Looks like bad news. Assuming you mean the strange shaped white plastic ones that fit onto the back of the rubbing strips and push into the little plastic sockets, they come with the strips and aren't listed separately.
Put it this way, this was mine on the day they said it should be done by......
Not quite finished.
Good news but if it's anything like body shops over here, you won't see it until Christmas. You can guarantee it won't be done when they say it will.
3 base coats is ample, 2 would be normal for a good finish. You will be disappointed when you first see it as it will have the chav 'wet look' until it is flatted back. Normal way is that the clear coats are made up with less lacquer and more thinners on each coat, so the top coat will be thinned right down to give a really deep shine when polished.
FQJ102262PMA is RHD drivers (RH) door, the expensive one. Better to get one of Marty's refurbs. FQJ102281PMA is the RH door on a LHD car, and is the one I bought, so only has one microswitch and the keyswitch lever is missing. I've done a mix and match with a spare RHD drivers latch to swap the missing bits and microswitches over to turn it into a RHD drivers latch. Just got to get around to fitting it now.
About what you've got, I think the largest I've ever seen is a 90 litre. Mine is about as big as it goes without a bit of tin bashing to get it to fit and that's an 80 litre so takes around 67 litres to fill (they shut off when the tank is around 80% full to allow for expansion). On a run I can get 220-230 miles on a full tank.
With or without the chrome strips? Just checked the part numbers and availability and surprisingly the ones with the chrome strips are actually cheaper. Unfortunately, not all are available .I need to visit my local Range Rover dismantler next week, I'll ask in there although I suspect it is something they either don't keep or leave on a door when they sell that.
Usually people ask that question if they are having to factor in the cost of the conversion, so low mileage means it takes longer before they are into a saving. However, if it is already fitted then that isn't relevant so which would you prefer to pay, £1.40 a litre for fuel or 60p a litre for fuel? 2,000 miles a year would cost you roughly £800 on petrol compared with £350 on LPG so you are likely to do more miles as the cost is less of an issue. I did an 800 mile round trip the other weekend and it cost me less than £100 in fuel. Not to mention that LPG is a much simpler hydrocarbon fuel with no noxious additives so not only are you causing less pollution, the oil stays clean so lubricates better and your engine will last longer.
I've run on nothing but LPG for the last 12 years and would not consider running anything else. Even when considering a different car (as an addition rather than instead of the P38 of course) for me the first consideration is can it be converted? With running costs less, or at least very similar to, an equivalent diesel but with none of the downsides. My car is registered with and exempt from charges for low emission zones in France, Germany, Belgium and Holland purely because it is running on LPG.
When mine was resprayed I took them all off before it went into the bodyshop. While I didn't have the car I cleaned them all off and sprayed them with bumper black. Did the same with the front grille and bumpers when I got it back, looks perfect.
Having only ever had one key for mine I've thought about that. I've got a blank key blade anyway from when I bought a replacement fob case but my local Timsons said they couldn't do it. They sent me to a specialist locksmiths who could do it but only one man there knew how to use the machine and he was out at the time so I left it and never went back. My idea was to secrete it somewhere under the car so I could get it if I ever needed it but nobody else would know where to look (and wouldn't know the EKA anyway so wouldn't be able to start the car).
Glad you're in with no damage but it made you late for your dinner though. In the oven or the dog?
Green Flag man should be able to sort it. Favourite method is a thin strip of plastic down the window,
Rear quarterlight glass is another way.
Must be 'improved' security on the later ones then. Just went out to mine, key in ignition, turn ignition on and fully open the drivers window, turn ignition off but leave key in ignition, press sill button down, doors locked, closed door, doors all unlocked. If your door ajar switch wasn't working then it would constantly telling you the door was open when it wasn't.
The best, most non destructive, method is to get the tailgate open by grounding the tailgate latch wire. For that you will need a Stanley knife and a length of wire. Small fingers are helpful too.
But of course if it doesn't work then you are doubly f**cked as the door will be fully shut and locked and not just on the first latch........
Had a theory so just tried it on mine (but with the key in my hand not in the ignition). I didn't think it was possible to lock the doors with them open so I unlocked mine, opened the drivers door, pressed the sill button down to lock all the doors and let the door close. All doors locked, can't get in but the drivers door wasn't fully shut, it was just on the first latch. Gave the door a shove to shut it fully and all doors unlocked.
Theory is that the door ajar switch only operates when the door is either fully closed or fully open. With it part latched it is still telling the BeCM it is open.
I've ordered black single ply from them direct from their website. The first time I got what I ordered, the second time they rang me and said they didn't have any single ply but could send 3 ply instead for the same price (I declined as it is too thick and rigid), the third time, they rang and said they had no black or blue only red so I increased the amount I ordered hence having a few feet of red single ply. They always say it is in stock but it rarely is, they either don't have any or it is coming in with the next shipment, which it doesn't.
It is, it's 8mm internal for the throttle body heater and the radiator to expansion tank bleed pipe. 5mm internal for cruise control.
Ahh, the inner wheelarch liners, that's OK then. You'll need some of these then https://www.lrdirect.com/ANR2224-Fastener/
Wheel arch protectors? I thought you wanted to restore it to original not make it look like a Discovery.
Off topic isn't an issue on this forum, we normally get back on topic eventually unless the original question has been answered then it can wander off anywhere.
On a more modern car, yes it probably would, but as you know, I'm not into modern cars, I'm into ones that you can actually work on......