Ahh, that happened in Holland so it's all Tony's fault. But it still begs the question of how did Tom Tom get the information in the first place. I suppose people could have been asked to upload details of their journeys under the pretext of identifying areas of congestion? Using Google maps on your phone could easily do it though, and I wouldn't put anything past Google especially if someone was prepared to pay them for the information......
That's a new one. An interesting conspiracy theory but how do TomTom get the information? A sat nav is a receiver, there's no bi-directional communication, it simply receives the signals from the GPS satellites and the traffic information embedded in the RDS of Classic FM and, in some cases, DAB radio transmissions.
I think the updates are much like main dealer servicing. It may be done in the first 5 years of a cars life, then after that it gets left.
When Trafficmaster first came out it used an LED display to show you if there was congestion in front, behind or to the left or right of you and, unsurprisingly, it never took off as there was no way of knowing exactly where the congestion was. The second generation system was simply a button on the dash that you pressed and it called an operator. You told them where you wanted to go and got spoken directions over a mobile phone connection. That wasn't particularly successful either.
In 2002 we got a load of new company cars, a mix of Modeos and Peugeot 406s. The 406 came with a factory sat nav while the Mondeos came with Trafficmaster installed. The 406 system was first generation with a system that simply showed you which way to turn at the next junction, had to be programmed by typing in the town and street with a remote control and ran from a CD in the boot. It worked but wasn't that good. After a couple of years the Trafficmaster subscriptions were cancelled as everyone said it was crap and the CD's in the 406 system were out of date. It was cheaper to buy everyone a TomTom rather than buy the updated mapping CD.
This is my objection to things like the fully integrated system in the L322. It may have been state of the art when the car came out 14 years ago, but now it isn't. There's no DAB or Bluetooth, line in or a USB slot, the systems with a TV built in have analogue tuners, the sat nav is pretty basic with no speed camera warnings, traffic re-routing or anything else we take for granted on a current Garmin, TomTom or Google Maps app on a phone and the maps are still on a CD or DVD which costs a stupid amount of money to update. At least with the P38 if you want to upgrade the audio system for something with a few more modern features you can, but you can't on anything later.
The cut down version of RAVE on the landrover resource site (and the same one that Gordon is hosting on here) covers all models but I have a feeling that the engine overhaul sections may be missing. It's also published by Land Rover of North America so concentrates on the LHD versions rather than real ones. However, the full UK version comes on a CD and only covers P38, L322 and Defender and that's the one I use. For everyone's benefit, I've just uploaded an iso image of the CD to https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc . It'll need burning to a disc (or a virtual drive creating) but once burned to a disc I've copied it to my hard drive and have installed it from there so it runs off the hard drive and not a disc.
For the first 20-30 miles after getting it back from V8 Dev and putting it back together, mine didn't want to rev much over 2,000 rpm. My first test in it was run up to Leeds, about 100 miles, and it was only then that it started to loosen up. Now, after 42,000 miles I think it's bedded in nicely and with foot to the floor in sport mode I can see in excess of 4,500 rpm before it changes up.....
Just be aware that although the BPR6ES plugs will work fine and are the correct heat range, they recommended PFR6N-11 on the Thor. These have the smaller (16mm) hex on them and as Orangebean found out on his, the holes on the heads were too small to get a socket in. However, lots of others with Thor engines are fitting the BPR6ES with no problems.
That's actually not a bad price for a pair, about the same or maybe even slightly less than I ended up spending by doing my own heads while the block was at V8 Dev having the top hat liners fitted. I had both heads skimmed (my local place charges £45 per head but curses for hours as he has to set the machine up with an angled support for the heads), new valve guides, valves, seals and the valves lapped in and pressure tested. Get those heads from Ray at V8 Dev and you know that they will be perfect.
I wouldn't consider re-fitting an alloy head without skimming it, particularly not one that has had a blown gasket. The erosion and weakness at the point where the gasket went is going to be right where the fire ring needs to seal so it will stress at that point and burn through in exactly the same place.
GEMS can adjust the fuelling per bank so that would explain the black on one head. No firing on one cylinder would mean the air and fuel intended to be burnt in that cylinder isn't. The lambda sensors can only detect the air and not the fuel so too much air in the exhaust will make the ECU think that bank is running lean and richen the mixture giving you the black, sooty look.
I'm with Tony on this, that does look like a chunk out of the inlet valve too.
Really, you are looking at the do it right, do it once scenario. Skim the heads, lap the valves, new valve stem oil seals, replace anything that looks even slightly suspect and put it back together with a stud kit instead of the stretch bolts. That way I'll last for another 150,000 miles rather than needing the heads pulling off again in a tenth of that.
I wouldn't even consider putting them back without skimming them first. That way you know they are perfectly flat and smooth and you aren't going to be doing the same job again in 20,000 miles time. Skim, head stud conversion and the job is done for good.
I'm a firm believer in if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But, it could be argued that even if it isn't showing signs of leaking it might do soon or it could be partially clogged and can only get worse. That would suggest that changing it would be good idea while you are in there. Whether you choose to do the modification and fit an Audi core or replace for an OE one is up to you but as I say, I don't think there are sufficient upsides to warrant the extra work. If it were mine, I'd leave it alone.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying I don't approve of the Audi mod, I just can't see the point. If you are going to the effort of taking the heater box out to change the matrix, why make extra work for yourself? As I understand it, the Audi core is fatter so bits of the box have to be cut out, then you've got to make up something to hold it in place before you run in the new hoses. When you can undo a couple of screws, pull out the old matrix, slot in a new one and the job is done. Put in some nice new O rings when it goes back in and the job is done and unlikely to need any more attention for the next 15-18 years. In that time you'd almost certainly need to replace the hose from the inlet manifold but you've made that job harder as you've now got to replace the whole run down to the heater.
I'd say check the wiring to it for a short. Normally a temp sensor will show cold if open circuit and hot if short circuit. If it's disconnected, or got a bad connection, that would make it think it is cold and not hot.
Only if you have a Thor, on a GEMS, it's all rubber hoses.
Orangebean wrote:
Why not do the Audi matrix fit as you've got it that far down? For £30 in parts you'll never be troubled by O rings again!
I'm still not sure what the attraction is with the Audi mod. The original O rings lasted about 15-18 years so most owners are unlikely to be troubled by them again anyway. The mod means the temperature sensor is on a rubber hose and not a metal pipe so won't report correct temperatures, the hoses are bulkier than the metal pipes, can perish and start to leak (most people will have had to replace at least some hoses before they've had to replace matrix O rings) and it requires bits to be carved out of the heater box and the matrix then secured in some way. If the original matrix is leaking or damaged by a gorilla doing up the clamp screw, then it'll need to be replaced but personally I'd still opt to replace for an original and retain the O rings.
My thought when reading his reply was that if he goes onto a Range Rover Enthusiasts site and then expects anything other than criticism for butchering one to death, he's on the wrong site........
As standard the cable runs from battery to starter and then from starter to alternator. Nothing wrong with that at all unless the connections at the starter get dirty and a bit of resistance creeps in then not all of the alternator output gets as far as the battery. So running a cable direct from the alternator to battery will improve the charging if the original cable connections aren't perfect. So the improved battery voltage, as a result of the better charging, will make your lights brighter. It won't make a difference to voltage at the starter unless the original cable is getting really bad (usually caused by corrosion inside the end connectors). There aren't any negatives, other than another cable connected to the battery terminal so increasing the chance of a poor connection.
Or just take the existing cables off, make sure the terminal ends are clean and refit with serrated washers to ensure a good connection. Simplest way to check if you have a problem, is to measure the voltage between battery positive and alternator output. Anything more that 20 or 30mV difference with the engine running is too much suggesting poor connections or cables.
So by banning us, RRTH is breaking rule number 1 then.........
There may be some on here that have never come across Mr Toolless but yes, he could be his transatlantic cousin. For those that haven't heard of him, set aside an hour and have a read of this http://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=8148&sid=069854938b88508f0993cf70d362750e