I think you're trying to turn the wrong one, it's the 15mm bolt head in the middle of the tensioner pulley you need to turn.

The various bodges done to stop the dash filling with warnings when the EAS is removed, have to be seen to be believed. Particularly when the system is so simple that it would be easier to repair it properly. Pull out anything that doesn't look like Land Rover put it there and then fault it when it doesn't work.

If you buy a secondhand Nanocom, all you need do is register it in your name. You can leave it as it is but then you can't get any firmware updates.

I can understand how some get disillusioned with a P38 but if you are doing the work yourself and are methodical then you shouldn't get into that state. I bought mine with 204,000 miles on the clock, a burst rear air spring and a head gasket blowing from one cylinder into the Vee. Got those two things sorted in a couple of days and started using it before finding all the other things that fail on a P38. No different to any car of this age, everything has the stock faults that will always show themselves. For the first year or so, I didn't trust it as far as I could throw it but by working my way through the problems it became reliable. That was 8 years ago. It now has 367,000 miles on the clock, everything, and I do mean everything, works as it should and it is regularly used to drive across Europe, visiting my partners family is 1520 miles each way, and it just does it. Like anything, do it right, do it once.

Registering the Nanocom Evolution isn't that difficult, you just need to follow the instructions and enter the code which is generated for you. If you can't get the computer outside, simply write the code down and take it outside with you.

It's a twin filament H4 for dip and main with a separate H7 for main only.

Better order about 20 feet of it then......

Disconnect both battery leads and touch them together. That will ensure there is no residual current stored in any of the electronics. Leave it like that for 20-30 seconds, then reconnect.

I've always been led to believe that an engine is running at it's most efficient, and therefore most economical, at the revs where it produces maximum torque. Having just done a quick Google, it seems maximum torque is produced around 2,600 rpm which would equate to around 75 mph. Despite having the aerodynamics of a shed......

Sloth did say that the TPS idle voltage can be cleared on a Thor by disconnecting the battery. If it can't you need Nanocom, Faultmate, Testbook or one of the other dedicated diagnostic units.

The adaptive values are a number of things that the ECU learns while the car is being driven, so things like correction factors on the MAF sensor, long term fuel trims and most importantly in your case, the throttle position sensor idle voltage. It is a simple potentiometer, or pot to us electronic types, hence throttle pot. As Gordon says, if the stored voltage for a closed throttle is higher than the voltage from a closed throttle, it will adjust downwards but it doesn't, or at least the GEMS doesn't so no idea about the Thor, adjust upwards . So if the stored voltage for a closed throttle is lower than the actual voltage it will see that as the throttle being slightly open and raise the revs accordingly. As it uses the idle control valve to raise the revs when you give it a tiny bit of throttle, it isn't going to adjust upwards or giving it a crack of throttle to raise the revs slightly wouldn't do anything.

Now I know it usually gets a bad rap and is blamed for everything from the neighbours budgie dying downwards, but it seems the BeCM is actually a pretty clever little beastie. Last weekend I had to tow this to just north of Toulouse

Not only is it 9 feet tall and 6 feet wide, so acts as a braking parachute in a headwind, it was also well loaded so almost at it's maximum weight of 3.5 Tonnes. The weekend coincided with Storm Diana hitting the south of England and most of France too which meant two things, the channel crossing was going to be rough and once the other side I'd have a hell of a headwind. Also the route includes some pretty serious hills both up and down. So, rather than risk being rammed up the back by an empty artic who may not realise the speed differential while I was slogging up a hill in the dark, I put a magnetic 55W halogen amber beacon on one side of the trailer. The trailer has a junction box near the back where all the wiring connects so it was easy enough to connect the beacon to one of the sidelight circuits in there.

About 20 miles from Dover, I get a beep from the dash and the message centre comes up with RH Tail Light Bulb Blown but a few minutes later I notice that the LH side marker lights and beacon had gone out on the trailer. Switched the lights off and back on again and everything came back on. Seems that the extra load of the beacon on one sidelight circuit had been seen, eventually, by the BeCM as a short circuit bulb which would only happen if the bulb had blown so it had switched that circuit off to prevent the possibility of further damage in lieu of there being a fuse in the sidelight circuit. When I next stopped I ran a wire from the beacon to the ignition switched supply in the boot but it did prove that the trailer lights were wired back to front so the LH and RH circuits were crossed I was more impressed with the way the BeCM cuts power to a circuit it detects a problem on, so not so dumb as many seem to think it is.

Incidentally, I took the picture in my avatar on the way back but what was most interesting was the difference between the run there, against the wind with the trailer and coming back with the wind behind me and no trailer. Trip out, average speed 43 mph at 12mpg, coming back, average speed 67mph at 17.2mpg. Seems aerodynamics, or a lack of them, make a hell of a difference......

But was it a dry -1 or damp? I suspect at that temperature it would be dry which would support my suggestion.

I threw 3 or 4 away when I moved house but all of those had slop in the bearing which had caused them to start leaking. Then there was the one where the bearing exploded on me so the seals are of lesser importance. If it starts to leak chances are it is because of slack in the bearing.

One car that I became very familiar with a few years ago had a little quirk where it either didn't, or was very reluctant, to start if it was cold and damp. This had an old school distributor and coil but the principle will be the same. Due to where the coil was mounted, over time it got a layer of oily dust on it. As soon as it got damp instead of the sparks travelling down the HT leads they would track down the side on the coil terminal to ground resulting in no spark at the plug. The cure was to simply polish the dust off the top of the coil. I knew someone who was convinced his car had a moral conscience as it would start perfectly no matter what the weather if he was at home but if he stayed overnight at his girlfriend's house it would refuse to start the next day. Difference was that he put it in a garage at home but it was left outside at his girlfriend's. When I told him that he needed to polish his ignition coil he thought I was taking the piss but once I'd explained why he did it and was able to stay out anywhere he liked overnight after that.

Now I know the coil on a Thor isn't the easiest of things to get at but I also know how much you like polishing things so give it a try.

I think they are pressed in although I've never tried to take one apart, or not a P38 one anyway. I have on a different car where it was found that the bearing, seal and shaft was identical to those from a different car where a rebuild kit was available for one but not the other.

Morat wrote:

Yep, no Door Open RH-F showing on the dash. It seems the door is showing closed all the time.

That figures. If it thought the door was already closed then sill locking would still work as it assumed all doors were shut and you were in the car.

If it's worse in the cold and damp, I'd say you are looking at HT leads breaking down. Polishing the coils helps too.

I've only ever had one that didn't come off with a clout from a club hammer on the pump wrench but that came free easily enough with the bar holding it from turning. When putting them back, I just leave everything dry and spin it on until it reaches the end of the thread and stops. You can turn the engine over with the fan although I don't think you could crank it over fast enough to start the engine WW1 Sopwith Camel style.

What's the beam pattern like? I know the Power UK ones OB fitted could be adjusted to get the correct pattern although they were the best part of a ton a pair. Either the ones they are selling now are different or the price has come down. I bought some eBay ones and they were bright but spread the light everywhere so I went back to the Osram Nightbreakers.

Thanks to Chris for posting the actual RS part number, it's caused Dina more work. She's currently working at RS where her job is to spot errors on their website with descriptions and pricing. Things like 1 item at £2.97 each but if you buy a bulk pack of 100, they cost £4.45 each?? So the DC3C-A1AA switch with a description that says it's rated at 100mA @ 30V but the picture clearly shows it's rated by the manufacturers at 100mA @ 250V is another one for the huge spreadsheet she's creating......

Only problem I've had is that there's no packing in with the pump so it damages the included gasket when it rattles around. However, I've never noticed if the box has been sealed or not but suspect I would be suspicious if it had been.