No idea on the Audi core but on the original the flow goes in at the bottom and the return out of the top. I'm not much of a fan of the Audi core mod either. The original O rings lasted over 15 years and while being a bit of a pain aren't that difficult to change whereas to change the heater core involves either a dash out or butchery to the metalwork to allow it to be got out. As Sloth says, change the O rings every so often (although I'd say nearer every 10 years would be adequate) and leave things as they are.

Replace filters, check for leaks.

It shouldn't make a difference which way round the flow through the vaporiser is. In theory it should be inlet at the top but in practice it makes virtually no difference. With them plumbed in series, then you will get full flow through both. If they were in parallel I would say that was the problem as the coolant would take the easiest route but in series? How high up is the vaporiser mounted? If too high you could be getting an airlock in it or there may be too much restriction to the flow. What size hoses have you got going to the vaporiser? What vaporiser do you have? On both mine I've got the 19mm hose from the inlet manifold to a reducer down to 16mm, though the vaporiser and then another 16-19mm adapter to the heater and they are both working fine, even in this weather. The sensor will be reading a bit low if it is on a rubber hose rather than the original alloy pipe but I wouldn't have expected it to read that much lower. Do you have an infra red thermometer to check the temperatures of the flow and return hoses to the heater at the bulkhead? Mine read the same within a couple of degrees.

It's the one clipped to the inlet pipe next to where the O rings live. The clip can break so it falls off the pipe and just dangles so reads ambient temperature. I know it's been cold but I doubt it got that cold.......

Yes, it's open circuit.

James, did you get my PM with the part number for the bumper blanking plates?

Only the last one? I must have lost about 5 by leaving them on the bumper and forgetting to put them back on. I buy two at a time now so I've always got a spare.

Yes having to take the weight of the hose can be interesting. Standing there like a bloody scarecrow with one arm outstretched one way holding the hose and the other holding the button in on the pump.

I'll get mine too then. I've got the cup and Acme adapters in my centre cubby but I think I've only used the Acme one once or twice. Nearly as good as ours unlike the cup filler where you have to support the weight of the hose to stop the seal leaking on half the pumps I've found.

There's 4 different fillers, the bayonet type used in the UK and Holland, the Acme screw used in Germany and Ireland, the Euro filler used in Spain and Portugal and the Italian cup used virtually everywhere else. I've got the standard UK filler but it has a 22mm thread on the inside so I can screw in an adapter to any of the other types. Take off the cap, screw on the adapter and fill so no real problems as long as you have the adapter.

What filler have you got?

Depends what filler you have but if you have a look here https://tinleytech.co.uk/product-category/lpg-parts/filler-components/caps-and-housings/ you should find the right one.

All the tailgate wires are white as a security measure (so nobody can identify the wire that opens the tailgate if you ground it). Why not just turn the ignition on, put it in reverse and see which of the 4 wires is live?

Up a bit and to the right......

He said he's in Fife in the Radius Arms thread.

It's the same with other cars. Friend's son was trying to get insurance of a 1.1 Fiesta and getting stupid quotes. He had nothing going for him, 18 year old student with a driving licence that the ink was still wet on. Found that while the Fiesta was going to cost a fortune, he could get insurance on my friend's old Peugeot 405 diesel for sensible money. It's all done on risk, number of 18 year old students driving a Fiesta that make a claim versus number of 18 year old students driving a Peugeot 405 diesel that make a claim makes him look like a good risk. It'll be just the same with the Volvo, How many young drivers in Volvos make a claim? Not very many I suspect so statistically it looks a better risk but in reality it's because very few young drivers drive Volvos.

Mind you, getting back to the original question, how many claims have been made by young drivers in diesel Range Rovers? Again not many I suspect.

Nice little run then. The last couple of summer camps at Marty's have been over a weekend so some have stayed in a local hotel on the Saturday night with a beer or three in the evening to make it worthwhile. Morat's skills with the barbecue have to be sampled too.

Check for play, if none, replace the rubber, if there's play, bite the bullet and replace the joints. How is the rest of the restoration coming along?

My local motor factors sells assorted sized rubber boots so I'd be inclined to get one of the right size or even slightly larger, slit it, wrap it round and Superglue the ends together. Much the same as the universal CV joint boots that you can buy that even come with a tube of glue. Assuming there's no play in the actual joints, all you are doing is keeping the grease in and the wet out.

How many tatters is it in? Superglue works well on rubber.......

I took one car in to have top and bottom done on one side. Was quoted £380 but by the time it was done the bill came to £1050. That was at an indie staffed by ex-LR mechanics. The top one usually gets play in it first and is a lot less noticeable than the bottom one so do them both. The only way you will see any play unless it is really bad is by jacking the car up on the axle so the wheel is off the ground, then putting a crowbar under the wheel and trying to lift it. It's pretty certain you will have play. Have a word with Chris (no10Chris), he's got the kit for changing them.

The danger is in finding out if it works as you need to get the car into a state where it needs the EKA in the first place. Then if it doesn't work you are screwed......

It isn't only key fobs. I've spent the last 2 days on a USAF base here in the UK chasing radio equipment operating on frequencies that are OK to use in the States but not here. The problem is that the US has land borders with nobody other than Canada (who have to follow the US) and Mexico (that they don't care about) so allocate the radio spectrum how they see fit which is, unfortunately, differently to everywhere else. As radio waves don't know about country boundaries, we have to coordinate with Western Europe who have to coordinate with Eastern Europe who have to coordinate with Russia and the Middle East and so on. It was something that caused no end of problems in the first Gulf War where US and other, non-US forces, were unable to communicate as the radios they had weren't compatible.