Drone at 40-50 mph definitely sounds like a diff, dropping one or other propshaft off will identify which end. Just make sure you put at least a couple of nuts on the parking brake drum when you test it. The little countersunk screw may look like it's holding it on but it soon works loose and it'll make quite a mess as it makes a bid for freedom from under the car. Still can't offer much help on the lack of grunt though, although running on petrol for a while to make the adaptives reset may give a clue.
HEVAC self tests the blend motors at start up. It expects to see them reach the end of their travel within a certain amount of time. If it doesn't see the expected feedback signal, due to either a motor that has got sluggish or a feedback pot that isn't doing anything (both common failures), it logs a fault and doesn't bother trying to move them again. Once they are out, you may find that a squirt of contact cleaner in the motor and pot can cure the problem, at least temporarily.
Bottom ones go dome side up, top ones go dome side down so it's only the very centre that is in contact with the metal insert in the mounts.
Shouldn't be, it wouldn't run all the time (in fact, once up to height it shouldn't need to run at all) and the only time you can hear it is when the washers on the mounting studs are on upside down. Normally the only way you can tell if your EAS pump is running is by putting your hand on it.
If it's on the over run I'd suggest a noisy diff but that wouldn't cause it to be gutless.
I'd suggest getting a stud kit for when you put it back together. The overheat could have stressed the threads in the block and the studs will put less strain on them than stretch bolts.
Don't see why not, pedestals and rockers are all the same, just check to make sure none of the rockers have suffered from sunken socket syndrome. I would suggest that pressure test fail was written on the block and that is why the top hats were fitted. At least you know you've got a good basis for the rebuild.
On my SE, which due to the Britpart water pump being completely sh*gged after less than 2000 miles, yes. That's how I know how damped the dash gauge is because it got up to 105 degrees and the gauge still sat in the middle, it was only after it rose above that the gauge started to rise. The gauge sits in the middle at anything between 85 and 105, only hitting the red when it gets to 110 degrees, but by then you know that it is overheating from the other symptoms......
I read somewhere that the 406 uses the same blend motors so might be worth grabbing them. Ours are made by Valeo and I suspect the Pug ones are too.
Mines got the extra boss welded into the RH downpipe with a Zirconia in it, just after the standard one. I wouldn't use a single wire as if the ground isn't perfect, it will skew the readings. As you are looking at a signal of less than a volt, even a 0.1V drop is going to have quite an effect so you want at least a 2 wire with the ground back to the common ground for the Leonardo. I've got a 4 wire in mine (with the heater fed directly off an ignition switched supply), an NTK intended for a Ford Focus as I found the cheapo eBay generic ones last about a year if you are lucky. To deal with volt drops, I took all of the grounds (solenoids, level sender, lambda sensor as well as the main ground for the Leo) back to a single soldered on connector at the battery negative.
Looks like it's about to blow over, http://www.raintoday.co.uk/ and that I might get some later. If it arrives when FP3 or quali is on from Monaco that should time it about right, no distractions outside.
What did you find then Mark?
That would make sense. After it's stood overnight the air temperature and coolant temperature should both be the same. If the ECM is still reporting it as high, then you'll at least know by how much. I wonder if it will realise it's reading high and adjust itself? The BeCM does with things like the fuel gauge.
Looks like a GEMS airbox from what I can see, so it would appear that you've got an earlier airbox fitted with a sensor you don't need.
No, I would have thought they are too low down to drown the OBD port. Just been to Designation to see if they had a particular type of hose I could do with. They didn't but I did notice that if the Halfords discount vouchers include car cleaning materials, somebody might like to take advantage of it......
Yes they do although not all readings are correct on a GEMS. The GEMS has 5-0V Titania lambda sensors, and a generic scanner will display it as a 0-1V. Some correctly transpose so 5V (lean) is shown as 0V and 0V is shown as rich, others don't transpose and just show 0-1V but the wrong way round. Airflow readings are weird too but they do work and do show an increase as you open the throttle, just the quantity is wrong. It'll still show stored fault codes and allow you to clear them though. A Thor is fully OBD2 compliant though so any generic scanner will work and give correct readings.
It isn't an uncommon problem on the P38 because of where the OBD socket is. If water gets in through the pollen filter housing, it drips into the back of the socket and corrodes it.
As said, Thor (bunch of bananas inlet manifold) has the IAT sensor built into the MAF. If you've got a sensor on the airbox but a Thor motor, someone has fitted an earlier airbox from a GEMS (big rectangular plenum with 4.0 on it). If you've got a GEMS, then the plug is on a continuation of the loom after the plug for the MAF sensor.
LR V8 doesn't need a lube when on LPG. It's down to the grade of steel used for the valves and seats. Only engines with valve seats made from something marginally harder than butter need it. It isn't needed on a pre-2005 L322 with the BMW engine either but if it isn't fitted to a later 322 with the Ford engine the valves will be shot after 10,000 miles (like any modern-ish Ford engine). Basic rule is that anything of far Eastern origin will need it, earlier design European engines won't which is why you see so many Saabs and Volvos,running LPG. When Ford offered a factory LPG option, those cars were fitted with a different cylinder head.
As said, headlining is simple enough but does need at least 2 and preferably 3 people to do it.
Glad to see you got here from the other side, welcome. I'm only a guest over there now......
Did they check the ABS light after driving it as it doesn't go out until you hit 5mph, has been known to fool the odd MoT tester who isn't aware of that. What warning light are they complaining about not illuminating? There should be a warning light for rear fogs but it's on the switch not the dash. As you say though, they could have been pressing the wrong button. Stick a bit of black tape over the one for the front fogs so they've only got one to choose from. The front passenger door on my SE (now wearing your old standard grille), locks on the central locking but doesn't unlock so you have to lift the button inside, maybe yours has the same fault and they locked it between you dropping it off and them doing the test? So all you are really left with is a brake pipe (probably best to do the advisory one too), a bulb and a tweak of the headlight aim.
That would suggest you have a higher resistance thermistor than you should but from your checks with the old one, the ECM sensor is the higher of the two so that would discount the possibility that the internal wiring is reversed.
Eh? they don't make sense. Surely the manifold temperature should be higher than the expansion tank temperature? Can you check the temp at the top hose outlet? That would be the most accurate I would have thought. Temperature reported by Nano seems very high though. The gauge is very heavily buffered and hardly moves at all between 85 and 105 degrees. Not ideal as when it starts to noticeably climb you are almost into an overheat.