It is a frequency thing, NAS fobs operate on 315 MHz compared with most of the rest of the world that uses 433 MHz (315 is in the middle of the military air band here). I suspect that while 433 MHz fobs are still available 315 MHz ones aren't.

Yup. I've got poly bushes on the front at the moment but I've been considering changing (even though they still seem OK). Mine have been off before so I know they will come off again too so should be simple. Since I moved house I've discovered an indie in the next village (RJ Landrovers) and was considering asking if they had the press and kit for changing them so I could take them off and drop them in there but if a camp is being planned I'd prefer to get stuck in and do it myself. More fun too.....

Marty (or Sloth) will hopefully pop up and answer this one but I was under the impression that if a BeCM wasn't programmed with an EKA, all you had to do was turn the key to lock 4 times then to unlock. The 4 turns is how you put the car into EKA accept mode and then enter the code, with no code you just put it into that mode and it does the job. The other story, which may or may not have any truth, is that there was a default NAS EKA of 1515.

As I was once told by a lawyer, laws are drafted and worded by lawyers in such a way that other lawyers can then earn a fortune arguing over the precise meaning of them......

I found recently that the best deal for insurance is mustard.co.uk. Dina's daughter, 22 years old but provisional licence holder, bought a Nissan Micra to learn to drive in. Best quote on gocompare was £3,050 if she agreed to have a telematics unit installed. Mustard came up with £800 for the same cover, no telematics and with a company you've actually heard off (Hastings). That was just over a year ago and at renewal, even though she still hasn't taken her test, an extra years NCD has bought it down to under £600.

I'm in the process of buying a LHD car for Dina's parent's in Latvia and have found that they seem to be very cheap in Holland. As I had a couple of questions, I emailed Tony, Ferryman, for advice. Although Tony sold his P38 so hadn't been here for a few months I told him that he was still welcome to drop into the pub for a bit of banter. Unfortunately that isn't going to happen as I've just received the following email:

Hello Richard, I am Ronny the stepson of tony. I'm sorry to inform you that Tony passed away on Christmas Day 2nd.
I will post another message on the forum later this week,If there are any questions you can always ask, we will keep the email account.
best regards Ronny

What is it they say about the good dying young?

Aragorn wrote:

I think that sounds like a wise move actually, i think i will get a basic non-remote key made to keep in the drawer should the worst happen

That's a silly place to keep it, no good having a spare key in a drawer when you are hundreds of miles away from home. I've got a blank and have been meaning to get it cut for years now. My idea has always been to secrete it under the car somewhere so I know where it is and can get it if I need it but nobody else would. Even if anyone found it they'd still need the EKA before they could start the car anyway.

It was called Tan up until 98 but from 99 onwards they called it Walnut, although better known as dog poo. After having a bit of a tidy up in my garage, I've got a full set of what you need but in Ash Grey (almost black). You are welcome to these if you think painting them would be an option.

You've got it but it doesn't go into lockdown, it just re-enables the immobiliser. On an early car, if you unlocked the car, opened a door but didn't start the car within 60 seconds it would re-enable the immobiliser (but not the alarm), when you turned the key to start, the starter wouldn't do anything and it came up with Enter Code or Press Remote on the dash. You pressed the unlock button on the remote and that allowed you to start the car. If the fob wasn't working for whatever reason, you had to enter the EKA code. Mine was like that for at least the first 5 years of ownership (until I bought the Nanocom) and I got into the habit of pressing unlock just before putting the key in whether I needed to or not. On the later ones like yours, you unlock the car and no matter how long it was between unlocking and trying to start the car, as soon as you put the key in the ignition the coil causes the fob to transmit negating the need for you to press the button, it did it for you. As soon as you turn off passive immobilisation then it doesn't cause the fob to transmit as there is no need for it to as it isn't going to be immobilised anyway. All fine except it has been found that on some cars it won't allow you to sync the fob if passive immobilisation is turned off.

Hmm, didn't you think that the battery was a bit loose and rattling around? A 2000 should have passive sync enabled so the fob is caused to transmit when the key is put in the ignition by the coil around the lock. So when you put the key in, the LED on the fob should flash. However, it won't if you have turned off passive immobilisation in the BeCM and that can also affect manually syncing it. You need to hold the button on the fob down for a couple of seconds until the LED flashes quickly if doing it in the door.

If it still doesn't work then you could well have a problem with one of the latch switches.

MarkTr wrote:

Gil-- is there a video or photo sequence which shows this resolder process.

Not that I've seen I'm afraid.

I took the back off and positioned the battery so the edge (+) touched the single leaf spring and the bottom of the battery (-) pressed down on the three leaf springs. Pressed each button and no joy.

Battery? Singular? It needs 6V from two CR2023 batteries in series so just using one will only give it 3V and it won't work.

So are you saying that the three grounding leaf springs are probably not making good ground to the board and I need to remove- flip it over and reflow solder on the backside to the through pins of the grounding ring?

Yes, you've got it. Although all three go to ground it uses the contact as a jumper to connect three separate ground tracks together

If you cannot use the NANO to read the EKA from the BECM memory because it is locked out ---I wonder why it is set up for you to print in the EKA. It must be if you buy an unlocked BECM and can load your original.

No idea, ask Colin who designed the Nanocom, he may know why the feature is there.

Guess I will have to try my luck with my local dealer. Although they no longer providing programmed key fobs for our P38's- I hope they still provide the EKA. For now, I have disabled the EKA with my NANO. But to turn off the immobilizer with the NANO I need the EKA

A main dealer over here can connect to the LR database and supply a printout for the car from the VIN giving the EKA, radio code, lockset barcode and various other details on the car. They will only supply it if you take in a registration document in your name though. You can't turn off the immobiliser, only passive immobilisation. Passive immobilisation is where it sets the immobiliser if you don't start the car within 60 seconds of unlocking it.

Marty will no doubt confirm but I have a feeling the Nano can only read the EKA and FOB codes if the BeCM is unlocked. At the factory it will have been programmed and locked so some features can't be accessed.

If the LED on the fob isn't lighting up, then it isn't transmitting. One fault is that the large round terminal is soldered to the pcb in two places and one place can suffer from dry solder joints. To re-solder it involves the board being removed from the case which sometimes is fairly straightforward just by levering the two halves apart. Other times it puts up a real fight. I resorted to slotting a Stanley knife blade into the joint and squeezing the fob and blade in a vice on one.

The clip will be related to the knee panel being off. I've found those clips laying around above the knee panel and for a while couldn't work out where they had come from so the a) fall off regularly, and b) as the vent doesn't fall out of the dash, don't do a lot anyway.

I had a pair of tweeter panels as the car a mate bought had the panels but someone had removed the tweeters from behind them. I got a pair of panels complete with tweeters for him so had the panels kicking around. I'm trying to remember either where I put them or if I threw them away thinking I would never need them......

Removing the motor is easy enough, it slides on, so a sideways push and it comes out.

As for the bits Aragorn has found, the strips, or at least one of them, appear to be from the inside of the runners that the window slides in. If you slam the door with the window open, does it rattle? If it does, that's because the runner has lost it's rubber. The lump of metal looks to be the clip that holds the air vent in place on the end of the dash, so what it is doing inside the door is anyone's guess.....

More to the point, when you changed the batteries in the fob did you check that the contact was lining up with the contact of the battery holder. Sometimes the battery hold has to be in just the right position to make contact.

It doesn't crank if it isn't in P or N, it does nothing (which can be really worrying when you turn the key and absolutely nothing happens).

Doesn't a Thor crank but not fire if it has lost sync? I don't think you get the lack of MIL like on a GEMS, but it may just need to be re-synced with the nano.

MarkTr wrote:

The interesting thing is that the only change I made between my first ride and this second ride was to fill that tire to the specified 38 psi-- it was at 28 psi on my first ride with no wobble.

I pulled off the right front wheel which felt like the problem child

If it's a front wheel it should be at 28 psi, it's 28 front, 38 rear.

Death wobble is more like a motorcyclists tank slapper and does make the car almost impossible to control and is caused by slop in steering and suspension. A slight vibration through the seat of your pants is something at the rear end, rear wheel balance, prop UJs, wheels not seated properly, etc. Although the harmonic damper was fitted to the later Classics, it wasn't fitted to very early P38s but there was a TSB issued recommending they were fitted to any where the owner complained of vibration and shortly afterwards they became standard on all. I know of one owner (MikeinFrance) who left his off as he was in a hurry, couldn't see what it achieved and was bloody awkward to fit on his own. Found the car tried to remove his fillings at anything over 60 mph!

The wheel nuts can corrode under the stainless covers which usually means hammering a socket onto them as you have found. Once off you've got a few options, cut the stainless covers off, squeeze them in a vice to get the flats back or buy new ones. Wheels corroded to the hubs is also not that uncommon and getting them off can take quite a time. Once off, use a wire brush on the hubs and inside of the wheel to clean the layer of corrosion off (I've found a cup type one in a power drill works best). Make sure you clean out the centre hole in the wheel too. Simply doing this can stop, or at least reduce, some vibrations as the wheels will be running true.