This is what I see. The Hackery forum was added for people who wanted to get deeply involved in reprogramming various software bits and it all went completely over my head (but I suspect I can see it as I'm a moderator) but it then seems to become a private forum for moderators and the LPG Forum one was added when it looked like we would be taking over the LPGForum (www.lpgforum.co,uk) as the previous owner was talking about closing it and was a closed forum for a few of us.

Ah, Hackery might only be accessible by mods, it appears below the others along with another one about the LPG Forum which is only available to a few of us. I assumed it was something my end as LPGForum is the same, things aren't automatically marked as read, I have to manually do it.

Seems odd that it's only just started for you though, I wonder if Gordon has been playing......

The reducer you have is rated at 380 bhp so is easily capable of running your car so changing it for something else isn't going to give any benefits. What it will do is cause you lots of grief with pipes being in a different place whereas swapping in a new Bigas unit will be a straight swap. For the difference in price I would always suggest a complete new reducer over a rebuild kit. No struggling with seized screws and you know the mechanical parts are new too and not just the rubber bits. I'd say fit a new reducer and then calibrate the system (which may require a slight increase in gas pressure or just tweaking the map).

It's always been like that for me and not just on Opening Time, also on Oily Bits and Electrikery (although not on Hackery). All I've ever done is read the threads then click on Mark as Read before coming out of it. It seems to affect some people and not others and the theory is it's something to do with the operating system and browser being used.

Mine's got the good quality orange poly bushes and I think they are starting to signs of wear. Still handles fine and no wandering around but it just doesn't quite feel as tight as it has. They've been there for the best part of 100,000 miles though but if there's a Radius Arm bush changing Spring Camp then sign me up for it and I'll have a set of cheaper, better, OE bushes pressed in.

Huh? The steering damper is right at the front, in front of the axle and below the radiator. How can it get anywhere near the sump? Or do you mean the harmonic balancer, the big round lump of cast iron? That should be well away from the sump.

That's your problem then. CDL switch not doing anything. Ordinarily that would change state depending on which way you turn the key so with it not working you can't sync as you can't turn the key both ways. Simple way to test the CDL switch with the Nano is to just sit in the car and push the sill locking button down.

If the fob and BeCM aren't paired the BeCM won't receive a valid code. It'll receive something but ignore it. The most likely scenario is that the key switch is playing up in the latch so although you are turning the key, the BeCM doesn't realise it. You can check the operation of the switches with the Nano by going into BeCM, Diagnostics, Doors - Locking and it will show you the change of state as each switch is operated.

It's only the US spec ones that have 4, two pre-cat and two post-cat. Same as only US ones have the Secondary Air Injection junk on them too.

What colour interior as George in the Philippines needs various interior trim plastics.

There's no such thing as a generic for all years, GEMS uses 5-0V Titania sensor while Thor uses a 0-1V Zirconia. Not sure what the difference is between an early GEMS and later GEMS other than the plug though but there must be a difference.

Not that warm here either! My next trip is scheduled for around 15th February so I'm pretty sure I'll see some white crispy stuff on the way down. At least you've got the tube sorted, when will you be home to get it properly sorted?

Pulling the HEVAC out can make things easier, otherwise remove the complete facia surround and the radio comes out with it.

Thtat's right, take the bolt out, slip it between the inner door frame and outer door skin and put the bolt back so it passes through the hole. I've found that sticking it to one of those magnetic things used for fishing dropped nuts and bolts out of the bowels of something makes guiding it into place easier.

There was a more recent thread on there where someone found the actual part is available from Turner. See https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/326868-coolant-leak-cylinder-head-top-hose.html

Mines working fine.....

(if you ignore the 4 strips on the rear window heater that don't do anything and the front heated screen that only clears a few strips)

The lump of steel goes between the two parts of the door skin and the bolt that holds the exterior door handle in place goes through it. It's so you can do the bolt up tight without it crushing the inner skin against the outer skin. An easy one to lose as 9 times out of 10, you remove the bolt to remove the door handle and it drops into the bottom of the door. The plastic clip looks familiar but I can't for the life of me remember where I've seen it.

There have been so many old wive's tales built up over the years that most can be ignored. The engine has been around for a very long time and has been used in numerous different cars so if it was as bad as some make out, it would have been killed off years ago. Yes, neglect the cooling system, allow it to overheat and it will blow a head gasket, but so will any other engine. It's much like the stories that the 4.6 will slip a liner at every available opportunity but it happens less on the 4.0 litre. Why? Not because the liner is thinner due to the larger bore (as the bore is the same, it is the longer stroke that gives the increased capacity) as has been suggested but because they sold less 4.0 litre engined cars so less will fail. Much of this has been spread around by RPi who exaggerated the problem to convince people to spend a fortune of their custom cast blocks.

Anyway, the gurgle from inside the block is a sure sign that you still have air in there and until that is out then the coolant level will keep on dropping. Once up to temperature there should be pressure in the system, the hoses should be firm but not rock hard. If it doesn't pressurise at all, then you have a leak somewhere and you won't be able to bleed the air out as the coolant leaking will be replaced with air.

A few years ago the Top Gear boys crossed south America in different vehicles, one being a very rough Range Rover Classic. At the end of it the verdict was that the most unreliable car in the world was the most reliable car in the world (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-q-3VK4JgE0).

True, I forgot that one. The rocker cover bolts are 8mm, 12 point and on earlier cars (not sure about later ones) the exhaust manifold to head bolts are 12mm 12 point.

Methinks you worry too much..... From what you describe I would say it is pretty much certain that you do not have a blown head gasket. The coolant passages run at each end of the heads so a blow between cylinders 1, 2, 7 or 8 into the coolant passage would cause a loss of coolant. However, it would also cause the spark plug in the offending cylinder to be steam cleaned and it would likely drop to 7 cylinders at idle. It would also pressurise the cooling system to the point that it would spit all the coolant out and overheat within 10 minutes or so of running. The only other way of coolant getting into the combustion chambers is around the outside edge of a liner but again, you'd be seeing cleaned, if not rusty, spark plugs and pressurising to the point where it would blow coolant out of the overflow if not start bursting hoses. So, the black carbon on the plugs says you don't have coolant getting into a combustion chamber either through a gasket or a weeping liner.

In cold weather you will get puddles under the tailpipes. If you are feeling really brave, dip your finger in it and taste it. If it tastes of anti freeze, then it is coolant but I suspect you'll find it doesn't, it's almost certainly condensation.

Fortunately, we don't have the secondary air injection system, that is only fitted to US spec cars, so plugs are fairly easy to get to. and they don't get in the way when it comes to taking the heads off.

There are numerous 'recommended' ways of burping the cooling system that have varying degrees of success (reading some of the threads over on the other forum, you'd think it was some sort of black art). I have never had to burp a cooling system, I just fill it up but I do have my own way of doing it. Disconnect the bleed hose from the top of the radiator and poke a piece of wire in to make sure it is clear. Blow through the tube to make sure that, and the small hole into the filler neck on the header tank, is also clear. If you have a blockage in this bleed circuit, you will never be able to bleed all the air out. Fill the header tank to the top, let it settle for a few minutes and keep topping up. Once the level stops dropping, squeeze the top hose, put your finger over the bleed nipple on the radiator and release the top hose. You are squeezing air out of the bleed nipple and sucking coolant in from the header tank. Keep doing this, and keep topping up the header tank if you need to, until coolant comes out of the bleed nipple and refit the hose. If you can hear the coolant sloshing around inside the engine, there is still air in there so carry on until you can no longer hear it. Now refit the hose to the bleed nipple and carry on the squeezing of the top hose only this time put your finger over the hole inside the header tank neck where the bleed hose is attached. A couple more squeezes should see a stream of coolant coming out of this hole every time you squeeze the top hose. Now, and only now, start the engine. The thermostat will be closed so all coolant flow will be through the heater matrix. Raise the engine revs to 1500 or so and you should see the last of the air from the heater hoses bubble up into the header tank. There should also be a constant stream of coolant out of the bleed pipe into the header. Let it idle for a few minutes and there should be no more air coming out so you can put the header tank cap on. Job done.

If you still decide you want to change the head gaskets, an 6 point 8mm 1/4" drive socket may help with the heat shield screws and ARP studs are definitely worth it. No need to remove the fan and viscous coupling so you won't need your 36mm spanner either.