Very nice job except for the snorkel. If the water is deep enough to get drawn into the air intake, it's deep enough to drown the ignition coils and spark plugs (not to mention getting inside and drowning the BeCM) so isn't really needed.

My local factors had a generic sidelight bulb holder which fits in the hole but the connector was wrong for the plug. A bit of carving away of the plastic made it fit.

Not necessarily, I've got a set of deep ones too. Got the coils, LPG injectors, alternator, PAS pump and AC compressor off it so far so I'm down to the engine. Head should be off by tomorrow evening so I can drop it in to be skimmed on Saturday. If I get it in first thing, they may even be able to get it done by lunchtime. No gasket set yet either......

Dead easy to get to it on a GEMS, although it does have to be routed behind the alternator rather than under it. Not got a Thor here to have a look at I'm afraid, all 3 parked outside are GEMS, but I would suggest that it does need a clip. Rather than Jubilee you'd be better off with fuel hose clips or the springy ones used on LPG hose. Thinking about it, the throttle body can be removed on a Thor, why not take it off, change the hoses and put it back on?

I believe you are right, that would have been Clive.

I used my engine crane to change the engine on a Toyota MR2. Used it first to lower the unbolted engine down to the ground, then used it to lift the body up. Slid old engine out and new one in, then lowered the body back down and lifted the engine up into place.

I'll own up and admit I very nearly bought one exactly the same as that (yes, an Orvis with real leather and wood that somehow the Yanks manage to make look like plastic), except it didn't have the scrapes on the front or the mangled filler flap. But I decided that at £800 it was too expensive so over 4 grand is just plain silly.

If you paste a link into the box marked Image above, it'll show like the second one has.

For the first one I had to open it, right click and select copy image location and paste that into the box.

I must admit, it looks even nicer than the H&H. How about a picture of all 3?

Considering you own one example of probably the 3 most desirable P38s ever produced, anything else is only going to be a disappointment.

How to post pictures is here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/193-archives-and-posting-pictures-documents but rather than photobucket most now use imgur.com as it's free.

Isn't there something on the Thor engine where there's a plug for the coils and another plug that should go somewhere else that can be interchanged? Have you connected everything up right?

Any generic OBD code reader should tell you which cylinder is misfiring with a P030x code, although you might be unlucky and just get P0300 which means multiple misfires. The price of the Nanocom keeps going up as it's priced in Euros. When I got mine the pound was worth almost 1.5 Euros, now it's down to 1.08.....

3 and 5 plug leads reversed? Easily done as they are next to each other.

Have you bought a Westminster now?

It's definitely outwards, it's much louder underneath the car and no different with the oil filler off. I was expecting to be able to see flames blowing out of the gap and was a bit disappointed when I couldn't. That would have told me which pot it was too but using the infra red thermometer on the manifold was a pretty good clue and pulling the HT lead definitely confirmed it. There's no immediate rush for it but I'll probably make a start on it Sunday and then do a bit in the evenings. Got to order a gasket set anyway and I suspect the head is going to need skimming too. It'll be interesting to get it apart as the engine was rebuilt 3 or 4 years ago. It's already got a stud kit fitted and when he bought it he was told it has a Kent cam and stage 2 heads. It's certainly quick, even running on 7 and a half.

Mate bought me his car over the other evening. Despite running fine it sounds more like a traction engine than a V8. He's had it for just over a year and it has always had a slight noise but recently it has been getting worse. He's already replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets thinking it was blowing from the head to manifold joint but that made no difference. I was starting to suspect a head gasket blowing out of the side of the block. See what you think..... https://youtu.be/dKEqPY5rX7A

Unplug the RH multiway connector to the instrument cluster and give it a dose of contact cleaner. It's driven by the engine speed pulse train from the engine ECU so I doubt that is wrong......

Problem with that is that the fob won't work as it's been coded to the car it was ordered for and can't be coded to a different car. Far simpler to just get the handle alone and swap the lock barrel over. Much cheaper too https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ALR8122

Don't forget that you've got two separate circuits. One needs the normal pump the pedal to push fluid through while the other one just needs the pedal pressing with the ignition on so the pressure from the pump does the work.

Dropping the subframe is the best bet and you've got the gear for doing it already. Just unbolt it and let it sit on the floor then use your chain block to lift the front of the car off it.

Told you it was possible. Was it fairly simple or a bit of a pita?