Bring them with you and if we've got time I don't see why not, although I think you are only there on Saturday?

Who is going anyway? Anyone else in the Premier Inn on Saturday night?

Pleasant as in they don't involve grovelling on the ground heaving on a breaker bar......

Both, I suspect people will arrive mid morning on Saturday and go home when everyone's car is in perfect working condition on Sunday.

I've got a spare TPS I can bung in the post for you so you'll be able to get there and if you bring the O rings that will make a pleasant change from doing radius arms.

In that case, the SE has had a later one fitted at some time in the past, so it looks like they do fit. Unless the one on there has already had new flexi sections fitted at sometime in the past.

I've just compared the PAS pipes on my SE (VIN VA368263) which should be the same early one as yours with that on my ex-plod (VIN WA381091) which should be the later QEP104660 hose and I can't see any difference. They follow the same run (down the side of the PAS pump, then a flexi section to a solid pipe along under the radiator, then a further flexi section before a solid pipe to the steering box) and look to be identical. Still not cheap though. Depending on the state of the metal sections, maybe it's worth having a chat with your local Pirtek (and RR beat me to it......).

I suspect Marty's 20 tonne press will soon wipe the outer coating off.....

Are you planning on dropping in? The workshop is somewhere in the middle of nowhere near Swindon.

Not sure how it will affect the AC but mainly it means your fans won't come on. Normal operation is on a cold morning with the system set to Auto, the fans don't start up until there is heat in the matrix so it doesn't blast you with cold air when you really want hot air. After a cold start you should hear the fans ramp up in speed as the temperature increases.

Looks fine, you've got the right sort of clips on the hose too.

StrangeRover wrote:

Do you think it will really take off in the coming years?

Bloody well hope not, they'll start upping the duty on it then. Seriously, an awful lot of more modern cars either can't be or are very expensive to convert as they use direct injection so that will restrict take up. There's far more out there than official figures suggest. DVLA records show somewhere in the region of 150,000 LPG cars on the road yet I've owned a Saab, a Range Rover Classic and 3 p38s, all on LPG but only one had it shown on the V5, all the others just showed petrol. So in reality, there's probably in excess of 500,000 of us running on it. As long as we keep buying it, then filling stations will keep selling it. There's one filling station near me that is supplied by Flogas. I can go to the Flogas depot and pay 54p per litre yet if I go to the garage down the road, it'll cost me 64.9p a litre. Now you aren't going to tell me that Flogas charge a garage that is buying thousands of litres a time the same 54p a litre as they charge me to fill my tank with 60 odd litres. So that garage is making over 10p for every litre they sell, far more than they make on petrol. So why shouldn't they continue selling it?

Yeah, by a long way. The Saab only had 253,000 on it when I sold it. I learnt a lot from that as it was my first LPG car. Considering I only paid £160 on eBay for it, and then ran it for 3 years (including driving it to Russia and back twice) it didn't do bad.

None. Pull the pipes, fit the U union and top up the dribble that you lost.

It's entirely possible but as mentioned the tank must be at least a certain distance (I think it is 5m) from buildings and the property boundary. Not that much of a problem if you live out in the sticks and I see tanks in people's gardens quite regularly in places like Norfolk where mains gas isn't available. Gas for home use such as heating and cooking, requires vapour so comes off an outlet on the top of the tank but to run your car you need liquid so you need a tank with a bottom take off too and then a pump to get it into your tank. You buy the bulk gas from your preferred supplier (although a lot won't fill a tank that they didn't supply or you don't hire from them) and use a meter to accurately inform HMRC how much you are using in your car so they can send you a bill for the Road Fuel Duty. If you can get it at the right price, it's worth doing but it isn't cheap to get set up in the first place, you're looking at around £2k for a suitable pump to start with. I came across a rural taxi company a few years ago that had 5 cars all running on LPG so the owner had his own tank and filling point for convenience. Due to the amount he was using he was getting a good deal on his gas too.

Blimey, you've got the lesser spotted battery cover (and a bolt missing from the RH bonnet latch.....).

The silicon hose is the same outside diameter as the original bits of rubber hose on each end of the brittle plastic pipe. I can't remember what year your car is but on the pre 99 GEMS, it is too fat to follow exactly the same route as the original where it goes under the alternator so I've routed mine behind it instead. It also has the advantage that it doesn't set rock hard like the original. I have never been able to pull the short hose off the top of the inlet manifold as it seems to weld itself on but the silicon stays nice and flexible.

Most common cause of an intermittent AC compressor is too large an air gap on the clutch. There isn't enough magnetism to pull it in but once in it will stay. Easy test is to set the HEVAC so it is trying to operate it and tap the clutch with a screwdriver handle. If it pulls in and stays in, then the air gap is too wide. If you take the front off, there are spacer washers behind it. Remove those until you have an air gap of between 18 and 30 thou.

If the link lead you are talking about is the additional one between the battery positive and the alternator (so giving an extra path rather than via the starter), just measure it. It's only short, about 18 inches would give enough slack to allow it to be routed neatly, I would think.

Most of us have taken the plate off and resealed it, then replaced the two hoses with 8mm ID single ply reinforced silicon tube. This is the stuff most of us have used http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/8mm-silicone-1-ply-radiator-heater-hose-1-metre-to-50-metres-blue-black.html. The only problem with it is the supplier who is often out of stock. You might have better luck finding it in the US.

If you decide to bypass the throttle body heater, a U tube is better than blanking the ends as the feed from the top of the engine also allows and air locks to find their way back to the header tank.

Hotel we used last time was Premier Inn, Swindon North, Broad Bush, Blunsdon, Swindon, SN26 8DJ. I haven't booked yet but will be doing.

I'm looking at the OEM ones as they are half the price of the genuine but appear the same (except for the bag they come in). Mines currently got orange poly bushes in it and they've been there for a good few miles so even OEM rubber ones should last, even with the mileage I do.

That's a cheap fix. You'd have been really pissed off if you'd paid for a new gearbox and fitting only to find it was exactly the same.

With Nanocom or similar. In BeCM, Settings, Alarm.