Hotel we used last time was Premier Inn, Swindon North, Broad Bush, Blunsdon, Swindon, SN26 8DJ. I haven't booked yet but will be doing.
I'm looking at the OEM ones as they are half the price of the genuine but appear the same (except for the bag they come in). Mines currently got orange poly bushes in it and they've been there for a good few miles so even OEM rubber ones should last, even with the mileage I do.
That's a cheap fix. You'd have been really pissed off if you'd paid for a new gearbox and fitting only to find it was exactly the same.
With Nanocom or similar. In BeCM, Settings, Alarm.
OK, so what bushes are people getting? These https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-radius-bush-anr3332g-p-3278.html or these https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-radius-bush-genuine-anr3332lr-p-7446.html. I'll get a pair of Lemforder Panhard rod bushes too. Who's staying Saturday night and which hotel (same one as last time, with the pub next door?).
Yes, it uses the ABS sensors to detect any wheel turning faster than the others and applies the brake to slow it down to the same speed as the slowest turning wheel. Only time I managed to fool it was by flooring the throttle on snow. Al 4 wheels lost traction and started spinning but as they were all spinning at the same speed, all it did was slither slowly down the camber of the road.
When they went over to 4 wheel traction control, which coincided with the change from GEMS to Thor. So anytime after mid 99. I think the brake modulator thing is also temperature dependant. 2 out of 10 where you are have suffered, a number in Australia have and some more in the States (but no idea of whereabouts) but I've not heard of it happening to anyone in Europe. They may be a bit brittle and break when taken out but that's plastic bits for you.
It's no different to the paranoia over being locked out and warnings never to use Superlock and numerous people wanting to know how to disable the system. I've always Superlocked mine every time I've locked it and it hasn't locked me out once in 8 years and 166,000 miles. But I did replace the door latch microswitches as soon as it started to suffer the dancing lock syndrome rather than ignore it and regard it as a P38 personality disorder.
The guy that bought OldShep's car called round to see me a few evenings ago. In the two years he's now owned it, he done nothing other than service it, refinish the wheels (as they were a little scruffy) and drive it. It had just been in for the MoT and had failed on the two little brake pipes at the back that always rust and less than half the bulbs working on his high level brake light. Other than that, and the drivers side heater blower having stopped working, it's done him well and he's still enjoying it. So it didn't really need a makeover.
You turn the key in the lock and then press the button on the fob until it flashes faster, release the fob button, then return the key to centre. Then repeat the other way. Sometimes, it won't sync if passive immobilisation is turned off, so you could try turning it back on, doing the sync, then turning it back on.
However, in saying that, one car I look after lost sync after the battery went flat and flatly refuses to re-sync. Passive immobilisation on or off it still won't sync. I've no idea why as it used to work fine and the owner just uses the key in the lock. Unfortunately she only has one working fob as the other one was lost and found after spending 10 months laying outside in the garden so is in a bit of a sorry state, prior to that both worked fine.
There shouldn't be any need for it, as you say, the oil seal keeps the oil in there, but I can't see it doing any harm.
Unlike when I owned a Classic, the welder doesn't see the light of day these days.....
WD40 was developed as a water dispersant but it was found that it also acts as a lubricant amongst other things. Basically it's a Jack of all trades, master of none in a can. Plus Gas is formulated specifically for freeing seized bolts but I must admit, ATF on it's own works pretty well too.
Clive603 wrote:
If you've not got grinding paste in the garage, I guess most folks under 45 haven't
When I was 11 years old my step father was reconditioning the Onan, flat twin, sidevalve engines that used to run the generators in the back of ice cream vans. He got so fed up with me sitting there saying, "what's that?", "what does this do?", "why are you doing that?" so he handed me a cylinder barrel with two valves in it, a tin of grinding paste and a rubber sucker on a stick with the words, "you've watched me do it often enough, get on with it". That was my introduction to taking engines apart and putting them back together and I've still got that same tin of grinding paste, double ended with coarse at one end and fine at the other. That was 52 years ago so it has a pretty good shelf life.....
Small Tupperware under the pipes as you disconnect them and an old towel to mop up the drips. You only lose the contents of the matrix so not that much at all.
It didn't blow it off, it was perished to hell, just like all the other pipes, and had a split in it. She emailed to say the pipe has arrived so will be getting stuck in to it tomorrow.
Binnacle is a five minute job to take out but, yes, Marty has done an LED conversion on his so is the man to speak to. I did O rings on my mates car last weekend in France, took a couple of hours but that did involve drilling the head off the screw and replacing it with an Allen bolt. One tip, in case the screw is tight, before you round it off trying to undo it, put some coarse grinding paste on the end of the screwdriver, it will grip much better with less chance of rounding the end and if you turn it to do it up first, that will often crack it free.
I ran a '93 LSE long wheelbase one for a couple of years. The LWB had a 4.2 litre version of the engine and it actually felt quite sprightly, in fact, when I first got the P38 I thought it pretty gutless in comparison until I realised it had twice the throttle travel so I wasn't giving it as much welly. Rust is the biggest killer, the worst places to repair are the area around the body mounts at the bottom of the bulkhead and the top of the bulkhead.
A mate bought a '95 softdash LSE that had been standing for 8 years. It actually looked pretty good considering and he bunged it in for an MoT to see what it would fail on. Other than a couple of ball joints and rusty brake pipes the only thing that seemed more serious was rust on the bulkhead near to where the brake modulator attached that allowed it to flex when the brake pedal was pressed. Took the scuttle panel off and found that the top of the bulkhead is a channel with drain holes at each end. These were blocked with dead leaves and assorted rubbish so water had sat in the channel and rusted it through along the full width of the car. We ended up going to Holland and getting a complete front bulkhead and getting that welded in place. He ended up doing a complete restoration on it which took over two years.
They are fun and I'd have another but only if I could buy one from somewhere where it wouldn't rust and the problem then is that rust free ones are damned expensive.
Today my car becomes an adult, 21 years old today
and having been a police Motorway patrol car for the first 8 years of it's life and owned by me since November 2010 and regularly been driven all around Europe, I think it's just about run in now......
That works out to 17,694.4 miles per year.
Ouch! That's going to need a fair bit skimming off it......
These https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pneumatic-straight-tube-to-tube-adaptors/0812106/ are what I've used on P38 air suspension, designed to take up to 20 bar so twice what the system runs at and I've not had one leak yet. 4mm version is https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pneumatic-straight-tube-to-tube-adaptors/0812099/ and tube is https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/air-hose/8435025/ for 6mm and https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/air-hose/0723927/ for 4mm. Unfortunately they only sell it in a 20m roll but I got some from a local hose specialist who would sell it by the metre.
According to Microcat (or LRcat anyway) there's 3 differnet variations, 94-97MY, 98MY and 99 onwards. Can't tell whether that is the same with diesel and petrol but the 4.6 petrol has the 4HP24 and the 4.0 litre and diesel has the 4HP22, so it looks like there are differences. Ashcrofts want £725 plus VAT for a reconditioned one which will come with a warranty and I suspect you be looking at something over £200 for a secondhand one of unknown condition so for the difference it would be worth spending the extra if you intend keeping the car. You'd still need to pay someone to change it or do it yourself whichever way you go. If it were me I'd go for the recon as I have no intention of ever selling my car and I want it to keep going with the trips I do (later this year I've got a trip to Holland and two trips to Latvia and probably a few to France as well).