For starters you don't have a master cylinder but you do have the brake modulator. I'd start by giving it a full fluid flush, if you've never done it, it may well have never had one. That will be easier if you get the car up in the air on axle stands so that will give you the opportunity to check the calipers and sliders while you are at it. It might also be worth pulling the reservoir off the modulator and making sure it is nice and clean in there too. Very unlikely to be reluctor rings as they would cause an ABS fault.
Unless it has always been sitting halfway through it's travel, then it's unlikely that it has seized, it's not going to suddenly seize while running, so a lack of volts would seem to be the most likely cause.
Whenever I did anything like that on a GT6/Herald/Spitfire, I used to take the transmission tunnel out (only a few bolts) so you could get to the bellhousing bolts from inside the car. Made it even better if it was raining...... I once changed a clutch on a Spitfire doing everything from inside.
God that's awful. But only to be expected in Essex I suppose.....
We've told you how to put pics up but as you use an iPad, it's a bit different to most of us (and you being a computer numpty doesn't help either).....
2 of us once changed the engine on a Morris Marina using a lump of 4x4 fence post and a couple of rope slings. Known as the great white hunter method......
Back in the late 70's I was running the remains of a Hillman Minx. One big end got so bad I dropped the sump off and pulled the head. Took the piston, con rod and pushrods out of that cylinder. Then coated a jubilee clip in gasket goo and put it round the crank journal to keep the oil pressure in and ran it like that for a month or so. Then my local scrappie got another Minx in, paid £25 for the engine and dropped it in the boot. Drove to my Uncle's place who had a hoist on a sliding I beam in his garage. Reversed the car in, hooked the engine in the boot up to the hoist, lifted it out and slid it to one side. Turned the car round, pulled the old engine out, slid that over to one side and sat it next to the 'new' one. Lifted that up, slid it over and dropped it in. £25 and about 4 hours work, things were just so much easier in those days......
500 quid?? I remember when you could go into a scrappie and get an engine for £50......
Personally I'd give him a bell, the longer you leave it the more chance he has to find out that they are a specific engine so not as common as others.
FQJ102292PMA, the one at £36 is drivers door for a LHD car. If you google search the part number you'll see it's listed as LHD LH door.
Once you've had all that lot done, you may find that it doesn't wobble on big bumps any more. You'll be well pissed off if it still does though....
Bollocks, just cross referenced the part number and you're right. Oh well, at least I'll have spare innards...... The picture of the expensive one looked completely different to ours though.
As some may know, the P38 door latches, you know, the ones with the microswitches that fail and lock you out, are the same as the MG TF. Rimmers have a one day sale on ex-factory stock of MG TF parts which includes brand new door latches at £24 for the RH and £36 for the LH. I've just ordered a RH one as a spare before posting this so none of you lot get in and clear out their stock. See https://rimmerbros.com/ItemList--MGF-Body-Fittings-Sale--m-19112?src=MGF18
Oh come on Simon, that's always fun. I, very occasionally, go into the marble floor and glass cathedral that is our local Merc main dealer to ask about bits for her indoors's 2004 C180K coupe. They greet you enthusiastically then immediately lose interest when you ask for the parts department and send you outside round to the slightly grubby door marked Trade. I've only ever bought anything in there once, a breather hose which is renowned for dropping to bits on the C180 engine. I went in once and asked for a fuel filter for the same car, the man said, I'll go and get you a price. I stood there thinking, I don't want a price i just want to buy one. He came back looking very pleased with himself to tell me that yes they had one in stock (I should bloody hope so for a service item?) at £98 plus VAT. Told him it would remain in stock then and drove to the other side of town to my usual supplier who had a genuine Bosch one in stock, for £13 including VAT.......
davew wrote:
Yet still new diesels/petrol are to be banned from 2032..... any bets that it still won't have happened by 2042 ?
I'd be willing to put £100 on it not happening. A recent article in the Institute of Engineers and Technologists magazine said that the power infrastructure will collapse by 2025 if take up of EVs is even close to the Governments figures. Amuses me that they are plugging smart meters and saving electricity to reduce the CO2 released into the atmosphere but at the same time encouraging people to use a lot more......
I've not heard of anyone manage to get close to 30 mpg from a diesel no matter how carefully they drive it.. The guy I bought my Classic LSE from replaced it with a P38 DSE and never got better than 24 mpg. He'd got so used to the power of a 4.2 litre V8 on LPG doing about 15mpg but with the cost equivalent of twice that, he found he was thrashing the DSE mercilessly to try to achieve the same performance so it was costing him more to run.
Might as well while you've got the hub out. Seems the bottom one wears first which puts more stress on the top one that that follows shortly afterwards.
If you really want to protect it from the elements, one of these https://www.carcoon.com/carcoon-double-skin-outdoor&length=468&make_id=80&model_id=847#listing (if they do one big enough). I went to Somerset last weekend to collect an MGB that had been stored in one for the last year. Not only does it keep the car dry and protected but it even has a built in trickle charger to keep the battery topped up. Not cheap but switched it off, unzipped it, got in the car and it fired up immediately so I could just drive it onto a trailer.
I'd put axle stands under the axles to take the weight off the tyres so they don't get flat spots and then fit calibration blocks into the bumpstops so the weight of the car is taken on them and not on the bumpstops themselves. Drop the suspension so the car then sits on the blocks. Ordinarily I wouldn't bother with oil down the bores but having recently had an engine rust up due to a valve being open, despite the car being in a garage, it's probably not a bad idea. If it needs to be locked, which I assume it will be, you've got two choices. Hang a battery conditioner on it to keep the battery topped up or lock the car with the bonnet open, disconnect the battery and close the bonnet. When the time comes to connect everything up again, open the drivers door with the key, open the bonnet, lock the drivers door and reconnect the battery. That way it is in the same state when you reconnect as it was when you disconnected, even the fobs should still be in sync.
You can replace the entire pipes or cut back and extend the existing ones. If you extend, then you'll need to put joins in. Do not use the ones you can pick up from near enough everywhere with the blue plastic ferrules, they will leak. You either need to get the genuine LR ones but they are around a tenner each. I tried some of these (as my partner works at RS Components and gets 20% discount) https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pneumatic-straight-tube-to-tube-adaptors/0812106/ on mine where the pipes had been trimmed so many times that they were getting too short. Rated at twice the maximum pressure the EAS works at and not one single leak. A few of those and a couple of metres of 6mm pipe will get you sorted.
Get yourself a valve block rebuild kit (with the black O rings, not the orange ones) and an EAS cable and the free RSW software and you will be sorted as far as EAS is concerned.
Welcome to the forum, it was me that sent you the PM on the other side but I can't use this username over there, it was banned for life! Where in the country are you? There may be someone nearby who can give you a hand.
Scrub that, the one marked as for the Disco 2 and Freelander 2 is actually for the later Freelander with the TD4 engine not the early one with the L series. As that disc only covers 2 cars and not 3 like the others, it also has all the TSBs for all models. The disc that includes the Classic and Disco 1 is for Freelander up to model year 01, the second disc (marked as Freelander 2) is actually for models from 01 to 06.
I've just uploaded an iso image file of it to Google drive so you can download it from https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OuGxcgYOKj3E11ATmMRcAryejHzRZZHI