My local branch is one of the bigger ones so I was a bit surprised when I ordered them and the site said they weren't available for click and collect only delivery. When I spoke to them today they gave me a returns number and said I could take them into the local branch and swap them for the correct ones initially. Then the guy checked and my local branch has 1 in stock (which seems a bit odd as you fit them in pairs) so the courier will be collecting the wrong ones but no indication of when I'll get the right ones.

Too many people buying them to try out their culinary skills.

See https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1620-what-have-you-done-to-your-range-rover-today?page=1.0#pid23660 if that doesn't make sense......

You'll need to disconnect the rusty steel pipes on the top anyway to get the pump assembly out to change it so you may as well just swap the whole lot.

Boge original, although only the fronts seem to be available these days (£25 each from Island4x4) and there was a recent discussion on the best match for the rears but I don't remember what the verdict was. You could always risk £18 each on Britpart.......

Yes, got it and replied.

On the pollen filters, been on to Euro. The 507670038 is correct which cross references to a Crosland C40235P but the ones they sent were Crosland C40353P with the 507670038 number hand written on the boxes. The C40353P are for a Lexus. My local branch don't have any in stock so they've given me a returns number and DHL will be picking them up tomorrow. The correct ones will arrive sometime.......

tanis8472 wrote:

Just ordered 4 pollen filters for the rangy for £8.50 delivered.
CROSLAND item number 507670038 on eurocarparts

Did you get yours? I got an email saying they were currently out of stock but would send them as soon as they were back in stock. Arrived today and even though their website shows that 507670038 is the correct part number for a P38 pollen filter, they aren't. Nothing like.

BeCM change is pretty unlikely, although you could have a look at the MoT history and look for any sudden jumps in mileage to give a clue. The BeCM and instrument cluster both hold the mileage data so if only one is changed the mileage shown on the dash will jump to whichever has stored the highest. So if a BeCM from a higher mileage car was fitted then the mileage shown on the dash would jump to match that although if the mileage stored in a replacement BeCM is lower, there will be no change to what the dash tells you.

A cheaper option would be to get a key blade cut to match yours so you can use that to lock and start the car while you send your existing one off to be repaired. I'd still be inclined to change the door latch so you know the microswitches are all working properly so it doesn't put you back to where you were before Brian reset things.

Driven it, hit 390,000 a few minutes ago and got two trips to France in the next couple of months so with any luck I'll get it up to 400,000 before the next MoT in August.

Frank, postman just returned my spare receiver thanks, assume it made no difference? Your best bet now is to get a key blade cut so you can use that and get the fob and original blade sent off to the guy that refurbs them.

If you've got the Hankook, it can run the ABS pump, the EAS compressor, both blowers on flat out, all the lights and still crank the engine over without any problem......

If it wasn't in P or N, then the starter wouldn't turn. I had a problem on my old fusebox where connection of the fuel pump relay was intermittent. Firing a couple of times the dying would be a sign of the fuel pump not running. Not sure how cycling through the gears would affect it though.

Morat wrote:

Is there a separate Neutral Safety Switch circuit/switch to the one that supplies info to the dash?

No.

Sounds like a poorly fuel pump to me.

What have I done with mine today. Well, I used the ex-plod to take Dina to do the weekly shop, filled it up with LPG and took it back home again. Decided I needed to do something which would have involved moving the Ascot so tried that one. Hasn't been run for about 4 weeks but with a Hankook MF31 on it, doors unlocked on the fob, fired up first turn of the key, so moved it. A bit damp inside from condensation, so left it to run for a while to dry it out and noticed although the temperature gauge was up to normal, the heater was still blowing cold. Checked the coolant level and it took about 4 litres. Really must get around to replacing the leaking core plugs.......

What's it revving to? First time I drove a diesel I was surprised to see that it didn't change up until it hit around 3,000 rpm. So maybe it is normal?

On the V8, the GEMS engined version had a dipstick and tube, later Thor engined ones didn't (as there was nowhere for one due to the inlet manifold filling the hole). As far as I know, all the diesels had the dipstick but you'll need to wait for a diesel owner to confirm.

I think Bolt is closest in suggesting the CPS. They will fail when hot if they are going to fail. Often after a few minutes running and spraying with cold water will sometimes get them to work again for a few minutes. I also carry a spare as it is one of the few things that can stop the car dead in it's tracks. The lack of a Check Engine light may be a red herring, nobody actually looks at it to see if it comes on when they first turn the ignition on and a warning light that never comes on suggests there isn't a fault. As you have a Nanocom, you can use that to check all of the warning lights on the dash in case you have a blown bulb.

If you bought it, I assume you got the V4 software that covers other systems as well as the EAS. He's using the free V2 that only does EAS.

Don't understand the 4 or 5 pin block comment, what is it you are referring to? You'll have the OBD plug to 9 pin serial plug. That connects to the serial to USB adapter which goes into your computer. As long as you have the drivers for it loaded, then it will connect and show up in Device Manager as a Comm Port If you look at the Properties for that Comm port you should see what it has set itself as (COM port number, probably 3 or something like that). If it has set itself as something silly like 13, change it to the first available lowest number and note what it is. Then look into the Properties further and somewhere (maybe under Advanced) you should find the port properties. One of these will be for baud rate which will probably be set at 9600 baud, change that to 4800 baud. Then try to use the cable to connect to the EAS system. Ignition needs to be on (with or without engine running) and you need to set the Comm port that you previously noted in the software..

No Check Engine would suggest it has lost sync but in that case a GEMS doesn't crank, it does nothing. Unable to Start Communications with the BeCM on a Nanocom usually means it is in alarmed state (on a pre-V36 BeCM), is the red alarm LED on top of the dash flashing? Although again, if in an alarmed state, it shouldn't crank it should give you the Engine Immobilised message on the dash. An odd one.

The French system is the fine is on a sliding scale, 89 in an 80 is over 10% above the limit so the fine jumps up accordingly. There's none of this 10%+2 like here, I got flashed by a speed camera at 91 kph (according to my sat nav) in a 90 zone although I will admit I've not heard anything more (cue a letter from France dropping through the letterbox).....