Sloth wrote:
I've just bought CAT101160 and CAT101170 - fitted perfectly. And very cheap. I should have a twin exhaust - though one half is missing, so I only have the passenger side currently, where an early P38 with single exhaust would have been drivers side only.
Wrong bit, those are the mudflaps not the mud shields that go on the back of the brake disc.
I suspect someone has used Loctite on it at some time and it just isn't going to come off without getting brutal. Why do you need to take it off anyway?
Not that it really matters as when Ray top hats a block the faces of the block are skimmed which removes the engine number. He stamps the engine number back onto it so if you ask he'll stamp it with the number that matches the V5. The other difference is the earlier engines had the number stamped in whereas later ones had it dot etched as in the picture Rutland Rover posted of his.
I can confirm a couple of those, 42D is high compression 4.0 litre GEMS and 46D is high compression 4.6 GEMS. These later changed to 59D and 60D respectively for the Thor variant. If 56 is 4.0 litre Disco, then it might be worth checking the stroke on the engine. Although as someone has tried to disguise the number then it may well be that the block started off as a 4.0 litre Disco motor that has since had a few bits changed. A change of crank, rods and pistons will turn a 4.0 litre into a 4.6 and the Disco used the Thor motor (although why there should be a different code for a 4.0 litre Thor fitted to a P38 and a 4.0 litre Thor fitted to a Disco is anyone's guess). From the honing marks on the bores it looks like it hasn't been run that much since someone had it apart.
No10Chris has an odd engine number on the one in his car. That was a Land Rover replacement fitted a few years ago. His might also be the same format.
JMCLuimni wrote:
Don’t cut the steering wheel.....
Why not? It's only on his old Jeep, not anything important........
If someone was to buy a pair of new ones it would be dead easy to take a mould off them and knock them up in fibreglass. They don't need to be steel after all, they only keep the crap off the inside of the discs.
Depends what spec you want, see http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/short_engines/index.shtml and http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/long_engines/index.shtml
That engine number is completely the wrong format, it should start 60D. What engine number is shown on the V5? I'm wondering if it is one of the mythical Coscast blocks RPi were selling at some eye watering price? They didn't fit top hat liners but did put an O ring around the liner which would explain why it has shifted (and, as you can hear it tapping, is moving with the piston) but isn't letting coolant around the edge so steam cleaning the combustion chamber and pressurising the cooling system.
Doh, sorry my fault, there's actually lots of posts. i deleted some spam without hiding it first which results in the heading saying there's no posts.
Don't see any reason why not. You can run into problems if you fit lower impedance speakers than an amp was designed for but not higher. It can cause a slightly lower level from them but as the JBL speakers are more efficient then there is unlikely to be any noticeable difference.
Yes, a straight swap, the difference is impedance isn't noticable. The original ones are held in with bent tags around the outside whereas the JBL ones have holes for screws. I just drilled holes in the plastic mounts to fit them.
Speaker technology has moved on quite a bit in the last 20 years so while the originals may have been decent in their day they aren't really that good by today's standards. So buying secondhand may be a bit better than what you currently have but not by much. On the advice of a mate who's been a sound engineer for years, I replaced mine with a pair of JBL 600c units and suddenly discovered bass.
StrangeRover wrote:
E10 is a new "petrol" they'll be bringing out in 2020..
Apparently it's bio-ethanol fuel..
Petrol has had bio-ethanol added in small quantities for some time. In France the only 'proper' petrol you can buy is the 98 Octane stuff, the 95 Octane is now E85, with 15% ethanol. It eats some types of the materials used for fuel hoses and seals on earlier cars so worst case you'd need to replace any flexi hoses and seals.
If it's now running on all cylinders on LPG and has lost the original problem after being run on petrol for a while, it does sound like the trims got themselves a bit cocked up. If it was due to one dead lambda sensor that should sort it.
Although it says 1994-2002 it shows the correct part number and says from VIN XA or later so it will be the right one. Assuming it is genuine Bosch and not Chinese knock off, it should be fine.
Not a straight pull then......
However, that does look like a roofing bolt, usually made from a grade of steel marginally harder than plasticine.
No, you must back off every half turn or so to release the swarf and let it drop out. If you don't, the flutes will get clogged, it will get harder and harder to turn the tap until it either jams or you snap it off in the hole.
Should be no problem in ally, might be more critical if you were tapping a blind hole into a big lump of steel but 10mm thick aluminium is pretty soft anyway.
0.2mm would make a difference if you were trying to tap a 3mm thread but not a 12mm. Just take it slowly with the tap, back it off to clear the swarf every half turn or so and use plenty of lube. Toolstation do a proper drilling, tapping lube in an aerosol but since using the last of mine I've been using a can of 30 year old 3 in 1 oil.
How thick is the metal you are tapping?