Certainly sounds like one of the ABS sensors is playing up and assuming one wheel is locking. It could be a faulty sensor although I would expect that to bring on the warning lamp. It could be a sloppy wheel bearing so the sensor to reluctor ring gap is changing under braking?

It could indeed be getting in around the rear light. It's held in place with 3 or 4 small nuts on the end of some studs but has a seal around the inside of it to seal it against the bodywork. If it's been off in the past you may not have a full set of nuts (it's very easy to drop them when refitting) or the seal may have deteriorated so it no longer seals against the body panel.

Just edited it so a picture shows. There were two problems, you tried to link to a gallery rather than a single image and you didn't replace the HTTP:// that is automatically put in the box. Select the image you want to upload, on the RH side of the page you have a number of different link formats, you need to use the second one down, marked Direct Link (with a link ending in .jpg). Click on copy and it highlights it but, for some reason, doesn't copy it you need to right click and select copy. Then go back to your post, put the cursor where you want the picture, click the image box and paste the link into there, making sure you overwrite rather than append to the HTTP that is already in the box.

James, post your photos to Imgur or similar and then paste the IMGur direct link into the pop up box that appears when you click the insert picture icon.

No there's no fused supply to the headlights, in fact there's no fuses at all, it's all done by the MOSFETS in the BeCM. They supply the power and are overload protected so if there is a short to ground that would ordinarily blow a fuse, the MOSFET shuts down and turns the supply off to that circuit until the short is removed. Sloth's china china box, which I think should probably have read cheapo china box, is a box to switch the lights on automatically when it gets dark and will switch them on (by applying a ground to the main switch) even when the switch is in the OFF position. As it is powered from the Accessory feed from the ignition switch they will go off, assuming it is dark enough for it to have switched them on, as soon as the ignition is switched off. However, it won't affect the operation of the light switch so if you've switched them on, they will still stay on.

I toyed with the idea of doing something similar but using the output from the sun sensor that is on the top of the dash for the HEVAC but it only really detects sunlight so it would have turned the lights unless there was bright sunshine hitting it. In the UK for most of the time I may as well have just turned Daylight running light on......

Don't mess with anything, just leave it as Mr Land Rover intended. It's meant to be capable of going places lesser vehicles can't go. A lot of the modifications people do may be necessary on something like a Jeep but they aren't on a Land Rover.

Nobody has said to use High, always Low range. Fully agree with you on High being too high. As you come into Dover on the A2, there's quite a steep downhill with a 30 mph limit, big signs telling you to use engine braking and emergency run offs. To keep the speed below 30 with a 3 tonne trailer on the back, I have to drop it down to High 2nd rather than risk cooking the brakes. Amusing to watch the temperature gauge plummet down to the blue bit as the engine is spinning at about 3,000 rpm but not firing too.

I'll echo what the others have said. If you actually look at the gearchange, it shows you little pictures, Low 1st for going downhill, Low 3rd for going up. My preparation for going off road would be much the same as my preparation for doing a 3,000 mile round trip, change the oil and filter, check the coolant level and tyre pressures and set off. If you have Arnott Gen 2 air springs, it might be worth changing them first as they have a reputation for being not that reliable, Gen 3 give the advantage of more travel but only if you change the shocks to allow it, But you don't really need any more travel. Think about it, the lowest point of the car is going to be the diffs and no matter how high you lift the bodywork, the diffs are still going to be the lowest point. Dunlops were designed for the car and work the best. Put the suspension on High if travelling slowly but remember it will automatically drop to standard at over 35 mph to lower the centre of gravity unless you press the inhibit button.

It also depends on how extreme the terrain you are going to be driving on and how far you anticipate going. I would think what you refer to as trails we would call dirt tracks, so nothing to worry about there. You will be astounded at what a P38 is capable of, you'll run out of balls well before it runs out of ability. If you are going with a LR club, chances are it will be you towing others out rather than the other way round. When I did my course at Land Rover it had rained for most of the previous week and the first thing I saw when I got there was a huge, rutted, muddy hill. My thought at the time was maybe in a Defender on big, knobbly, off road tyres but half an hour later I was driving up it in a completely standard Discovery 2 on road tyres. The instructor told us that a Range Rover on air was even more capable than the Disco and that was pretty damned impressive.

Doesn't help you a lot. The mill pool is in the mucky looking bit below the house. As the shot dates back to 2017 and he didn't move in until November last year, you can't see the P38 parked outside or the new road that has been laid from the back lane to the barn (to the right of the house) that has now become a nice big workshop.

Bolt wrote:

OH! as for the French mill?? Let me know, I will fly over to help! Hydro is the BEST form of renewable energy, and a typical 1800's grain mill will give > you about 10kw/hr of energy, with a LOT of torque, so it will not stall! If the power happens during the winter, do the mill wheel generator, and run
electric heat. For FREE!

The mill was originally built in 1737 according to the stone set into the wall. The mill pond is still there but the small river/large stream that is supposed to feed it is dry most of the year. The hole where the paddle would have been is there, complete with big bits of stone with a hole in them for the axle to run through. The paddle would have been horizontal for some strange reason but we've no idea on the sort of design so any advice on that would be welcome. I'm up for it just for the hell of it and to prove it can be done, my mate isn't so sure..... All this is in a lower level which these days is used as a garage at one end and general storage at the other separated by these big bits of stone where the mill workings would have been so the actual house is on the first floor.

Do the lights stay on after the ignition is switched off? I know if you turn the ignition off first and then teh lights you get the headlight delay so you can find your front door but I always thought the lights would time out if you left them on. So I've just been outside and switched mine on without the ignition and, yes, they do come on and don't appear to turn off. You could fit a relay but don't forget that the switch doesn't switch power to the lights but applies a ground to the BeCM which supplies power to the lights. Or use your Nano to turn on Daylight Running Lamps then they will come on, and go off, as soon as the engine is started......

Bolt is your man to answer this one but would you need more than one? The average modern alternator can give 100A so to require more than that would need a pretty big inverter. You'd probably also need a battery to float across the alternator output as I can't see the alternator and/or inverter being that happy driven directly. I've got a kilowatt UPS that had two 12V jelly cells in it and have toyed with the idea of connecting it to a couple of car batteries in series and charging them from a 24V truck alternator. My mate in France has moved into an old water mill that has the mill race still there so we were thinking about making a paddle wheel and driving the alternator from that. Then discovered that the water level has dropped over the years and there's only any flow through it for a couple of months a year.

After Easter? Blimey, that's what I call advance planning.

Not tried to swap a lock so can't help on that but getting the door panel off is simple enough. You'll ideally need a flat trim tool but can get away with a wide screwdriver at a push. Pop the tweeter housing off (just pull) and there's a screw behind that to take out. Take out the screw inside the inside handle and remove the surround (needs a bit of a twist to slide out), then there's two screws under the armrest to come out. Start at the bottom, lever the trim panel away from the door, work your way around until you can just lift it off. You'll probably find that some of the trim clips stay in the door rather than staying on the door trim. Pull them out and fit them back to the trim before you try to put it back

No Chris, I'm afraid I didn't know. The only left hooker I work on is Mymysteri's diesel in France and it started life as a base model, has had the interior from a more upmarket one fitted but still doesn't have cruise control. Makes sense where it is though, complete mirror image to the RHD.

Tracy???? Damn me, I even sent you a radiator.......

But only if you have a laptop with a serial port. If you do, then the cheaper option is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-RANGE-ROVER-MKII-MK2-P38a-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-DIAGNOSTIC-FAULT-CODE-RESET/122229266441, although I've just noticed they do the same cable with a USB adapter here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/fits-Range-Rover-P38-Diagnostic-EAS-Plug-in-Cable/162281460879?hash=item25c8ba948f:g:a1cAAOSwFV9XzSws for the same price.

Problem with making a cable is getting hold of a plug to fit the OBD socket.

No, as long as you don't run it with bits missing, it'll be fine. Even if you do screw it up, get a cable from eBay (like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-FAULT-CODE-RESET-DIAGNOSTIC-TOOL-P38-Range-Rover-Mk-Il/222456546628) which will come with the free RSW software.

I had to change my username over there, but I've updated my signature earlier this evening to give some of them a clue. Never got into reel to reel but run a Technics SL1200Mk2, a NAD CD player and Pure Digital DAB tuner into a NAD 3240 feeding Dual speakers (better known for decks than speakers). We've also got a mini longhair Dachshund, well, at the moment we've got 6, the original one (a dogshow champion in 5 countries), a female one which we were offered and couldn't resist and 4, 10 week old results of having an experienced stud dog and a female...

Still trying to work out who you are though, c'mon, give us more of a clue.

I changed the complete sunroof cassette on the Ascot and the drain tubes were a sloppy fit on the bits they push on to. Small tie wraps held them on securely. You might have the same with the water running down the outside of the tube and dripping off at the lowest point (or dripping off everwhere but the wheel well is the only place you can see it).