You may find that the problem was simply where you had parked it. I am aware that the Marie will often have the transmitter for the local flic on it in many smaller French towns, so it could be that the receiver was simply being swamped. If that is the case, as long as you don't park there again (or if you do, only lock it with the key and not the remote), you should be able to enter the EKA and sync the key. Your problem looks remarkably similar to this one https://rangerovers.pub/topic/417-engine-disabled and all he had to do was push it down the road a bit (all, well yes, I wouldn't fancy pushing mine too far.....).
RRHSG should get an email telling him he's got a PM on here, maybe he's just busy now the place is starting to fill up with tourists.
Dropping that amount is nothing to worry about, in fact it could even be down to the air in the circuits cooling down and contracting slightly allowing it to drop a mm or two. If you park it in the same place so it is on the level, it shouldn't drop even with the timer in place as there won't be any self levelling to do. If parked on the bumpy stuff it will though but even then I wouldn't expect the tank to be emptied. If you have a leak from the tank, then even after it has sat on the level with the timer removed, the tank will still have lost pressure. If you haven't dome anything with it since it has been left standing, try starting it and immediately putting it on high and see if it goes up straight away. If it does, the tank still has plenty of air in it, if it doesn't and has to wait for the tank to refill, then you are likely to be looking at a leaking NRV.
110 degrees would suggest a short. See what it reports with the sensors disconnected, it should read -40 (or at least very cold).
Not really. You know which pot it is that was causing the problem so just give that one a very good looking at. You are looking for a liner that is sitting very slightly lower than the others, or one that is cracked.
I took my block into V8 Dev and had them do the lot. Top hats, big ends, mains, pistons, rings, cam and followers, cam chain and sprockets, core plugs, the lot. Having been there and seen the work they do, I would recommend them any day. I've also been to RPi, listened to their BS and wouldn't touch them with a bargepole even if their prices are competitive which they invariably aren't. No experience of Turner but from their reputation, I would think there is going to be nothing to choose between them and V8 Developments other than price and availability. V8D normally have blocks ready to go from stock but for me it was going to be cheaper to wait while they did mine rather than go for a straight exchange. .
According to RAVE, it's the same as on a V8. With the suspension on high, jack the body up on the crossmember that runs under the radiator so the gap between the sump and top of the front axle opens up enough to get it out. Apparently, you've got 29 bolts holding it on to the underside of the block. I though taking the 16 or so on the V8 out was tedious.......
Oil filter, air filter and BPR6ES plugs (at £1.99 each) are all on the shelf at Millfield Autoparts on Lincoln Road. Open until 7 during the week and no waiting around for postage. They may have the pollen filters too. I bought the last pair they had in stock last year and they didn't have them in December when I needed a couple to take down to my mate in France so ordered some so they would have them when someone (probably me) wanted them again. They are as cheap, if not cheaper, than Island too.
I'll keep it on the one thread rather than wandering off from OB's. RRHSG is this bloke https://rangerovers.pub/topic/354-02-sensor-voltage-fixed-low and he owns this place http://equilibre-bar.com/ hence considering dropping in to meet him when I'm over there next month (I've even got my Cat 1 Crit' Air vignette on my windscreen). With a Nanocom you can type in the EKA and enter it from there rather than having to waggle the key from side to side. Chances are you've got nothing more complicated than a dodgy microswitch in the drivers door latch which is a simple fix with a recon latch from Marty.
As I've just posted in OB's thread. I'll be over there in the middle of May so if you can get it moved from where it is to somewhere where it can be left, I could plug the Nano in then. Might be worth contacting RRHSG if it is more urgent though. He is in Versailles so a lot closer than most of us and knows someone with a Nanocom who might be able to enter the EKA using that for you.
No, that's RRHSG who's in Versailles, mymysteri is somewhere to the North West of Paris. I'll be over there on 13-15th May and was planning on dropping in on RRHSG on my way back (as he owns a wine bar) but could always drop in with the Nanocom on my way back to Calais for the ferry on the Monday afternoon.....
Rears are simple enough on your own. They are on the power circuit only so use a stick to put pressure on the pedal, attach a tube to one of the rear bleed nipples and put it into your bleeding jar. Open the bleed nipple, turn the ignition on and let the pump do the work. On the drivers side you should be able to get yourself in a position where you can see when the fluid into the jar runs clear so turn the ignition off and tighten the bleed nipple. On the other side just run the pump for roughly the same length of time. It's good that there's a nice big reservoir so unless you run it for ages, there's no danger of running out of fluid.
For the fronts, you can use an Easibleed on the hydrostatic circuit just as you would on a car with a conventional braking system.
Looking at the state of that paint, I reckon a decent pressure washer would take most of it off.
Regarding your coolant leak, there's a steel pipe that runs under the alternator that can rust away and leak. I'd be looking at that first.
Central Door Locking, the single wire is the ground for the latch via the door outstation, the one you want is one of the ones in the multi plug. If the ground was missing on the single black wire due to a bad connection or a failed outstation (very rare), none of the switches would do anything. Easy check for that is if the courtesy lights come on when you open the door, then it's not missing.
The earth feed comes from the door latch directly to the pushbutton on the tailgate but all wires to the tailgate are white to make it difficult for someone to pull them out and ground the correct wire. There's a 12 way black connector behind the trim panel on the right hand side of the boot where the green/red wire changes to white.
Green-oval-nut wrote:
I have used the car on 1 big journey which was the London 2 Brighton run last year
??That's not big, this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/186-not-such-a-good-start is a big journey......
Welcome, I've already replied with a couple of points in your other thread
Someone has probably done a bit of bodgery on the cooling system using a mix of what they had laying around. Your best bet would be to return it to the original GEMS layout and while you are at it you may even find the leak anyway.
Diagnostics not being able to connect is often a sign of corrosion in the wires at the back of the the socket or in the multiway connectors behind the kick panels in the footwells.
I've got a hacked about RR Sport grille on my SE. I'll swap you it for a standard one if you want it as I think it looks bloody awful.......
They aren't old? A Classic is old. The P38 is also the most reliable Range Rover. Classics rust away just about everywhere and the L322 has so many interlinked electronics a fault on one, seemingly unrelated, thing kills everything else so the car can't be driven.
I must admit though, I actually see at least 2 P38s a day when running around between Cambridgeshire and London (and that doesn't count my two and the other 3 that live in the same village as me). but I do clock up about 150 miles a day for work. So they aren't that rare.
Why not just swap the rear diffs? Put the one from the blue one into the black one? At least then you'll have one worker rather than an Enterprise Focus. Last time I had a hire car (when my water pump self destructed), Enterprise gave me a Zafira. Even a doggy P38 would have been better.
Nice one. You probably don't have to deal with rusted bits like we do in the UK, I've always had to get the angle grinder out for the nuts on the drop links.
My original rear diff had about 3mm of in and out play on the input, the best part of a quarter turn slop and a healthy clunk whenever I went from forward to reverse. Did whine a bit like a London bus but it didn't get any worse in about 50,000 miles. I only replaced it because I thought I should.
Rears are a piece of piss. Take off wheel, undo the 6 bolts that hold the hub into the axle, pull it out a couple of inches and let it sit on the wheel you previously took off. No need to even remove the brake caliper or ABS sensor. Do the other side and once both are free, disconnect the prop and hang it out of the way somewhere, undo the ring of bolts that hold the diff to the axle and pull it out.
Oh yes, draining the oil from the axle is a good idea or you end up laying in a big puddle.......