Found 2 part numbers listed on Microcat, ESR3027 (which doesn't specify a year or market), ESR3973 (which is for 99 onwards but is described as a grommet but on the picture looks more like the seal inside the cap and WLR000010 which is listed as for a Discovery (https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/135128/2646/fuel_filler_neck_grommet___v8_petrol___discovery_2) but looks to be correct. There's this eBay listing on your side of the pond which shows the Disco one as the replacement for both earlier part numbers https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-FUEL-GROMMET-RANGE-ROVER-4-0-4-6-P38-DISCO-1-DISCO-2-OEM-WLR000010-/401098865174
Original part number was STC3068 but superseded to RVL100030.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RVL100030
https://www.lrdirect.com/RVL100030-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-bm.html
https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/superseded/stc3068-use-rvl100030.html
Or just get flat washers from B&Q and hit them with a ball pein hammer
I've got AA cover through my bank account and they took me, the car and the car transporter trailer I was towing at the time home. Admittedly it was only from Harlow to Peterborough and not a relay job but they still got everything back.
I've got the English CD version sitting on my Google drive if anyone wants it, https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc Got a bit more on it than the one that covers every model but only covers P38, L322 (up to 2005) and Defender.
I bet the driver had fun getting a transporter down your driveway......
I know how you like buying new toys, so here's the next one......
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/ctj3000g-3-tonne-professional-garage-j/
It's one of these that lives in my boot and having just looked at the spec, I now know why it seems heavy when I'm lifting it in and out, it is.
Robbo1 wrote:
When the pump was running off the car I could hold my finger over the outlet and stop any air coming out.
It's knackered. There's no way you should be able to stop 150+ psi with your finger. The pump would run forever as it needs to be up to roughly 140 psi before the pressure switch shuts it off.
The landroverresource one only works if you have an awful lot of time or are running through a VPN. As it's US based they have obviously erred on the cautious side regarding people downloading it from outside the US. It starts off OK then slows to old school dial up download speed so will take about 2 days to complete..
How long has the pump been running for? Although they say 8-10 minutes, I've found that after you've had the valve block off so there is no pressure in any of the system, even with a rebuilt pump you can be looking at twice that.
The first time I did rear bags I spent hours getting the top pin out and even when that was out, more hours trying to pull the thing down out of the hole it fits into. Now, as the bags are pretty much scrap and going to be replaced anyway, I just slide an old 1" wood chisel between chassis and body and give it a good clout. Chops the top off the air spring and the whole thing just falls out.
With a jack, ideally two, one at each end. Jack it up, put the high blocks in, depressurise the system, drop it down so it sits on the blocks, read the heights, write them using the Nano. Jack it up, remove the blocks, fit the standard height ones, drop it down again, read the heights and so on. On my set I drilled and tapped a hole in the top of the access height blocks so I can screw a bolt it to get them out of the bumpstops easily.
We'll find them a corner to hide in.....
Click on the word P38. It's Smiler's thread, he's posted it here I think.....
If you want a real black black, there is only one, Rolls Royce Masons Black. The mix is 100% black pigment, nothing else.
This was done in that. 3 coats of base coat followed by 2 coats of clear lacquer. Painting it took about an hour and a half, preparation took 2 months.
I've been to one of the places that do armoured conversions and the main thing they aim for is making the car appear as normal as possible. The thinking being that if it is obviously armoured then an attacker would search out and go for any weak spots rather than just spraying it with bullets (that will bounce off). One reason they like doing conversions on Range Rovers is that the air suspension still keeps the car at a normal height even when they'd added half a tonne of armour in the doors, extra thick glass, etc.
Interesting thread but if it was bad connections from the TPS then that would have been seen immediately if they'd plugged a code reader in that did live data. They do seem to vary, of the 3 I've got one changes down as soon as I hit a slight incline, mine does when I'm towing but when not when not unless I give it a little bit of extra throttle (although there's no telling what mapping was done to the various ECUs when it was supplied to plod), the other one I haven't really driven enough to know. Gearchanges are controlled by the engine load and that is calculated from revs, throttle position and airflow so MAF and TPS are the two that play the biggest part.
Mukiwa wrote:
What really pissed me off was that they didn't tell me because at least I would have known for the future.
That's always my argument for doing everything myself. If it all goes as it should, fine, but if I have to do a bodge I at least know it's been bodged and know what to do when/if it fails. When someone else has done what you think is a proper job, you have no option but to trust that they've done it right.
According to the Nanocom documentation the gearbox ECU fitted to the P38 was only ever fitted to the GEMS P38. Diagnostics are very limited and about all you can do is read and clear fault codes. I suspect that was something that Storey didn't bother with.
I wouldn't put that much in, don't forget that modern petrol starts to go off after about 3 months so you'll end up with a tank full of stale petrol. 5 gallons should be easily enough.
The rails with solenoids are the injectors, each solenoid is an injector. Do they look like this? http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/valtek-type-30-4-cyl-injector-rail-with-nozzles/
No matter how low the idle is, then turning off just one injector shouldn't make it stall, it's still got 7 others that are running. However, as your engine batch fires the petrol injectors (it doesn't fire them one at a time but fires all 4 on each bank together) it may be that you aren't turning one injector off but one bank of cylinders. They will run on 4 but only just......
The lambda sensors control the fuelling on petrol and the LPG system just piggy backs off the petrol system. Instead of the pulses from the petrol ECU firing the petrol injectors, it fires into the LPG controller, which adds a fiddle factor (the difference in inj time between petrol and gas) and fires the LPG injectors instead. So if it isn't running right on petrol it never will run right on gas.