Nice but not at 9 grand..... As for the other one, it may look nice but there's bucket loads of trouble waiting for whoever buys it. With only 12k on the clock it'll still be on the original, now perished, air springs and the tyres won't be a lot of cop for that matter either. I suspect quite a few other bits will have reached their best before date too.
No, no crossover, just 2.2uF capacitors in series with the mid range and tweeters so the woofer receives the full range.
RutlandRover wrote:
I think I figured out how to adjust the glovebox to adjust the panel gap though, so that's now a new task fore when the rain stops.
I'd be happy to see how you do it, as you know the fit on mine is pretty crap too.
You can try that but if it is intermittent the most likely thing is a sticky idle air valve. Take that off and give it a good blast with carb cleaner.
Inspired by a question asked on the other side by someone who is now registered on here too and by the lack of bass on my system. OK, so I've got the original LR speakers rather than the HK ones but need to swap the 6.5" woofers in all 4 doors at the very least. I've got an aftermarket Kenwood DSP head unit driving the original speakers. Well, nearly original as I changed my basic spec door panels for ones from a higher spec car and found that as well as the wood on the outside, they had a pair of HK midrange speakers still bolted to them. So I've got bog standard woofers and tweeters but HK midrange at the moment. A professional sound engineer spent a good 2 hours while we were driving through Holland playing with the settings and got it as good as it can get but the woofers are decidedly lacking in the bass department (and there's no sub). As I've got OldShep's 2001 Vogue here with a working HK DSP system in it, I bunged a CD in the changer expecting amazing sound quality. No matter how I fiddle with the settings, it's good but nothing like as good as I expected it to be. In fact, it's not that much better than what I have. Maybe I've been spoilt recently with listening to the Bose system in an Audio RS7 and the Naim system in a Bentley but I don't see why it shouldn't be possible to at least get close.
So, I need to change the speakers. They need to be 4 Ohm, with as low a frequency response as I can find and not stupidly expensive. I'll probably need to add crossovers too. Most 6.5" speakers are 2 and 3 way coaxial but that isn't needed and so far I've narrowed it down to http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Skytec-6-5-Hi-Fi-Polypropylene-PP-Mid-Woofer-Bass-Speaker-Driver-Cone-200W-/182455996924 (nice low frequency response but 8 Ohm so no idea how they would interact with the HK mid-range and standard tweeters I've got in there and I've never heard of Skytec), these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JBL-300W-TOTAL-2WAY-6-5-INCH-16-5cm-CAR-DOOR-2WAY-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-TWEETERS-/190885731881 (A name everyone has heard of, 4 Ohm but frequency response only down to 50Hz although they do come with a pair of tweeters, which I don't need, and a pair of crossovers but are described as mid-range) or these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bass-Face-6-5-Inch-16-5cm-165mm-800w-Mid-Bass-Drivers-Car-Door-Sub-Speakers/351990186243 (which seem to meet the spec but are just for the speakers so crossovers would need to be bought separately). My head unit also has an output for a sub so I will probably add one of them too.
Anyone tried any of these or got any other suggestions?
Orangebean wrote:
I will make a note of the numbers next time I've got the Nano plugged in though.
Don't forget that the numbers are just that though, numbers. They are not specific heights but a number between 0 and 255 which corresponds to the angle of the height sensor lever arm at any specific height. So they will almost always differ between two different cars. The difference may be even greater between your two as they have different height sensors and height sensor mounts.
If you display the map by putting it in off road, does your location move when you drive?
BrianH wrote:
N22 is quite nice compared to some other parts of London - Harlesden or Thornton Heath for example!
N22 is Harlesden which is why I said that one but I agree on Thornton Heath, and quite a few other areas that are just as bad......
It could be worse, at least NW9 is Edgware so a reasonably pleasant part of London, you'd need to really worry if she was in N22, she'd be sitting on a pile of bricks with no wheels and all the windows smashed......
The picture of a globe and stars do indeed confirm she can see satellites but you are talking about an early generation GPS receiver so will take some time to work out where she is and lock on. That's always assuming she can see sufficient satellites, there are times when there just aren't enough of them visible.
RAVE doesn't appear to tell you how to get the carpet out. OB is your man, he replaced his at last years summer camp. I do recall there was rather a lot of bits strewn around the car though.
You're absolutely correct. I've just looked at the owners handbook and confirmed although I had always assumed the ultrasonics were enabled whenever the doors were locked and not only when superlocked. I always superlock mine out of habit but I know most don't in case it fails (we confirmed at the last summer camp that superlocking doesn't work on my drivers door anyway, only the other 3).
Nice one. I replaced my drivers blend motor a few years ago because it would stick at one extreme or the other, invariably at hot in the summer and cold in the winter (driving over the Massif Centrale in a blizzard with the outside temperature showing -3 while sitting inside a sleeping bag so my feet didn't freeze convinced me I really had to do something about it). After changing it and sorting the problem I tested the one I'd removed and found all it needed was a clean so at least I've got a spare now.
Yes, sealing the joints in the ducts is, I think, the only time I have ever used duct tape for it's intended purpose.....
I bet your windows are steaming up nicely today. All that rain yesterday (my daughter has a fishpond in her garden that was empty when she went to work and full when she got home) and now blue skies and sunshine, I suggest you leave some windows open. If you do, make sure you lock it with the key and not the fob or the alarm will be constantly going off from the air movement being detected by the ultrasonics.
No need to book, just let someone know you intend turning up. But if it clashes with Bryan Adams then we wouldn't expect to see you. Saw him last year at an open air gig in Peterborough and definitely worth going.
That might have a lot to do with it. Standard self tappers but a dollop of RTV or a rubber washer under the heads is a good idea.
Covers for the pollen filters but there is also a self tapper that holds the plastic just above the pollen filter housing, water can get it through that. Or, mas OB says, sunroof drains. Water from the AC drips down on the passenger side next to the centre console and of course the O rings are on the other side.
If you are replacing the flex plate you can't make marks (or you can but they aren't going to do you a lot of good) as the marked flexplate won't be there any more. It's no different to changing a propshaft, they tell you to mark that but if you are fitting a new one, then you can't put it back the same way as it came off.
What can often happen is that the motor starts to gum up so moves slowly. So when it does the self test it doesn't reach the end of the travel soon enough so the HEVAC declares it faulty and no longer tries to move it. A squirt of contact cleaner into the motor and working it back and forth from a 12V supply is often enough to sort it out for at least a couple of years.
I'd say go for the original LR flexplate. Spending over twice as much on something that you don't really need unless you are going for a tuned engine doesn't seem worth the money really.
It didn't seem to when I did the same thing. I opened up the holes on the TPS and turned it to bring the idle down. It was like that for the best part of two years until I bought the Nanocom and was able to reset the values.