The windscreen that decided to crack for no obvious reason is the reason it wouldn't get an MoT but I couldn't honestly sell it. Whenever I thought it was ready to go, I'd use it to make sure it was OK and something else would go wrong, I was beginning to think it just didn't want to leave. It's got a few new bits on it that were fitted when I had intended selling it (water pump, radiator, oil cooler and hoses, door latches, rear air springs, rebuilt EAS valve block and compressor, etc), the head gaskets have been done and it's got a decent interior, engine, gearbox and a nice set of 18" Hurricane wheels but if I was to try and use it I wouldn't trust it as far as I could throw it, so a few bits have been swapped with bits on the Ascot and now it just sits there getting in the way. I'll fire it up every so often to convince myself it could still be used and it fires up first turn every time. I suppose it's not much different to the ex-plod when I first got it but I persevered with that, maybe I just don't have the patience I used to have or having done it once don't feel like doing it all again.
No idea, but if you disconnected it and it didn't go into alarm state and immobilise the car, don't worry about it.
The first bit is to unplug it and the within 17 seconds is so the alarm unit doesn't assume someone is trying to steal it and is disconnecting the sounder so as not to alert anyone.
My SE has become a breaker and once I've swapped a few more bits off it, it will be going. The Ascot is all sorted and fully usable as long as I keep an eye on the coolant level, at least 3 core plugs are leaking including the two at the front hidden by the engine mounts so I need to support the engine on a crane to change them, not simple. Once that is done it will be going up for sale. The ex-plod will be kept forever but after the other two have gone, I'd consider another.......
Thank God you bought it. Dina is picking up her new car next week, a 3.0 litre Merc SLK, but she just said that if she'd seen that she'd have had it for herself. The concept of having 4 P38s to look after just doesn't appeal for some reason.
Problem you have at the moment is that both of the other H&H owners on here are in the US.......
The battery backed sounder should sound if disconnected, unless the batteries are completely dead, in which case disconnecting it is a good idea.
Some had the battery backed sounder, others didn't, but the NiCd batteries in those that had them are going to be well past there sell by date by now. There is a process for disconnecting the sounder without offending the alarm system:
To disconnect the Battery Backed Up Alarm Sounder
(Z272):
Turn Ignition On (Pos. II).
Turn Ignition Off.
Disconnect within 17 seconds.
To silence if triggered:
Connect.
Disarm Alarm.
Turn Ignition On (Pos. II).
Welcome Pete, you've found the best forum for the P38 and another H&H owner too. Like you, I do all my own work and have owned a Classic LSE in the past as well. Never owned a diesel but did have a 200 TDi Disco 1 and a TD5 as company vehicles a few years ago.
If the same as the ones on the banner, that's sparkle silver. Shadow Chrome is darker.
Which ones are Comet wheels? They don't appear on this list https://www.cxmdunord.nl/rims-land-rover/
The Bosch engine management doesn't like anything other than genuine Bosch MAF sensors and if they are starting to go, they rarely respond to cleaning. Best to just leave it alone unless it is showing signs of dying. At 105k,, it's barely run in, although you might have one lambda sensor showing signs of failing and you have 4 unlike the rest of us that only have two.
Have you contacted Ashcrofts https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/automatic-gearboxes.html? I doubt it would take them 2 weeks.
75% of all Land Rovers ever built are still on the road, the other 25% managed to get home.......
I quite like the one that an Aussie has as his signature: Land Rover - turning drivers into mechanics since 1948.
I bought one of those and found it didn't fit as well as a 3/8th drive socket and extension, in fact, it didn't fit at all. You need to be able to rotate the propshaft as the socket will only fit at one point so it's a bit laborious but not difficult. Hardest one is the rear UJ on the front prop as the crossmember gets in the way.
Martyuk wrote:
the britpart shaft wasn't phased the same as the LR original one...
I bought a Bearmach front propshaft from Rimmers as my original had wear in the splines on the sliding joint. That also had the phasing wrong. On the original there was a spline missing so it could only be put back together with the correct phasing but the replacement didn't so could go together any way. I just split it and phased it correctly. That probably explains why the phasing isn't mentioned in RAVE for the P38 but it is in RAVE for the Classic (which doesn't have the missing spline)
Either that and just conclude that your car is slightly incontinent, live with it and just top up the fluids every so often. It's nice to have a leak free car but unless it is serious then the effort involved in curing the leak will outweigh the pleasure and costs. If you can see it and the source is obvious, deal with it but otherwise don't waste your life trying to find it. Mine has had a slight oil leak ever since the engine rebuild which I suspect is from the rear of the valley gasket (the bit that I did and not V8 Developments) but it needs a litre of oil about every 5,000 miles so I just live with it. As an oil leak is now part of the MoT I just crawled underneath with degreaser and a pressure washer before it went in for the last test.
I've got the original steering box, it doesn't leak and is perfectly dry and has done 368,000 miles. So either you've never driven in a straight line in your life and have worn it out or it isn't PAS fluid. The pipes can rust/chafe though and leak but the steering boxes don't.
Yup, same stuff. If it's not even reaching the stick, if you start the engine and turn the steering from lock to lock, the reservoir will be filled with aerated fluid.