Relay 6 controls the Right blower motor, passenger side in your case, so it is the Left hand one that has died. Simple enough to confirm if you pull the pollen filters out you can see the blowers down the hole and see which one is moving and which one isn't. With only one blower working you will get much less air, less than half, because normally both blowers are shoving air towards the heater box and it has nowhere else to go other than through it. With one blower not working, some air will go though the heater box while the rest will just go out via the non-working blower. If you poke the recirculation button, that will close flaps between the pollen filters and the blowers and at least keep the air in the car.

You've got the opposite to what I had at the weekend. One blower stopped (due to a dead spot on the commutator), the Hevac detected the fault so cut the power to both blowers. Not fun on the first decently hot day we've had this year. Fortunately, I had a couple of spare blowers kicking around so changed the dodgy one and all back to normal.

RutlandRover wrote:

Would using one channel to power three speakers not reduce the amount of power each speaker gets meaning you lose overall volume and/or quality from each speaker? IE: if you split a 45w (the power my Android headunit claims to output per channel, unsure if that's peak or RMS) channel to three speakers wouldn't you then only have 3x 15w speakers? This is the assumption I made that led me to wanting power to each of the speakers.

No, because you are spreading the power between the speakers so the amount of air they can shift will actually be greater than having one speaker, giving more volume not less. The output of the amp is the full range of frequencies but the largest speaker can't move fast enough to reproduce the higher frequencies so they get lost. Equally the tweeter only has a 1" cone so works beautifully with the high frequencies but can't cope with the bass. The midrange then deals with the bits in between. Now you can just rely on the fact that the speakers won't respond to frequencies they can't really handle but it can muddy the sound as they will still try to, so the high frequencies will damp the cone in the bass speaker. This is where a crossover comes in. It is a set of filters so you feed it with the full range and it splits it into the three ranges, bass, mid and high which are then fed to the individual speakers. The non DSP mid line system (fed directly from the head unit) uses capacitors in series with the midrange and tweeters to block the bass frequencies while the high line system with the separate door amps uses a single amp but with a built in crossover so the bass is fed to the bass speaker and the rest is fed to the midrange and tweeter with a capacitor in series with the tweeter to keep the lower frequencies out. So what you have is 4 amps, one for each channel (FL, FR, RL and RR) with inbuilt filters to split the output between the different speakers.

The DSP system does much the same only it is controlled by a data line (so while it is only fed with a 2 channel stereo input, the data tells it how much to send to the front and how much to send to the rear) and can also alter the sound to give different effects by putting minute delays in outputs to make the soundstage move and add preset equaliser settings.

For the sub you just have one further amp, sometimes mono to drive a single speaker, other times stereo to drive a pair (or a stereo input that is then combined to drive one speaker). Looking at example 2.2 that Clive linked to, they are using the original head unit, passing it through an attenuator, which may also convert between balanced and unbalanced signals. Unbalanced means one leg is grounded, so a 1V peak to peak signal would be between 0V and 1V, whereas the same 1V balanced signal would vary between -0.5V and +0.5V. From that they then feed a 6 way amp, almost certainly incorporating filters, to drive the 4 main channels and a stereo sub. Virtually identical to what Marty's 4 door amps substitute for the DSP amp solution does only it doesn't include the sub amp as that was separate in the first place. It'll work fine as a substitute for a dead DSP amp and retaining the original head unit but when you start feeding it with signals it wasn't intended to be fed with, then you are in uncharted territory.

I suspect the reason for your whine, although not the pops and crackles which as you say are down to your soldering skills, is because the outputs from your Android unit are unbalanced but the amps are expecting to see a balanced input. Careful experimentation with grounding is needed to sort that and possibly also some filtering on the supplies (I've got a few boxes of FX1588 ferrite cores if anyone can use them or even knows what they are...).

However, Chris still hasn't popped up and told us what he is trying to achieve......

RutlandRover wrote:

You'd need something to power each of the speakers. No headunit will have enough outputs to power as many speakers as these cars has. Most headunits have 4 speaker outputs at most. FR, FL, RR and RL.

That, along with a sub output, is all you need. The DSP feeds the bass speaker on a separate feed to the mid range and tweeter but you could just parallel them up or run via a 2 or 3 way external crossover. So the FR output would be connected to all 3 speakers in the FR door. I suspect the DSP amp has the crossover built in so rather than it having 8 outputs, it still only has 4 but with the front feeds going via an internal crossover and giving a bass output and a mid/tweeter output from the same input. Having 3 separate speakers is no different, in fact preferable, to having a 3 way component speaker. Most cars these days run 3 speakers per channel so any head unit should be capable of powering them.

What we don't know is what you are trying to achieve (other than having window rattling bass). I know you've got the Android unit installed but you've retained your original Alpine head unit. Are you planning on retaining that or are you going to change that too?

Lpgc wrote:

While on the subject of cleaning plastic lights... Not that I have any need for this at the moment but has anyone ever tried similar with glass headlights or even windscreens? Not yellowed in the case of windscreens but the tiny marks and scratches they get over the years.

Jewellers Rouge and an awful lot of elbow grease......

If you've got the DSP amp, you haven't got the outstations (amps) in the doors, speakers in the doors are wired directly to the DSP amp. So you can run from the head unit to the speakers by linking the wires where the DSP amp used to be. The problem is that the DSP amp is only fed with L and R signals, no front and rear feeds. Marty will no doubt confirm but I'm not sure there is a pair of rear outputs from the head unit, my understanding of it is there is the L and R and then a data line so the output is split front/rear in the DSP amp depending on how you have told the head unit.to divide it.

If it's working why are you removing the DSP amp? I can't see there's anything to stop you simply replacing the existing sub amp and speaker with a different one.

2600 grit and soap..... Had to do the lights on other half's previous car and found that T Cut do stuff specifically for cleaning the oxidation off plastic headlight lenses. Comes in two parts, one, a coarser stuff than usual T Cut (and probably has something in it to make it work better on plastic) and a sort of liquid sealer to fill in any blemishes. Worked pretty well but doesn't last more than a couple of months. Don't think it will work now you've covered the lenses in tiny scratches though.

I'd just slobber it in Hammerite......

Don't you believe it. The AC pipes on the P38 are all ali and it is not uncommon for them to leak. Come to that, the condenser is also ali and we've probably all had to replace one of them.

Fixing aircon just as the weather starts to get warm? Whatever next......

Thanks Dave but if I'm going to take it off and pull it to bits, I'd rather rebuild it with new bits rather than secondhand ones no matter how good they look. You'd still need to add a set of seals to it (and preferably bearings) as even if they didn't leak before you can bet anything you like they will after being taken apart and put back together. Having pulled one off before and knowing what a really fun job it is, I'd rather only take it off once.....

BPR6ES plugs after 17k on gas will be well knackered. I change mine every 10k miles whenever I do an oil and filter change. If the leads are more than a couple of years old, change them too.

They always say if you leave something it will bite you in the bum when it can. One of my minor things became major yesterday. Outside temperature 31 degrees and blower decided to stop working completely. HEVAC detected the problem so cut the power to the other one too. Not that much fun in what is effectively a mobile greenhouse in the sun......

Drivers side blower swap now done. Problem with the old one appears to be a dodgy commutator as it didn't move when initially powered up but as soon as it was spun, started to move, albeit slowly and with a lot of vibration.

GEMS should have clips screwed to the rocker covers. One of mine still has them, on the other the HT leads are held away from the metal with tie wraps.

A lot of those are quick and simple, others not so. My list is quite a bit shorter:
Rear washer nozzle clogged
Drivers side blower bearings intermittently noisy
Slight oil leak from somewhere above the oil filter (either pressure switch or pressure relief valve O ring)

but then the big one. If I really boot it, I can get the chain in the transfer case to skip a tooth. Now considering it's the original transfer case so has done 377k miles, it hasn't done bad but needs to be done. Can't decide whether to buy the chain and bearing and seal kit from Ashcrofts, pull it off and do it myself (not a fun job) or simply get a recon (also from Ashcrofts) and get it fitted by someone with a lift and transmission jack.

Recently fitted a reversing camera (a wireless option with my Garmin sat nav) and fitted it in the bottom part of the bumper above the tow hitch. Mainly to make hitching up a trailer on my own a lot simpler but it also gives a good view so I don't put the towball through someone else's number plate when reversing into a parking space.

I have a feeling I had to log in with a Microsoft account but wouldn't swear to it.

Complete engines or short? I had one short engine in the boot of a P38 and it looked lost. With the seats folded 3 should go in no problem, even complete engines. Your biggest challenge is going to be getting them in. I thought it would be easy with my engine crane but the arm isn't long enough once the lower tailgate is down so once in place it had to be manhandled in.

C'mon then, what was the verdict?

Smiler wrote:

I might just have to keepan eye out for that. I have to say, after being a life long fan but never actually an owner of the Range Rover Classic, I now would not swap my P38 for one.

I've owned one and would never go back, except maybe as a keep it in the garage and only bring it out for high days and holidays. The Classic is a lot simpler but in many ways more complex. Mine was a 93 LSE so had the 4.2 V8 and originally the EAS although it had been converted to springs before I got it. The original Classic was pretty basic but as the years went on and more and more electrical toys were added (even things like heated door locks and washer nozzles so they wouldn't freeze up in cold weather), the original fusebox on the dash simply wasn't big enough so they had to tack them on wherever they could. So there are fuseboxes and relays under the seats, more relays behind the kick panels, more under the dash, more tacked onto the side of the steering column, any space big enough to fit a relay has at least one there. Even the air con is a completely separate unit to the heater with it's own fans and ducting. It is the best advert for the BeCM you have ever seen and an absolute nightmare to trace a fault. Then there is the rust, in places where you can see it and everywhere else where you can't and there's some really lovely rust traps too. If you get water in the footwells on a P38, it's because the heater O rings are leaking, the AC drains are blocked or the sunroof drains are blocked. On a Classic when you get water in the footwells it's because the channel shaped top of the bulkhead has rotted through as the drain holes at each end have got blocked with dead leaves and the water has just been sitting there eating away at the bulkhead.

To drive they are far more truck like, if you've ever driven a Disco 1, then they feel much the same. The wood and trim looks good but the plastic is BL engineering at it's best, they rattle and creak and the Austin Maestro switchgear just doesn't have even the remotest hint of quality feel about it. Oddly, they feel livelier but the throttle pedal has only half as much travel, so you're giving it more throttle than you realise. The P38 feels like a car, the Classic feels like a truck.

Clive603 wrote:

In retrospect a pretty good case could be made for the P38 being "peak comfy 4x4" from a users perspective. Far as I can see all the later vehicles in this market segment, whether made by Land Rover or others, seem to have just added scads of expensive, unreliable pseudo refinements which don't make any realistic difference to real world performance or how well the vehicle actually does its job. They are not even seriously less thirsty. About the only place modern does seem to win out is in the communications and entertainment side of things

Couldn't agree more Clive. Rather than surface sensing computerised systems, like hill decent control, it would have been far cheaper for Land Rover to send every buyer on a free day at their off road school, all the later systems do is take the thinking out of it. So rather than the driver actually driving the car, the car makes the decisions and sets things as it sees fit. Then the driver gets into what he thinks is an unstoppable car until the day he tries something really stupid expecting the car to sort things out for him and it doesn't.

As for the communications and infotainment side of things, you've only got to look at a few ads for modern cars. They don't push any important aspects, they push the fact that it will integrate with your iPhone. Fine now, but what happens in 10 years time when people have realised that Apple products are a case of marketing over substance and Android has been overtaken by something else? The infotainment system will be as obsolete as the CD based sat nav, analogue TV tuner and no DAB or satellite radio fitted to the early L322. As it is integrated with the dash, you can't even easily swap it like you could on something earlier with a simple single or double DIN hole where you can update to whatever is current at the time.

You're in the right place to get it sorted though.....