Found the source, an own goal, sort of. Checked the car this morning and still the same Ignition Tamper message. Got the spectrum analyser out of the works motor and found that my fob operates on 433.9675 MHz, but there was a very regular data burst on 433.9680 MHz so no chance of filtering that out. It was also very strong, like ridiculously strong, like -48dBm (for those that understand it) but weaker outside the house. House has a wireless thermostat fitted to the central heating system and it's that thing. Quite why it is sending a burst every few seconds even when the heating is switched off and the temperature is stable is anyone's guess but it is. Or it was, now I've taken the batteries out of it, it isn't. I'll need to look up how it is supposed to work, maybe it is expecting to get a reply from the boiler but as that is switched off it isn't so is constantly shouting to it.

There's other signals floating around in the band but at much lower levels so I suppose I now have to wait and see if has cured the Ignition Tamper message and will let the BeCM go to sleep and stay that way.

I work from home a couple of days a week anyway, a 15 minute job to do takes at least 3 hours to do the paperwork these days! Although it could be an amusing and simple case, or, better still, a really complicated one as the interference would go off whenever I went to investigate.

Got in it this morning and exactly the same, Alarm Triggered, Ignition Tamper. I'll try disconnecting the RF receiver for a couple of days to confirm it is an RF problem.

I thought about that as I have the capability of producing a considerable amount of power on the frequency. Then realised that it would affect me too.......

Now it is getting really weird. Found a receiver and tuned it to 433.95 MHz (which took some doing as most things are still in boxes) and found almost continuous bursts of data, so it looks like every neighbour for half a mile has a wireless weather station. Sat in the car and waited for the BeCM to go to sleep, which it did, but almost immediately the receiver picked up a burst of data and it woke up again. Then, while waiting to see if it would go back to sleep, the dash beeped at me and "Interior Lights Off" came up. Opened the door and sure enough, no interior lights. Turned them back on and left it for another day. Fortunately I've got the hoofing great Hankook battery on it so it won't go flat by morning but it definitely looks like I'm going to be in the market for a Gen 3 receiver.

We moved house over the weekend and spent our first night in the new place on Saturday. Sunday morning got in the car, turned the ignition on and the Message Centre came up with, Alarm Triggered, Ignition Tamper. Never seen that one before but didn't think too much about it. Got into it this evening and it came up with the same message. As I've not heard the alarm for quite some time checked it earlier by locking the car with one window open then pulling up the sill button and opening the door. Sounder is definitely working and I think I would have heard it as the car was parked under the bedroom window which was wide open (humping furniture on the hottest weekend since records began is not a fun game). Owners handbook says that Ignition Tamper is caused by "turning the starter switch on was the cause of the alarm system triggering". To me this means that the starter operating on it's own would cause this and according to some on RR.net, the starter operating when it feels like it is a sign of a failing fusebox. Fusebox was changed for a brand new one about a year ago, so unlikely to be that and I think I would have heard the starter turning the engine over. Anyone else ever come across this one? I'll wait and see if it gives me the same message in the morning.......

Until you get the update for your Motronic you won't be able to sort out the idle but everything else works so you can have a play with the other systems. Just don't go changing anything in the BeCM.......

Although with your current record with computers I can foresee lots of questions coming up......

Iffy connection in the multiway connector in the LH footwell. The Ascot did it to me and it was losing supply to the lights so the one showing what height I was at would go out momentarily. That would cause it to beep and bring up the EAS fault warning but then the connection came back, all the lights would come on as it rebooted, just as it does when you first turn on the ignition and it carried on as normal until I hit another bump. I just chopped out the connector and soldered the wires straight through.

But we'd all starve!!!!!!!

It wouldn't be a Summer Camp without the barbecue master.

Only Switzerland? Not even trying.......

Out of interest, I just checked the emissions printout from my test last year (next one isn't due for another month or so). CO was 0.4% on LPG. Which isn't bad considering the cats are nothing more than empty boxes.....

I may be in the market for new Y pipe fairly soon, it's not looking that pretty, although mine has joins just after the cats so can be changed simply enough with the crossmember in place. I'd prefer to replace with another the same but it seems it depends on who you get it from whether it's in one piece or three.

and me.....

Not that much tin worm, lots of measles but not much tin worm..... Not sure if they will come off with the sidesteps still in place but the sill trims pop off easily enough. If you take the rear mudflaps off the coloured infill on the rear bumper ends come out so can be sprayed separately.

Sounds about right. I get between 13 and 16 mpg depending on whether it's running around town or on a long run (although with 3 tonnes hanging off the back I am down to single figures!). Stop start traffic doesn't seem to affect it too much it's the accelerating back up to speed that does. I would think on petrol for a similar run you'd be looking at around 18-19 so with the price difference, even though you are using more, it's still around half price give or take depending on how much you are having to pay for LPG. I filled up earlier today at 54p a litre so a decent amount less than half the price of petrol although the A1(M) services are at 67p, almost exactly half of what they charge for petrol.

Good point, apparently there's two lugs at the bottom to stop the screen sliding downwards while the goo is going off. They should have rubber blocks on them so there isn't metal against the edge of the glass. If they don't, it causes a crack to appear almost exactly in the centre of your field of vision. My SE had a new windscreen fitted just before I got it and cracked not long afterwards. I took it into a local screen fitters and it was the guy there that took one look at it and told me what had caused it to crack in that exact place.

no10chris wrote:

Thanks for help, I’ll keep trying, but my patience with computers is about 5 seconds max, I tried as described and still just got link, grrrrr

Chris, you will only see the link when you are writing or editing the post, it only shows the picture when you hit Reply (or Preview). This is what my post #6 looks like until I actually send it to the board.

Just a thought, you are using the correct Insert Picture button and not the Insert Link button? This one, marked 2

Not to mention compensation for the loss of the car until they do it properly as it was due to go in for MoT as soon as the windscreen was changed.

I bought Codan 7.9mm ID hose from a local company. This is the stuff you want, https://www2.codan.com/node/28273 and I would have thought somewhere like Pirtek would stock it If you ask for that specific hose you should get it rather than some generic fuel hose..

Another new screen then, that's the only option now. At their cost too and with a barrage of CCTV cameras watching his every move. I had to have a new screen fitted to my works van so took the opportunity to tidy the back out while he was doing it. Not that I really cared whether he did a good job or not but I do have to drive the hateful little thing......

Doing just what the Classic was doing. In fact, his wrecked the front diff so he got a new one from Ashcrofts who told him that front's rarely go as badly as his had and suggested his viscous was seized. He reckons it's a different car now.

Errm, well as the front propshaft bolts up to the flange, you've have a bit of difficulty changing it if you don't. Simple enough, changed one on my mates Classic a few weeks ago. Took the two of us about two hours and half of that was spent trying to work out how to get a gearbox mount back on (as it bolts to the side of the VC housing on a Classic). Came out easily enough with gravity and a crowbar, didn't want to go back in though. His was skipping at full lock, is yours doing the same or do you just feel that it's not right?.