Another thing to check on the rockers is to carefully look at the steel socket that the pushrod bares against. There was a batch of cars that had problems with the steel seat sinking into the alloy rocker. The affected VIN numbers are from early to late 98 but it isn't unknown on odd ones outside this range.
You can fit the LPG nozzles, attach a length of hose and plug the ends or just drill and tap the manifold and fit a short bolt to blank it off for now. At least then the manifold doesn't have to come off again, you just remove the bolt and put the nozzles in their place.
I replaced the tube from the throttle body heater to the header tank with a length of this stuff http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/silicone-hose-shop/performance-silicone-hoses/silicone-1-ply-radiator-heater-hose-up-to-30-metres.html, 8mm ID was the correct size if I remember correctly and also used a short bit for the other hose that goes from throttle body heater to the manifold. As it is thicker than the original rigid plastic pipe it is very close to the back of the serpentine belt if it follows the same path as the plastic one did so I've run it behind the alternator instead of in front of it. A thinner piece of the same stuff, or the non braided silicon hose like this http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/silicone-hose-shop/performance-silicone-hoses/vacuum-silicone-hoses.html which is actually intended as vacuum hose should be thin enough for the cruise control vacuum hoses.
I always advocate putting the reducer in series with the heater on a P38 where the heater is full flow. My Classic and P38 were both in parallel when I got them, the Classic would freeze the reducer and the P38 heater would drop to lukewarm at idle depending on which path offered the least resistance to the coolant. Changing to series plumbing cured both problems and got rid of a number of potential leak points. On a GEMS the heater hose layout means it can be done neatly too. The flow is the hose that comes from the inlet manifold so I've run that to the reducer(s), then reducer to heater matrix and left the return hoses as Mr LR intended. You'll need reducers due to the different hose sizes but try to get metal ones if you can as the plastic ones will go brittle eventually. Or you can make them up with 22-15mm plumbing reducers with 15-15 and 22-22mm straight joins on each end to give plenty of length for the hose to fit to and ensure a good seal.
What LPG system have you got? Mention of emulators would suggest either a singlepoint or Prins as most other systems don't use emulators. However, if you've got a singlepoint, you don't need to let it warm up on petrol, it'll run on LPG from the word go. I've still got petrol in the tank that I bought in Latvia in September last year.
Glad you finally made it here and you'll find you get advice based on practical experience rather than out of RAVE and making it up as you go along. Regarding the scare stories, the P38 is no worse than any other car designed in the mid 90's and incorporating first generation electronics. Yes, they have their quirks but so does everything else. In the main the engines are reliable (and you've got one built by BMW and fitted in any number of saloon cars), the gearboxes go on forever and the rest of the transmission is nigh on bulletproof. You'll see adverts for cars that have been converted to coil springs with comments like, "converted to coils so no more troublesome air suspension" but the EAS only gives problems when it's neglected just like anything else will. Look after a P38 and you'll see why it was a £60k car when new.
To give you an example. I've got a mate that lives in the south of France. For the last 6 years or so we've been buying classic cars in the US, shipping them to the UK where I get them registered (you can't register anything in France that doesn't have an EU certificate of conformity and everything we have bought has been too old to have one if it could ever get one in the first place) and then putting them on a trailer and taking them the 953 miles from my place to his behind the P38. He's never understood why I use, what the scare stories suggest is the most unreliable car ever built, to do it with. Recently he was offered a straight swap, 200 Euros worth of Peugeot 406 he had for a '98 P38. I spent a couple of days down there getting the air suspension and LPG system working properly. He did some cosmetic work on it and started to use it. After a couple of weeks I got an email from him just saying that he got it. He'd realised what it is that sets the P38 apart from everything else he has ever owned and can see what the attraction is. So much so that the rules on insurance have just changed and he has made a decision. Up until now it has been possible to insure a UK registered car with a French insurance company as long as it has a French Controle Technique (their equivalent to an MoT). When his insurance comes up for renewal, he can only get cover for 2 months to allow him time to transfer a car to French plates. His old '93 (completely rust free) Discovery, his wife's Rav 4, his son's Porsche Boxter and an oddball thing called a Geo Metro (a 2 seater convertible which is basically a Suzuki Swift underneath) will all be coming back to the UK to be sold. The P38? He's going to jump through the hoops that only French bureaucracy can create and put that onto French plates. Despite taking the piss out of mine for years, he's realised that life wouldn't be complete with it.
Unfortunately not, it's broken on the tight bend. It takes the place of pipes 5 and 6 in the pic below but as the car is a soft dash, it's later than this.
Yes, I was meaning at the ECU end but you can do the same at the sensor end. Doesn't need to be conductive but if you've got something the same size and thickness as the pin on the ECU, then you will be able to feel if it is a nice tight fit or if the connector has weakened so not making good contact with the ECU pin.
RRHSG wrote:
Couldn't I just rewire the 3 wires
You could but that will just take the wire as far as the connector in the plug so if the iffy connection is where the plug connects to the ECU, it won't make any difference. See if you can find something the same thickness as the pins (a piece cut from a feeler gauge maybe?) and try it in the plug to make sure there is tension in each socket.
Hmm, interesting. Seems to me that the only thing you have changed that could cause it to move is the ECU. Is there any possibility that the contacts in the plug aren't making a good connection? Have you tried a good squirt of contact cleaner and plugged and unplugged it a few times to make sure everything is clean?
Look like Bigas to me http://www.lpgshop.co.uk/bigas-sgis-4cyl-injectors-rail-with-t-sensor/
Not sure Pirtek would do it. I asked my local place about an AC hose for the Masser and they told me they don't do AC hoses, only hydraulic. This is also one of the rigid alloy pipes rather than a hose too.
Regs look a bit complex but the wall thickness on 10mm microbore is about the same as the original alloy so I don't think that will be a problem, it's mostly a case of will the refrigerant eat the copper rather than anything else.
Had a phone call earlier from a guy I'm helping restore a soft dash LSE Classic. One of the alloy air con pipes got damaged when it was all being pulled apart and it's broke. He's found that they are almost impossible to get as the soft dash is a sort of mish mash of Classic, P38 and Discovery parts. He's asked someone about it and they have offered to make a replacement in copper. The question is, is there any reason why they are made of alloy in the first place and is he going to have any problems with a copper pipe? I said I assumed they were alloy as it was cheaper and some fridges use a copper condenser so I would think it would be OK. Anyone know of any reason why it isn't such a good idea?
Ahh, that happened in Holland so it's all Tony's fault. But it still begs the question of how did Tom Tom get the information in the first place. I suppose people could have been asked to upload details of their journeys under the pretext of identifying areas of congestion? Using Google maps on your phone could easily do it though, and I wouldn't put anything past Google especially if someone was prepared to pay them for the information......
That's a new one. An interesting conspiracy theory but how do TomTom get the information? A sat nav is a receiver, there's no bi-directional communication, it simply receives the signals from the GPS satellites and the traffic information embedded in the RDS of Classic FM and, in some cases, DAB radio transmissions.
I think the updates are much like main dealer servicing. It may be done in the first 5 years of a cars life, then after that it gets left.
When Trafficmaster first came out it used an LED display to show you if there was congestion in front, behind or to the left or right of you and, unsurprisingly, it never took off as there was no way of knowing exactly where the congestion was. The second generation system was simply a button on the dash that you pressed and it called an operator. You told them where you wanted to go and got spoken directions over a mobile phone connection. That wasn't particularly successful either.
In 2002 we got a load of new company cars, a mix of Modeos and Peugeot 406s. The 406 came with a factory sat nav while the Mondeos came with Trafficmaster installed. The 406 system was first generation with a system that simply showed you which way to turn at the next junction, had to be programmed by typing in the town and street with a remote control and ran from a CD in the boot. It worked but wasn't that good. After a couple of years the Trafficmaster subscriptions were cancelled as everyone said it was crap and the CD's in the 406 system were out of date. It was cheaper to buy everyone a TomTom rather than buy the updated mapping CD.
This is my objection to things like the fully integrated system in the L322. It may have been state of the art when the car came out 14 years ago, but now it isn't. There's no DAB or Bluetooth, line in or a USB slot, the systems with a TV built in have analogue tuners, the sat nav is pretty basic with no speed camera warnings, traffic re-routing or anything else we take for granted on a current Garmin, TomTom or Google Maps app on a phone and the maps are still on a CD or DVD which costs a stupid amount of money to update. At least with the P38 if you want to upgrade the audio system for something with a few more modern features you can, but you can't on anything later.
The cut down version of RAVE on the landrover resource site (and the same one that Gordon is hosting on here) covers all models but I have a feeling that the engine overhaul sections may be missing. It's also published by Land Rover of North America so concentrates on the LHD versions rather than real ones. However, the full UK version comes on a CD and only covers P38, L322 and Defender and that's the one I use. For everyone's benefit, I've just uploaded an iso image of the CD to https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc . It'll need burning to a disc (or a virtual drive creating) but once burned to a disc I've copied it to my hard drive and have installed it from there so it runs off the hard drive and not a disc.
For the first 20-30 miles after getting it back from V8 Dev and putting it back together, mine didn't want to rev much over 2,000 rpm. My first test in it was run up to Leeds, about 100 miles, and it was only then that it started to loosen up. Now, after 42,000 miles I think it's bedded in nicely and with foot to the floor in sport mode I can see in excess of 4,500 rpm before it changes up.....
Just be aware that although the BPR6ES plugs will work fine and are the correct heat range, they recommended PFR6N-11 on the Thor. These have the smaller (16mm) hex on them and as Orangebean found out on his, the holes on the heads were too small to get a socket in. However, lots of others with Thor engines are fitting the BPR6ES with no problems.
That's actually not a bad price for a pair, about the same or maybe even slightly less than I ended up spending by doing my own heads while the block was at V8 Dev having the top hat liners fitted. I had both heads skimmed (my local place charges £45 per head but curses for hours as he has to set the machine up with an angled support for the heads), new valve guides, valves, seals and the valves lapped in and pressure tested. Get those heads from Ray at V8 Dev and you know that they will be perfect.
I wouldn't consider re-fitting an alloy head without skimming it, particularly not one that has had a blown gasket. The erosion and weakness at the point where the gasket went is going to be right where the fire ring needs to seal so it will stress at that point and burn through in exactly the same place.
GEMS can adjust the fuelling per bank so that would explain the black on one head. No firing on one cylinder would mean the air and fuel intended to be burnt in that cylinder isn't. The lambda sensors can only detect the air and not the fuel so too much air in the exhaust will make the ECU think that bank is running lean and richen the mixture giving you the black, sooty look.
I'm with Tony on this, that does look like a chunk out of the inlet valve too.
Really, you are looking at the do it right, do it once scenario. Skim the heads, lap the valves, new valve stem oil seals, replace anything that looks even slightly suspect and put it back together with a stud kit instead of the stretch bolts. That way I'll last for another 150,000 miles rather than needing the heads pulling off again in a tenth of that.