I use the Euro one when in Europe but filllpg over here. My tablet tells me whenever it updates anything and just recently filllpg has been updated with prices every couple of days, there's been a couple of stations added too but only seen it delete one.
Series 1, episode 6, Mercedes X Class. If you have an Android device you should be able to get Dave using Mobdro.
The European version of the app from https://www.mylpg.eu/lpg-prices-across-europe now includes UK (so not sure if Dave has been sharing info or if they've nicked it) but that will allow you to put a route in and show stations on the route. Covers all of Europe (if you need it). There's an Android app on the Playstore (look for EU LPG) as well as Garmin and Tomtom POI files.
As soon as you disconnect it, all the other doors will lock so it might be better to unplug the door outstation. Don't think that will cause any problems.
There's an Android app that updates in real time or there's POI files for Garmin and Tomtom which need to be downloaded and loaded into the sat nav unit if you want the most up to date version. What have you actually fitted?
Ahh, thought everyone knew about that one. Nano does report the wrong sensor on the ABS but correct on live readings. I think it was corrected on the latest firmware update
But at least he's now learnt his lesson. Maybe Arnott should be put into the same category as Britpart? No offence to our transatlantic members but one thing I have learnt with importing cars from the US is that there seems to be a belief that anything that says Made in USA on it is going to be superior to original. That may be the case at times but we can all look at something and think,.'I wonder why they designed it like that, I could do better' without realising that many hours of R&D has gone into something and it's done the way it is for a reason.
You learnt one other thing though. If a Jeep managed to make it through the trails, a P38 will have no problem.......
I've had Pirelli Scorpions, Goodyear Wranglers and currently have a set of Vredstein Quadrac 5. Out of them all the Vredstein are by far and away the best in the wet and on snow (Goodyears on snow were dire). Very quiet on the road but probably wouldn't be so good as a dedicated off road tyre on mud. As Morat has said, it depends what you want to do but in saying that, I did an off road course at Land Rover and even on road tyres you'll bottle it long before the car does.
If you've got a decent battery and aren't running other things, like Sloth with his fridge, then there isn't a lot of point. Being ex-plod, my car still has the split charge relay and cables to the boot area where the aux battery used to live, but that was to run lots of lights on the roof, etc, the car battery runs the car, that aux runs the other stuff..
Nah mate, Kings Lynn, far more, errm, accessible. That's about all it has going for it......
The CSK was another of those very rare limited editions that command ridiculous prices when one comes up for sale. I found an extremely scruffy example parked up in a sidestreet in south London a couple of years ago and, knowing what it was and how much it would be worth if restored, almost left a note on it asking if the owner wanted to sell it. then realised that if he even had the slightest idea what it was worth, I wouldn't have had the spare cash for it anyway. I've often wondered if it is still about, the owner has scrapped it or if someone has got themselves a bargain.
No seen Storey on there for years. I did email him a couple of days ago with a question on using EASUnlock on a Classic and he replied within 24 hours so he is still about and just as helpful as always.
The dance doesn't run the compressor, it just drops 3 corners to match the lowest. Ordinarily the timer relay gets it's power from fuse 24 as soon as the ignition is switched on but it also has a source of power from fuse 29. Every few 4-6 hours it switches on, the ECU checks the heights of all 4 corners and lowers 3 to match the lowest. So if you are parked on the flat and have no leaks, all 4 corners will be where they were left and it does nothing. Even if it drops slightly due to a change in temperature, they will all drop by the same amount so it still won't do anything. It's only if you are parked on lumpy ground or have a leak when one corner will be below where it should be (relative to the others) so the others are dropped. Left for long enough, it will drop to the bumpstops or if you have a leak on one corner it will do the same.
Taking out the timer relay and fitting a 4 pin disables the timer waking up so it never checks the heights so never adjusts. So unless you always park on rough ground or have a leak, swapping the relay has no affect whatsoever. My Ascot is parked on the flat, was put in high when last used 3-4 weeks ago and is still sitting at high, it hasn't dropped at all. Where I park the ex-plod depends on where the other half has abandonded her Merc when she got home and one place results in one front wheel being on an upward slope (so that wheel is lower as far as the height sensor is concerned) so it drops the other 3 to the same number below standard.
Dave, not quite right. The delay relay supplies power to the ECU so if it isn't operating it won't do anything. The compressor gets it power from the maxi fuse or fuse 40. But, that power goes through the compressor relay which is energised by the ECU. You can swap the timer relay for a standard 4 pin but if you do you cann't connect diagnostics so you do need to keep the timer for when it faults.
Delay relay operates as soon as the ignition is turned on and supplies power to the EAS system ECU. With no power it isn't going to do anything but if you have the 4 height lights showing, then the ECU has power.
Hugh, where are you? There may be someone local with diagnostics if you haven't got the cable and your own set yet.
That's right. It's gone into hard fault so the ECU has shut the system down to protect it. It won't do anything until the fault is reset. That is all the EAS Kicker Lite does, resets the fault but doesn't give any indication of what the fault was. Complete waste of money at the best part of £80 compared with a cable and the EASUnlock software.
If the compressor runs with the jumper in place and you have continuity between orange and black wires, it isn't a problem with the compressor. Or at least, the compressor is working. If it is runing but not generating sufficient air, then the ECU will have told it to turn on but the pressure switch won't have turned it off within the time the ECU expects it to so it will see that as a fault. It has no way of knowing if the compressor is worn and not providing sufficient air or if the pressure switch has failed so it shuts down so you don't risk over-pressurising the system. Or it could be a completely different fault altogether, but without diagnostics you don't know what it is.
If you mean the ones on the back end of the arms, that bolt it to the chassis, they are M16 Nyloc, part number ANR3140
You don't need to have the engine running or even the ignition switched on. No, the relay doesn't switch a ground, the ground is there permanently on the black wire to the compressor. Power comes from one or other of the fuses and arrives at pin 3 on the relay (Relay 20), pin 2 has a permanent ground on it so a 12V supply from the ECU on pin 1 of the relay pulls it in and the power on pin 3 then goes out from pin 5 to the green wire on the compressor.making it run. So if you jumper pins 3 to 5, it will run unless it is dead. If it gets too hot, the thermal fuse opens which removes a ground to the ECU telling it that the compresor has overheated so it no longer energises the relay. If you have continuity between orange and black and the relay isn't being energised by the ECU, it is something else that has caused the ECU to inhibit any activity.
This is where you need to put the jumper
The ride heights are set according to the readings given by each height sensor. If you replace one then the chances of the reading being identical to the one you've taken off are pretty remote. It'll be similar but not the same. You need the software to be able to read and write the heights. I changed one of mine recently so before removing it checked the reading it was giving for the height that corner was sitting at which, in my case, was 130. With a jack under the body as well as the one under the axle so the two remained the same distance from each other, I then fitted the new sensor and checked the reading from that. This one was showing 135, so I added 5 to the stored settings on each height for that corner and wrote the new settings into the ECU. If I hadn't done that, it would have sat with that one corner permanently lower than the other three. Ideally it should be calibrated with a set of blocks but I know I've seen them somewhere since moving house but I'm buggered if I could find them. It's sitting level at all heights so it isn't far out but could do with being done properly when I find the blocks.