You can get at both the drivers side ones by taking the instrument panel out but you will need a small ratchet No 2 Pozidrive screw bit. Passenger one can be got at by dropping the glovebox out. Both are fiddly but there is no need to take the dash out. Have a look at this http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html
All three blend motors are iffy and there's a problem with the compressor clutch. It may be that it is down to a lack of refrigerant or that the HEVAC can't detect the load of the clutch. The latter happens if someone tries fitting a relay to power the compressor rather than direct from the HEVAC (I know as I tried it.....).
When you take it in to get the AC re-gassed the first thing every place I've ever been to has done has been to pressurise it with Nitrogen and see if it holds pressure. I had to replace the condenser on mine and also had a leaking hose on the compressor. If it does need a condenser, be very careful as it is easy to shear off the ends leaving you with a lump stuck inside the union.
For the cruise, obviously check the hoses for leaks but if you don't find any there's a test procedure in the RAVE ETM at the end of section B5.
Yeah, the breather hole is on the top but the pipe falls off. As it is directly below the AC drain on that side, water drops straight into it. When that happens you usually get all sorts of weird readings where it shows you to be in a completely different gear to what the lever says. If you do replace it, which is probably your best option, stick a bit of washer hose on the breather tube and loop it over so it points downwards.
With it fully slack and the gear lever in the Neutral position, you should be able to get the lights to swing through from Reverse to Drive by turning the switch. You can open it up but be very careful. There are three little plastic shuttles in there that have a habit of falling out and hiding in the most awkward places.
But, as I said before, the neutral light should be lit when the Y switch is grounded and the other two are open. That would make you think that the Y switch is not closing (so not giving a ground signal) but as Reverse is X and Y both grounded, Reverse would read as first because first is X only grounded. No output from any switches (which you would get when in Neutral if Y has failed) is not a valid combination so would bring on the Gearbox Fault message and no lights. It almost sounds as though someone has been in there before. Is the switch riveted together or have the rivets been drilled out and replaced with screws? In which case all bets are off and you'd best start looking for another XYZ switch.
Sounds like the brushes are worn right down. Snip the tie wrap that secures the plastic trunking that the wiring loom passes through and you can move the loom out of the way to get the drivers fan out. It's tight, and one of the screws is a bit awkward to get to, but it can be done.
Actual temperature isn't important with the LPG sensor, as long as it is showing that the reducer is warm enough that the coolant isn't going to freeze. You could even short it out so it thinks it is very hot and manually change over once the engine has had a few minutes to warm up. I must admit, I've always thought that a variable resistance can't be that accurate anyway, a few Ohms one way or another is going to be interpreted as a difference of a few degrees. My intake air temperatures always shows about 10 degrees lower than ambient on the Nano and I can't believe there's that much chill factor.
Oh yes, I also confirmed the heavily compressed temperature gauge yesterday. Spent the day at Woburn Safari Park and while sitting idling in a very long queue while monkeys put dirty footprints on my, and everyone else's, bonnet and roof, watching an Astra start to get very hot, I looked at my temperature gauge. Instead of the usual 12 o'clock, it was showing about 1 minute past, nowhere near the red yet but heading in that direction and higher than normal. Whipped the Nano out of the pocket on the back of the passenger seat and plugged it in. Coolant temperature showing as a steady 104 degrees. Considering it had been idling for well over an hour by then (following an 80 mph thrash to get there), that seemed about right. It stayed at between 102 and 104 for the next half hour or so until we started moving and it dropped down to 96 degrees as soon as we got moving by which time the gauge was back at 12 o'clock. Out of interest, I started it from cold this morning with the Nano plugged in and it was at 12 o'clock as soon as it reached 85 degrees. So anything between 85 and 102 degrees is shown as normal and it only starts to rise when it gets above that.
No need to pull the dash just for blend motors. With the side panel off the centre console and the instrument binnacle out, you can get to the ones on the drivers side easily enough, glovebox out for the passenger side. You'll need either a right angle pozidrive screwdriver or a small ratchet with a pozidrive bit. Others will say that if you pull the dash you can then get the whole heater box out and replace the foam in the joints in the ducts, free up any sticky flaps, etc but you can get to most of the joints and seal them with duct tape (possibly the only time you will ever us duct tape for it's intended purpose) and I've not found one with flaps that sticky that they have warranted that amount of work. Have a look at this http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html for blend motors and this http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/electrical/fusebox.html for the fusebox.
But if you've been running on LPG since then and it still isn't correct, they will have drifted off again.
Drone at 40-50 mph definitely sounds like a diff, dropping one or other propshaft off will identify which end. Just make sure you put at least a couple of nuts on the parking brake drum when you test it. The little countersunk screw may look like it's holding it on but it soon works loose and it'll make quite a mess as it makes a bid for freedom from under the car. Still can't offer much help on the lack of grunt though, although running on petrol for a while to make the adaptives reset may give a clue.
HEVAC self tests the blend motors at start up. It expects to see them reach the end of their travel within a certain amount of time. If it doesn't see the expected feedback signal, due to either a motor that has got sluggish or a feedback pot that isn't doing anything (both common failures), it logs a fault and doesn't bother trying to move them again. Once they are out, you may find that a squirt of contact cleaner in the motor and pot can cure the problem, at least temporarily.
Bottom ones go dome side up, top ones go dome side down so it's only the very centre that is in contact with the metal insert in the mounts.
Shouldn't be, it wouldn't run all the time (in fact, once up to height it shouldn't need to run at all) and the only time you can hear it is when the washers on the mounting studs are on upside down. Normally the only way you can tell if your EAS pump is running is by putting your hand on it.
If it's on the over run I'd suggest a noisy diff but that wouldn't cause it to be gutless.
I'd suggest getting a stud kit for when you put it back together. The overheat could have stressed the threads in the block and the studs will put less strain on them than stretch bolts.
Don't see why not, pedestals and rockers are all the same, just check to make sure none of the rockers have suffered from sunken socket syndrome. I would suggest that pressure test fail was written on the block and that is why the top hats were fitted. At least you know you've got a good basis for the rebuild.
On my SE, which due to the Britpart water pump being completely sh*gged after less than 2000 miles, yes. That's how I know how damped the dash gauge is because it got up to 105 degrees and the gauge still sat in the middle, it was only after it rose above that the gauge started to rise. The gauge sits in the middle at anything between 85 and 105, only hitting the red when it gets to 110 degrees, but by then you know that it is overheating from the other symptoms......
I read somewhere that the 406 uses the same blend motors so might be worth grabbing them. Ours are made by Valeo and I suspect the Pug ones are too.
Mines got the extra boss welded into the RH downpipe with a Zirconia in it, just after the standard one. I wouldn't use a single wire as if the ground isn't perfect, it will skew the readings. As you are looking at a signal of less than a volt, even a 0.1V drop is going to have quite an effect so you want at least a 2 wire with the ground back to the common ground for the Leonardo. I've got a 4 wire in mine (with the heater fed directly off an ignition switched supply), an NTK intended for a Ford Focus as I found the cheapo eBay generic ones last about a year if you are lucky. To deal with volt drops, I took all of the grounds (solenoids, level sender, lambda sensor as well as the main ground for the Leo) back to a single soldered on connector at the battery negative.
Looks like it's about to blow over, http://www.raintoday.co.uk/ and that I might get some later. If it arrives when FP3 or quali is on from Monaco that should time it about right, no distractions outside.