Don't use Tee's at all. You need a 19-19mm straight connector, two 19-16mm straight connectors and a good length of 16mm ID hose. In the hose from the inlet manifold fit a 19-16 connector, run a hose from that to the vaporiser. Vaporiser return hose goes to the heater inlet using the second 19-16. 19-19 goes in the heater return to connect it back as it was originally.

Doing it this way the vaporiser and heater are in series so no danger of one taking all of the flow while the other gets none.

Have you realised that this site will be celebrating it's 2nd birthday on Friday? Member number 2 hasn't posted much though......

Three 120 Ohm resistors in parallel will give you 40 Ohms, but 40 Ohms is not a standard value (33 or 47 are standard values) which is why he's used 3 in parallel. Not only that, but by using 3 they don't need to be high current ones either.

Most cheapo meters won't give a tone for much over 5 Ohms, it is intended for checking continuity rather than resistance.

Or just do the line in mod on the one you have. Then you can either plug an external source in or plug in a £5 Bluetooth module and use it with your phone.

dhallworth wrote:

and your P38’s all behave if you need to use them.

Bloody hope mine does, it's got 3500 miles to do in the next week!!

Merry Christmas everyone.

I checked RAVE, if you have a sub you have amps in all the doors so would need to knock up the attenuators if you wanted to use a standard head unit. Or at least you would need to use the attenuators if you don't want it to overdrive the amps and distort horribly.

The extra two connections in the plug are for the sub. You've got the same L,R, F, R as on a standard 8 pin DIN but with two extra pins. Not sure if a 94 would have the door amps although the presence of the sub does suggest a high line system so maybe it does.

I've only got one car with the original radio and that has been back to Pioneer and had the code removed so comes up with NO CODE when first switched on then simply works. I think I read somewhere that it has to be powered up for a couple of hours before the ---- changes to CODE but I could be wrong. It must be powered continuously so don't turn it off even if you stop for fuel.

I think Gordon has the storage capacity and bandwidth to allow it to cope with far more users so it wouldn't be a problem. What would be is that all of us on here, except for a couple, are P38 owners so that is what we know and have experience with so expanding to cover other models wouldn't be a lot of use or interest. I suppose all that would be needed would be a bit more publicity although that could take away the personal feel of the site. It is a virtual pub, you wander in, sit down and talk about cars. If the conversation wanders off topic, who cares? The tag line for the site dates back to when the Defender first came out on coil springs after years of the Series Land Rovers being on leaf springs. It was using that phrase when people were talking about converting a P38 to coils springs, that got both Gordon and me a ban from RR.net and started the idea for this site in the first place (that, and considerable quantities of alcohol).

What has always got to me about RR.net is that it is a site that was started by a New Zealander, dedicated to a British car, now owned by a Canadian company but Admin is a narrow minded redneck Yank who judges by his own standards and sets his own rules.

esprits4s wrote:

This all started with him telling me to stay on topic in a thread that I started. I started a thread asking about rear brake lines. Then I asked about rust treatment in the same thread. He then stepped in.

I've registered a different username on there so I can send the odd reply but mainly to avoid the ads. I saw your thread, I saw his comment about dropping the tank allowing you to deal with any rust and then when he told you to stay on topic, I saw your reply. I very nearly sent you a PM warning you that you were getting dangerously close to a ban by answering him back. Seems he hasn't yet entered into the Christmas spirit of goodwill to all men.

Welcome and if it wasn't for Toad, I think we'd have far less members on here. But will you please remember that this is primarily a UK based forum. So it's a car not a truck, it has a bonnet not a hood and it runs on petrol not gas as that really causes confusion when so many of us this side of the Atlantic run our cars on LPG.

PS, do you actually have an Esprit as well as a P38? A glutton for punishment is the phrase that springs to mind.......

2 looks correct assuming you have a reversing camera or something that means it needs to know when you are in reverse.
3 again OK if you intend watching video on it (but as it's capable of doing it, why not?), it will blank the screen when the handbrake is off.
4 Yes
5 I suspect that is just a standard ground, you may as well connect it, it won't do any harm even if it doesn't need it.
6 & 7 Does the manual say these are for steering wheel controls or are they for power if you don't use the DIN connector? The original unit uses what's known as a ladder circuit where a press of each button sends a different resistance between the remote wire and ground. More modern units use data and I suspect that is what the adapter on eBay you linked to does, converts the different resistance values to data. I know my Kenwood head unit uses data and that adapter says it will work with Kenwood. If it does work, at that price I might get one and replace my steering wheel with one with buttons so I can use it.

You use the first one and only use half of it. Or, you chop the phono plug off and connect directly to the sub feed to the back of the car. It looks like the sub output is mono, hence only one plug. The DIN output will give you speaker level outputs so that is there the attenuators need to go and ignore the line level outputs (plugs 13-16). The 'wake up' output from the head unit to your door amps (and the sub presumably), is wire 8. As it can also do video, you may need to do something (probably tie it to ground) with wire 3. One of the cars I imported from the US had a similar type system and you could only watch video on it when the handbrake was on and there was a wire that was grounded when the handbrake was applied.

I've used both Apex and Delphi here and no complaints, even when stopping with a 4 tonne trailer on the back with no working over-run brakes.

Looks like you sussed it while I was typing. If you look up the connector number in RAVE it will show you the layout and location of the connector. Don't think there are any connectors under carpet, even LR would realise that would be a failure waiting to happen.

The dotted line shows that there is a connector there, C1367 connected to C1380L (L being Left, there will be another C1380R on the Right). 1 will probably be the +ve as the wiring coloured do seem to follow the DIN standard for speaker wiring.

Ah, mines like this https://bearmach.com/front-exhaust-pipe-catalyst-esr3697 with sliding joints after the cats, rather than https://www.lrdirect.com/WCD000860-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-bosal.html which is all in one lump. That's probably why I've been puzzled when people have said they've had to remove the crossmember to get it off.

That's the one I've been looking at for when the time comes but it doesn't include the Y piece. I noticed that the system being sold by Eurocarparts doesn't either (I've got one of their centre boxes on at the moment and it's a lot better than the Britpart one that fell off). Where does one get the Y piece from?

A 4 pin rear diff will fit on the front but will be noisier as the gears are cut the opposite way so you'd be best to fit a 2 pin unless you want something that whines like a London bus. Have you actually found the source of the noise yet? If there's no slack or tightness in any of the UJs, then it isn't going to be them. With the prop off you can get one front wheel off the ground and see if the noise is there when you spin the wheel. Same goes for the rear diff.

This is the stuff you want http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/8mm-silicone-1-ply-radiator-heater-hose-1-metre-to-50-metres-blue-black.html

Rubber, especially is you use fuel hose (which is easy to get hold of in the correct size) will go hard and brittle with coolant running through it.

I've tried Waze and didn't rate it much, try Here WeGo, it's an Android version of the one that used to be supplied free with all Nokia phones and allows you to download maps so will work with no signal (but won't give you traffic details obviously). Works every bit as well as my own Garmin sat nav and a lot better than the Renault butchered version of the TomTom software in my works van.