Dave, not quite right. The delay relay supplies power to the ECU so if it isn't operating it won't do anything. The compressor gets it power from the maxi fuse or fuse 40. But, that power goes through the compressor relay which is energised by the ECU. You can swap the timer relay for a standard 4 pin but if you do you cann't connect diagnostics so you do need to keep the timer for when it faults.

Delay relay operates as soon as the ignition is turned on and supplies power to the EAS system ECU. With no power it isn't going to do anything but if you have the 4 height lights showing, then the ECU has power.

Hugh, where are you? There may be someone local with diagnostics if you haven't got the cable and your own set yet.

That's right. It's gone into hard fault so the ECU has shut the system down to protect it. It won't do anything until the fault is reset. That is all the EAS Kicker Lite does, resets the fault but doesn't give any indication of what the fault was. Complete waste of money at the best part of £80 compared with a cable and the EASUnlock software.

If the compressor runs with the jumper in place and you have continuity between orange and black wires, it isn't a problem with the compressor. Or at least, the compressor is working. If it is runing but not generating sufficient air, then the ECU will have told it to turn on but the pressure switch won't have turned it off within the time the ECU expects it to so it will see that as a fault. It has no way of knowing if the compressor is worn and not providing sufficient air or if the pressure switch has failed so it shuts down so you don't risk over-pressurising the system. Or it could be a completely different fault altogether, but without diagnostics you don't know what it is.

If you mean the ones on the back end of the arms, that bolt it to the chassis, they are M16 Nyloc, part number ANR3140

You don't need to have the engine running or even the ignition switched on. No, the relay doesn't switch a ground, the ground is there permanently on the black wire to the compressor. Power comes from one or other of the fuses and arrives at pin 3 on the relay (Relay 20), pin 2 has a permanent ground on it so a 12V supply from the ECU on pin 1 of the relay pulls it in and the power on pin 3 then goes out from pin 5 to the green wire on the compressor.making it run. So if you jumper pins 3 to 5, it will run unless it is dead. If it gets too hot, the thermal fuse opens which removes a ground to the ECU telling it that the compresor has overheated so it no longer energises the relay. If you have continuity between orange and black and the relay isn't being energised by the ECU, it is something else that has caused the ECU to inhibit any activity.

This is where you need to put the jumper

The ride heights are set according to the readings given by each height sensor. If you replace one then the chances of the reading being identical to the one you've taken off are pretty remote. It'll be similar but not the same. You need the software to be able to read and write the heights. I changed one of mine recently so before removing it checked the reading it was giving for the height that corner was sitting at which, in my case, was 130. With a jack under the body as well as the one under the axle so the two remained the same distance from each other, I then fitted the new sensor and checked the reading from that. This one was showing 135, so I added 5 to the stored settings on each height for that corner and wrote the new settings into the ECU. If I hadn't done that, it would have sat with that one corner permanently lower than the other three. Ideally it should be calibrated with a set of blocks but I know I've seen them somewhere since moving house but I'm buggered if I could find them. It's sitting level at all heights so it isn't far out but could do with being done properly when I find the blocks.

No idea, never having worked on an NAS spec P38 Ive never actually seen the shift solenoid. I once found a picture from Microcat showing the difference between NAS andf ROW but damned if I can find it now. I think I even posted it on the other side but as search no longer works, chances of finding it again are pretty remote, although I did manage to find this https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/shift-interlock-removal-with-pictures.52362/#post-418826

More likely a failing brake light switch if it is telling you that the brake light bulb has blown. There's two switches in there dealing with the brake lights, shift interlock and a feed to the ABS system too. However, only NAS cars have the shift interlock, none of the others do, they rely on you having to lift the front of the lever up to allow it to move. When I suggested removing it completely on the other side to convert a car to rest of world spec, RRTH told me I was being totally irresponsible as it would be easy for dogs, kids, etc left in the car, to knock it into gear.

"All places have now been booked for this event."

Bugger. Will still probably come over for a look though as it isn't far.

I think I'd walk that one, currently 382,092......

If no joy with 12V on the green wire and ground on the black, the compressor has died. If it runs but not by jumpering in place of the relay, then check Maxi fuse 2 if a pre 99 car (GEMS) or fuse 40 is 99 or later (Thor).

Robbo1 wrote:

I will be at the Kings Lynn Heritage day on Sunday week with the Range Rover. This is another favourite for us been going since it started.

Where and when? KL isn't far for me and it'll give me an excuse to wash the car (still wouldn't expect to win anything though....).

What the software can do is here http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/p38a-eas-unlock-videos. Despite being free it is actually very good and if your EAS system has gone into hard fault, you need to be able to reset it before it will start to work again. If you've got no leaks, then the most likely cause of a problem is an iffy height sensor, but you still need to identify which one.

You need diagnostics, either a Nano or similar or the free RSW software and lead (like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-RANGE-ROVER-P38a-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-FAULT-CODE-RESET-DIAGNOSTIC-PC/122111172488). Going up to high signifies a soft fault (which would have cleared if you had switched off and restarted), dropping to the floor shows it has hard faulted and has to be reset.

Without knowing why it has shut down you won't be able to faultfind it. If the system detects a fault it shuts down to protect itself but you need to identify the fault. The thermal switch is in the back of the compressor, unplug it and check for continuity between the orange and black wires although I very much doubt that is the fault. The thermal switch only kicks in if the compressor overheats which it won't do unless you have another fault, either a worn out compressor or leak. It is supposed to reset when it cools down but they tend to saty open circuit is they have operated lots of times. Even if you jump the compressor to build pressure, the ECU has gone into fault mode so won't try to do anything until reset. Did you have any other warning signs? Dropping to the bumpstops overnight or taking a long time to rise up to normal?

I bought a Britpart one as it was cheap, in stock and came with a 2 year warranty so I figured changing it every 18 months or so wasn't such a big deal. Although the holes lined up, the bottom ones were too small so had to be drilled out.

Clive603 wrote:

Running General Grabber HTS tyres at their recommended 35 psi all round.

Recommeded by who? Pressures should be 28 psi in the front and 38 psi in the rear, although I tend to run a couple of psi higher all round, particularly when doing a long distance towing job.

Lpgc wrote:

Am I right in saying that one such firm's re-design of the RV8 which was a 4.6L version was adopted by LR for the now familiar OEM 4.6 ?

There was a stepping stone which was codenamed the Iceberg engine. Perkins did some development work for LR to see if they could produce a diesel version of the V8. The bottom end was strengthened with cross bolted main bearings and various other mods done including increasing the stroke. Although the diesel version didn't happen, this resulted in the 4.2 litre version that was fitted into the LWB variant of the Classic. The 4.0 and 4.6 litre versions fitted into the P38 benefit from the stronger bottom end but the 4.0 litre shares the same bore and stroke as the 3.9 in the Classic (which explains why they are both 3950 cc) while the 4.6 uses the same bore size but with a longer stroke again to give the extra capacity.

Getting back on track. If the core plugs on the rear of the engine block are leaking, they lurk behind the flywheel so it is an engine out (or at least move it forward to separate it from the gearbox) or gearbox out job. No easy option and if one is leaking, usually caused by the cooling system having been filled with plain water so they rust through from the inside, then the others will need doing too. I've got the same problem on the Ascot but the ones I can see leaking are a couple on the sides of the block (including one hiding behind the engine mount), so they can be done with the engine in place. But if they are leaing, the ones on the back aren't going to be far behind so will need changing too. I've got the core plugs, the Loctite to coat them in when the new ones go in, the engine crane to lift it and move it forward away from the gearbox, all I'm short of now is the time to do it!

and cut holes in the front wings for Sport vents that don't do anything......

V8 Developments will do everything RPi will for lower prices and without having to put up with the bullshit. But why only 5.2? What's wrong with a 5.4 http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/long_engines/5.4_litre/dominator/index.shtml

It gets it's ground through the RH front door latch but all that means is if the front door is locked it has no ground so can't be opened. If it is unlocked then the ground will be there and it will work. Presumably you can open and close it properly? If you can then it is likely the switch in the latch in the lower tailgate is either broke or the latch itself has worked loose so it isn't closing fully.

There's pots on the back of the instrument cluster that allow you to alter what the rev counter says. One is for offset and the other for slope, so you set the offset so it reads correctly at idle, then the slope to get it right further up the rev range. The speedo is the same, how do you think IRS managed to calibrate mine for plod? If you are prepared to spend a bit of time tweaking, you can get them both spot on.