I think you are right in how the code is entered and once you put the last number in, it should just burst into life. SE spec with no sub and, presumably no steering wheel controls, will be the low (no mid range speaker in the front doors) or mid line system (with mid range speakers in the doors) so no amps in the doors. If that is the case, then the plugs on the loom to go into the radio are standard 2 x 8 way ISO connectors and you can just plug any aftermarket head unit in. The '97 4.0SE I had was also fitted with the mid line system and a Sony head unit was a direct replacement.
Mine originally had the low line system (as plod didn't ask for a radio at all but it still came with speakers) but I swapped the door panels for ones with mid range speakers to turn it into a mid line.
Wearing the inner pad more than the outer would suggest the calliper pins are seized so instead of the calliper floating and applying the same pressure on both pads, it is only pushing against the inner pad where the piston is. Make sure the pins move in and out freely. I had one that was seized and sheared it off trying to get it to move so the next time I found the same problem, I drilled a 5mm hole in the calliper carrier opposite the pin, tapped it with an M6 thread and screwed a bolt in to push the pin out. Once cleaned and greased I just put a short M6 bolt in to plug the hole.
Put the suspension on high, jack it up a bit more (one jack on the front crossmember just in front of the radiator, the other one under the towbar) and put your blocks in, starting with the highest. Release the jacks, then poke the rocker on the dash for access height. so it drops down and sits on the blocks. Open the door to inhibit it. Go to the Heights tab in the software and click, Get Sensor Heights, make a note of the readings for each corner. Go to the Calibrate tab, click Read All and you'll see two sets of numbers. Top ones are what it is programmed to now and the bottom set of numbers will show the same numbers. Change the bottom set to what you have just noted down and click Write. If you then click on Read All again, you'll see that the top set, the programmed heights, will have changed to what you have just input in the bottom set.
Jack up, take your blocks out, fit the next set (Standard) and do the same thing for each height setting. You can only change one height at a time, you can't amend more than one set of numbers and then Write the whole lot. The software will try to always put the car back to standard height so make sure it is sitting on the blocks and the door is open before reading the existing heights.
Does he even still do them? I thought he had given up and gone away after too many people complained that he never replied to emails, never sent goods even though they'd been paid for, when he did they were crap, etc. I think the final nail in his coffin was when someone was chasing a fault for weeks and it couldn't have been the valve block as it was a refurbished one from the Doctor, only to find it was the valve block. Not seen him around for ages now.
Yes, the ports are numbered and the pipes originally would have had coloured sleeves on them. See here
Original rubber. Depending on what polys you get they are either too soft or wear out in a matter of months (and are too soft).
It's very simple and straightforward, there's two things you need to be aware of. When putting the crank back on the shaft, make sure the grub screw bears against the flat on the shaft and be careful when putting the new liner over the seal. It needs to go on at an angle and then twisted straight otherwise you will ruin the new seal. Yes, you can just undo the pipe, there won't be any pressure behind it because of the non return valves in the valve block.
I spent 2 days filing and fettling until it all seemed to move smoothly. Opened the sunroof to set it, working perfectly, pressed the button to close it and there was a healthy crack from above my head and it didn't move any more. Bought a complete unit from a specialist breaker (and did the headlining while it was out).
Welcome, you were one of the few, rapidly diminishing, sensible members on there. It's very sad in a way that it has declined as much as it has but it is entirely down to the owners. I was searching for some information on a minor issue on my partners Merc SLK and I found a forum called SLKWorld. Layout looked very familiar and it looked like the old admin had moved over there. Fill in your profile, tell us where you are, search for the answer, etc.but no useful information.
Sodium Silicate, it's the active ingredient in Steel Seal although that stuff costs about £50 a bottle. Buying the raw chemical is much cheaper https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sodium-silicate-Water-Glass-500-ml-Free-Post-in-UK/264718636840. Buy the chemical and Google how to use Steel Seal and you're all set.
When it gets very hot, like when it comes into contact with combustion gases, it forms a seal of solid glass. So if, as I suspect, you have a tiny leak between the outside of the liner and the bore in the block that it fits into, it will seal that leak so you won't be burning coolant or pressurising the cooling system. It's about the only stuff I'd consider using as unlike K-Seal, Radweld and all the other magic potions, it remains as a liquid in the cooling system except where it gets into contact with extreme heat so doesn't clog anything else up.
For only one key, go to your local Timsons or similar key cutting place and get a blade cut. The blank is a BMW one which they can order in if they don't have one in stock. If your fob isn't currently working then using that will be no different. Once the fob is working, should you ever lose the key you'll have a spare to get into the car and enter the EKA with.
Don't anyone mention Cummins. Dina works for them in the spares ordering department and has been working from home since the middle of March. Our dining room has become a Cummins office.....
Bolt wrote:
I think I can now remove, refresh and re install one of these in about 15 min.....Simple once you do it a few times inna row!
Sounds about right but one thing I haven't seen in any of the write ups on how to do it is one thing I always do. Before putting the crank back on I screw the grub screw in a little so it will only go on with the grub screw against the flat on the shaft. I know one owner who rebuilt his compressor but didn't so the grub screw was bearing on the round part of the shaft and not into the flat. Then went on holiday to Scotland so roughly 500 miles later, in the Scottish highlands, it dumped him down to the bumpstops. Took ages to work out what the problem was (by remote control over the phone) as the pump seemed to be running but not getting even warm. Taking it off and trying it showed it wasn't generating any pressure as the motor shaft was spinning but not turning the crank. Next problem was that he only had a few tools with him and a set of Allen keys wasn't in the toolbox.....
leolito wrote:
I have never understood the logic behind the P38 section on rr.net, and happy not knowing ...
More to the point, I've never understood the logic of the L405 forum even more. I mean, forums are for people to ask how to troubleshoot a problem or how to fix it once you've done the troubleshooting. If you've got an L405 and it goes wrong, you take it back to the dealer to have it done under warranty surely? If you don't understand how to turn on one of the, ever more complex, features, you read the bloody handbook!
On the other hand, I've done everything on mine, done it properly and now all I do is use it. Everything works (even the rear washer now). I've fitted a Direnza alloy high capacity radiator and a Hankook battery and everything else is standard. All I do to it these days is service it when it's due and if anything doesn't seem right, I deal with it. There's no need to do everything at once, do it a bit at a time and it doesn't seem such a daunting prospect when you can do one job, use it for a while, then do the next.
Apparently the Vanos unit isn't that reliable either and the breathers behind the engine turn to mush and clog up too. I did think a good mod would be to fit the 295 bhp, 4.4 litre BMW V8 into a later, Thor, P38. My logic was that as both the original and the later engine both use Bosch Motronic engine management, it shouldn't cause any problems with compatibility but I've since been told even they are so different it wouldn't work.
As you say, conclusive but counter intuitive. I can't explain it at all but the test results don't lie, the designer did get it right.
A reed valve stop plate is what the outlet valve has, a thicker solid plate above the reed to stop it going too far, but this isn't the case with the inlet reed. For the valve to close off fully it needs the reed to be flat against the body where the hole is but with the smaller leaf under it, it never can close off fully. If the smaller leaf was on the top it would act as a stop plate although, as you say, it would put all the bending strain at the point where it meets the smaller leaf, just the same as you would expect it to crack around the screw if there was nothing there.
Buggered if I know why it is there and what it is supposed to be doing but at the end of the day, if the reed breaks it's easy enough to make a new one from an old feeler gauge.
Aragorn wrote:
I will admit i saw a cheap 2 grand L322 on ebay recently and thought "hmm!" However i suspect realistically an L322 is liekly to be just as much of a money pit.
Near where I live is a place called Avenger 4x4 who are basically Range Rover breakers. Originally it was Defenders and Series that weren't worth reconditioning, then it was P38s and I called in there a few months ago as I needed something urgently and they'd got a couple of L322s sitting there. I mentioned that it looks like you can get a decent one for 3 grand and he burst out laughing, if you think a P38 is a money pit then you haven't even started. Apparently the L322 has far more 'little' jobs that will need doing and the main difference is the prices of parts are much higher. He was saying that he's bought L322s that look very tidy but when he's come to strip them hardly anything other than bodywork and trim is in such a state that he can't sell them as spares as they are no better than the bits people are looking to replace..
Isn't this the car you inherited so has an attachment beyond just you like it? I was in a similar situation about 5 years ago. My P38 hit 285k miles, although I had done the headgaskets it really needed a bit more. It was slightly pressurising the cooling system, not enough to spit the coolant out but enough to make the hoses hard, it was leaking oil from just about everywhere and the compression was down to no more than 110 psi. I considered selling it and putting some extra money to it and getting another but then thought about it. As police spec with an odd range of options, very high mileage and a very tired engine, it wouldn't fetch a lot. I had gone through it getting the EAS working properly, done the heater O rings, the blend motors, the door latches, etc so I knew what bits were good and what weren't. Rust isn't a worry in most cases (unless they've lived near the sea) as the chassis is damn good and the only parts of the bodywork that rust are the rear arches, bonnet front edge and, if you are really unlucky the base of the rear lower tailgate. I decided that rather than sell it and buy someone else's problems (they are selling a car for a reason after all) and having to start from scratch again, I'd put the money into mine. £2,100 to V8 Developments gave me an oil tight engine complete with top hat liners, big ends, mains, cam and followers, etc. Two years later, on the instruction of her indoors, it got a respray and East Coast Range Rovers supplied me with a complete (identical) interior, with seats and all interior plastics so I did a mix and match using the best bits from the two sets I had.
It's a case of the devil you know. You know what yours needs, but it doesn't need to all be done at once, whereas buying another you are into uncharted territory. Whining diffs are common but cheap enough for a recon unit from Ashcrofts. My rear has been replaced but even at just short of 400k miles, the rest of the transmission is still original and still working fine.