Did the brakes on a '95 Classic (the soft dash one that is a sort of hybrid Classic/P38/Disco) recently that had been completely stripped out to have a new bulkhead welded in. Although a different part number the modulator works in just the same way as the P38 one and the bleeding procedure is identical. We couldn't get anything out of the hydrostatic circuit at all. No amount of pedal pumping did anything and even leaving a bleed nipple out and letting gravity do it didn't work. There seemed to be no flow between master cylinder and calipers. Then we found that as soon as the ignition was turned on so the pump ran, the brakes locked on. Had to open the bleed nipples to release the pressure to move the car. Disconnected the fork from the pedal, gave it a wiggle a few times, tried pulling it out (but it didn't appear to move), reconnected it and all was fine.
You've definitely got a leak or two. When you first start it, the lights show the height it is at (light on steady) and the target height (light flashing). I can leave mine 3 or 4 days at normal height and it is still at normal height when I get into it. If it's parked on the piss so it self levels, it comes up almost immediately.
At Marty's workshop near Marlborough in Wiltshire. To log LPG stations on route, use www.filllpg.co.uk.
Not the 15th/16th, that's British Grand Prix weekend.
Lower one is the gearbox cooler, upper one is the engine oil cooler. Follow the pipes to confirm though just in case........
Cutting the heads off is your best bet. When I fitted mine, the bolt holes didn't line up unless I gave the plates either side a bit of grunt. I figured that fitting the bolts would most likely stress the bottom of the rad and try to pull the bottom plastic off so didn't fit them. With the two lugs at the bottom and the bits it slots into at the top, it's not going anywhere without the bolts.
A leak at the O rings would also explain your difficulty getting all the air out too. As fast as you get it out the top more is getting in at the bottom.
I had a seized electric fan too but when I put a socket on the front bumper bolts and started to try to turn them they moved but with that feeling that it was the bolt about to shear rather than come undone. So I left it in place and managed to get the bottom bolts out with an 8mm combination spanner.
When you changed the O rings you have to be careful that they are seated properly. I found that by nipping the screw up so it was just starting to put some pressure on, wiggling the pipes made them seat properly. If they weren't seated fully, they will have been wiggled around when you've been fitting the hoses at the other end, under the bonnet and the screw is now loose. Unless you've done the Audi core mod, in which case the leak is of your own making......
Weird. No idea what the difference is, if any, but the SMK on the end of the part number is the bit that signifies the colour (as I found out when looking for replacement stick on front and rear Range Rover badges) so they will be the same colour. As they look to be the same size then there isn't really much else that can be different.
Very nicely put and I hope he does read it but you missed one additional known fact. That's how ownership of a Land Rover makes time go much faster so the simple couple of hours job takes two days (as one that I thought I'd get done on Saturday morning while her indoors was working a bit of overtime wasn't finished until Sunday lunchtime). The problem with RR.net is that it contradicts point 3, it has one too many, him. You do appear to have something wrong with your keyboard though, it's mis-spelling words in point 5.......
The later Classics (88-93) had the heater feed through a pair of steel pipes that ran along the top of the RH head and one of those had a vertical 'chimney' in it with a cap on the top so you could bleed the air out and top it up once the system was filled and bled. However, they didn't have the return to the header tank in the heater return like the P38 does, that came off the bottom hose so I suspect that is why it was there. A bleed nipple isn't going to do any harm though and will make bleeding the heater circuit easier.
Comparing the dimensions with those of the Nissens linked to by OB, it looks to be about spot on. All the fixings and hose stubs appear to be in the right place too (for a pre-99 GEMS car anyway).
Ooh, that's pretty. Not as expensive as I would expect either. A lot cheaper than the one some guy in the States was allegedly supplying (if he actually supplied any....).
Like OB, if I needed a radiator, I'd definitely be going for one of those.
I put a Bearmach in mine not long after I got it in 2010, still fine after 100,000+ miles.
If the reducer is hot and the inlet and outlet pipes from the heater matrix are both hot, you've got flow through there. How do you know the blend motors are working? If the matrix is hot and the blend motors were working you'd get hot air. Something is definitely not right here and at the moment I'm struggling to think what.
Marty might be your man on both counts here, he has quite a number of spares from a couple of dead cars so the door check strap roller may well be something he has. The tailgate pushbutton receives an earth from the drivers door, earth there when the drivers door is unlocked and not when it is locked. The earth comes from a microswitch in the drivers door latch so it might be the microswitch or it might be as simple as the pushbutton itself. The spring inside it rusts and bits of rust (and broken spring) clog it up so it doesn't move as far as it should. IF you can get the tailgate open, it is simple to take the carpet cover off the inside of the lower tailgate and take the pushbutton out. If you can't get it open, then it's a bit more difficult as the flap at the bottom gets in the way but it can still be got out with a bit of bending.
Swapping to a different brand ECU will involve a complete new loom and much rewiring whereas the King (or any other AEB ECU) will plug straight into what you already have. If the Hana injectors you've got are the Gold version (which I think they are) they are rated at 1.9 Ohms and the King ECU is specced for 2 or 3 Ohm injectors so I can't see it being a problem. You'll also have the advantage of knowing the AEB software rather than starting yet another learning curve.
mace wrote:
There is some flow through it, but not as much as on Gordon's.
Poke a bit of wire through it. It needs to be completely clear. If the hose isn't good, replace it with a bit of 8mm ID fuel hose for the time being.
Check that the bleed hose is clear and that the hole into the expansion tank is clear too. If there's a blockage there you'll never get all the air out.