That's true, didn't realise the Bigas was such an oddball. While you are at it, if you are changing the coolant plumbing, reroute the hoses so the reducer is in series with the heater matrix. Quicker warm up and a heater that will work at full tilt when needed.

Simon is the best person to advise which one to go for.

Sorry, I lied. The seat back has a headrest on it too.

And now the whole thread has gone.......

Although that was almost certainly because you used profanity. That is something I've never understood about Americans. I used to do a lot of video editing work and would sometimes use a video forum. Yanks were constantly popping up asking how they could make a copy of a Hollywood film but edit out any swearing so they could let their kids watch it. They would quite happily let their kids watch people having sex, or shooting each other or blowing each other up but no way would they allow their kids to hear someone say arse.

I've got a pair of seat bases, a passenger side backrest and a seat base with the cover removed but it is all there. Passenger and drivers seats are the same except for the hole in the side where the armrest bolts on. I wanted a passenger seat base in the same cloth as mine to replace the well worn drivers seat base (as the bases are interchangeable). Bought two seats on eBay and paid full price but told the seller I only wanted the bases and that kept the postage down. Then found they were the wrong colour. Then bought a complete interior in the right colour, didn't bother with the rear seat when I went to collect it but got the rest (including all the interior plastics). I've got the drivers seat (fitted with my well worn base) which I would want to keep but you are welcome to whatever you need from the rest. Don't think I've got headrests though.

I've got a pair of complete cloth seat bases that the picture on eBay showed to be the same as mine but they weren't when they arrived. Seller insisted he had sent the same ones as in the photograph even when I sent him pictures showing they were completely different. They are 3 bar and you are welcome to them to cut them up. Alternatively I've got a 3 bar cloth seat base cover that is already off the seat which would probably be easier to post.

It's still there, but it has only been 3 minutes.......

Shape and dimensions would be the same but there are two styles, 3 bar and 5 bar.

That'll be me then. I can't use Gilbertd on there like I do everywhere else, that username has a lifetime ban (for something that they never have told me what I did). Where in Lincs are you, I'm just outside Peterborough but Lincs is a pretty big county.......

It'll probably go for no more than 3 or 400. I can't make out the badge on the tailgate but the interior colour and wood on the dash looks like it is some sort of special edition even if it is only a 4.0 litre. Looks to only need a bumper, headlight and maybe a bonnet at worst. A weekend of tin bashing should get it sorted.

No Morat, different thing. If a mod deletes a spam message then the heading shows Opening Time - No posts unless they hide it first then delete it (or delete it and immediately post something else). This is where from the main page the filled in blob shows there are unread posts in one or other forum. You then go into that forum, the unread post has a filled in blob next to it so you read it. When you go back to the main page, the blob is still filled showing unread posts but when you go into the forum, there aren't any as you've just read them and the blob is now not filled in within the forum.

The Hackery forum was started when there was talk about hacking the BeCM and firmware for some of the other subsystems and it was decided to keep it private so people wouldn't start playing with things the didn't understand and screw them up in a big way. You only have to look at some of the suggestions on the dark side about fiddling with the immobiliser/central locking, etc to 'improve' it to see just how stupid some people can be. Typical little knowledge being a dangerous thing activities. However, if memory serves me right, Davew has been involved in a bit of software digging so access to it would be worthwhile (even though there's been nothing posted in there for months now).

You won't. Hackery is only visible to moderators and the LPG section is, as it says, only for Gordon, Brian, me and Simon. Pretty much obsolete now that the hosting for LPGForum has been changed and the software updated but it was used to discuss the way forward and whether it was going to be incorporated into this site or run alongside it.

This is what I see. The Hackery forum was added for people who wanted to get deeply involved in reprogramming various software bits and it all went completely over my head (but I suspect I can see it as I'm a moderator) but it then seems to become a private forum for moderators and the LPG Forum one was added when it looked like we would be taking over the LPGForum (www.lpgforum.co,uk) as the previous owner was talking about closing it and was a closed forum for a few of us.

Ah, Hackery might only be accessible by mods, it appears below the others along with another one about the LPG Forum which is only available to a few of us. I assumed it was something my end as LPGForum is the same, things aren't automatically marked as read, I have to manually do it.

Seems odd that it's only just started for you though, I wonder if Gordon has been playing......

The reducer you have is rated at 380 bhp so is easily capable of running your car so changing it for something else isn't going to give any benefits. What it will do is cause you lots of grief with pipes being in a different place whereas swapping in a new Bigas unit will be a straight swap. For the difference in price I would always suggest a complete new reducer over a rebuild kit. No struggling with seized screws and you know the mechanical parts are new too and not just the rubber bits. I'd say fit a new reducer and then calibrate the system (which may require a slight increase in gas pressure or just tweaking the map).

It's always been like that for me and not just on Opening Time, also on Oily Bits and Electrikery (although not on Hackery). All I've ever done is read the threads then click on Mark as Read before coming out of it. It seems to affect some people and not others and the theory is it's something to do with the operating system and browser being used.

Mine's got the good quality orange poly bushes and I think they are starting to signs of wear. Still handles fine and no wandering around but it just doesn't quite feel as tight as it has. They've been there for the best part of 100,000 miles though but if there's a Radius Arm bush changing Spring Camp then sign me up for it and I'll have a set of cheaper, better, OE bushes pressed in.

Huh? The steering damper is right at the front, in front of the axle and below the radiator. How can it get anywhere near the sump? Or do you mean the harmonic balancer, the big round lump of cast iron? That should be well away from the sump.

That's your problem then. CDL switch not doing anything. Ordinarily that would change state depending on which way you turn the key so with it not working you can't sync as you can't turn the key both ways. Simple way to test the CDL switch with the Nano is to just sit in the car and push the sill locking button down.

If the fob and BeCM aren't paired the BeCM won't receive a valid code. It'll receive something but ignore it. The most likely scenario is that the key switch is playing up in the latch so although you are turning the key, the BeCM doesn't realise it. You can check the operation of the switches with the Nano by going into BeCM, Diagnostics, Doors - Locking and it will show you the change of state as each switch is operated.

It's only the US spec ones that have 4, two pre-cat and two post-cat. Same as only US ones have the Secondary Air Injection junk on them too.