You've got it but it doesn't go into lockdown, it just re-enables the immobiliser. On an early car, if you unlocked the car, opened a door but didn't start the car within 60 seconds it would re-enable the immobiliser (but not the alarm), when you turned the key to start, the starter wouldn't do anything and it came up with Enter Code or Press Remote on the dash. You pressed the unlock button on the remote and that allowed you to start the car. If the fob wasn't working for whatever reason, you had to enter the EKA code. Mine was like that for at least the first 5 years of ownership (until I bought the Nanocom) and I got into the habit of pressing unlock just before putting the key in whether I needed to or not. On the later ones like yours, you unlock the car and no matter how long it was between unlocking and trying to start the car, as soon as you put the key in the ignition the coil causes the fob to transmit negating the need for you to press the button, it did it for you. As soon as you turn off passive immobilisation then it doesn't cause the fob to transmit as there is no need for it to as it isn't going to be immobilised anyway. All fine except it has been found that on some cars it won't allow you to sync the fob if passive immobilisation is turned off.

Hmm, didn't you think that the battery was a bit loose and rattling around? A 2000 should have passive sync enabled so the fob is caused to transmit when the key is put in the ignition by the coil around the lock. So when you put the key in, the LED on the fob should flash. However, it won't if you have turned off passive immobilisation in the BeCM and that can also affect manually syncing it. You need to hold the button on the fob down for a couple of seconds until the LED flashes quickly if doing it in the door.

If it still doesn't work then you could well have a problem with one of the latch switches.

MarkTr wrote:

Gil-- is there a video or photo sequence which shows this resolder process.

Not that I've seen I'm afraid.

I took the back off and positioned the battery so the edge (+) touched the single leaf spring and the bottom of the battery (-) pressed down on the three leaf springs. Pressed each button and no joy.

Battery? Singular? It needs 6V from two CR2023 batteries in series so just using one will only give it 3V and it won't work.

So are you saying that the three grounding leaf springs are probably not making good ground to the board and I need to remove- flip it over and reflow solder on the backside to the through pins of the grounding ring?

Yes, you've got it. Although all three go to ground it uses the contact as a jumper to connect three separate ground tracks together

If you cannot use the NANO to read the EKA from the BECM memory because it is locked out ---I wonder why it is set up for you to print in the EKA. It must be if you buy an unlocked BECM and can load your original.

No idea, ask Colin who designed the Nanocom, he may know why the feature is there.

Guess I will have to try my luck with my local dealer. Although they no longer providing programmed key fobs for our P38's- I hope they still provide the EKA. For now, I have disabled the EKA with my NANO. But to turn off the immobilizer with the NANO I need the EKA

A main dealer over here can connect to the LR database and supply a printout for the car from the VIN giving the EKA, radio code, lockset barcode and various other details on the car. They will only supply it if you take in a registration document in your name though. You can't turn off the immobiliser, only passive immobilisation. Passive immobilisation is where it sets the immobiliser if you don't start the car within 60 seconds of unlocking it.

Marty will no doubt confirm but I have a feeling the Nano can only read the EKA and FOB codes if the BeCM is unlocked. At the factory it will have been programmed and locked so some features can't be accessed.

If the LED on the fob isn't lighting up, then it isn't transmitting. One fault is that the large round terminal is soldered to the pcb in two places and one place can suffer from dry solder joints. To re-solder it involves the board being removed from the case which sometimes is fairly straightforward just by levering the two halves apart. Other times it puts up a real fight. I resorted to slotting a Stanley knife blade into the joint and squeezing the fob and blade in a vice on one.

The clip will be related to the knee panel being off. I've found those clips laying around above the knee panel and for a while couldn't work out where they had come from so the a) fall off regularly, and b) as the vent doesn't fall out of the dash, don't do a lot anyway.

I had a pair of tweeter panels as the car a mate bought had the panels but someone had removed the tweeters from behind them. I got a pair of panels complete with tweeters for him so had the panels kicking around. I'm trying to remember either where I put them or if I threw them away thinking I would never need them......

Removing the motor is easy enough, it slides on, so a sideways push and it comes out.

As for the bits Aragorn has found, the strips, or at least one of them, appear to be from the inside of the runners that the window slides in. If you slam the door with the window open, does it rattle? If it does, that's because the runner has lost it's rubber. The lump of metal looks to be the clip that holds the air vent in place on the end of the dash, so what it is doing inside the door is anyone's guess.....

More to the point, when you changed the batteries in the fob did you check that the contact was lining up with the contact of the battery holder. Sometimes the battery hold has to be in just the right position to make contact.

It doesn't crank if it isn't in P or N, it does nothing (which can be really worrying when you turn the key and absolutely nothing happens).

Doesn't a Thor crank but not fire if it has lost sync? I don't think you get the lack of MIL like on a GEMS, but it may just need to be re-synced with the nano.

MarkTr wrote:

The interesting thing is that the only change I made between my first ride and this second ride was to fill that tire to the specified 38 psi-- it was at 28 psi on my first ride with no wobble.

I pulled off the right front wheel which felt like the problem child

If it's a front wheel it should be at 28 psi, it's 28 front, 38 rear.

Death wobble is more like a motorcyclists tank slapper and does make the car almost impossible to control and is caused by slop in steering and suspension. A slight vibration through the seat of your pants is something at the rear end, rear wheel balance, prop UJs, wheels not seated properly, etc. Although the harmonic damper was fitted to the later Classics, it wasn't fitted to very early P38s but there was a TSB issued recommending they were fitted to any where the owner complained of vibration and shortly afterwards they became standard on all. I know of one owner (MikeinFrance) who left his off as he was in a hurry, couldn't see what it achieved and was bloody awkward to fit on his own. Found the car tried to remove his fillings at anything over 60 mph!

The wheel nuts can corrode under the stainless covers which usually means hammering a socket onto them as you have found. Once off you've got a few options, cut the stainless covers off, squeeze them in a vice to get the flats back or buy new ones. Wheels corroded to the hubs is also not that uncommon and getting them off can take quite a time. Once off, use a wire brush on the hubs and inside of the wheel to clean the layer of corrosion off (I've found a cup type one in a power drill works best). Make sure you clean out the centre hole in the wheel too. Simply doing this can stop, or at least reduce, some vibrations as the wheels will be running true.

Whether it applies or not it is how the data is used that is important not that it is there. Anyone that registers here gives their personal details freely and provided Gordon doesn't decide to sell those details on to someone else, there isn't a problem If you choose to publish what could be considered personal information (birthday, etc) then that is immediately placed in the public domain. So is no longer considered personal but public. What isn't allowed is something I need to take up with another owners club I'm involved in. They send out a newsletter by email but looking at the To list, it shows every email address for all 200 odd recipients. That email address has been given in order that the club can contact them, not to publish it to everyone else who may then use it for other purposes. The advice we got at work under those circumstances is to send an email to yourself and put the other recipients in the Bcc list.

That took me three attempts at spotting the difference, especially as the modified one is the first picture....

on my original one it was impossible to flash the lights when they were on as that put main beam on instead but the stalk was all limp and floppy anyway. I pulled that apart and found that the white plastic bit was actually broken so got a replacement. It's much better but still has very little difference in movement between flash and dip so I may well do the plastic milk bottle addition. I do actually use the overlimit setting at times so don't want to do the Sloth mod. My original one didn't have the buttons for the trip computer either (plod obviously didn't think it necessary) but the wiring was there in the loom. As this was in pre-Nanocom days I had a chat with my local indie (now gone unfortunately) who plugged in his testbook and enabled the trip computer in the BeCM. Quite amusing to see the average fuel consumption and speed for the first 200,000 odd miles of it's life.

davew wrote:

Anyway from your '8472' you may be a Trekkie (?)

Or he might be due to celebrate his 47th birthday on the 8th of April......

The alternative would be to refurb your existing seats. The late Orangebean did his and they came up looking like new, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/305-resurrection-vogue-se-a?page=12#pid6657

With the HEVAC out you should be able to pull the whole facia surround enough to get your hand in there and unplug the wiring. But it should come out far enough anyway as there is sufficient slack on the cables to allow the radio to be pulled clear of the dash and the plugs pulled out.

“JMC is no longer with us. He didn't feel the site guidelines should apply to him because he has a car far better than anything I could ever dream of owning and I'm jealous.....

The brake pedal does feel different to a car with a conventional braking system as it is pressure sensitive rather than movement sensitive. That means it will feel a bit wooden until you get used to it but the main cause of a lack of feel is the choice of brake pads. It's no good fitting hard, performance, pads and expecting good brakes until you get them nicely warmed up. Even using standard Delphi pads I've never managed to get the brakes to fade so harder pads are just a waste of money.

The car tax is one issue, go for pre-March 2001 so it's on the fixed rate rather than the sliding scale based on emissions and there might be a flaw in your insurance plan. My daughter tried to get a Classic policy on a Mk1 MR2 but nobody would do it until she was 24, so they may well baulk at a 17 year old. As said, would he slow down, or even stop, if he heard a funny noise or would he just turn the stereo up and carry on?