Clive603 wrote:
and you have a 300,000 mile motor. But you know that.
I certainly do, this was last Sunday evening.
My car has done 6,500 miles in the last month and the only failure has been a blown front sidelight bulb.
I get what you are saying but you could pick up a low mileage car, with a checkable MoT history so you have an idea of what has been done to it, for half what they are asking for that one. It may have been regularly serviced, but equally it could have spent months at a time parked up going nowhere and still has the same oil in the sump it left Solihull with.
I now they are ugly, it is not without reason that the Disco 3/4 is known in some circles as the Land Rover Brinks Mat. The boxy shape and slab sides do make it look a bit like an armoured cash delivery van.
Not on eBay but I spotted this today and thought it worth sharing. Reasonably tidy looking but has to be the most expensive GEMS in the country.
Dealers blurb on it is here http://www.buckworthsgarage.co.uk/car-image-page-17.html so you can't even check the MoT history as it's a Japanese import.
Quite why anyone would buy it over the Discovery parked next to it for only a grand more (unless it was someone that really wanted a P38 of unknown history) is anybody's guess.....
You probably won't be able to see anything just by looking at it, unless the plug has come out of course. It's under the passenger seat towards the back of the car. If you find pin 33, on the top row of pins with the Purple/Green wire on it, and connect that to earth, that simulates moving the lever across the gate to low range. With the engine running and the gearlever in neutral, that should cause the beeping and changeover to happen.
If it was the motor it would still beep at you and flash the light on the dash, it just wouldn't change over (and would beep forever until low moved the lever back). As it isn't doing that, it doesn't even know that you are trying to select low range so the only thing left is the switch. I suppose it might be the ECU that's died but not that likely. Simple enough to check that the earth is getting to the ECU though.
Even more curiouser. Mine, apparently registered after yours, was VIN SALLHBM33KA635501, so appears to be two years older. The K in mine showing 92-93 build date (93MY), the M in yours showing 94-95 build date (95MY so one of the very last Classics when they were sold alongside the P38). Mine being a hard dash would verify that it was definitely older. Microcat shows yours as KIJ 26 and that usually shows the registration when supplied new. L reg is from 1 August 1993 to 31 July 1994 so mine would have been built between late 92 and the year change which was usually around September, 1993. Yours however, with the M in the VIN, shouldn't have been built before roughly September 94 but appears to have been. It probably had the personal plate put on it from new and DVLA would have allocated it a normal plate so it had an age related plate when/if the personal plate was taken off but even then, how can a car that has a VIN showing it to be built in late 1994 have been registered in May???? Really weird.....
Doesn't help with trying to trace where it is now though
If you have a sub, which you should have if you have the CD changer, it lives above the CD changer and is intended to squirt the noise out through the grille/vent looking thing in the shelf. It may be there but not working (speaker cones can seize or the amp built into it can die) or someone has nicked it in the past but I suspect you will find the door amps. Yes, head unit is modern day speak for radio but as they all do much more than just radio these days then they became head units.
With the door amps rather than the DSP system, you've a lot less preparation work to do other than knock up the attenuators.
Never having had need to get inside the centre console to get to the bottom of the gear lever, I can't tell you exactly what you will find but the switch is just a microswitch that is operated when you move the lever over to the low range side. It has two wires, a Purple/Green (not Pink/Green as I said in my previous) and a Black. If these are shorted together it should engage low range as long as fuse 4 is OK although if it was blown I would have expected the dash to have told you.
That's interesting. My old Classic LSE was a hard dash but was L591 AHS so either yours was on a personal plate or mine was one of the very last hard dash ones. Not sure on the VIN but I must have a scan of the V5 somewhere......
If you've got the sub and CD player you've got the high line system with amps in the doors. The rest of it is the same as the mid line with bass, midrange and tweeter in the front doors and bass and midrange in the rear but the midrange doesn't have the amps but is fed directly from the head unit at speaker level. So if you drive it with speaker level it will distort unless you knock up a set of attenuators but line level from a tablet won't be enough to drive the amps.
Sounds more electrical than mechanical if it was working before. The switch under the gear selector simply applies an earth to the Pink/Green wire that goes straight to the transfer box ECU. If it doesn't get that earth, it won't tell the ECU to select low range so you'll get nothing on the dash, no beeps and no signal to the motor on the transfer box.
By the way, that isn't a long post......
You can see everything the the heating system is seeing on the Nano. Go to HEVAC, Inputs, Values and the screen will show you:
· Ambient temperature (c): This reading gives the external air temperature or air entering the ventilation system.
· Aspirator temperature (c): This reading gives internal cabin temperature.
· Evaporator temperature (c): This reading gives the evaporator unit's temperature.
· Heater core temperature (c): This reading gives the engine coolant temperature where the coolant enters the heating system.
· Road speed (Km/h): This value is generated by the ABS ECU using information from its wheel rotation sensors.
· Road speed (mph): This value is generated by the ABS ECU using information from its wheel rotation sensors.
· Engine running: Y or N
· Solar sensor (w/sqm): This reading gives the effective strength of the sun as detected by the Solar Sensor mounted beside the Alarm LED on the top of the dashboard.
· Distribution motors (%): This gives the current feedback position of the motor that drives the flap controlling air distribution inside the vehicle. As the distribution buttons are pressed the flap should move to the position which gives air flow to the selected direction (feet, face, screen etc.).
· Left blend motor (%): This gives the current feedback position of the motor which drives the flap controlling amounts of hot and cold air to be blended together (effectively the temperature of the air coming out of the vents). As the requested temperature is changed by the user the flap should move.
· Right blend motor (%): This gives the current feedback position of the motor which drives the flap controlling amounts of hot and cold air to be blended together (effectively the temperature of the air coming out of the vents). As the requested temperature is changed by the user the flap should move.
· Left blower return: This is the feedback value returned back to the Hevac ECU from the left blower motor, used by the ECU to determine the actual voltage at the motor. This reading value also allows the Hevac ECU to detect Blower motor faults.
· Right blower return: This is the feedback value returned back to the Hevac ECU from the right blower motor, used by the ECU to determine the actual voltage at the motor reading. This value also allows the Hevac ECU to detect Blower motor faults.
· Air conditioning grant: When the A/C button is pressed an active low signal is output to the engine management ECU (The Request). This then looks at factors like engine temperature, load, current acceleration etc. and according to when these conditions allow, grant Air conditioning. This involves it engaging the clutch to drive the Air Conditioning pump, altering its internal fuelling to compensate for the load imposed by the pump, managing along with the Hevac the Condenser fans, and also telling the Hevac that Air Conditioning has been granted.
There's lots of BMW influence in the P38, more on the later ones. The only thing I can think of is there's too much slack on the cable from the vacuum thingy to the throttle. Have you adjusted the cables (throttle and cruise) up as per RAVE?
If I root it so I can remove the bundled stuff that I don't need and all languages except English, will I be able to restore it to factory if I need to or is it permanent?
Yes, 8" and that seems about right. Big enough to see but small enough to carry around. There's enough stuff in the car when I go away, so two tablets is a little overkill really. I suppose I could put the tablet SIM in an old phone, bung it in the centre cubby and use that as a hotspot, although it is something else that will need charging. I've already got an addition 3 cigarette sockets (one on the side of the centre console for the satnav, and a double socket at the back of the console for the fridge behind my seat and to keep the EAS/LPG laptop charged) along with a pair of USB sockets in the rear ashtray.
Presumably something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/32GB-10-1-ANDROID-7-0-TABLET-PC-4G-LTE-OCTA-CORE-DUAL-SIM-1920X1200-IPS-XGODY/272737468132 is crap?
I've had it since around October so no chance of sending it back. When I was offered it I was in two minds whether I would actually find a use for it but as I'd just negotiated a £20 discount off my mobile contract and it was only going to cost me a tenner, I was still saving a bit. I figured it might be useful when I was in Europe so installed Hola VPN and then put BBC iPlayer, ITV Hub, My 5, All4, UKTV Play and Mobdro on it so I could watch TV wherever I was as well as the Planet Rock app and Excel. In fact, Mobdro allowed me to watch the Mexican Grand Prix on Sky Sports F1 while parked up in a French motorway services (serious bit of bad planning there, not being at home when the GP was on...). Pull up at the services, go get a coffee and sit in the car watching the GP with the audio through the car stereo.
I expected it to use a huge amount of data but using the radio app for over 30 hours and watching TV on it for about another 6 hours total and it used about 700Mb so still nowhere near the 4Gb limit I've got. O2 used to do a European traveller bolt on which was a couple of quid a month but gave discount on roaming data and calls but since last summer the rules changed and the networks are no longer allowed to charge for roaming so the data and calls used in Europe come out of my normal allowance just the same as if I'm using the phone or tablet here. The only difference is I don't pay for MMS messages here but they are 40p each to send from Europe.
The Filllpg app works perfectly on my Windows phone and I've got the POI file loaded on my Garmin satnav (along with European POI files from www.mylpg.eu). If there were more apps available for Windows phone, I'd be happy to just stick with that and get a Windows tablet but it just isn't going to happen now. Mobdro only works on Android anyway.
Having seen me looking at new tablets, Dina is already working out what she can use mine for when I don't need it any more.......
Jailbreaking is just as much a mystery as rooting. I started out on MS-DOS, progressed to Windows 3.11, then 95 and finally ended up with 7. My phone has always been a Nokia so the current one runs Windows 8.1 and my work phone until recently was a Blackberry which was an ergonomic disaster but worked. Then they changed out work phones to Samsung J5s on Android which was the first time I'd even seen Android. They were a complete disaster as the Samsung/Android security wouldn't talk to our work network security so after only a month they were swapped for iPhones. That was about 4 months ago and I'm still getting my head around using that! People may knock Windows but I don't have a problem with it and it does what I tell it to, it lets me uninstall anything I don't want installed which it seems Android won't.
I looked at the Lenovo one and also this https://www.svp.co.uk/asus-zenpad-z580c-8in-tablet-black-intel-174-atom-169-z3530-32-gb-android-6-0-marshmallow.html?___SID=U then realised there's a problem with both, no SIM slot, only Wi-Fi. There aren't that many hotspots when driving through rural Europe......
Welcome, drag up a stool and buy a round. You're in the minority with an oil burner but most of us can help with everything else and there is the odd diesel expert around too if you need them.
I'm thinking along the lines of the latter. It does most of what I want it to do although the language changing trick is what is really annoying and it looks like I can't delete the languages I don't use (like all of them except English....). It was a freebie from O2, all I pay is a tenner a month for the SIM, so I might try phoning them and seeing if they will swap it for something else at minimal cost.
Is there any way of turning off updates? There seems very little point in filling the memory up with updates for stuff I'm never going to use anyway, so even if they can't be removed they can at least be made as innocuous as possible.