Probably because it was converted in the days of the paper certificate rather than the register. If you have the certificate you can scan that and your V5 and it will be added to the register, if you haven't, tough.

I bet the injector nozzles are in the upper inlet manifold and not down near the petrol injectors like they should be. That'll give you poor throttle response.

Yup, that's all they ever fitted, whether it was suitable for the car or not. They were what became known as one of the done in a day merchants. Fit a system in a day, don't bother to set it up and when the customer complains that it is down on power/MIL keeps coming on/doesn't give the economy expected, he gets told that it is perfectly normal for an LPG conversion (which it isn't).

StrangeRover wrote:

it was installed by a place called Profess Autogas

Now there's a name that used to be slagged off regularly on the LPGForum. Not surprised it doesn't run right, probably never has.

Probably a good idea, it could cause you a bit of a problem when it tries to find it's way past the throttle butterfly......

A Thor will do when running a singlepoint, there's a hell of a lot of gas to explode. Much like when people tried to put a singlepoint on the Ford Explorer. 3 litre V6 engine with a plastic inlet manifold. One little misfire and the entire manifold became little bits of plastic spread around the engine bay, it would literally blow it to pieces.

If your MAF needs replacing, the mixture on petrol will be wrong, probably going into a fail safe rich mixture, which will make the mixture on LPG rich too.

I don't think it is that important, the car still ran perfectly OK with it completely missing. As it's part of the MAF housing, it can't be bought separately.

My tank takes 65 litres to fill and I get anything between 180 (around town) and 220 (long run) miles out of a full tank. You'll use more if you are constantly stopping and starting as you need to use a lot more fuel to get 2.3 tonnes of car moving than you do in keeping it moving.

As for singlepoint on a Thor, I wouldn't consider it. I'm running a singlepoint on a GEMS but the Thor has a much larger volume inlet manifold so a lot more gas/air mixture to go bang in the event of a misfire. I've had a couple of pops, mainly due to iffy ignition (one was caused by me not putting a plug lead back on properly) and the worst I've seen is the mesh grille in the MAF getting blown off and ending up in the air filter box. However, on a Thor, the bang will be bigger and the MAF is a lot more expensive so not worth risking it.

The part numbers don't supersede so they are definitely different. No sure how different but they are.

Is it only when idling or is is worse when accelerating but once the engine is spinning faster you won't hear it? It could be the start of a head gasket blowing out the side which won't give you any coolant in the oil, overheating or any of the other 'normal' symptoms. If the liner is slapping up and down, it will be pressurising the cooling system. Could it be the cat has broken up and the bits are ratting?

Not been to that one but never found anything even vaguely P38 related at any autojumble. Come to that, even at the Land Rover Owner show for the last couple of years I've been pushed to find anything P38 related, the odd bit here and there but very little.

Mines the same. On a cold start, ignition in position 2, showing Open Loop and STFT at 0%, start engine and it stays at 0% but after 20 seconds or so, it changes to closed loop and the STFM starts to climb until it reaches +38.75% with the lambda sensor output staying at 5.07 V. After another minute or so, the lambda voltage starts flipping between 5V and 0V and the STFM drops down towards zero.

I'll be going out in it shortly so I'll see if it is the same on a hot start. As long as yours shows Open Loop and 0% STFM at start then it is correct but if it is showing the +38.75% before it starts that is the source of the richness.

I've noticed that, some testers invent advisories on items that aren't actually part of the test. Damage to the rear arch would only be relevant if it has created a sharp edge that could shred a pedestrian, then it become dangerous condition see 6.2.1 here https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles.

Best one I've seen was Sump rusty.......

I'm still puzzled over the 39% STFT at start up. As far as I'm aware, as there is no output from the lambda sensors before the engine starts (and not for a few seconds after it has started) it should be running in open loop so the trims should be 0%. I'll have a look at the STFT on mine when starting it tomorrow if I remember (neighbours might object if I do it now.....).

How the hell did they pick up on a rear wheel bearing? You won't get slack in them as there's a half shaft attached to the back of it and they'd never be able to feel any roughness in rotation as it's attached to the diff.

You'll be OK, you've got a tame tester haven't you?

To remove the inner panel, lever off the tweeter housing, unplug it and put it to one side, remove the screw behind it, remove the screw holding the plastic surround that the interior door handle fits into and remove that (takes a bit of wiggling to get it at the right angle to come out), remove the two screws from under the armrest. Starting at the bottom, lever the door panel away from the door, then lift up and out. Disconnect the plug to the mid range speaker. You will find that some of the Christmas tree fittings stay in the door rather than coming off with the panel. Just lever them out of the door and fit them back on the panel before refitting. Rather than a screwdriver see if you can get a set of trim removal tools (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-Car-Removal-Tool-Radio-Set-Clip-Door-Body-Interior-Panel-Kit-Trim-Pry-Dash/312810575967) so you can get either side of the fitting.

I've never managed to break any of the plastic clips (and I've managed to break most things), you rotate them away from the rod and it pops out.

Not only does it tilt up and down, it pulls in and out too so you can adjust the reach (also makes getting the instrument panel out easier).

We have lawnmower racing in the UK, that looks quite fun http://www.blmra.co.uk/

So I arrange to be working in vaguely the right area so I can call in on Thursday. I'm armed with the Nanocom, my old Panasonic Toughbook with the EASUnlock software and cable, a multimeter and 8 short lengths of wire. Having thought about it, I was fairly convinced the problem was due to the disconnected lambda sensors. I’d tried to find the difference between the 5-0V Titania sensors with a black plug fitted to a 95-97 P38 and the 5-0V Titania sensors with a grey plug fitted to a 98 P38 and failed. As far as I was able to find, there was no difference other than the plug for some obscure reason. In fact, the lambdasensor.com website suggested the same universal 5-0V Titania sensor as a substitute for both. So I had made up 8 short lengths of wire with a male on one end and a female connector on the other. That way even though the plugs wouldn’t mate with each other I could connect the two together with 4 short lengths of wire. The EASUnlock software was because the car had previously had a bit of a list at the back and when I’d tried connecting to the EAS with the Nanocom, it had crashed the Nano??

Gave Mick a bell when I was on my way and he was already out there when I arrived bonnet up and all ready to go. Told him to start it up and it started, put the suspension on high and switched it off. Checked the GEMS ECU faults with the Nano to find lambda sensor errors on both banks and a long term fuel trim on both banks of -160% (which is a good trick if you can do it). In the Settings, as I’d since read that the country cannot be changed, it said Europe and 4.0 litre. Obviously as I’d tried to change it to Australia before it had ignored the change. My theory was that it was fuelling a 4.6 as a 4.0 litre so running lean and the lack of lambda sensors had also made it think it was running rich (0V being rich with 5V being lean on a GEMS with Titania sensors), so it had been weakening the mixture constantly until it was too weak to actually run. Leaving it for a while meant it thought it was cold, so it was richening the mixture until it warmed up when it became to lean to run. Crawled underneath (the reason for putting the suspension on high) and with Mick calling out the colour codes of which wire went to which (that I’d printed out before going), fitted my 8 short lengths of wire so it had lambda sensors. Reset the adaptive values to clear the long term trims and fired it up. This time it was running in closed loop with the lambda sensors flipping between 0V and 5V, the long term trims at 0% and the short term trims moving either side of 0%. Checked the alternator and found it putting out a healthy 14.1V so no problems there then. I suspect standing outside in the pouring rain before the engine was fitted had drowned the original alternator and taking it apart and drying it all out would be all it needs, but as they are pretty simple to change and Mick had the one from his old engine sitting there, swapping it seemed the easiest option.

We took it for a short test run, and I do mean short, like no more than 400 yards from Micks house, just in case it died again. Running nicely (despite the LH exhaust now blowing nicely from the leak at the manifold) and monitoring it on the Nano showed that everything was responding as it should. Got brave and took it for a longer drive, actually out of the estate and onto proper roads, with traffic that we could bring to a standstill if it did die, and it was still running nicely. Got back, checked the Nano and noted the only thing that wasn't quite right was the IACV was at 12 at idle (rather than the recommended 20-30) although we couldn't adjust it as most of Mick's tools were still at his mother's house. Tried the Nano on the EAS again, crashed it again. Tried EASUnlock and couldn’t get it to connect. Checked the timer relay to make sure it was still there and the bodging bastard that had owned it before hadn’t swapped it for a 4 pin relay and found it was but it still wouldn’t connect. Then realised it was actually sitting level at the back anyway so we didn’t need to get into the EAS.

Decided that it seemed to be OK and we could explain the previous problems so I set off to go home. Mick decided to risk a trip to the shops and was still in my rear view mirror when he turned off and he confirmed later that he made it to the shops and back without any problems. So all good up until now. The original plan had been for him to drive it up to me this weekend so we could reinstall the LPG system but at this stage neither of us thought attempting a 180 mile round trip would be a good idea. That will have to wait for another day. Much like pulling the old engine apart to see just how bad a state it really is in......