I've got the CD version that covers Disco 2 and Freelander2. Disco version covers the TD5 engine. I'll upload it tomorrow when I'm back hone (and sober),
Has the inner handle gone floppy as if it isn't connected to anything? It could be that the stuck outer handle has jammed the latch. Mine did it once on a very frosty morning but it jammed the other way so it wouldn't latch when you shut the door, it just swung open again. I fixed that by pouring a kettle full of water down inside the door but I doubt that is going to work for you.
Looking at the dictionary definition, https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/grommet it most definitely is a grommet. A fairly large grommet admittedly but it is. Sometimes you just have to wonder how some things got the names they did......
As Gordon says. Britpart will supply their own cheapo stuff or decent stuff that they buy in so they can offer as many parts as possible. Most of the Dunlop EAS parts come via Britpart, presumably Dunlop don't want to have to supply numerous retailers when they can supply the one wholesaler.
The insurance companies are interested in things that make it go faster, or are perceived to make it go faster as it encourages the driver to act like a dick and increase the chances of an accident, and things that make it look more nickable. So the vast majority of kids in their shopping trolleys with big wheels and bean can exhausts are probably going to be in for a surprise if they ever try to make a claim.
Found 2 part numbers listed on Microcat, ESR3027 (which doesn't specify a year or market), ESR3973 (which is for 99 onwards but is described as a grommet but on the picture looks more like the seal inside the cap and WLR000010 which is listed as for a Discovery (https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/135128/2646/fuel_filler_neck_grommet___v8_petrol___discovery_2) but looks to be correct. There's this eBay listing on your side of the pond which shows the Disco one as the replacement for both earlier part numbers https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-FUEL-GROMMET-RANGE-ROVER-4-0-4-6-P38-DISCO-1-DISCO-2-OEM-WLR000010-/401098865174
Original part number was STC3068 but superseded to RVL100030.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RVL100030
https://www.lrdirect.com/RVL100030-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-bm.html
https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/superseded/stc3068-use-rvl100030.html
Or just get flat washers from B&Q and hit them with a ball pein hammer
I've got AA cover through my bank account and they took me, the car and the car transporter trailer I was towing at the time home. Admittedly it was only from Harlow to Peterborough and not a relay job but they still got everything back.
I've got the English CD version sitting on my Google drive if anyone wants it, https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc Got a bit more on it than the one that covers every model but only covers P38, L322 (up to 2005) and Defender.
I bet the driver had fun getting a transporter down your driveway......
I know how you like buying new toys, so here's the next one......
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/ctj3000g-3-tonne-professional-garage-j/
It's one of these that lives in my boot and having just looked at the spec, I now know why it seems heavy when I'm lifting it in and out, it is.
Robbo1 wrote:
When the pump was running off the car I could hold my finger over the outlet and stop any air coming out.
It's knackered. There's no way you should be able to stop 150+ psi with your finger. The pump would run forever as it needs to be up to roughly 140 psi before the pressure switch shuts it off.
The landroverresource one only works if you have an awful lot of time or are running through a VPN. As it's US based they have obviously erred on the cautious side regarding people downloading it from outside the US. It starts off OK then slows to old school dial up download speed so will take about 2 days to complete..
How long has the pump been running for? Although they say 8-10 minutes, I've found that after you've had the valve block off so there is no pressure in any of the system, even with a rebuilt pump you can be looking at twice that.
The first time I did rear bags I spent hours getting the top pin out and even when that was out, more hours trying to pull the thing down out of the hole it fits into. Now, as the bags are pretty much scrap and going to be replaced anyway, I just slide an old 1" wood chisel between chassis and body and give it a good clout. Chops the top off the air spring and the whole thing just falls out.
With a jack, ideally two, one at each end. Jack it up, put the high blocks in, depressurise the system, drop it down so it sits on the blocks, read the heights, write them using the Nano. Jack it up, remove the blocks, fit the standard height ones, drop it down again, read the heights and so on. On my set I drilled and tapped a hole in the top of the access height blocks so I can screw a bolt it to get them out of the bumpstops easily.
We'll find them a corner to hide in.....
Click on the word P38. It's Smiler's thread, he's posted it here I think.....
If you want a real black black, there is only one, Rolls Royce Masons Black. The mix is 100% black pigment, nothing else.
This was done in that. 3 coats of base coat followed by 2 coats of clear lacquer. Painting it took about an hour and a half, preparation took 2 months.
I've been to one of the places that do armoured conversions and the main thing they aim for is making the car appear as normal as possible. The thinking being that if it is obviously armoured then an attacker would search out and go for any weak spots rather than just spraying it with bullets (that will bounce off). One reason they like doing conversions on Range Rovers is that the air suspension still keeps the car at a normal height even when they'd added half a tonne of armour in the doors, extra thick glass, etc.