dhallworth wrote:

there's not a massive amount of work required.

I seem to recall Orangebean saying something similar........

Transfer case chain stretch is fairly common and is usually the only problem you get with them. On hard acceleration it makes a noise like a machine gun under your feet as the chain jumps a tooth at a time. New chain isn't cheap (not if you get a good quality one anyway) but that and new oil seals are about all you need, they rarely fail in any other way.

As you are running on LPG you don't need the cats at all. BUT, a car that was originally fitted with cats that has had them taken off is an automatic MoT fail. My MoT tester takes the view that as the cats aren't needed for the emissions test then the removal of the cats can be considered as part of the LPG conversion. Others may not take the same view and insist that as it originally had them it needs to have them still. The other way is to take the cats off and using a long chisel and hammer, bash the guts out of them so it appears to have cats even though there is nothing in the boxes (as I've done on mine).

That's all that is needed quite often. As you found you get a groove in the pipe where the O rings bear on it and they start to leak, slicing a bit off the end and the leak goes away. However, normally the fact the cars drops to it's knees whenever it's left gets ignored, the pump has to work overtime so wears itself out, the owner gets quoted a stupid price to replace the pump so they end up putting springs on instead. All for the sake of 20 minutes with a Stanley knife......

Leave it in. Once the car is down to access height, push the collet and pipe in, then while holding the collet in, pull the pipe out (you might need to wiggle it about a bit). Then just pull the collet out with long nosed pliers so you pull it out straight. RAVE says to remove the old O rings with a crochet hook (not something most of us have in the bottom of the toolbox) but a bit of bent copper wire does the job or anything else as long as it is softer than the valve block so you don't scratch the bore that the O ring sits in. A bit of Fairy liquid or vaseline on the O rings and pop them in followed by the collet. If you look at the air line you will probably see a slight groove where the old O rings were bearing on it, that will give a potential leak even with new O rings so trim a mm or so off the end and chamfer the end of the pipe with a pencil sharpener. More Fairy liquid on the end of the pipe and push it all the way into the hole. With no pressure there, it may try to come out again once pressure is behind it so push it fully in and then pull the collet out so it locks the pipe in, then start her up and let the pressure build. Check if you still have a leak with a squirt of Fairy liquid and water.

From the above you will realise that EAS work involves you to have children (to supply the pencil sharpener) and a missus who is into craft type things and housework (to supply the crochet hook and Fairy liquid).

Another one with the extra speaker on top if the dash, they must have had a few speakers left over towards the end of the production run. Not sure about the green wood trim though.

There was talk of it happening twice a year but the winter one never happened. Last year it was an assortment of jobs that people either didn't feel confident to tackling on their own, things that needed a bit of diagnosing first or things that needed more than one person so everyone could get stuck in and lend a hand. My missus came along and bought a couple of disposable barbecues and stuff to put on them as she said she knows what blokes are like when they start playing with cars but Morat proved himself to be the barbecue king. This year it seems like headlinings are the thing. We did mine last year so have learnt from our mistakes so it looks like me and Dina will be doing the glueing, while Morat provides the food and (hopefully) someone else will be pulling trims off to get the shells out ready for the new material to be stuck on.

That and a hotel down the road and a few beers in the evening should provide for an entertaining way of spending a weekend. The only criteria is that you need a thick skin because if you happen to say or do the wrong thing it will be remembered and you'll have the piss taken out of for weeks afterwards.

Railway station is more important than you might think. I bought a Merc for my partner and got a really good deal as it was on eBay with a location in darkest Wales miles from the nearest railway station. Didn't bother me because I just hired a trailer for the day and went and picked it up on that (cheaper than it would have cost in fuel to drive it back) but from what the seller was saying, the location had put a few people off.

If it isn't mint and needs a bit of work, you might as well swap a few bits over. As long as it has an exhaust on it (and you don't take the pictures showing the stainless one), nobody will expect to see anything other than a standard system. I still reckon if you put it on eBay with a start price of £1500 then you might be pleasantly surprised, decent ones, or at least ones that can be made decent with a bit of elbow grease rather than money, are going up in value.

Sounds to me like you should be trying to flog it to your father in law for £3k......

I think it depends a lot of the colour, where it is and how you advertise it. You'll see some ads with crappy phone pictures taken at night and an ad full of speeling mistaks that still manage to fetch £2k. With a decently worded ad and some nice photos, a 2000 on LPG should be going for £2.5k and up. The colour is what people see first and if you are near to a railway station so someone can get to you easily that all helps.

No idea about a Vogue diesel but they did do the DHSE which had all the same toys as an HSE except it had the little 6 pot oil burner under the bonnet instead of a V8. If it was a DHSE and later than 2000 I suspect it would have had the sat nav as standard. No idea what you got extra on a Vogue over an HSE but no doubt someone will come along with the full spec.

Yes. made up a length of pipe so I could squirt carb cleaner through the injectors while clacking them open and closed with a couple of bits of wire and a battery. Ideally needs 3 hands but it can be done with just two.......

No not gone that far yet. Missus did give me a bit of a funny look when the dishwasher beeped to say it had finished and she opened it to find a front fog light in there. How else am I supposed to get the tide marks off the inside of the lens when it had a crack at the top allowing it to fill up with rainwater?

Injector cleaner might do the job but if it's been run mostly on LPG then chances are the petrol injectors are getting a bit gummed up. Mine runs a single point so switches to gas as soon as it's started so uses virtually no petrol (I've still got petrol in the tank bought in September last year) and until I took the injectors out and gave them a good clean it ran like a dog.

If it comes out, 9 times out of 10 it doesn't slot back in to the gearbox fully and the gearbox oil pump splines don't mesh so you get it all back in, fire the engine up and you've got no drive. Whenever I've taken one out I've jammed a lump of wood in through the inspection hole in the bottom of the bellhousing to hold the TC in place in the gearbox as the engine is pulled out.

no10chris wrote:

once done, fire it up with door open, if your compressor is good it will lift after 4-5 minutes,,

But not until you close the door as leaving a door open inhibits any suspension movement.

A cable like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38a-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-FAULT-CODE-RESET-DIAGNOSTIC-PC-TOOL-UK-/112207172412?hash=item1a2011933c:g:ISQAAOSw4GVYLX2f will do the job if you have a geriatric laptop with a serial port, otherwise one with a USB adapter like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P38a-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-FAULT-CODE-RESET-DIAGNOSTIC-CODE-READER-PC-TOOL-/282300279231?hash=item41ba6869bf:g:esMAAOSwItFYXFHG will either come with the software or a link to download it (or just download it from http://www.rswsolutions.com/media/rangerover_easunlock_suite_win32_10-20-08.zip).

You got here in the end then. welcome. I'm a bit south of you but Morat is up East Yorkshire way, does that count?

Lift the engine on an engine crane, remove the engine mounts and then lower the engine down as far as it will go. You should then be able to get at the top bellhousing bolts. As Sloth says, do not try to remove the engine with the TC attached, undo the flex plate bolts and leave it in the gearbox.

My drum did have a big Philips head screw holding it on, but a blast up to 70mph to see if my howl had gone soon loosened it off with no rear propshaft attached. Another mile or so and I reckon the screw would have fallen out rapidly followed by the drum making a bid for freedom from under the car.

and make sure you put a couple of nuts on the rear prop mounting on the parking brake drum or it'll fall off.

A couple of weeks ago I noticed the nearside rear brake backplate looked a bit damp. The rear discs didn't look brilliant and I knew it was getting close to needing pads on the back too so ordered a couple of rear discs and an axle oil seal (I already had the pads). Finally found time to do it today. I somehow doubt my nearside rear brake was doing much......

At least everything came undone easily enough though, unlike the other side which hasn't been doused in axle oil. One of the caliper slider pins was seized solid but rather than trying to twist it out and shearing it off as I have done in the past, I decided to get a bit more technical. I drilled a 5mm hole in the caliper carrier behind the pin and tapped it with an M6 thread. Then I filled it with Plus Gas and left it to soak for a while. Screwed an M6 bolt into my tapped hole and it pushed the pin out easily. Once I'd cleaned everything up, I just cut the bolt down and screwed it into my hole to stop any crud getting in there.

Rather than trying to move the gearbox as that would almost certainly involve removing the crossmember which is not a fun job, I'd be inclined to move the engine forwards. If the exhaust downpipes are disconnected from the manifolds, the viscous coupling and fan (and possibly the radiator) taken off, with the aid of an engine crane you should be able to move the engine forward far enough. That is always assuming you need to change it, give it a good check with the plate at the bottom off.