Or a 4.0 litre GEMS or Thor, gearbox may be different but the transfer box is the same.
I'd be inclined to replace the CPS. They aren't expensive and are one of the few things that will stop you dead in your tracks.
Gearboxes are different between 4.0 litre and diesel (ZF4HP22) and 4.6 (ZF4HP24) but no differences between GEMS and Thor and the transfer box is the same on all models and years. Avoid one from a diesel though as the torque lower down the rev range tends to stretch the chains quicker.
We had this a few weeks ago and Gordon changed the cert. Looks like he needs to do it again....
Curiosity really, but what dictates how quickly a gearbox drops the clutch so to speak? In the last few days I've driven 4 different P38s and have noticed a difference when pulling away from a standstill. On mine and OldShep's car when you pull away the revs go up to about 1,800rpm and the torque converter then makes the car accelerate while the revs stay constant. A bit like giving it some throttle and slipping the clutch on a manual. On the SE and one that a mate has just bought that he bought over to me to give the once over, the torque converter seems to lock up immediately and the revs go up as the car accelerates, more like dumping the clutch and booting the throttle on a manual.
I initially thought it would be down to mileage and a bit of wear but mine is on what I assume to be the original gearbox and has done 329,000, while OldShep's car only has 104,000 on the clock. The SE has 134,000 and the one my mate has just bought has 173,000 so that theory would appear to be out of the window. What dictates the speed the TC locks up at in the lower gears then? Is it the fluid, the fluid pressure, the torque converter itself or is it something more subtle like the output signal from the TPS maybe?
Ahh, that's more like it. The XYZ switch needs adjusting. Ideally you need someone to sit in the car and tell you what it is doing. The switch is on the side of the gearbox on the passenger side of the car held in place with a couple of 10mm nuts (or one nut and one bolt to be strictly accurate). Slacken them off and you can rotate the switch. With the lever in Neutral and the ignition on (but engine not running), turn the switch one way or the other until your assistant tells you that the N light has lit up. Nip the fixings up and then go through the gears to make sure that the lever position and the lights match. Once happy that it's right, tighten them up properly. Job done.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Do people still use camcorders?
I do but I've got 4 of them. Sony semi-pro camcorders used for shooting video of meetings, interviews and stuff like that.
Or the PS2 has been configured to output RGB and not composite....... You need a known working video source, do you have a camcorder?
I suppose it's always possible that the remains of the guts of the cat are blocking up the centre box. Drop it off and see what it runs like. It'll sound gorgeous with just the Y pipe although your local plod may not agree......
Orangebean wrote:
Found this thread which might relate to your issue
It doesn't. That's a '95 Classic which only has the one switch rather than the XYZ switch we have.
Gear selection is mechanical by cable but the XYZ switch (which is attached to the side of the gearbox and driven by the same cable) tells the electronics what position the mechanical lever is in. The outputs from the switch are used by the gearbox ECU as well as the displays. If the mechanical lever and switch position don't correspond, that flags up as an error and you go into limp mode and gearbox fault comes up on the dash. In limp mode the sport button doesn't work either. The change from High to Low is done by a switch under the centre console (which instructs the transfer box ECU to operate the motor to change ratio) but with no signal to show you are in Neutral, it won't allow the motor to do anything.
What are you using as a video source? US standard NTSC video will display in B&W on a PAL display (and I think the other way round too).
Ooerr, weird. If one of the 3 switches in the XYZ switch dies then the lights next to the lever and the dash display don't correspond with the lever position but as all other positions are reading fine, then it isn't that. There's 3 wires come from the XYZ switch and they go to the lights next to the lever and the BeCM which gives the dash display. Neutral should have a ground on the Y switch with the other two open. If that ground is missing, so all three are open, then you get no display at all and Gearbox Fault on the dash. If the X switch was shorted to ground then when in Neutral it would show you as being in Reverse, 1 would show as 2 and D would show as 3. If the Z switch was shorted to ground, N would show as D, P would show as 2 and R would show as 3. So no combinations of a disconnected or shorted line will give no display when in neutral. Not a scoopy on that one mate.......
Do you mean you physically can't get the lever to stop in the Neutral position? You must be able to go through Neutral to get from R to D, what happens then? If all the other lights are working, what about the display on the message centre? Does that read correct? If they are both reading correctly, then it isn't a problem with the XYZ switch.
My centre box removed itself without any assistance from me at all..... Someone, Sloth I think, has replaced the centre box with a length of pipe so is only using the tailpipe boxes for silencing. Not heard it myself but he reckons it sounds good although I'd be concerned about it droning a bit on long journeys which could start to get annoying.
A complete replacement would have a warranty and would be the best way to go even at £700 for one from Ashcrofts, at least you'll know it's perfect then. The transfer box uses Dexron 3 the same as the auto gearbox but if the chain has stretched then it needs to come off anyway. Mine developed an evil vibration about 3 years ago and after doing things like prop UJs and the like, I figured the transfer box was the only thing left so bought one from a breaker to put in. It didn't cure the vibration but not long afterwards I booted it to change lanes a bit quick and got the crack as the chain jumped a tooth. Turned out the rear oil seal was leaking and filling the parking brake with ATF so the lack of lube had worn the chain. Swapped my original one back in and no problems. Vibration turned out to be a seized bearing in the rear diff which I'd ignored because I'd changed it not that long before (the downside of secondhand parts, they may have no more life in them than the ones you are taking out)..
RAVE tells you to disconnected the handbrake cable at the lever and to take the propshaft shield, gearchange cable and exhaust Y section off. I left them all in place and disconnected the handbrake cable at the drum end. It's tight but it will come out like that. You'll need some very long extensions and a universal joint to get at the top bolts. RAVE also tells you, but not until you get to the putting it back in section, to always replace the gearbox output shaft oil seal if the transfer box has been off. As I hadn't followed the taking it apart section I didn't bother reading the putting it back together bit so didn't. That resulted in it having to come out again to change the seal as I was coating the underside of the car in a liberal coat of ATF. It's a heavy old beast though and needs at least two of you to put it back (gravity does the job of getting it out).
If you are going to change the hose, which is a good idea while you are at it, be careful when you pull the hose off. It can go brittle with age and it's possible to snap the brass spud off. Your best bet it to slit it lengthwise with a Stanley knife so it comes off easier.
The earlier Clarion radio in the pre-2000 cars are dead easy to fit an aux in. Auto switches too so if you have something plugged in it plays that, unplug it and it goes back to radio or whatever it was left on before. Have a look here http://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/index.html#clarion with how to add Bluetooth if you want it. Rather than solder to the base of the connector header, I soldered the wires to the other side of the board where the pins are soldered.
Yes, the nozzles are just something to attach the hose to, the ones that set the size are in the injectors.