Mines working fine.....

(if you ignore the 4 strips on the rear window heater that don't do anything and the front heated screen that only clears a few strips)

The lump of steel goes between the two parts of the door skin and the bolt that holds the exterior door handle in place goes through it. It's so you can do the bolt up tight without it crushing the inner skin against the outer skin. An easy one to lose as 9 times out of 10, you remove the bolt to remove the door handle and it drops into the bottom of the door. The plastic clip looks familiar but I can't for the life of me remember where I've seen it.

There have been so many old wive's tales built up over the years that most can be ignored. The engine has been around for a very long time and has been used in numerous different cars so if it was as bad as some make out, it would have been killed off years ago. Yes, neglect the cooling system, allow it to overheat and it will blow a head gasket, but so will any other engine. It's much like the stories that the 4.6 will slip a liner at every available opportunity but it happens less on the 4.0 litre. Why? Not because the liner is thinner due to the larger bore (as the bore is the same, it is the longer stroke that gives the increased capacity) as has been suggested but because they sold less 4.0 litre engined cars so less will fail. Much of this has been spread around by RPi who exaggerated the problem to convince people to spend a fortune of their custom cast blocks.

Anyway, the gurgle from inside the block is a sure sign that you still have air in there and until that is out then the coolant level will keep on dropping. Once up to temperature there should be pressure in the system, the hoses should be firm but not rock hard. If it doesn't pressurise at all, then you have a leak somewhere and you won't be able to bleed the air out as the coolant leaking will be replaced with air.

A few years ago the Top Gear boys crossed south America in different vehicles, one being a very rough Range Rover Classic. At the end of it the verdict was that the most unreliable car in the world was the most reliable car in the world (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-q-3VK4JgE0).

True, I forgot that one. The rocker cover bolts are 8mm, 12 point and on earlier cars (not sure about later ones) the exhaust manifold to head bolts are 12mm 12 point.

Methinks you worry too much..... From what you describe I would say it is pretty much certain that you do not have a blown head gasket. The coolant passages run at each end of the heads so a blow between cylinders 1, 2, 7 or 8 into the coolant passage would cause a loss of coolant. However, it would also cause the spark plug in the offending cylinder to be steam cleaned and it would likely drop to 7 cylinders at idle. It would also pressurise the cooling system to the point that it would spit all the coolant out and overheat within 10 minutes or so of running. The only other way of coolant getting into the combustion chambers is around the outside edge of a liner but again, you'd be seeing cleaned, if not rusty, spark plugs and pressurising to the point where it would blow coolant out of the overflow if not start bursting hoses. So, the black carbon on the plugs says you don't have coolant getting into a combustion chamber either through a gasket or a weeping liner.

In cold weather you will get puddles under the tailpipes. If you are feeling really brave, dip your finger in it and taste it. If it tastes of anti freeze, then it is coolant but I suspect you'll find it doesn't, it's almost certainly condensation.

Fortunately, we don't have the secondary air injection system, that is only fitted to US spec cars, so plugs are fairly easy to get to. and they don't get in the way when it comes to taking the heads off.

There are numerous 'recommended' ways of burping the cooling system that have varying degrees of success (reading some of the threads over on the other forum, you'd think it was some sort of black art). I have never had to burp a cooling system, I just fill it up but I do have my own way of doing it. Disconnect the bleed hose from the top of the radiator and poke a piece of wire in to make sure it is clear. Blow through the tube to make sure that, and the small hole into the filler neck on the header tank, is also clear. If you have a blockage in this bleed circuit, you will never be able to bleed all the air out. Fill the header tank to the top, let it settle for a few minutes and keep topping up. Once the level stops dropping, squeeze the top hose, put your finger over the bleed nipple on the radiator and release the top hose. You are squeezing air out of the bleed nipple and sucking coolant in from the header tank. Keep doing this, and keep topping up the header tank if you need to, until coolant comes out of the bleed nipple and refit the hose. If you can hear the coolant sloshing around inside the engine, there is still air in there so carry on until you can no longer hear it. Now refit the hose to the bleed nipple and carry on the squeezing of the top hose only this time put your finger over the hole inside the header tank neck where the bleed hose is attached. A couple more squeezes should see a stream of coolant coming out of this hole every time you squeeze the top hose. Now, and only now, start the engine. The thermostat will be closed so all coolant flow will be through the heater matrix. Raise the engine revs to 1500 or so and you should see the last of the air from the heater hoses bubble up into the header tank. There should also be a constant stream of coolant out of the bleed pipe into the header. Let it idle for a few minutes and there should be no more air coming out so you can put the header tank cap on. Job done.

If you still decide you want to change the head gaskets, an 6 point 8mm 1/4" drive socket may help with the heat shield screws and ARP studs are definitely worth it. No need to remove the fan and viscous coupling so you won't need your 36mm spanner either.

Having driven a DSE they change up at much higher revs, about 3,000 rpm, compared with under 2,000 for a V8 if driving gently. The same gearbox is used on the 4.0 litre V8 as the factory diesel and the box on a 4.6 is much the same just stronger. I wonder if the ECU can be reprogrammed or the ECU swapped with one from a factory diesel?

Unless there's 2 white P38s in the Philippines with CNL 322 on their plates, looks like it is.

Yup, OldShep's P38 was bought by one of my neighbours at the last house. He's still loving it even if he has got an intermittent boot release so he's got used to dropping the rear seat and getting in through there. He's bringing it round after Christmas so we can see if it's the button or the latch that only works sometimes. I suspect his new one is going to be a bit quicker with the TDV8 under the bonnet and in grey with the Stormer kit it's one of the few Sports that doesn't look dated.

Blimey, that's more than we get here sometimes. Although I saw three others yesterday while out and about around Peterborough. Two on personal plates that I've never seen before (one in Serpentine Green shopping centre car park and one on the A15) and another that I've seen at odd times.

Prosperous? But we all own P38's, they'll eat any excess we have. Best wishes to all and I hope any problems will be easily sorted.

Absolutely, a spare starter and alternator, working on the principle that an auto can't be bump started and with the reliance on 'lectric, a dead battery will stop you in your tracks too, serpentine belt and a spare idler pulley (so if any of them let go I can nick the bearing out of it). Then there's the bodge it back together kit of Schrader valves and a metre of 8mm air pipe, tyre pump, lengths of assorted sized hose (along with self amalgamating tape and hose clips), coil of steel binding wire, pack of tie wraps, bag of assorted sized nuts and bolts, 10m of electric wire, male and female spade terminals and crimp tool, PVC tape, gaffer tape, throttle position sensor, crank position sensor, multimeter, spare bulbs and fuses, butane soldering iron and solder, gloves and a couple of cleaning rags, ancient Panasonic Toughbook with RAVE and the software for my LPG system and the Nanocom of course.

With the LPG tank in the spare wheel well the spare lives in the boot and most of this lot sit inside the spare wheel while the rest is in the space where the original jack and wheelbrace would have lived. Then there is the toolbox (where the sub and CD player would live if I had one) and a 3 tonne trolley jack.

If the bolt has burnt it's way through the board, you might be able to bodge it enough to get a decent connection without cutting the links by wrapping it with copper wire under the head. Alternatively, use some thick copper wire, 2.5mm single core house wiring should be up to it if doubled up, between the bolt and the live side of one of the Maxi fuses. I have a feeling that a diesel doesn't use all of them so there will be a vacant space to poke the wire into. To solder the links needs a pretty hefty soldering iron and that isn't something I would want to tackle at the side of the road.

You should be able to see a bent tag easily enough just by turning it over slowly. It'll be the one that isn't in line with all the others and will have a shiny mark on it where it has been touching the sensor.

Not appearing in the post but can be seen. Never seen anything like that I must admit, maybe someone else will recognise it.

How to post pictures is in this thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/193-archives-and-posting-pictures-documents although I've given a bit more detail in the PM I've just sent you.

When I rebuilt my engine about 80k ago, I replaced the crank sensor with an intermotor one. There wasn't anything wrong with the one that was in there and I've kept it in the boot as a spare but I've had no problems with either.

Is it the crank sensor or could it be the throttle position sensor? That will cause a lack of revs as the throttle butterfly is open allowing lots of air in but the throttle position sensor is telling the ECU that the throttle is closed. Giving it a good welly may just shift some muck off the end of the track.

Now you know why I carry everything except for stuff I would never be able to use at the side of the road. Can't open the picture but having seen a couple of burnt fuseboxes I've got a pretty good idea of what you are dealing with. With a bit of creative bodgery you should be able to get it running enough to get you home though.

HEVAC often doesn't connect first time, hit the red cross to back out of it and then go back in. I've also noticed that if you go to Faults first again it fails to connect but will connect if you go to one of the other buttons (Inputs is a good one to try) and it works.

Nope,but where were you testing it? Internal and air temperature 45 degrees? Something a bit strange going on there.

Huh? But it's driven off a 5V rail so how can a resistor increase the voltage?