If you look behind the LH rear light cluster you'll find an unused 4 way connector. That has permanent live, ignition switched live, ground and reversing lights on it. I've used it to pick up power for a pair of cigarette lighter style sockets in the boot for keeping stuff charged up.

Colours are:
White/Orange, Ignition switched live
Green/Brown, Reversing lights
Pink/Orange, Permanent live
Black, Ground

Air con drains block up too, from under the car there are two conical shaped bits of rubber, one either side of the gearbox. Give them a squeeze to get a dollop of mud, water and dead leaves up your sleeve. Other cause of damp in the drivers footwell is leaking heater core O rings. Do you have to keep topping the coolant up?

Glad you got the lights sorted though. You're getting there.

If one is giving a weak signal, all it needs is resetting. Give all 4 a gentle tap with a mallet and see if that cures it. One car I worked on was giving a fault and checking with the Nanocom showed that all were giving an output but one was slower to react than the others, a swift clout sorted it.

Chances are the cruise control pipe to the brake pedal is leaking. Pull it off the cruise actuator and try blowing down it. If you can blow down it, there's the problem. 8mm ID pipe needed, my local motor factors do a nice high temperature plastic pipe that fits perfectly.

As for the brakes, did you fit the anti rattle shims and springs when you changed the pads and what pads did you fit?

For pressure to fill all 4 corners you would need to have all 4 solenoids operated as well as the inlet solenoid. None of these should be operated with a door open and even if it wasn't registering the door being open, it should still only rise to normal height. The only thing I can think is that you've cocked up the valve block somehow.

Ah, I often wondered how much of a difference those weights make and after driving a car where one had been left off, they do make a hell of a difference. What do you mean by swapping the diffs round?

On EAS Unlock, clicking the button that doesn't look like a button marked Faults, clears the list. Then if you read faults again it will show you the current ones. If you go into the Heights tab, you can manually click each corner up and down. If you click one corner and don't hear the relevant solenoid operate, that is your problem.

What T pieces?

Martyuk wrote:

Though the easiest solution is probably to chop the old battery terminal off, and replace it with one which has a threaded stud on it, and then crimp a new ring terminal onto the +ve cable that goes to the starter/alternator.

That was my thought, it should be possible to remove the existing terminal with a blowlamp and solder a new ring terminal onto the end. Then it can be fitted to a standard battery terminal the same as all the other cars.

Martyuk wrote:>

Any (decent) auto electrician should be able to crimp a terminal on without much trouble.

Unfortunately, Teri is in France and the terms decent and electrician do not appear in the French language......

Hi Teri. I'll add the picture so people know what you are talking about.

Every battery cable I have seen has the battery terminal on the main feed to the fusebox. I've sent her a spare I had but unfortunately it can't be fitted as hers has the terminal on the feed to the starter like this:

The lack of a bolt is the main problem as the terminal can't be firmly attached to the battery. When I last saw the car, it was there so I suspect the bodgers at NorAuto (think a French version of Halfords only much worse) have lost it when they fitted a new battery.

Question is, is this a normal arrangement on a later diesel? It would make sense to have the best connection going to the starter but it's different to all the others I've come across.

I think you'll find that the 4 holes aren't equidistant so they can only go on in two ways. They always say to mark them so they go back on in the same position as they came off but if they've been off before, you've no way of knowing that they were before. I don't think it's too critical, the diff and transfer box have been changed so you can't put them as they were before anyway. As long as the sliding joint is at the transfer case end and all the bolts are tight, it has got to be an improvement.

Also check the alignment of the UJ's. They should be at an angle and original props had one spline missing so they could only go together correctly, aftermarket ones don't so can be fitted together at any alignment. I bought a new one and found the UJ's were in line so split it and put it as it should be. As the P38 ones can't be changed there is no mention of it in RAVE but there is in the version for the Classic. See below.

There's a switch under the gear lever that operates when you push the lever across to the low side. It is this switch that has the Purple/Green wire on one side and a Black wire on the other.

That means either the switch isn't doing anything cuz it's broke or the wire between the switch and the ECU has a break in it somewhere. There's no connectors to go green and hairy between the switch and the ECU so it's a break in the wire, the switch itself or the earth connection on the other side of the switch (on the black wire).

I'm of the opinion that you have more than one fault. The EAS beep and light going out is caused by a poor connection between the EAS ECU under the passenger seat and the light display on the dash. That goes through the connector in the LH footwell. The dancing locks is caused by iffy microswitches in one of the front door latches, the one that isn't locking itself usually. The rear lights does sound to be moisture related but if it was in the BeCM, the power board is on the top, the logic board is at the bottom so if you have water getting to the BeCM it would have died by now as the logic board drowned. I still think you are looking at water getting into the trailer socket and shorting things out there. Disconnecting the white plugs will disconnect the feed to the trailer socket and isolate that.

For the other faults, the footwell connectors can be removed and the wires soldered and heat shrinked. They are only needed when the car is assembled at the factory so aren't needed once it's put together. There's a similar one in the RH footwell that also suffers from damp so it's worth doing them both.

As for the door locks, Marty does exchange refurbished latches at a very favourable price.

+1 on avoiding a garage if at all possible. Most don't understand electrics, particularly on a P38, and all you'll do is end up spending money for someone to tell you they can't fix the problem (or that you need a new BeCM and wiring loom).

Just had another look at RAVE and the other common point on the rear lights is the connections to the trailer socket. Behind the RH rear light you should find a pair of white 8 way connectors which join a second set of wires from the BeCM to the trailer socket. Try unplugging that pair and see if that makes any difference.

The mention of the EAS light going out intermittently made me think it could be the multiway connector behind the LH footwell kick panel as the wiring for that goes through there. However, having had a look at the ETM in RAVE, it seems that the rear lights are fed directly from the BeCM without even a connector between the two. If the seat is coming out, have a look at the connections to the BeCM, but the rear lights come off different connectors for left and right. That could point to the one common thing, the BeCM.......

Once you get the pump running you'll probably find it still won't work. There's two non-return valves at the back that go non-return in both directions. I replaced one of those, the rear washer worked for about a week and then the other one failed.

They should heat up enough to start working just from the exhaust gases when given some welly, plenty of earlier injected cars only had one or two wire sensors. Is this just on gas or on petrol too?

No idea but I wouldn't just do one caliper on an axle I'd always do them in pairs. Sounds like you need to pull the other 3 apart.