This guy had exactly the same problem on a Thor fitted with a Prins LPG system https://rangerovers.pub/topic/354-02-sensor-voltage-fixed-low

It might but it depends on the exact LPG system you've got. Worth a try though.

There will likely be a feed from one of the O2 sensors to the LPG controller. It'll likely be a purple wire and be connected in the petrol ECU box. Disconnect it. The LPG system doesn't need it, it's there so you can monitor the lambda sensor output on the LPG software but it isn't unknown for a stray voltage from the LPG system to confuse the petrol ECU. Output signal from the RH bank sensor arrives at the petrol ECU on pin 16 of C0635 (24 pin black plug) on a blue wire so you will be looking for something tee'd into that.

I was once helping a mate fit the exhaust to a kit car that used a Ford V6 Essex engine. He'd got a set of tubular manifolds but the engine was converted to dry sump so the manifold hung down much too low so had to be modded. After cutting lumps out of it, we tried to tack weld it in place and then remove it to weld it properly but couldn't get in there easily to tack weld. Then we had a brilliant idea, Superglue it together in situ then take it off and seam weld it on the bench. Not such a good idea, the Cyanide fumes from hot Superglue damn near gassed the pair of us.....

That will do the job nicely and will bolt straight on in place of yours. The only difference I've seen between odd ones is the position of the output speed sensor. On some it's on the top on others on the side. Not important as the cable will reach either way.

Good point, as it's showing heater faults on both sensors. They are both powered from fuse 28 in the engine bay fuse box. Although even if it was a heater circuit failure, there would still be a reading from the sensor once the exhaust had warmed it up which is why I suggested swapping them over to make sure the fault swaps banks.

I've never had a problem getting one out but I know others have. With a new sensor you should get a small sachet of lube to put on the threads so it doesn't seize in but if someone has changed it in the past and didn't use it then you might have problems. You can buy a special socket for them or if you don't have one and are at risk of rounding the hex, use a pair of Stillsons that tighten up the more grunt you give them.

Yes, but before spending the money you can confirm a sensor problem by swapping them from side to side. If the one not giving any readings moves to the other side, you know it's the sensor. Bank 2 is right hand bank as seen from the drivers seat, so yes, drivers side.

Forget references to sensor 2, only US spec cars had post cat sensors, so you are only interested in sensor 1 on each bank. Short term trims will tell you what the fuelling is doing at any particular time. That won't have much affect on the running but if the short term trims are always going one way, the long term will slowly drift away to try to get the short terms back in range. So long term will tell you more that short term if Torque has that option.

Fuel trims are one of those things that confuse a lot of people but are actually simple when you get your head around it. The ECU has a pre-programmed map that adjusts the fuelling depending on load, throttle position, airflow, air and fuel temperature, etc. It adjusts by altering the length of the open time of the petrol injector (as fuel pressure is regulated and the injector has a hole of a set size) which alters the amount of fuel going in. The lambda sensors act as a final check that it has got it right. With manufacturing tolerances and wear in components, the amount of fuel for a set pulse length may be slightly out so the short term trims fine tune the pulse length a bit one way or the other to keep things correct. But, short term trims only have a limited amount of adjustment so if, for example, your fuel pressure is a bit low, then the short term trims will always be going positive to shove a bit more fuel in. If the short term trims are always one way or the other, the long term trims will adjust so that the short term are always hovering around the centre point.

So, if you have a duff lambda sensor, the ECU will see the output from that as showing a lean mixture. Short term trims will always be going positive to shovel more fuel in to correct it. As the output from the sensor doesn't change, it will still keep going positive so the long term will alter to try to get the short term central again but it never does so more and more fuel is chucked in until the car starts to run like a dog as it is being fed far more fuel than it needs. Extra fuel when cold isn't noticeable as extra fuel is needed when cold anyway, but once it warms up it will be like leaving the choke on when it doesn't need it.

As the LPG system slaves off the petrol ECU, then that will suffer too.

Not sure Torque Pro can do live data from what I've been able to find on it. But for under 3 quid it might be worth a go.

I use the Nano on the P38 but for everything else I use one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Creader-6-VI-Car-Engine-Fault-Diagnostic-Scanner-Code-Reader-OBD2-obd-Scan-Tool-/112128720181 as it can show live data as a graph rather than changing numbers (which is better than the Nano in that respect). Set it to display long term trims and lambda outputs and you can easily see if one bank is switching while the other is flatlining. Until I got the Nano I used to use it on the P38 too. I only bought it to replace one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U581-Car-Diagnostic-Scanner-CAN-OBD2-EOBD-Scan-Tool-Engine-Fault-Code-Reader-UK-/222440809157 purely because the Creader can do Japanese OBD and my daughter bought a Jap import MR2 Roadster and it wouldn't work.

If Torque won't do it, I might be persuaded to bung the U581 in a Jiffy bag for you to borrow if you ask very nicely.

Clear the codes (if the elm327 can clear them or can it only read them?) and see if they return. If you can view live data, see what the lambda sensors are doing, are they stuck at 0 or 1V or are they flip flopping between the two? Can you read the long and short term fuel trims? What are they showing? To start I'd ignore the heater errors as a lambda sensor will work without heaters, it just takes a bit longer to give an output. The open circuit fault on bank 2 would give no output from that sensor which the ECU would see as 0V, or a lean mixture. The trims would then go fully rich to compensate but if the sensor isn't doing anything, it will still think it's lean and richen it up further still so you end up with one bank drowning in fuel.

A couple of people have but found that the wrapping traps moisture so they rust. I ran mine with no heatshield on the drivers side for about 3 years and never overheated anything and a few others run without them with no ill effects too.

While you've got a big hole it might be worth doing stuff you can't ordinarily get to, cruise control pipe to the brake pedal is one thing that immediately springs to mind. New sound deadening and giving it a good clean out is worth doing too.

It's England, do you seriously expect it to get any warmer?

But it's only a 10 minute job? Suspension on high, crawl underneath with someone in the car and the ignition on, slacken off one bolt and one nut, turn the switch until your assistant yells at you to tell you it's showing Neutral, nip up nut and bolt, check that all the other gears are displaying correctly, tighten up nut and bolt, job done. A bit more difficult if you don't have an assistant though......

It's all in the mind. The car picks up quicker because you are giving it more throttle for the same amount of foot movement. It doesn't affect the TPS or throttle at all.

and we are all waiting with baited breath to see if blueplasticsoulman has found Neutral and if Gordon has got a set of rockers and shafts on order....

Neither can I, same message.

Looks like Gordon needs to give it a kick.....

Assuming it's parked somewhere reasonably flat. If it's on bumpy ground it will try to level the other 3 corners to match the lowest one.

Fresh coffee, instant dissolves (like it's supposed to do) and your hands smell nicer but you can't tell if you've washed them or not.