Shape and dimensions would be the same but there are two styles, 3 bar and 5 bar.

That'll be me then. I can't use Gilbertd on there like I do everywhere else, that username has a lifetime ban (for something that they never have told me what I did). Where in Lincs are you, I'm just outside Peterborough but Lincs is a pretty big county.......

It'll probably go for no more than 3 or 400. I can't make out the badge on the tailgate but the interior colour and wood on the dash looks like it is some sort of special edition even if it is only a 4.0 litre. Looks to only need a bumper, headlight and maybe a bonnet at worst. A weekend of tin bashing should get it sorted.

No Morat, different thing. If a mod deletes a spam message then the heading shows Opening Time - No posts unless they hide it first then delete it (or delete it and immediately post something else). This is where from the main page the filled in blob shows there are unread posts in one or other forum. You then go into that forum, the unread post has a filled in blob next to it so you read it. When you go back to the main page, the blob is still filled showing unread posts but when you go into the forum, there aren't any as you've just read them and the blob is now not filled in within the forum.

The Hackery forum was started when there was talk about hacking the BeCM and firmware for some of the other subsystems and it was decided to keep it private so people wouldn't start playing with things the didn't understand and screw them up in a big way. You only have to look at some of the suggestions on the dark side about fiddling with the immobiliser/central locking, etc to 'improve' it to see just how stupid some people can be. Typical little knowledge being a dangerous thing activities. However, if memory serves me right, Davew has been involved in a bit of software digging so access to it would be worthwhile (even though there's been nothing posted in there for months now).

You won't. Hackery is only visible to moderators and the LPG section is, as it says, only for Gordon, Brian, me and Simon. Pretty much obsolete now that the hosting for LPGForum has been changed and the software updated but it was used to discuss the way forward and whether it was going to be incorporated into this site or run alongside it.

This is what I see. The Hackery forum was added for people who wanted to get deeply involved in reprogramming various software bits and it all went completely over my head (but I suspect I can see it as I'm a moderator) but it then seems to become a private forum for moderators and the LPG Forum one was added when it looked like we would be taking over the LPGForum (www.lpgforum.co,uk) as the previous owner was talking about closing it and was a closed forum for a few of us.

Ah, Hackery might only be accessible by mods, it appears below the others along with another one about the LPG Forum which is only available to a few of us. I assumed it was something my end as LPGForum is the same, things aren't automatically marked as read, I have to manually do it.

Seems odd that it's only just started for you though, I wonder if Gordon has been playing......

The reducer you have is rated at 380 bhp so is easily capable of running your car so changing it for something else isn't going to give any benefits. What it will do is cause you lots of grief with pipes being in a different place whereas swapping in a new Bigas unit will be a straight swap. For the difference in price I would always suggest a complete new reducer over a rebuild kit. No struggling with seized screws and you know the mechanical parts are new too and not just the rubber bits. I'd say fit a new reducer and then calibrate the system (which may require a slight increase in gas pressure or just tweaking the map).

It's always been like that for me and not just on Opening Time, also on Oily Bits and Electrikery (although not on Hackery). All I've ever done is read the threads then click on Mark as Read before coming out of it. It seems to affect some people and not others and the theory is it's something to do with the operating system and browser being used.

Mine's got the good quality orange poly bushes and I think they are starting to signs of wear. Still handles fine and no wandering around but it just doesn't quite feel as tight as it has. They've been there for the best part of 100,000 miles though but if there's a Radius Arm bush changing Spring Camp then sign me up for it and I'll have a set of cheaper, better, OE bushes pressed in.

Huh? The steering damper is right at the front, in front of the axle and below the radiator. How can it get anywhere near the sump? Or do you mean the harmonic balancer, the big round lump of cast iron? That should be well away from the sump.

That's your problem then. CDL switch not doing anything. Ordinarily that would change state depending on which way you turn the key so with it not working you can't sync as you can't turn the key both ways. Simple way to test the CDL switch with the Nano is to just sit in the car and push the sill locking button down.

If the fob and BeCM aren't paired the BeCM won't receive a valid code. It'll receive something but ignore it. The most likely scenario is that the key switch is playing up in the latch so although you are turning the key, the BeCM doesn't realise it. You can check the operation of the switches with the Nano by going into BeCM, Diagnostics, Doors - Locking and it will show you the change of state as each switch is operated.

It's only the US spec ones that have 4, two pre-cat and two post-cat. Same as only US ones have the Secondary Air Injection junk on them too.

What colour interior as George in the Philippines needs various interior trim plastics.

There's no such thing as a generic for all years, GEMS uses 5-0V Titania sensor while Thor uses a 0-1V Zirconia. Not sure what the difference is between an early GEMS and later GEMS other than the plug though but there must be a difference.

Not that warm here either! My next trip is scheduled for around 15th February so I'm pretty sure I'll see some white crispy stuff on the way down. At least you've got the tube sorted, when will you be home to get it properly sorted?

Pulling the HEVAC out can make things easier, otherwise remove the complete facia surround and the radio comes out with it.

Thtat's right, take the bolt out, slip it between the inner door frame and outer door skin and put the bolt back so it passes through the hole. I've found that sticking it to one of those magnetic things used for fishing dropped nuts and bolts out of the bowels of something makes guiding it into place easier.

There was a more recent thread on there where someone found the actual part is available from Turner. See https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/326868-coolant-leak-cylinder-head-top-hose.html