I don't have a problem and we do have 4 or 5 L322 owners registered. Main problem is that the majority of us here own P38s so that is what we have experience of and gets spoken about. We can offer suggestions based on experience rather than what we can find (and you could too) by using Google. However, in saying that diagnosing a fault is the same no matter what you are talking about, you work out the correct sequence of things and stop when it stops. It's one of those things that you either have or you don't in the same way as some people become engineers and others become artists. We've all got RAVE and that covers the L322 so working through a problem is no different, we just won't have the benefit of having been there.

There is one thing though, and I have recently been over to France a couple of times to maintain a P38 belonging to a French resident originally from Florida and she did the same. They are Range Rovers made by Land Rover, a Rover is one of these.......

There's two, a single pressure switch and the trinary switch. Trinary has a Schrader valve behind it so can be changed with gas in the system, the pressure switch doesn't.

No it won't as the pressure switch won't let it. However, it isn't unknown for the connectors to the pressure switches to go bad so it still won't work even if there is gas in it.

I bought a pair of Britpart ones from Island a couple of months ago and they were fine. No idea how long they will last but they fitted fine and swivelled just like they should.

Well past, in fact, I'd go so far as say it's knackered.

If the book symbol has gone, you've no current faults (although there will probably be loads of historic ones). A lack of refrigerant won't usually bring on the book. Does the compressor kick in? Simple check to see if there is any gas in it is to poke the Shrader valve in the fill port. If nothing comes out, it's empty. If it is full, you'll lose a little but not enough to cause a problem.

I wish I could find one in a breakers, there's so many seemingly insignificant bits that would be worth having. Door latches, remote receiver, HK DSP amp (if it has one and still works it's worth a bloody fortune) just for starters. That's before you even start with the HEVAC, blend motors, etc. Not sure if the fuse box will be right for yours though. There's 3 different ones fitted to the petrol engined cars and another 2 different ones for the diesel and they are not interchangeable.

Sounds fine to me except for the tappet. I suspect you've got one with the sunken insert as it sounds exactly the same as my mates did when he had that problem. Did you check them before putting them back?

Right, that's my car loaded. As well as a 2 tonne trolley jack and all of the other tools I carry normally (which is basically everything I need to do anything on the car), I've got a roll of Kunifer and a pipe flaring kit, a wirebrush for cleaning headlining shells, a foam roller for rolling the new headlining material down, a decent pair of scissors, a couple of Stanley knives and pack of replacement blades, can of contact cleaner spray, set of trim removal tools, a disposable barbecue in case Miles needs more cooking space, a load of paper plates and some polystyrene coffee cups. Then there's the Nanocom in the car along with an old Panasonic Toughbook with the EASUnlock software on it and a cable to connect (which I actually prefer to use to the Nano for the EAS) and I'll also have this laptop with me with RAVE on it. In the fridge there's burgers and sausages which will be transferred to the fridge in the car tomorrow morning before we set off.

Anything else I need to bung in the boot?

I had no faults showing either when I swapped the block back into the SE, it just sat there and did nothing.

France is much the same too, everything will be ready tomorrow but by the time tomorrow arrives, it's today.

But, why is the country, The Philippines, spelt with a Ph but a native is a Filipino with an F (and only one p)?

I swapped a perfectly working block from one car to another for testing purposes and it was fine. Then swapped it back into the original car and it did all sorts of weird things. It had been working perfectly before and on the other car but didn't want to know when put back in it's original home. Gave the big multi plug a squirt of contact cleaner, plugged it back in and it all worked perfectly again. They obviously don't like being disturbed.

Anyone else seen this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Vogue-P38-Ascot-Edition-with-LPG/272743775017

An early car but looks very tidy and the faults all look stupidly simple.
Brakes, tied in with the ABS light on will be either pump or modulator, parking brake means it needs adjusting or was tested on a roller by an MoT tester not knowing what he was doing, a pair of wipers and a washer pump needed and the fact that the emissions show a lambda fail mean it was tested on petrol even though it's got an AEB LPG system fitted (from the switch, almost certainly a Leonardo like on mine, dead simple and cheap even if the lot needs replacing). Then it just needs a couple of ball joints.

If I didn't already have the SE, I'd be whacking a cheeky bidnapper bid on it myself as the auction will end when we're on the way home from Summer Camp (shame it doesn't end a bit sooner so it could be at summer camp, it'd all be sorted in a matter of minutes if everyone descended on it like vultures and did a job each). .

mace wrote:

One suggestion I found online was to figure out which wire on the back of the HEVAC drives the clutch, and put 12 volts down it to check whether it does anything. Not had time to do this yet. Any other thoughts on where to look?

The feed from the HEVAC to the compressor clutch goes via the multiway connector in the RH footwell, behind the panel where the fuel shut off switch lives. When mine was only working intermittently, I found it was dropping volts due to a corroded connection in there so bypassed it. I also had a too large air gap on the compressor clutch (needs to be between 17 and 30 thou but closer to the lower figure if possible) so took the shim out from behind it and it's worked perfectly ever since.

My 4.6 gems sounds significantly more tractor like - is this normal between the two generations, or is my engine still not right?

Don't forget your engine is still tight. Mine didn't sound good when I first fired it up and didn't really want to rev either. Wait until after you've done the 1,000 miles with cheapo oil and done a change before getting too worried. As said, valvegear is the main source of rattles and that hasn't been changed.

If my experience with my Land Rover dealer is anything to go by, you will need to go in with a V5 in your name and your driving licence to prove it is your car. Although some might, they won't normally give it to you over the phone.

Might be as simple as wheel balance, could be shocks, steering damper, ball joints, really anything on the front end. You just need to give it a good look with a crowbar and see if you can find anything with any play in it.

Another £25 ish each for a rebuild kit for both and you've got a complete spare system for around a ton. Got to be worth having. If they are any good you can stick them on yours and then have another go at doing a rebuild at your leisure.

You're right, clicking the faults box appears to do nothing but if you had faults showing it will have cleared them.

Shame you're not coming to the Summer Camp, there's a geriatric Panasonic Toughbook (with a serial port) and EAS cable that live in my car.

Are you using the USB to serial adapter as that is usually what causes comms to drop, ideally you need a computer with a serial port but there aren't many of those about these days. The button marked Faults (the one that just looks like a box rather than a button) should clear any even if you haven't read them first. You'll probably need to click the Unlock EAS button, then Faults. Clicking on the Stop button and then shutting the program down is the proper way to exit it although I had a fault once that kept re-appearing if I did that. I found that if I just unplugged that cable, the fault stayed gone. It's got to be worth a try as RSW EASUnlock is the only stand alone software that exists, the only alternatives are A Nanocom, Faultmate, etc which cost considerably more.

We'll be there for the Morat gastronomic treats. We'll also bring some plastic or card plates (depending on what my local Tesco Extra has on the shelf), a couple of disposable barbecues (in case you run out of cooking space) and a few burgers and sausages to add to the feast.

I would think someone will have time to drive your car and there's no shortage of poor surfaces. In fact, there's a distinct lack of decent ones......