I still think taking a mould and making them in fibre glass would be the easiest and cheapest option, admittedly the most messy but easy and cheap none the less. I'd just need a pair of brand new ones to start with, slobber with 3 or 4 coats of wax polish, paint on a layer release agent (PVA), a layer of gel coat (coloured resin), then 3 or 4 layers of resin and chopped strand mat. Trim the edges while the resin is still plastic and pop off once hard. Then you'll have a mould to repeat the process with as many times as you like. Wax polish, release agent, gel coat, a few layers, trim the edges and pop out a nice new shield. It would just need the metal strip adding although in my experience getting the screws out that hold the metal strip to the hub without shearing the heads off is the bit that causes the most grief.
I had the same with the ABS lamp. A new tester at my local station drove it very slowly onto the ramp then came out and told me he couldn't test it as the ABS lamp was on. Before I had chance to say anything, his boss told him to drive it around the yard and not to drive like a girl in future.
Rotary coupler you mean.......
Yes, it may seem to be a pretty insignificant part but airbag fault and no horn are both MoT failures so it is fairly important (or you take the bulb out of the SRS warning lamp and wire a big pushbutton on the dash to operate the horn....).
Clive603 wrote:
Gilbertd wrote:
If someone was to buy a pair of new ones it would be dead easy to take a mould off them and knock them up in fibreglass. They don't need to be steel after all, they only keep the crap off the inside of the discs.
Yeess. But total Yuck job. Especially if you aren't geared up to handle the horrible stuff.
It isn't that bad. I had a pair of moulds that I made to produce some sideskirts for a car where the originals were over 500 notes a time. Lent the moulds to someone who wanted to produce a pair in carbon fibre and never got them back but still got a half full 25 litre drum of resin and the organic peroxide hardener (although I suspect both are well past their sell by date by now). As long as you've got decent latex gloves and somewhere well ventilated to do it, it's not that bad a job. Admittedly, my garage did have an area with about an inch less headroom than everywhere else where the drips of resin had formed a nice coating on the floor. If they were made so the gelcoat side was visible from under the car, they'd look pretty decent too.
Sloth wrote:
I've just bought CAT101160 and CAT101170 - fitted perfectly. And very cheap. I should have a twin exhaust - though one half is missing, so I only have the passenger side currently, where an early P38 with single exhaust would have been drivers side only.
Wrong bit, those are the mudflaps not the mud shields that go on the back of the brake disc.
I suspect someone has used Loctite on it at some time and it just isn't going to come off without getting brutal. Why do you need to take it off anyway?
Not that it really matters as when Ray top hats a block the faces of the block are skimmed which removes the engine number. He stamps the engine number back onto it so if you ask he'll stamp it with the number that matches the V5. The other difference is the earlier engines had the number stamped in whereas later ones had it dot etched as in the picture Rutland Rover posted of his.
I can confirm a couple of those, 42D is high compression 4.0 litre GEMS and 46D is high compression 4.6 GEMS. These later changed to 59D and 60D respectively for the Thor variant. If 56 is 4.0 litre Disco, then it might be worth checking the stroke on the engine. Although as someone has tried to disguise the number then it may well be that the block started off as a 4.0 litre Disco motor that has since had a few bits changed. A change of crank, rods and pistons will turn a 4.0 litre into a 4.6 and the Disco used the Thor motor (although why there should be a different code for a 4.0 litre Thor fitted to a P38 and a 4.0 litre Thor fitted to a Disco is anyone's guess). From the honing marks on the bores it looks like it hasn't been run that much since someone had it apart.
No10Chris has an odd engine number on the one in his car. That was a Land Rover replacement fitted a few years ago. His might also be the same format.
JMCLuimni wrote:
Don’t cut the steering wheel.....
Why not? It's only on his old Jeep, not anything important........
If someone was to buy a pair of new ones it would be dead easy to take a mould off them and knock them up in fibreglass. They don't need to be steel after all, they only keep the crap off the inside of the discs.
Depends what spec you want, see http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/short_engines/index.shtml and http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/long_engines/index.shtml
That engine number is completely the wrong format, it should start 60D. What engine number is shown on the V5? I'm wondering if it is one of the mythical Coscast blocks RPi were selling at some eye watering price? They didn't fit top hat liners but did put an O ring around the liner which would explain why it has shifted (and, as you can hear it tapping, is moving with the piston) but isn't letting coolant around the edge so steam cleaning the combustion chamber and pressurising the cooling system.
Doh, sorry my fault, there's actually lots of posts. i deleted some spam without hiding it first which results in the heading saying there's no posts.
Don't see any reason why not. You can run into problems if you fit lower impedance speakers than an amp was designed for but not higher. It can cause a slightly lower level from them but as the JBL speakers are more efficient then there is unlikely to be any noticeable difference.
Yes, a straight swap, the difference is impedance isn't noticable. The original ones are held in with bent tags around the outside whereas the JBL ones have holes for screws. I just drilled holes in the plastic mounts to fit them.
Speaker technology has moved on quite a bit in the last 20 years so while the originals may have been decent in their day they aren't really that good by today's standards. So buying secondhand may be a bit better than what you currently have but not by much. On the advice of a mate who's been a sound engineer for years, I replaced mine with a pair of JBL 600c units and suddenly discovered bass.
StrangeRover wrote:
E10 is a new "petrol" they'll be bringing out in 2020..
Apparently it's bio-ethanol fuel..
Petrol has had bio-ethanol added in small quantities for some time. In France the only 'proper' petrol you can buy is the 98 Octane stuff, the 95 Octane is now E85, with 15% ethanol. It eats some types of the materials used for fuel hoses and seals on earlier cars so worst case you'd need to replace any flexi hoses and seals.
If it's now running on all cylinders on LPG and has lost the original problem after being run on petrol for a while, it does sound like the trims got themselves a bit cocked up. If it was due to one dead lambda sensor that should sort it.
Although it says 1994-2002 it shows the correct part number and says from VIN XA or later so it will be the right one. Assuming it is genuine Bosch and not Chinese knock off, it should be fine.