The Ascot has it and I also find it annoying. I keep my mirrors set so I'm not looking at the sky and can not only see the road behind me but can also see the ground at the back of the car and the trailer when I've got one on. I suppose it might be different if the mirrors have flat glass in them but both mine are convex so I can see more in them anyway.
Much the same round here. The big Tesco Extra was ridiculously busy last time I went near there and I'm told there wasn't a lot left on the shelves but our village shop has just about everything you'd need. So with that and a local farm shop, haven't really had a problem. Got a full tank of LPG and just because I could, I've bunged some petrol in it too. Never seen the fuel gauge read over half a tank! Even though I officially retire on Tuesday, as a key worker I've got the official letter allowing me to go out, so I'll be hanging onto that just in case. In saying that, I've already been asked if I will come back as a contractor if needed. As a retirement piss up couldn't be organised due to the restrictions, we had a virtual party on Microsoft Teams last night, 23 people at the peak and it held up perfectly. Quite amusing seeing people all over the country drinking beer, cheaper too as it saved me having to buy a round!
Your average tealeaf isn't going to know the relevance of a Vogue SE badge or even how it is likely to differ from any other 20 year old Range Rover. With the difficulty that some owners have with the immobiliser and alarm system on a P38 even when they have the keys, I would think the chances of someone nicking one these days is pretty remote. They are too old to be nicked to be stripped for spares and too complicated to be nicked to ship over to Africa.
It's a 13 way connector with only 12 ways used. The non-memory mirrors only have a 6 way connector so won't be interchangeable. The motors are connected to pins 3 and 5 (Red and Yellow wires) for the left/right motor, pins 2 and 4 (Grey and Blue wires) for the up/down motor. There are also the two feedback potentiometers with the tracks in parallel connected to pins 10 and 13 (Black/Red and White wires) with the wipers connected to pin 11 (Orange wire) for the up/down feedback and pin 12 (Purple wire) for the left/right feedback. So if 12V is applied to pins 2 and 4 (one way round for up, the other way round for down) with an Ohm meter connected between pins 10 and 11, you should see a smoothly varying resistance as the motor drives the mirror up and down. If you do it could be that the track is disconnected at one end so try the same check between pins 11 and 13.
Chances are you won't see a smoothly varying resistance but one that jumps when it reaches the worn part of the track. It might be possible to rescue it for a while if you can get some contact cleaner into the pot but as it is designed to be exposed to the elements it is a sealed unit so it's unlikely you'll be able to get any cleaner inside it. The only thing you can buy is a complete mirror (at £200+), you can't buy individual components other than the glass.
If you do manage to get it working it'll be a first as I don't know of anyone that has ever managed to fix them. The mirrors are large enough that they can be adjusted so you can see what is behind you and still see the ground behind the car. Many people set their mirrors so the horizon is across the middle of the mirror but as you don't really need to see following aircraft, they can be tilted downwards so you still see what is behind you but see the ground too.
I've got a blower with knackered bearings but the controller is fine. I offered to send it to Bolt but he got the Citroen unit and fitted that (much cheaper and quicker than the postage from the UK). I can send it to you if you want although it might be easier to just get one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-BERLINGO-MPV-MK1-PEUGEOT-PARTNER-MK1-HEATER-BLOWER-FAN-RESISTOR-NEW/153186756109
From pictures the complete fan unit looks very similar although I wouldn't like to say they are identical without putting the two side by side.
The only thing you have to remember is that when the battery is reconnected it will always return to the state it was in when disconnected. So if it was locked and immobilised when the battery was disconnected (as will happen if the battery goes flat), it will return in that state. The only time you will then have a problem is if the microswitches in the drivers door latch are poorly. As the battery has been disconnected the fob will no longer be synced and, with faulty microswitches you won't be able to enter the EKA. However, if you are disconnecting the battery deliberately, then it is pretty likely the car will be unlocked so the immobiliser will be off and that is how it will be when you reconnect the battery. You shouldn't even need to sync the fob.
When the late Orangebean first went into hospital, he emailed me asking if I could send an idiots guide to removing the battery on his VSE as he didn't want to deal with any problems when he came back to it (which he, unfortunately, never did). As this was going to be done by a non-technical friend, it had to be easy to follow so it's worth reposting here for anyone else who wants to do the same.
- Unlock the car using the remote fob and the central locking should unlock all the doors.
- Pull the bonnet release and open the bonnet.
- Close the car doors and lock the car using the key in the door (NOT the remote) but leaving the bonnet open. That alarm will beep and the dash display will show 'Bonnet Open'. Don't worry about that.
- Disconnect and remove the battery (negative off first).
- Close the bonnet so the car is now fully closed up and locked
- Connect the battery to the charger on maintenance setting.
When the time comes to put the battery back on,
- Unlock with the key in the door, only the drivers door will unlock.
- Open the bonnet.
- Close the car door and lock the drivers door with the key.
- Refit the battery (when you connect it you will hear the central locking motors try to lock the already locked doors). Positive on first.
- Unlock the car with the remote fob - IF it doesn't unlock on the fob (which it should), unlock with the key. As long as the central locking unlocks all the doors, everything is fine.
Mirror going up when put into reverse or going down but not returning when you come out of reverse is caused by failed feedback pot in the mirror motor mechanism. Two options, spend a fortune on a replacement mirror or turn the feature off. To turn it off, ignition in position 2 but engine not running, select reverse and press and hold the memory button for two seconds. Then the mirrors won't move when you select reverse but they will stay where they are.
Not sure what you mean by the fusebox being on all the time. Both fuseboxes are going to be powered on some circuits.
If the average is climbing to higher than what it would do on petrol, the gas system is too rich so causing the petrol fuel trims to go negative (leaning it off). It wants to be showing the same as it shows on petrol for the same run. You did say when it ran on gas the economy was pretty dire so that would make sense. Any engine is most efficient at peak torque, hence the reason why you'll get more miles per gallon cruising at 75 mph than at 50 mph.
For oil pressure you could use something like this https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/stainless-steel-18-npt-adapter between engine block and pressure switch and fit a gauge sender in the extra hole. You are aware that you can adjust the reading on the temperature gauge aren't you? It is what would normally be termed a compressed scale gauge so only reads over a limited range. Mine is set to reach the red at 105 degrees. There's trimmer pots on the top of the instrument PCB that allow you to adjust the offset and slope for the speedo and tacho along with the reading for the fuel and temperature gauges.
Which BMW header tank do people use. I read a post from Dave3d on the dark side where he suggested a BMW E34 header tank but when I found that one (here http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E34-Sedan/Europe/M5_3.6-S38/browse/radiator/expansion_tank/) it appears from the picture to be a mirror image of ours.
They are the same as fitted to trucks but cut to shape. It's these https://www.truckware.co.uk/acatalog/Anti-Spray_Mudflaps_-_Manufactured_by_Clearpass.html
I suspect that's what the problem is too but as it's the rear washer replacing the pipework isn't that simple. But no doubt I'll have plenty of time to do it in the next few weeks.
If it has moved at all with the dash disconnected, then you will get an Odo error as it will no longer match the mileage stored in the BeCM. It needs a Nano plugging in to sync the two together again which will change the dash reading as the BeCM reading will be higher. That's one of the problems with swapping bits, you could have a low mileage car and switch a BeCM in from a higher mileage car and it will always use the highest reading.
The only use for the dash display is to give an indication of how well the LPG system is calibrated. As petrol consumption is calculated rather than measured, if the LPG system calibration is out it will cause the petrol ECU to adjust the fuel trims so alter the MPG reading on the dash. If it reads the same when on petrol as when on gas, the calibration is correct.
All I've done to mine today was drive for miles to find a farm shop with meat because the local supermarkets only have the scabby bits that I wouldn't give to the dog......
Looking at the diagram Relay 17 coil has ignition switched live on one side of the coil and is grounded through the pressure switch so shouldn't pull in without the ignition on. When it pulls in it supplies power to the pump from Maxi fuse 3. So it sounds like Relay 17 might be the one at fault. It isn't a standard relay either. Although a standard 4 pin relay will fit the socket it should be a dual contact high power relay so a standard one will burn out pretty quickly. The one you need will be black and the part number is PRC9566.
The dotted line shown in the ETM diagram just signifies that the motor moves the wiper. I've repaired the feedback circuit errors simply by a squirt of switch cleaner inside the pot and working it back and forth before putting the gears back. Any slight dead or dirty spot on the track will cause an error.
Just checked a spare I have here. Had to lift the board out of the housing slightly to get a probe onto the wiper pin but measuring between the wiper (the terminal lurking under the rounded side of the pot) and the terminal on the end of the track nearest the motor, I get between 26 Ohms with the pot fully one way and 10k at the far end of the travel. Don't forget that when in use it doesn't use all of the travel from one end to the other. Make sure you get the arrows on the gears lined up when you put it back together too.
Distribution flap usually feels a bit stiffer than you expect but the blend motors can generate quite a bit of torque. The motor itself drives a worm gear and is then further geared down so can move a lot more than you'd think from such a tiny little motor.
Yep, original gearbox and transfer case, rear prop, rear axle and wheel bearings although the rear diff has been replaced. Front needed new ball joints and it was easier for Marty to replace them on a spare axle he had so we could just swap the whole lot so it was changed but didn't really need it. If I try very hard (flooring the throttle in Sport at 20 mph) I can make the TC chain skip a tooth so that will need doing some time but other than that it's just routine maintenance and replacing anything as and when it needs it. I suspect the maintenance and regular servicing it got for the first 8 years and 200k of it's life while it was a police car has helped.
As long as the instruments are plugged in, it's fine. If the instruments are out and you turn the ignition of, you'll get odometer errors and the SRS light on when you put it back together. Everything else can be safely removed.
Only 7k short of 400k. I want to get it up to that before the MoT in August just to impress the tester.....
Not perfect, got a little bit of rust appearing on both rear wheel arches but that's about it really. Everything works too except for the rear washer which clogs up within a couple of days of pulling it out and flushing the pipe through for the umpteenth time.
The sunroof didn't work on the Ascot when I first got it. When I investigated I found the motor was missing so fitted a motor only to find it still didn't work due to broken bits in the mechanism. After spending the same 3 days fettling and filing the eBay kit of parts so they would fit and slide smoothly only to go with an almighty crack the second time I opened it, I went to Dave East Coast Range Rovers and paid £80 for a complete sunroof cassette and fitted that. It seriously isn't worth messing around with them.