OB's memory is correct, I did try one a few months back. They are 3D printed parts and needed an awful lot of fettling to get everything to slide as it should but even then only lasted for 2 or 3 operations before breaking. In saying that, the cables weren't in brilliant condition either and that may have put extra strain on things. I got a complete cassette and fitted that instead. Once you've got the glass out you will be able to see the broken part, set it so that it holds the rear of the sunroof up and put the glass back in. Depending on what actual part has broken, I might have the original part still on the remains of my cassette but otherwise you will be better off swapping the whole lot. It's a 3 person job though, 2 to hold it in place while the third person puts the bolts in.

I suspect it's down to the cold weather and people needing LPG for home heating. I had to wait over a week for a delivery of heating oil despite phoning two days after placing the order and telling them I'd run out. They couldn't bring the delivery forward as demand was so high. I would think it's much the same with LPG, they make more profit on home heating supplies than garage forecourt sales so prioritise those.

davew wrote:

but I really wonder what he/they think RRnet is actually for....?

It's his own personal site, he even lists www.rangerovers.net as his website on a few profile sites. I once posted that I had a spare ABS pressure switch in my garage if it would be of any use to someone on there who was having trouble and suspected the switch. That got me a weeks ban because items for sale should be in the For Sale forum yet he's done exactly the same thing here http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/310897-source-overhauled-valve-blocks.html, but as it's his site he can.

Every time I've tried to remove a rear height sensor, I've had to resort to the angle grinder. Wickes do some very useful 1mm thick cutting blades.....

Ooooh, not a good idea. He doesn't like people sending him emails to his personal email address (see post 12 here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/189-looks-like-rrtoadhall-doesn-t-like-competition). Although if it is a personal email address why isn't it his name and not his Rangerovers.net username?

But, on the upside, it's encouraging more of the knowledgable users onto here and leaving the rednecks over there.

It's a bit of a funny one. Sometimes a height sensor dead spot will give a soft fault so the yellow light on the dash comes on, all 4 height lights come on and it will pump up to maximum height, other times it comes up as a hard fault so it drops to the bumpstops. Soft fault doesn't always need a reset, simply switching off and restarting is enough to clear it but only sometimes. Hard fault will always need a reset.

Rears can be swapped side to side which would move the dead spot to a different height, hopefully one that it doesn't sit at. Later front's (VIN VA onwards) can also be swapped but earlier ones are handed so can't be.

Aragorn wrote:

As a random aside, a few weeks back i was towing a trailer home in the snow, and randomly got an EAS Fault out the blue shortly after leaving the mother in laws. First time its ever had a fault, and i was expecting the worst, bumpstops etc while towing wasnt going to be pleasant...

However all it did was light up the four lights on the height button... No "35mph" warning or deflate to the bump stops, it just sat where it was. I drove a short distance to find a safe place to stop and got nanocom out (luckily it was in the glovebox), it said front right height sensor had some issue. Reset the code and everything returned to normal and its not come back.

That's the classic dead spot on a height sensor fault, in your case, front right. You obviously hit it at just the right spot.

Quite a few have had the odd one week ban (more than once in some cases) but it's only a very small number of us distinguished members that have managed a lifetime ban. The rest of you just aren't trying hard enough.......

On the Nano you have to open a valve for a corner and then open the inlet or outlet valve too which makes a corner go up or down. What was the actual fault you had when it dropped? My suspicion would be a height sensor with a dead spot on it's travel. If it sits at that spot for more than 30 seconds, it will go into hard fault. The stored fault will tell you which one. If you lock it at a different height to where it was when it faulted (so, if on a motorway I would suspect motorway height, so lock it in normal) and it doesn't do it, that will narrow it down.

If you have a Nano, why didn't you just plug it in and reset it as soon as the fault occurred rather than have to drive on the bumpstops?

Welcome to the club, I was banned for life too (using this username). I noticed that the thread you were involved in suddenly had a few posts removed and figured someone was due for a banning. Obviously you........

Before swapping sensors, check that they are switching correctly on petrol. They should flip flop between 0 and 1V every second or so.

If I'm reading the graph correctly, it looks like at idle the gas injection time is higher than the petrol injection time, which is as it should be (and confirmed by the second screenshot). However, as soon as you give it some throttle, the petrol times (purple line) are higher than the gas times (grey line). They should be between 1.2 and 1.5 times the petrol times which suggest the fuelling map is way out. Just to confuse things further, the lambda doesn't appear to be switching properly. When given some throttle is appears to go rich (1.0V lambda output), which doesn't follow with the injection times. Does the Tartarini software have an autocal feature? It might be worth saving your existing settings, in case it makes it worse, and doing an autocal if you can.

Post the graph if you can, that might help to identify what it is doing (depending on what it is showing of course)..

All of my cars have a big hole in the bottom for the pipes from the LPG tank to pass through. No idea if the original hole was smaller and it's been enlarged or if there wasn't one and ones been drilled/cut out. Can't think of anyone local that has a car not running on LPG so can't even have a look for you.

davew wrote:

Worse(!) than that though he seems to have replaced the EAS bags and then converted to SPRINGS ?!

The answer to that is at the top of this page......

As well as the supply to the trailer socket, that fuse supplies, the radio, aerial amp, HEVAC and cigarette lighter socket. It is switched by a relay in the BeCM and I doubt the relay is rated at less than the fuse so even if you do overload it, the fuse should pop before you do any damage. What does the fridge draw?

The White/Orange wire comes off fuse 8 at the BeCM which is a 30A fuse and it's switched by a relay within the BeCM itself, so you may as well just use that for the fridge if you want it only powered when the engine is running. Or, use that to power a relay and switch the permanent live from the Pink/Orange if you are concerned that the current draw may be too much. The Pink/Orange is fused at 20A but as it also supplies other items, RAVE says that it is capable of supplying 10A to the trailer socket.

If you look behind the LH rear light cluster you'll find an unused 4 way connector. That has permanent live, ignition switched live, ground and reversing lights on it. I've used it to pick up power for a pair of cigarette lighter style sockets in the boot for keeping stuff charged up.

Colours are:
White/Orange, Ignition switched live
Green/Brown, Reversing lights
Pink/Orange, Permanent live
Black, Ground

Air con drains block up too, from under the car there are two conical shaped bits of rubber, one either side of the gearbox. Give them a squeeze to get a dollop of mud, water and dead leaves up your sleeve. Other cause of damp in the drivers footwell is leaking heater core O rings. Do you have to keep topping the coolant up?

Glad you got the lights sorted though. You're getting there.

If one is giving a weak signal, all it needs is resetting. Give all 4 a gentle tap with a mallet and see if that cures it. One car I worked on was giving a fault and checking with the Nanocom showed that all were giving an output but one was slower to react than the others, a swift clout sorted it.