No not Alpine, Clarion will do the refurb treatment on the ones fitted to earlier cars but I don't know of anywhere that offer a similar service for the Alpine ones.
Just deleted your duplicate post so you don't end up with 2 threads running with answers in both but I'm 99% sure it won't work. The keys are coded to the BeCM and unless you were supplied with keys with the same code to match your vehicle, they aren't going to sync. If you have the data sheet for your car it will have a number for the lockset barcode stated on it. Over on the dark other side they reckon that there are no more NAS keys available so it seems highly likely you've been supplied with fobs that aren't coded to your car but are just random fobs. You may even have been supplied with 433 MHz rest of world fobs rather than 315 MHz NAS ones, in which case the receiver would need to be changed for a 433 MHz one as well. To get them to sync you need to find out what code is in the keys and then program that into your BeCM. However in order to do that, the BeCM needs to be unlocked. At the factory they were programmed and then locked so critical settings couldn't be changed by someone poking around with a Nanocom or similar. To unlock them, you need Marty who has the kit to read the code from a key, unlock a BeCM and program the same code into it.
and now you've said it is OK, something IS going to fail to make a liar out of you......
The foam comes attached to the condenser and causes the corner to rot away and all the refrigerant leaks out. It's the thing that everyone leaves out when they have to replace the condenser. The wire loop is to prevent the nut from falling off, a lack of panhard rod would make the handling decidedly iffy.
Not sure I understand. What are you testing and how?
That's the one. But test yours first in case the wiring has shorted and there is nothing wrong with the motor.
At risk of sounding like someone else, read the diagram. As I explained in the other thread, power from Fuse 15 goes to the tailgate motor, then to the pushbutton, then through the CDL switch in the door latch and the door outstation to ground. I suppose it is feasible that the CDL switch was burnt out with 20A+ going through it (they are rated at 0.1A and a 20A fuse would need about 40A for a very short time to blow). So, either your tailgate motor has gone short circuit (or the wiring to it has shorted together) so as soon as you pressed the pushbutton you were connecting the power directly to ground. With the wiring to the tailgate disconnected, you won't damage the replacement latch but you do need to investigate the motor. I think I have a spare one floating around if you get stuck.
If the fuse blew when you pressed the button, the tailgate latch motor has gone short circuit. The circuit is arranged in this order, power, fuse, motor, pushbutton, door latch switch. So a duff latch switch (which would normally fail open circuit anyway), won't cause the fuse to blow.
Presumably you got one of Marty's refurbed ones and not a full price new one?
1) Yes, the tailgate release takes it's ground connection from the drivers door latch. So if the drivers door is unlocked, it will open, if it isn't, it won't.
2) Fuse 15 supplies power to the tailgate latch release but it shouldn't take out the fuse, it is only the ground that goes through the latch, not the power.
3) Remove door trim, remove old latch, fit new latch, replace door trim. Nothing complicated, no need to disconnect the battery, just make sure the electrical connections are clean, tight and clipped away so they don't get caught in the window.
Cheapest I've found in London is the Sainsbury's at Becton by the A406 North Peculiar, A13 junction.
I know what they are supposed to do, I'm just surprised I hadn't noticed it when it first went, whenever that was. It must be down to the EAS doing such a good job as on anything else you'd notice it wallowing around all over the place. The only thing I can think of that was similar was many years ago I had a Citroen DS with the hydropneumatic suspension and drove around with a totally flat rear tyre. I didn't notice anythig until I reversed into a parking space and could hear a strange noise.
As I've got a 1,800 mile round trip with a big trailer next weekend, figured I'd give the car a 10,000 mile service (it was only 300 miles short of one anyway) today. While underneath draining the oil and greasing the propshaft UJs, I noticed this
Not noticed it before and no idea how long it has been like it, although it must have been OK at the last MoT, although that was in August last year. A quick call to my local motor factors who seem to stock just about everything, and picked up a new one half an hour later (not too bad at £16). The car feels slightly different on the 160 degree adverse camber corner into the village but other than that, it doesn't drive any differently. So why do we have anti-roll bars in the first place?
BP withdrew LPG from their forecourts, or at least the ones they own (the ones with M&S and/or Wild Bean Cafe) rather than the BP signed ones that are independently owned, some of whom still have LPG, whereas Shell are increasing the numbers with their tie up with Calor and promoting the Autogas brand. Morrisons and Asda commonly have LPG (and are usually cheap), but Tesco no longer do it and a lot of Sainsburys withdrew it too. If I can fill up at my local Flogas depot at 57p per litre, I will but otherwise I fill up wherever is most convenient. 70p a litre is still a lot cheaper than £1.25 a litre for petrol.
Not sure there is an increase in it, although it has had some very positive feedback recently (Sadiq Khan, the mayor of London, is suggesting that taxis are converted to LPG to improve the air quality in London) but the increased use of direct injection engines (which are much harder, if not impossible, to convert) hasn't helped. The biggest problem is that DVLA only show something like 150,000 converted vehicles so it is considered a minority fuel yet of the 5 LPG converted cars I've owned, only 2 have had LPG shown on the V5. So the actual number is likely to be nearer 500,000. A much bigger market that the filling stations think.
1) Because the LPG system (assuming a multipoint, a singlepoint is stand alone) slaves off the petrol system which needs cold running enrichment (choke) but LPG doesn't so if it switched immediately it would be running too rich until warmed up.
2) if you mean a fuel map, not exactly. The petrol ECU still controls the fuelling based on the normal sensors (Lambda, MAF, TPS) and the LPG system slaves off it, but there is correction programmed into the LPG ECU. So, if at a particular load and revs the petrol systems needs the injectors to open for 8mS, for the same load and revs the LPG injectors may need to be open for 11mS. The LPG controller intercepts the pulses to the petrol injectors and is programmed to add 3mS to the injector pulses at that load and revs. The amount it needs to add will vary at different load and revs so the LPG controller contains it's own correction map.
3) Best I've managed on a run without a trailer is 231 miles on a 65 litre fill. Worst was 145 miles on the same 65 litres with a sodding great, fully loaded, trailer on the back.
I'm not on FB, I want a picture!!!
Numbers appear to be sequential with the year letter changing each year. So if you can find out what the VIN of the very first one produced was, yours will just be your VIN number minus the number of the first.
So it does look like someone made a 4.6 but using a block that had originally been made for a 4.0 litre Disco. That probably explains why the engine number has been mullered.
Slump moulding or vacuum forming ABS would be other options if it can be done cheaply enough. As for the cost of doing them in GRP, I could buy enough gel coat, resin, mat and hardener to make at least 10 sets for no more than £50. On top of the cost of a pair of Britpart ones to make the moulds from (with a bit of fettling to make them fit if everything else from Britpart is anything to go by), I'd be looking at a spend in the region of £200. That would make them work out at around £20 a pair to produce the first batch, after that they would get really cheap.
The moulds would obviously need to be bonded to a heavy base to stop them walking around the bench while stippling. The moulds I made for the sideskirts may have been about 4 feet long but only 6 inches wide, so I bonded heavy wood bases to them to make them sit flat on the bench. Not sure how similar they are to the ones on a Classic but my LSE didn't have mud shields on either rear disc as they had presumably rotted away years ago so that would be a further set of potential customers). There could be a nice little earner there once I retire in 13 months, 4 days time (not that I'm counting of course).