That's the other difference. As well as the passenger one being longer, the drivers one has a twist in it so the wiper stays flat on the windscreen. Nobody has bent it, it should be like that.
Another place for water to get in is through the hole above the cabin filter where a self tapping screw holds the plastic down. Are you checking the windscreen resistance with the cable disconnected?
Yours always show up for me but I've seen a few people mention problems with Photobucket just recently. Some have contacted them and been told that it's an ISP problem (Talk Talk being one quoted as causing problems). But how come your pictures are loading immediately from Photobucket, but mine aren't?
Orangebean wrote:
Did you stop the recording before switching off car?
Errm , I think so but can't be sure. Seems Photobucket is playing up for me again as my picture was showing before but isn't for me now. Definitely need to find somewhere else to host pictures.
This is mine, actual heights much closer to the target heights and that is sitting on my, flat(ish) driveway.
I tried to record the EAS during a journey but when I tried to copy it to the laptop it said it was corrupt and wouldn't copy it.
It might be the other way round for you but on a RHD car the longer one goes on the passenger side. If you get them wrong, the longer one on the drivers side clonks against the pillar.
Mr BBS himself is registered on here so is likely to pop up with some advice. You have registered it with the unlock codes I assume?
I knew you could do it with engine parameters but never realised you could do the same with the EAS. I'll try it on mine this evening and see how it compares.
If you've got access to a Nanocom, I'd be inclined to reset the adaptive values and see how it runs immediately after that has been done. If you've still got the uneven idle it cold still be idling on 7 so giving the false lean mixture readings.
If you can wait, I've got a journey coming up that will give me the chance to drop into your bar on the way through but that won't be until the middle of May......
Changing the filters and checking for flapping or deteriorated pipes is the easy bit. Checking the calibration is slightly more difficult but can be done by looking at the long and short term trims when running on petrol and comparing them with running on gas. If you detect a problem here, then it really does need to go to someone that has the software and knowledge to set it up properly. If you don't have a means of checking the trims, there is a crude way of doing it using the trip computer, but more of that later.
To understand how the gas system works in a car, you need a basic understanding of how the petrol injection system works so we’ll start there. Petrol is pumped from the tank to the engine where it goes through a pressure regulator. This keeps the fuel at a constant set pressure and returns excess fuel back to the tank (pressure regulator is on the back of the fuel rail on a GEMS but integrated with the in-tank fuel pump on a Thor). The fuel under pressure sits at the back of the fuel injectors which are nothing more complicated than electrically operated valves. Think of them like bathtaps but capable of being turned on and off very quickly.
The injectors are switched on and off, to open and close them, by the cars petrol ECU. It takes signals from various sensors, engine temperature, intake air temperature, throttle position, engine revs and, by using an internally programmed ‘map’ knows how much fuel is needed at any one time. The amount of fuel is altered by altering the amount of time that the injectors stay open for. At idle, it can be as short a time as 2mS (2 milliseconds, or 0.002 of a second), at full throttle under load, it can be as long as 15mS. As the fuel is at a set, known pressure, the length of time that the injectors are open for directly affects the quantity of fuel injected.
As a check, the engine is fitted with lambda sensors in the exhaust system. These measure the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gasses and can tell if the air/fuel ratio (the ‘mixture’) is correct or not. If it isn’t, the ECU will ‘fine tune’ the length of time the injectors are open for to keep the mixture correct and the engine running at maximum efficiency. This is the short term fuel trim but if there is a problem somewhere that causes the amount of fine tuning to be greater than a preset amount, the ECU alters the long term fuel trim so the short term is always flipping between a bit rich and a bit lean (the positive and negative fuel trims) So if the air filter gets a bit clogged, the mixture will be permanently rich (not enough air) so the short term trims will be going constantly negative to reduce the amount of fuel and get the fuel/air ratio correct again. This will cause the long term trims to go a little negative so the short term trims are back working either side of zero.
When running on gas, the pulses that would be used to open and close the petrol injectors are used to fire he LPG injectors instead. Again, you have a preset pressure so it is only the injector open tines that vary. However, due to them being a bit clunky, not as fast responding as petrol injectors and are injecting a vapour not a liquid, they need to be open for slightly longer that the petrol injectors would. Ideally they need to open between 1.2 and 1.5 times the duration of the petrol injectors. So if the petrol injectors need to be open for 3mS at idle and 15mS are full throttle, they'll need to be open for around 3.9mS at idle and 19mS at full throttle. This is done by the calibration in the LPG controller. It has a map stored and adds the additional time to the pulses from the petrol ECU and uses that to hold the LPG injectors open for the correct amount of time. But, if the calibration is wrong and instead of adding the required 4mS at full throttle, it is only adding 2mS, the mixture will be lean. This will be detected by the lambda sensors and fed back to the petrol ECU which will adjust the fuel trims, initially the short and then the long term so instead of a 15mS pulse, it sends a 17mS one to get the mixture correct again by giving a 19mS pulse duration.
So you can see that by looking at the long and short term trims when running on petrol and again when running on gas, you can see if the calibration is correct. If you've no way of looking at the trims, you can use the trip computer. The trip computer doesn't measure the amount of fuel you use but calculates it from the fuel trims so can give a good indication of something being correct or not. With the car running on petrol, reset the trip computer and go for a drive. Preferably 20 or 30 miles of mixed driving and at the end check the mpg figure it is displaying. Then reset the trip computer and do the exact same journey only running on gas this time. The displayed mpg figure should be the same. If it says you are doing more miles per gallon, then the petrol ECU is having to lean the mixture off (make the fuel trims go negative) so the gas ECU is adding too large a correction, if it says you are doing less miles per gallon, the petrol ECU is having to increase the petrol injector pulse lengths to get the mixture correct (make the fuel trims go positive) because the LPG controller isn't adding enough.
Simple really......
Huh??? It's only a 204 kb jpeg.......
Your target heights look a bit odd, usually the front and rear are different but the difference side to side is very small, 131 to 109 seems a hell of a difference.
Way more than 2.0 litre but I can't find anything that definitely says what size you need. Simon will probably drop in and confirm but I've always understood 6mm pipe is good enough for up to around 250 bhp so you should be OK. Even if you changed for 8mm pipe you'll probably find that the outlets on the solenoids are only 6mm anyway.
Now showing for me but takes a few seconds to load. Before it just sat there downloading......
Nope, new one on me but it's worth a try. It does beg the question of how are you supposed to know why a system isn't working if you can't connect to it without the engine running. Unless it just needs a pulse, in which case you could spin it over on the starter while trying to connect (or have it running on petrol I suppose). To answer your previous question though, I would say downstream of the filter as the temperature is likely to be more stable. Which is probably why the installation manual I emailed you says:
1.1.4 Gas Temperature Filter and Sensor
For a correct installation of these components:
- The gaseous-phase filter must be installed on the regulator output. As indicated in the
General Installation Manual, we recommend users to perform regular scheduled
replacements of the filters. - The temperature sensor must be installed near the gas injectors, right after the gas filter by
the regulator output.
On a DS it was a bit more complicated as the front brakes were inboard, but even then, a damn site easier than changing the handbrake pads on a Jag you just had to remove a few more bits to get to them.
I had a similar experience on the ID19. Drove for miles with a flat rear tyre and only realised when I could hear a strange noise while reversing with the window open.
2 or 3 points out is quite normal but 15 seems quite a bit out and I would have expected it to correct for that. The car does have to be sitting perfectly level though.
I'm only going on my own experience with two cars, both of which were plumbed in parallel when I first got them and both running single point so run on gas from a cold start. The Range Rover Classic would freeze the vaporiser within 300 yards if the ambient temperature was lower than about 5 degrees which made it flood the engine and die. The only way of getting it to restart was to switch to starting on gas, with the vaporiser solenoid disconnected and crank it over for ages with the throttle pedal on the floor. Once it had started and run on the gas that was still laying in there, I had to run on petrol until everything had thawed out. The P38 never suffered from freezing but the heater would drop to lukewarm when sitting in traffic at idle on a cold day. Not pleasant when sitting in a queue for a car park while trying to go to do my Christmas shopping!
So it seemed that on the Classic I was getting more flow through the heater but on the P38 more was going through the vaporiser. Changing both to series plumbing meant that both got full flow and cured both problems. I agree that if a vaporiser has restricted flow it could have an adverse affect on the heater but that hasn't been my experience on the 3 cars I've tried it on. I did the same on the SE with it's eGas multipoint and that definitely allowed the vaporiser (reducer) to warm up quicker so it would switch to gas sooner with still no adverse affect on the heater.
Picture resized so it doesn't now choke.....