Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying I don't approve of the Audi mod, I just can't see the point. If you are going to the effort of taking the heater box out to change the matrix, why make extra work for yourself? As I understand it, the Audi core is fatter so bits of the box have to be cut out, then you've got to make up something to hold it in place before you run in the new hoses. When you can undo a couple of screws, pull out the old matrix, slot in a new one and the job is done. Put in some nice new O rings when it goes back in and the job is done and unlikely to need any more attention for the next 15-18 years. In that time you'd almost certainly need to replace the hose from the inlet manifold but you've made that job harder as you've now got to replace the whole run down to the heater.

I'd say check the wiring to it for a short. Normally a temp sensor will show cold if open circuit and hot if short circuit. If it's disconnected, or got a bad connection, that would make it think it is cold and not hot.

Only if you have a Thor, on a GEMS, it's all rubber hoses.

Orangebean wrote:

Why not do the Audi matrix fit as you've got it that far down? For £30 in parts you'll never be troubled by O rings again!

I'm still not sure what the attraction is with the Audi mod. The original O rings lasted about 15-18 years so most owners are unlikely to be troubled by them again anyway. The mod means the temperature sensor is on a rubber hose and not a metal pipe so won't report correct temperatures, the hoses are bulkier than the metal pipes, can perish and start to leak (most people will have had to replace at least some hoses before they've had to replace matrix O rings) and it requires bits to be carved out of the heater box and the matrix then secured in some way. If the original matrix is leaking or damaged by a gorilla doing up the clamp screw, then it'll need to be replaced but personally I'd still opt to replace for an original and retain the O rings.

My thought when reading his reply was that if he goes onto a Range Rover Enthusiasts site and then expects anything other than criticism for butchering one to death, he's on the wrong site........

As standard the cable runs from battery to starter and then from starter to alternator. Nothing wrong with that at all unless the connections at the starter get dirty and a bit of resistance creeps in then not all of the alternator output gets as far as the battery. So running a cable direct from the alternator to battery will improve the charging if the original cable connections aren't perfect. So the improved battery voltage, as a result of the better charging, will make your lights brighter. It won't make a difference to voltage at the starter unless the original cable is getting really bad (usually caused by corrosion inside the end connectors). There aren't any negatives, other than another cable connected to the battery terminal so increasing the chance of a poor connection.

Or just take the existing cables off, make sure the terminal ends are clean and refit with serrated washers to ensure a good connection. Simplest way to check if you have a problem, is to measure the voltage between battery positive and alternator output. Anything more that 20 or 30mV difference with the engine running is too much suggesting poor connections or cables.

So by banning us, RRTH is breaking rule number 1 then.........

There may be some on here that have never come across Mr Toolless but yes, he could be his transatlantic cousin. For those that haven't heard of him, set aside an hour and have a read of this http://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=8148&sid=069854938b88508f0993cf70d362750e

My experience has always been that Champions cause misfires rather than cure them and haven't used anything but NGK for years in everything. I normally leave the plugs at standard gap but some have found gapping them down to 0.7mm (25 thou in old money) has made a difference. It does sound like you have one cylinder that is missing, see what the plugs look like, that may give a clue if one looks different to the others. That or try pulling a lead at a time with it at idle and see which one makes no difference.

Noise from the rear may well be a propshaft UJ although diff isn't out of the question. Checking the UJs with the prop in place isn't easy but if you have any up and down movement in the diff input then the nose bearing is the problem.

I was thinking that it could be amusing to send a link to the thread to Verticalscope and suggest that them and their site administrator could be held liable for the lawsuit that results when someone copies his workmanship and destroys themselves. They could be sued for not pointing out that what he is doing is criminally dangerous......

As for the switches, he probably doesn't need any of them if you think about it. I doubt his cruise control will work, hazards and rear fogs aren't a legal requirement in the States, he's on coils so doesn't need the switches for that and will probably bodge some big lights on the front that will be tied into the headlight wiring.

Considering what he has done to the rest of the car, the dash is up to the same high engineering and aesthetic standard as the rest of the work. I'm wondering what he's done with the switches that now don't have a home?

With any luck the first time he takes it out on the road, the hand drilled wheels will fall off and he'll destroy the car and hopefully improve the gene pool while he's at it. Either that or he lights up a spliff inside it and the underseal he's used to paint the headlining will burst into flames and destroy the whole sorry looking thing. It started off looking rough when he got it and he's succeeded in making it look even worse........

Not yet, that'll only happen after Brexit.......

You've got nothing more than would be found anywhere else. The wireless ISP equipment will be on 2.4 and 5.8 GHz, usually 2.4 for the access points and 5.8 for the backhaul. Phone tower will be upwards of 926 and, depending on the operator, 1.8, 1.9 and 2.1 GHz so nowhere near 433. The only other thing is wireless alarms which, if they are older ones will be on 433 but newer ones are on 868, but even then, they will only transmit when the alarm needs to be triggered (although I have come across older 433 window sensors that transmit constantly when a spider takes up residence inside them). About the only thing you have even remotely close is your own Hytera base station on 453.

I've no idea what receiver is in mine, I've never had cause to look but I've only ever had a problem three times in the time I've owned it. Once in a country pub car park, once in the centre of town (both down to something being on that shouldn't be undoubtedly) and once at home when the battery started to die in my heating oil level sensor and it went onto permanent transmit.

My money would be on an intermittent problem with the fob. If you can get a key blade cut to use in the interim, I'd be inclined to send it for a full refurb to the place OB suggested.

Ah that's right. You went from LPGForum to there but very rapidly got steered this way.....

Actually RRTH has been remarkably civil for the last couple of days (maybe he's reading on here and found out what people won't or can't say to him directly) although if anyone fancies trying for a banning, maybe they would point out that he's given a civil answer that is completely wrong. Someone asked which coolant sensor is the one that the engine ECU takes it's reading from and he was told the green one. Completely wrong, the green one feeds the temperature gauge on the dash, the black ones tells the ECU what the coolant temperature is. How do I know? Easy, I broke a wire of the plug for the green one and my temperature gauge stopped working......

That would explain why very occasionally he posts helpful replies, other times he just tells people to search or use RAVE but much of the time he is downright rude, insulting, unhelpful, unwelcoming, arrogant or simply posts 'advice' that is blatantly incorrect.

and yes, I sincerely hope he is reading this. Maybe he will realise that he is hated worldwide and do the decent thing by resigning from his, allegedly voluntary, position as Admin (although if I was expected to spend most of my leisure time administering such a busy site as RR.net I would at least expect something from the commercial company that owns it).

No, RRTH would have deleted the thread and sent a PM saying that things for sale and wanted should be in the For Sale and Wanted section. I know, I once offered someone a spare ABS pressure switch I had and that is exactly what happened.

However, there would have been two pages of discussion on what exactly it was that was being asked for and being told you can buy something that will do the job in Home Depot.......

Is it these you are after?

If it is, then I've got them in different colours but if you want to see if you can get them locally (or on eBay or similar), the part number is MWC9134.

Do you mean the conical ones there the conical bit fits into the socket on he door and have a sort of cup on the other end that fits onto a sort of button looking thing on the door card? If these are the ones you mean, I've got red ones and blue ones if that is any help......

Or some of them may even be yellow, I'd need to have a look.

If I knew what it was, I might be inclined to agree with you......

Yes, the rolling code is stored which is why the handbook tells you not to take more than a minute to change the fob battery or it will lose sync. However, on a later car like yours, it should re-sync as soon as the key is put in the ignition although I'm not sure if that still applies if the car has been unlocked with the key rather than the fob.