it could be a knackered engine mount allowing things to move when under load?

It's Gordon you need to thank for setting it up, but the rest of us for contributing. For months now RR.net has been propped up by Rob, me and no more than half a dozen others and it's got even more US biased than it ever used to be. This place is a bit different, think of it as a virtual pub, come in, sit down, ask a question or just join in a chat. The other bonus is we've got things like the summer camps being organised. Marty, who knows more about the electronics side of things than the guy that designed it, has a workshop that he rents. We've had a few weekends where a group have gone there and tackled the jobs that people either didn't feel confident in doing or their own or didn't have the tools to do them. We had a mass headlining session one time where we did 7 and a radius arm bush replacing weekend where at the same time a few heater core O rings were changed along with the odd blend motor. If everyone mucks in, it's easy and Morat is a dab hand with the barbecue to keep everyone fed.

Even though they made me a moderator and I've been pretty active over on the dark side recently, I'm getting more and more pissed off with some of the new members on there with their stupid questions and almost total lack of understanding. So I've invited a few of the more practical, UK based, members over to here. A couple have joined up already, so welcome to them. You never know, we may even get a couple more at the post apocalyptic summer camp.......

The reviews are right, I tried grey bumper paint and it did indeed dry brown and looked disgusting. I've done mine with bumper black along with the strips below the headlights and the bumpers too. In fact, I did the side rubbing strips and sill covers while they were off when the car went in to be resprayed about 4 years ago.

This was it just after it was done, about to set off for yet another trip to the south of France

If it's reading like any other NTC temperature sensor, a very low reading, often -40 degrees, means the sensor is open circuit and a very high reading means it is closed circuit. Maybe it defaults to 125 degrees when shorted?

FTDI just work, Prolific might work sometimes but are well known for dropping the connection when they feel like it. In Device manager, under Ports, you should be able to look at the driver manufacturer which should tell you. I've never actually tried to use any serial comms under Win 10 I'm afraid, I know they work faultlessly under Win XP but normally I just use a very old laptop with a serial port running Win 2000.

I agree that the 1/2" breaker bars flex so you're not applying all the force to the nuts. That's the advantage with the one I use, no flex at all.

What computer are you using, what operating system and are you using a USB adapter. If so, does it have the FTDI chipset or Prolific?

I've got a Clark impact wrench and it's useless. I just use one of these https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/13202-teng-tools-wheel-wrench-17x19mm-12/ and a 27mm socket.

Go into Comm Port advanced properties in device manager and change the maximum data rate to 4800 baud. That should sort it.

StrangeRover wrote:

The HSE and Vogue have it as standard, the Oxford leather option is connolly also...

The Armrests are PVC on the DSE - SE - and Base these have the cheaper leather...

Dunno where you get your info from but my Ascot HSE has PU leather and the interior is identical to that on the SE I used to have. The base models didn't have leather at all, they had cloth the same as in my ex-plod (which doesn't look as pretty but is far more comfortable). The Oxford almost certainly is Connolly but I'm not even sure about the Vogue, I'll have a proper look at my mates next time I'm round there.

I think only a few of the special editions used Connolly, the others are a mix of ordinary leather and PU. If you look carefully at the very edges of the side bolsters you can see the cloth backing under the PU leather coating.