You've never heard of Mark Adams? The chip does make a hell of a difference but as you say, it's not cheap......
Washing up liquid mixed with ground coffee, works just as well as Swarfega and smells nicer too. Or you could be a wimp and get some latex gloves.....
The Nano items are labelled differently between Thor and GEMS, GEMS doesn't have an Idle Load Air reading but has the CLV which the Nano manual describes as "Calculated load value (%): This is an internal value where the GEMS keeps a track on the load that the engine is under it is used in internal fuelling calculations." You've got an Engine Load figure of 18%, so, assuming that is the same thing, yours is reading roughly the same as mine.
RAVE quotes a CLV figure of between 2.8 and 3.8% as being correct at idle with no noted differences between 4.0 litre or 4.6, GEMS or Thor. The only thing I did notice is that RAVE quotes mass airflow as 20 kg/hr +/- 3 while I got 17 or 18 ish, so within spec but only just.
No need to undo the centre nut, there's the 10mm bolt and another 10mm nut right at the top, diagonally opposite the 10mm bolt. The holes in the switch are slotted so it can rotate around the spindle in the centre.
Yes Mark, got that but not the sort of thing you can have a quick flick through and find the answer. I'll have another look later when I've got (a lot) more time.
Seems Aragorn is our auto box expert then and I can follow that. What doesn't make sense to me is why there are differences between cars? One thing I noticed on mine while playing with the Nano is that the calculated load value (CLV) at idle when hot shows around 16%. On the SE, admittedly when cold, it shows 25%, yet RAVE says a hot engine at idle with no load, should be around 3%. Any clues what this might be telling me?
That's interesting George, as far as I know the cable is adjusted correctly but I'll give it a go. As there's no kick down cable on the P38, that would suggest it has something to do with the signal from the TPS. My TPS is an aftermarket one too so may have slightly different characteristics.
Or a 4.0 litre GEMS or Thor, gearbox may be different but the transfer box is the same.
I'd be inclined to replace the CPS. They aren't expensive and are one of the few things that will stop you dead in your tracks.
Gearboxes are different between 4.0 litre and diesel (ZF4HP22) and 4.6 (ZF4HP24) but no differences between GEMS and Thor and the transfer box is the same on all models and years. Avoid one from a diesel though as the torque lower down the rev range tends to stretch the chains quicker.
We had this a few weeks ago and Gordon changed the cert. Looks like he needs to do it again....
Curiosity really, but what dictates how quickly a gearbox drops the clutch so to speak? In the last few days I've driven 4 different P38s and have noticed a difference when pulling away from a standstill. On mine and OldShep's car when you pull away the revs go up to about 1,800rpm and the torque converter then makes the car accelerate while the revs stay constant. A bit like giving it some throttle and slipping the clutch on a manual. On the SE and one that a mate has just bought that he bought over to me to give the once over, the torque converter seems to lock up immediately and the revs go up as the car accelerates, more like dumping the clutch and booting the throttle on a manual.
I initially thought it would be down to mileage and a bit of wear but mine is on what I assume to be the original gearbox and has done 329,000, while OldShep's car only has 104,000 on the clock. The SE has 134,000 and the one my mate has just bought has 173,000 so that theory would appear to be out of the window. What dictates the speed the TC locks up at in the lower gears then? Is it the fluid, the fluid pressure, the torque converter itself or is it something more subtle like the output signal from the TPS maybe?
Ahh, that's more like it. The XYZ switch needs adjusting. Ideally you need someone to sit in the car and tell you what it is doing. The switch is on the side of the gearbox on the passenger side of the car held in place with a couple of 10mm nuts (or one nut and one bolt to be strictly accurate). Slacken them off and you can rotate the switch. With the lever in Neutral and the ignition on (but engine not running), turn the switch one way or the other until your assistant tells you that the N light has lit up. Nip the fixings up and then go through the gears to make sure that the lever position and the lights match. Once happy that it's right, tighten them up properly. Job done.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Do people still use camcorders?
I do but I've got 4 of them. Sony semi-pro camcorders used for shooting video of meetings, interviews and stuff like that.
Or the PS2 has been configured to output RGB and not composite....... You need a known working video source, do you have a camcorder?
I suppose it's always possible that the remains of the guts of the cat are blocking up the centre box. Drop it off and see what it runs like. It'll sound gorgeous with just the Y pipe although your local plod may not agree......
Orangebean wrote:
Found this thread which might relate to your issue
It doesn't. That's a '95 Classic which only has the one switch rather than the XYZ switch we have.
Gear selection is mechanical by cable but the XYZ switch (which is attached to the side of the gearbox and driven by the same cable) tells the electronics what position the mechanical lever is in. The outputs from the switch are used by the gearbox ECU as well as the displays. If the mechanical lever and switch position don't correspond, that flags up as an error and you go into limp mode and gearbox fault comes up on the dash. In limp mode the sport button doesn't work either. The change from High to Low is done by a switch under the centre console (which instructs the transfer box ECU to operate the motor to change ratio) but with no signal to show you are in Neutral, it won't allow the motor to do anything.
What are you using as a video source? US standard NTSC video will display in B&W on a PAL display (and I think the other way round too).
Ooerr, weird. If one of the 3 switches in the XYZ switch dies then the lights next to the lever and the dash display don't correspond with the lever position but as all other positions are reading fine, then it isn't that. There's 3 wires come from the XYZ switch and they go to the lights next to the lever and the BeCM which gives the dash display. Neutral should have a ground on the Y switch with the other two open. If that ground is missing, so all three are open, then you get no display at all and Gearbox Fault on the dash. If the X switch was shorted to ground then when in Neutral it would show you as being in Reverse, 1 would show as 2 and D would show as 3. If the Z switch was shorted to ground, N would show as D, P would show as 2 and R would show as 3. So no combinations of a disconnected or shorted line will give no display when in neutral. Not a scoopy on that one mate.......