When I bought the SE, the seller told me it had been fitted with a new water pump just before he sold it, it was leaking within 2,000 miles whereas I've had over 60,000 miles out of an Airtex so far and still fine.

alanl wrote:

Aston V8 Vantage. Bought new two and a half years ago. It's my baby :)

Ooh I'm jealous, that is my dream car. Purely for the noise it makes. A couple of Christmas's ago my daughter asked me what I wanted as a present so I told her. So I've got the model one she bought me......

LED headlight bulbs work fine if you get decent ones but the cheapo Chinese ones from eBay just spread light around everywhere and simply cannot be adjusted to get a decent cut off.

Pollen filters are a good call as they've usually been left for years and are clogged solid with dead leaves. Are both blowers working?

Transmission fluid is nice and easy with the GEMS with the dipstick, a real pain on later ones to the point of not even considering it in this weather.

Fuel consumption sounds about right if you are going by the trip computer, although 12mpg does seem a bit low. Might be worth checking to see what the real world figure is and also plugging a code reader in. If you have a duff lambda sensor, it won't bring on the check engine light but will put it into an open loop, rich fuelling strategy.

High idle can be caused by a number of things. A sticky idle air valve (cylindrical one on the front of the throttle body as you look at it) pull that out and give it a good clean with carb cleaner, the stored voltage from the throttle position sensor being too high (that would need the adaptive values resetting but if it was that it would always be high and not just sometimes) or a sticky throttle butterfly that doesn't always close properly.

I've done blend motors and heater core O rings and have never taken a dash out. Side panels to the centre console, glovebox and instrument panel need to come out and you may need to cut the duct that feeds the rear air vents, but that is all. Blend motors here https://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html and O rings here https://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/heateroring.html although if I remember right, you can get at the temperature sensor with the duct in place.

There is a BMW header tank that is identical to ours but has a level sensor in it. I have a feeling it was from a 5 series of similar vintage but it seems that there are numerous different ones depending on the engine so gave up. If you've got nothing better to do, http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/

That'll be me then. I'm Richard_G on there and Gilbertd everywhere else but they banned me for having the audacity to correct the admin's duff information.

Headlining you now know about, sunroof might put up a fight. I found the sunroof on the Ascot didn't work because someone had removed the motor. Put a motor in it and it still didn't work due to broken bits of plastic in the linkages. I bought a set of plastics from eBay and, after spending two days filing and fettling to get everything moving smoothly, they broke the second time I opened the roof. So I just bought a complete unit from a breaker, gave everything a bit of lube and whacked that in.

Heater not blowing much is usually down to one of two things. There's two blowers, one at each end of the dash, and if one stops working then the air gets sucked in on one side but instead of going through the heater matrix, it just blows straight across the car and out the other side. Simple enough to see if they are both working if you take the pollen filters out and look down the hole. It might just be that the pollen filters are clogged solid anyway. The other cause is the plastic trunking is made in pieces which slot together with foam to seal the joints. The foam degrades and falls out so half the air being sucked in blows out the joints before it even gets to the heater. Passengers will complain of a cold draught on their feet too as the air comes out under the glovebox. Simple fix is duct tape over the joints in the ducts (probably the only time duct tape is ever used for what it was designed to be used for).

My journeys are either around town or long distances towing a variety of trailers so I didn't really notice at first, but mine seems to be using less LPG now I have a complete new system with cats (admittedly much smaller than the originals) that with the gutted ones that were on it before. I also had the odd zingy noise but as it was only noticeable from outside (and I'm not usually outside), I ignored it. Now I just have a very pleasant hum.....

Most likely you have a small leak somewhere. A common place is where the hoses join the steel connecting pipes. The steel pipes start to rust so you get a leak at the join when it gets hot. As it is hot the coolant evaporates so there's nothing dripping out but the level will still drop slightly. Other common culprit is the water pump, again, the coolant evaporates so nothing drips but if you look at it very closely, you'll see the trails where the coolant has leaked.

Mine was plumbed in parallel when I first got it and noticed the heater dropped down to vaguely lukewarm while siting at idle waiting to get into a car park to do my Christmas shopping, but fine once the revs were up due to lack of flow at idle. The Classic I had before was also in parallel and that would ice up the vaporiser within a couple of hundred yards due to lack of flow through the vaporiser. Swapping both to series cured both problems and allowed the pipework to be a lot neater. As Simon says though it is going to depend on the car and how clogged up things are. Might be worth reverse flushing the heater and vaporiser and seeing how much water flows and how close to oxtail soup it looks.

As well as needing the unlock codes for other models for some you need a different cable too. Tried using mine of a Disco 3 and it didn't want to know. Checked with BBS and found that it will connect but only with the correct cable. Hardly anything can talk to the 2002-2010 L322.

No idea on the Audi core but on the original the flow goes in at the bottom and the return out of the top. I'm not much of a fan of the Audi core mod either. The original O rings lasted over 15 years and while being a bit of a pain aren't that difficult to change whereas to change the heater core involves either a dash out or butchery to the metalwork to allow it to be got out. As Sloth says, change the O rings every so often (although I'd say nearer every 10 years would be adequate) and leave things as they are.

Replace filters, check for leaks.

It shouldn't make a difference which way round the flow through the vaporiser is. In theory it should be inlet at the top but in practice it makes virtually no difference. With them plumbed in series, then you will get full flow through both. If they were in parallel I would say that was the problem as the coolant would take the easiest route but in series? How high up is the vaporiser mounted? If too high you could be getting an airlock in it or there may be too much restriction to the flow. What size hoses have you got going to the vaporiser? What vaporiser do you have? On both mine I've got the 19mm hose from the inlet manifold to a reducer down to 16mm, though the vaporiser and then another 16-19mm adapter to the heater and they are both working fine, even in this weather. The sensor will be reading a bit low if it is on a rubber hose rather than the original alloy pipe but I wouldn't have expected it to read that much lower. Do you have an infra red thermometer to check the temperatures of the flow and return hoses to the heater at the bulkhead? Mine read the same within a couple of degrees.

It's the one clipped to the inlet pipe next to where the O rings live. The clip can break so it falls off the pipe and just dangles so reads ambient temperature. I know it's been cold but I doubt it got that cold.......

Yes, it's open circuit.

James, did you get my PM with the part number for the bumper blanking plates?

Only the last one? I must have lost about 5 by leaving them on the bumper and forgetting to put them back on. I buy two at a time now so I've always got a spare.

Yes having to take the weight of the hose can be interesting. Standing there like a bloody scarecrow with one arm outstretched one way holding the hose and the other holding the button in on the pump.

I'll get mine too then. I've got the cup and Acme adapters in my centre cubby but I think I've only used the Acme one once or twice. Nearly as good as ours unlike the cup filler where you have to support the weight of the hose to stop the seal leaking on half the pumps I've found.

There's 4 different fillers, the bayonet type used in the UK and Holland, the Acme screw used in Germany and Ireland, the Euro filler used in Spain and Portugal and the Italian cup used virtually everywhere else. I've got the standard UK filler but it has a 22mm thread on the inside so I can screw in an adapter to any of the other types. Take off the cap, screw on the adapter and fill so no real problems as long as you have the adapter.

What filler have you got?

Depends what filler you have but if you have a look here https://tinleytech.co.uk/product-category/lpg-parts/filler-components/caps-and-housings/ you should find the right one.

All the tailgate wires are white as a security measure (so nobody can identify the wire that opens the tailgate if you ground it). Why not just turn the ignition on, put it in reverse and see which of the 4 wires is live?