There are some parts they can't get wrong (although I did once buy a Britpart hose only to find there was no way it would fit as it was too small diameter) and others are OE but just supplied through them. Problem is, you don't know the bad from the not so bad......
Now you've just got to fix the oil leak that caused oil to get in there in the first place......
Assuming it's a Hall effect sensor like the ABS and crank sensors, checking the resistance would be a simple place to start. If it's open circuit or very high resistance, it's likely to be dead.
I used to have access to a garage with a pit and stopped using it as I found it more comfortable laying on the floor. The pit wasn't quite deep enough to stand up and if I was kneeling then I was working above my head with my arms fully stretched. The advantage with the P38 is if the suspension is put on high, there's enough space to crawl under there with it (although I'm only skinny).
Clive's thread on lifting his car has disappeared not because it broke any forum rules ('cuz there aren't any), but because Ferryman started writing a reply and then attempted to edit it. Unfortunately, he deleted the whole thread and not just his own post......
It might be recoverable but I'm not sure how often backups are done so it may have been lost forever, doh!
Both of mine have it on the inner wing next to the battery. Fine unless you have a huge non-standard battery fitted.
They aren't actually microswitches but plastic blocks with the contacts underneath them and a small plastic shuttle that bears on the indents in the quadrant at one end and the springy contacts at the other. So contact cleaner will find it's way there eventually. On the two non-working ones I've opened up, the moisture has got in the vent hole and rotted through the thin wires running from the terminals at the far right in the picture (where the wires are attached on the other side) and the tracks that run to the switch contacts. I've managed to dig enough of the plastic out to allow me to solder jumper wires in place of the rotted bits. Fiddly but with the cost of a new one, worth the effort. When that happens though one switch (X, Y or Z) stops working completely so the display makes no sense at all. I would suspect that if it is only Neutral that isn't showing, the Y switch shuttle or the quadrant track is worn so the Y switch isn't closing when in Neutral but it is working when needed in the other gears.
First one is standard SMA not RP (Reversed Polarity), second says it's RP SMA but the picture shows standard SMA. The only one I could find on eBay is this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-RP-SMA-Female-Plug-Center-to-RP-SMA-Female-in-Series-RF-Adapter-Connector/322065869481 but the seller is in China so no telling how long it would take to get here.
You like the difficult ones don't you. I don't even have RP SMA adapters in my inter-series adapter kit. The only one I can find is here https://www.data-alliance.net/rp-sma-female-to-female-coupler-adapter-reverse-polarity-connector/ but as the supplier is in the US, it might take a while to get one. Your alternative would be to use a RP SMA to SMA adapter like this http://uk.farnell.com/amphenol-connex/132169rp/adaptor-sma-jack-sma-rp-jack-straight/dp/2293719 and a SMA male to RP SMA female like this http://uk.farnell.com/amphenol-connex/132171rp/adaptor-sma-plug-sma-rp-jack-50ohm/dp/1462750. Not cheap but the two screwed together will give you RP SMA female to RP SMA female.
It's what we refer to at work as an incompatible systems interface or bodge dongle.......
Hmm, well I did once try to start a car that had been standing for 7 years on the fuel that was in the tank. Took a good blast of starter fluid in the air intake to get it to fire and once running it absolutely stank. Didn't run that well either. However, you'll be pleased to hear that I now have a blend of roughly 25% 9 month old Latvian petrol and 75% BP Ultimate in my tank. I suppose I'll need to use some now.......
Yuck, that one has definitely had something inside it. Water in the vent hole or someone has already tried filling it with WD40 or the like. Normally they are dry inside or at least should be.
I've want to call in at Marshall's sometime today to get the EKA code for another car I have here, I'll drop you a text when I'm in the area.
It's detecting a fault of some sort but you need diagnostics plugging in to find out what. What time do you have lunch, I can drop in to you at work and plug the Nanocom in to see what it is saying if you want.
Give it a squirt of contact cleaner down the hole where the wires go in and another squirt down the breather tube hole. It might work, you never know. but I'd grab another if you can get one from the scrappy.
No idea but I did buy the 98 octane good stuff. I must admit, the exhaust is a bit smelly when running on petrol so it may well be decomposing. Might be worth bunging a bit of fresh in there. What would you recommend? Tesco 99 or do I get some of the gold plated Shell stuff?
Orangebean wrote:
I'm spoiled by the blue one that starts and runs from cold on gas. The black one has the depressing dropping petrol gauge even though its running on gas. You actually use quite a lot of petrol (relative to the blue one) if you only do short runs several times a day.
That is why I say to set the delay as short as possible. Doing lots of short runs, meant the SE was using more petrol than gas as it insisted on running on petrol for the first minute every time it was started. Like you, the white one on a singlepoint runs on gas from stone cold, the petrol in the tank has been in there since I filled up last September in Latvia.......
Threshold revs want to be pretty low, the revs on my SE were set at 2,000 rpm and if you are driving it gently they never got that high, I had to wait until the lights showed it was ready to change over then drop it into neutral and rev it. So you probably want to set something like 1,300 rpm. Temp for changeover was the one thing that was correct on the SE settings, again set it low, 35-40 degrees will get you running on gas as soon as the cold start enrichment phase has ended. If it runs a bit rough as soon as it changes over, raise it a little. Petrol-gas delay wants to be as low as you can get it. I found on the SE it was set at 60 seconds so even when the engine was fully hot, it insisted on running on petrol for a minute before it even thought about changing over when in reality it could have changed over immediately. Overlap is the delay between turning on the gas and turning off the petrol. That's going to vary on different systems but try 500mS if that is an option. If it tries to die at changeover, increase it a bit until changeover is smooth.
This is what I found with the eGas system on the SE so the settings and options may be different on an AEB system, but the theory is the same just the available settings may be different.
My boss bought his son a socket set and a Jaguar XJS for his 10th birthday.......
It probably was as I've heard that these days they are only quoting a couple of hours to do the job. There were a very few early base spec cars (usually diesels) that didn't get AC but almost all did. I did the blend motors on mine not long after I got it and couldn't see what all the fuss was about, I just took the side panel off the centre console and got to them from there. Then realised that as a special order for Plod, mine doesn't have the ducts down the sides to feed the rear vents (no point in having vents when the rear is going to be full of traffic cones). Did the heater O rings on a LHD car a couple of days ago and the duct put up a bit of a fight, but gave in eventually. With that out you can see the blend motors from the side but with it still in place you do need to go in from above (which on a LHD car would involve removing the passenger air bag).