Your car is a very late one. It is the last part of the VIN that is important, a VIN ending VAxxxxxx is a 97 car, WAxxxxxx is a 98, XAxxxxxx is 99, YAxxxxxx is 2000 but then they ran out of letters (as you will never find a VIN with a Z in it as it is too easy to mistake it for a 2) so they started using numbers instead, so 1Axxxxxx will be a 2001, car, 2Axxxxxx a 2002 and so on. The numbers just carry on in sequence so the very last 98 model is WA410481 and the first 99 car is XA410482. The earlier parts of the VIN signify various other things so decoding your VIN shows:
S Built in Europe
A Built in UK
L Built by Land Rover
LP it's a P38
A 108" wheelbase
M 5 door body
W 2.5 litre BMW 6 cylinder diesel engine
3 ZF 4 speed Auto / Right Hand Drive
1 2001 model
A Built at Solihull (as they all were)
452327 is the individual serial number of your car.

In fact, if you put your VIN into https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/check-lookup/SALLPAMW31A452327 it gives you the full build date and spec for your car (even the original UK registration number)

Once it's up to temperature, how hard is the top hose? It should be firm but not rock hard.

and wasn't the Vogue SE only made towards the end of production but it has the earlier dash with the cubby hole next to the clock rather than the nav unit which I thought was standard on all later cars?

This one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Vogue-SE-1-of-30-Rioja-Red-Tan-Leather-FSH-Collector-standard-P38/283691850470 is the oddest shade of Rioja Red I've ever seen, looks more like it's been dipped in Tomato soup!

This https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-RANGE-ROVER-RIOJA-RED-601-CAD-TOUCH-UP-PAINT-30ML-BODYSHOP-QUALITY/272976116874 is Rioja Red........

I always put a thin circular smear of Hylomar Blue around each port when I put them back on. The same goes for the plenum to upper inlet manifold joint too.

Or the oil has been overfilled and it's blowing it out of the breather into the intake?

If by a pack of wolves you mean by lots of suggestions, then you're right but you aren't getting any more help on.net either. We aren't psychic, you have it in front of you, we don't. From your video, you do not have a sync problem, there is nothing wrong with the battery, it just isn't firing, although you now say that it has run? To me that points to one of two things. Crank Position Sensor, although I can't see that just dying because it can. It can fail but if the connection to it has got water in it somehow, it needs unplugging, squirting with contact cleaner and plugging back in or, the fuel pump. You've been told, check for fuel pressure, have you done that?

One though has come to mind though. Was it running before it was shipped to you? How did it overheat if it won't run? You aren't giving anyone the full story but are buggering about with things that aren't relevant so all you are doing is pissing in the wind and we're just helping you to do just that.

On the dark side, he said it was a 98 so will be GEMS.

Been driving (and sleeping) for the last 24 hours, so not been on either forum. Currently in a French watermill so I've taken some photos of lots of water moving from one place to another to send to you Tom (Bolt) for your thoughts on how we can make it do something useful......

What do you have to pay in road tax over there? Rick has just moved and it seems he is going to have to sell his P38 (V8) due to the amount of road tax he is going to have to pay, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1589-sad-time

Is there a way round it?

Only if you click the link. If you select the image in Imgur, on the right side there's a number of links. You want the one marked Direct Link (with a link ending in .jpg), paste that into the box and it will appear in the post.

just edited it for you so the pictures appear.

You can't upload directly to the forum, you have to upload to somewhere else (most of us use Imgur.com) then post the Direct Link using the Insert Image button when writing your post.

If, as dave3d says, the M57 is just a development of the M51, I would have thought a diesel to diesel swap would be a lot simpler. But, as I know practically nothing about diesel engines, I may be totally wrong. My idea at some point (once I'm retired) is to put the BMW 4.4 litre V8 from an L322 into a Thor P38. As both engines run the same Bosch Motronic ECU there can't be too many differences, maybe.......

They won't usually give it over the phone, you have to go into a main dealer with your V5 and prrof of ID to show it is your car. They'll then give you a printout with the radio code, the EKA the lockset bar code, etc.

Where? The heater core temp sensor is the one clipped to the inlet pipe just before the O ring joint. I can't think of any way of getting to the actual matrix itself without major dismantling.

I'd be inclined to dump a load of the cleaning stuff down each of the pollen filter holes then poke the Prog button. That will close the recirculate flaps and put it on max heat with both blowers on flat out. Can't do any harm and may sort it. Extra heat may have caused something to start to cook but I can't see it really, it'll never get hot enough to start to melt any of the plastic. Sure you haven't got a dead mouse in there?

That Connects2 unit looks a bit odd to me, but it looks like it uses ISO back to back plugs to go in between the car loom and the head unit. Not sure how well it will work with the DSP system as that doesn't use all the speaker outputs so it will be trying to intercept something that isn't there. That's the same arrangement as something like a Parrot hands free kit uses but it only disconnects the signal from the head unit and injects audio from the hands free kit directly into the speaker feeds. Give it a go though and see how you get on.

The cheaper Grom that Bolt mentioned is probably this one https://gromaudio.co.uk/products/grom-aux3-aux-input-iphone-ipod-mp3-car-kit-plus-charging/rover-auxiliary-adapter-kit.html. Fairly simple, it just gives you a line in input instead of the CD changer that you can use with your phone, an mp3 player or whatever.

Although if the AC drain is blocked you usually get a puddle of water in the passenger footwell.

Your only option with the Alpine and DSP system is the Grom BT3 unit. According to their website (https://gromaudio.co.uk/products/bluetooth-hands-free-and-a2dp-car-kits/bmw-mini-rover-bluetooth-integration-kit-678.html#Description) it doesn't work with cars fitted with the sat nav although Mark (Orangebean) successfully fitted one to his Vogue SE. At the time we couldn't work out what difference the sat nav would make and suspect that as it is an add on unit it may not work with all cars fitted with sat nav. Not cheap but if you want to retain the original head unit but add Bluetooth and a Line In, it's a good option. You do lose the CD changer though.

Contact Clarion at http://www.clarion-service.co.uk/cs/Repair.html, they will refurbish the unit and remove the need for the code. While they are at it they will add a line in cable too. As long as the display is OK (as they no longer have stocks of replacement display modules) the turn around is very quick and cheap. The original Clarion gives very good sound quality and with the line in you can either use it to plug in an external source (or phone) or use it to plug in a Bluetooth module so you can connect anything. Unlike the later Alpine and DSP amp, the Clarion is repairable.

I've only once gapped the BPR6ES plugs down and it seemed to make no difference whatsoever so I've just left them as they are. If the ignition system is designed for plugs with a 1.1mm gap (as the original recommended Champions had), it shouldn't do any harm at all. I ran a set of the Iridium BPR6EiX for around 40,000 miles up until the engine came out to go to V8 Dev. I didn't have any to put back in and my local factor has to order them in for me but keeps the nickel ones on the shelf, so at £1.99 each, I've been using them ever since. At least with changing them every 10,000 miles, there's less chance of them seizing in.