Martyuk wrote:
If you think that's bad... this is on par at least...
Bloody hell, someone paid £2,200 for that?
StrangeRover wrote:
Also this place seems to be predominantly P38 based.
Probably because it was started from people that are P38 owners and had been banned from RR.net by RRTH. It has never deliberately set out to be only P38, it's just that's what we own. P38 owners tend to be enthusiasts with a sense of humour and don't mind a bit of gentle piss taking, the others are a different breed entirely and take themselves far too seriously.
I was actually asked when I will be selling mine last week. Simple answer, I won't. It's got 363k on the clock now and i anticipate keeping it until it's done at least as much again. Brexit means that I am unlikely to be towing a trailer loaded with a classic car of some sort between the UK and France half a dozen times a year as I have been up to now but what else would I want to drive around in? Nothing. It may not be the fastest thing on the road but it will take me anywhere no matter what the conditions and I've got a motorbike for when I want to scare myself......
and while it doesn't look too bad from some angles, from others it just looks plain wrong. Look at an L322 from behind and it way too tall and skinny. It was also too advanced for the time so now you've got loads of bits that are obsolete. Just look at the TV screen in the middle of the dash, analogue TV tuner, analogue radio, DVD based sat nav, all state of the art when new but about as useful as a chocolate fireguard these days. Because it is part of the dash you can't easily upgrade to an Android head unit like some have done on the P38 and as for sticking a standard single DIN head unit in, you've no chance.
0.49V will be that it has detected no signal so has gone to the default of the mid point. What you are reading is coming from the ECU and not the sensor. No fluttering up and down does indeed mean it is dead.
Look at the live reading (Inputs, Fuelling) and it will show what it is reading. Normally when they die they give 0V which the ECU reads as lean so it cranks the fuelling up to make it richer which will give high emissions. Will screw up running on LPG too.
Wrong!!! bank 2 is even numbered pots, RH side as sitting in the drivers seat, not looking from the front.
Course there is, how else does the oil get to and from the rocker shafts? However, the feed goes up around the front, inner head bolt and the return dribbles down the pushrod holes so highly unlikely to be anywhere near the head gasket joint.
If you hadn't moved house and you told him you were bringing them in, Lyndale Engines in Peterborough will skim heads while you wait. It's actually fascinating to watch the machine removing metal from just a couple of spots and then a bit more each pass.
But not when you try to change range? Does it only not work when it's hot so won't change range or not work at all? I know you've swapped the ECU but it does point to a problem there, or at least the wiring between it and the rest of the car.
It is an auto I assume as the wiring is a bit different on a manual.
Quite possibly, Monaco plates too so money was no object.......
I'm with Dave on this one, it's pretty much G4 Challenge look. Whoever has done it (very recently by the wet look paint job) has at least done the pillars and door shuts rather than leaving them whatever the original colour was. Shame about the engine, wheels and Sport vents in the front wings though, with a V8 and big bore stainless exhaust it could be quite decent (ish),
Nowt to do with the XYZ switch, that deals with the gear position on the main gearbox, not the transfer box. You can use the Nanocom to check the light if you go into the BeCM section and then under utilities it allows you to switch on and off each dash light in turn. That will confirm that while the bulb may be good and test OK out of the dash, it may not be working in the dash (usual problem is a poor contact between the bulbholder and pcb). I've just looked at RAVE and can't see a temp sensor mentioned anywhere. There's an output speed sensor on the back of the transfer case though.
Or have a word with Marty in Swindon. He's got the kit, the workshop and has done quite a few in the past.
Not sure which input is used in the Clarion, I just followed the instructions here http://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/index.html#clarion (except I soldered the wires to the back of the pcb and not to the pins on the socket side, much neater) and it looks like Clarion do exactly the same. No matter whether you are using the radio or CD as soon as audio is detected on that input it switches to it and plays that. The display still shows what you were playing before. Not sure if it does the same if you are playing a cassette, I'll have to see if I can find one to try it. It does mean that the line in becomes an additional input rather than instead of something else.
So the one that Rutland Rover has should work then? I would suspect the wiring is there, it is on mine and that was supplied with no radio at all. Is there a simple way of putting a line in on the Alpine unit? It's dead easy on the Clarion and works really well, auto switching to line in as soon as it detects a signal on the input.
Grom do a unit that gives you USB, Bluetooth and Line in but at £130 it isn't cheap, even their Line In alone unit is £60. I know the Clarion used in the earlier P38 can be modified very easily to have the line in (done 2 for other people and it does work very well) but not so sure about the Alpine in later cars. Might be that it needs to be done as you did yours by inserting the audio in the line from the CD changer. In theory there'd be nothing to stop you from putting a switch in line to give you the choice between CD and line in.
You can add the line in and then use something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5mm-Male-AUX-Audio-Plug-to-USB-2-0-A-Female-Jack-OTG-Convertr-Lead-Adapter-BLK/322473958992 but reading the ad it looks like the head unit has to do the decoding so it outputs data rather than audio. The other way of doing it would be to use something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-Mini-Digital-MP3-Music-Player-LCD-Sn-Metal-Support-32G-MicroSD-Card-TR/142858761854 and a 3.5 to 3.5mm lead to connect the headphones socket on the player to the line in on the stereo.
The original Clarion in the Ascot was dead so I sent it to Clarion for repair, it came back fully working, with the code removed and a line in added. I've plugged my phone in and streamed audio from that and I've got a similar player and that works fine too.
The buttons drive a simple resistive ladder circuit so although you would probably need an adapter to convert the outputs into something an Android unit can understand, yes, they could be used with a bit of effort.
It won't as it only has two outputs, left and right. The front/rear fade and sub was all done in the DSP amp.