If the reducer is hot and the inlet and outlet pipes from the heater matrix are both hot, you've got flow through there. How do you know the blend motors are working? If the matrix is hot and the blend motors were working you'd get hot air. Something is definitely not right here and at the moment I'm struggling to think what.
Marty might be your man on both counts here, he has quite a number of spares from a couple of dead cars so the door check strap roller may well be something he has. The tailgate pushbutton receives an earth from the drivers door, earth there when the drivers door is unlocked and not when it is locked. The earth comes from a microswitch in the drivers door latch so it might be the microswitch or it might be as simple as the pushbutton itself. The spring inside it rusts and bits of rust (and broken spring) clog it up so it doesn't move as far as it should. IF you can get the tailgate open, it is simple to take the carpet cover off the inside of the lower tailgate and take the pushbutton out. If you can't get it open, then it's a bit more difficult as the flap at the bottom gets in the way but it can still be got out with a bit of bending.
Swapping to a different brand ECU will involve a complete new loom and much rewiring whereas the King (or any other AEB ECU) will plug straight into what you already have. If the Hana injectors you've got are the Gold version (which I think they are) they are rated at 1.9 Ohms and the King ECU is specced for 2 or 3 Ohm injectors so I can't see it being a problem. You'll also have the advantage of knowing the AEB software rather than starting yet another learning curve.
mace wrote:
There is some flow through it, but not as much as on Gordon's.
Poke a bit of wire through it. It needs to be completely clear. If the hose isn't good, replace it with a bit of 8mm ID fuel hose for the time being.
Check that the bleed hose is clear and that the hole into the expansion tank is clear too. If there's a blockage there you'll never get all the air out.
Deep 26mm should do the job nicely. As for the air locks, as the block has been completely drained down, it can be a real bitch to bleed all the air out. I take off the top hose and start by filling through the stub on the inlet manifold. Once that is full, fit the top hose and disconnect the bleed hose from the top of the radiator. Fill the expansion tank until coolant flows out of the bleed nipple on the radiator then fit the hose. Top up the expansion tank and give the top hose a squeeze, you should see a jet of water from the bleed hose just inside the expansion tank neck. Then start the final bleeding by squeezing the top hose, put your finger over the hole where the jet of coolant came out and release the hose. Keep doing that until no more air is coming out of the bleed hose or bubbling into the expansion tank from the return hose. If you give the top hose a few more quick squeezes, you'll be able to hear if there is any air still in there. If there is, run the engine for a few minutes to circulate the coolant and then give it another squeeze, plug, release session.
I don't have a problem with either Simon or Marty having their websites on their signatures. Although his username is a bit of a give-away, having a signature that shows he is a full time LPG installer adds credence to Simon's posts and shows he does know what he is taking about. The same goes for Marty, those of us that have been around for a while know that he rebuilds door latches, HEVAC units and can unlock your highly confused BeCM, but anyone new may not know that. So again, a link to his website just adds to the information this forum dishes out.
So I say, put the links back......
Hmm, I've just read through that thread and it seems that although the modulator part number changed from the Thor, all the ones that seemed to have the problem were early cars (95-97). I wonder if they changed the washers from plastic to metal partway through production rather than when the newer version was introduced? An internal change wouldn't have warranted a change of part number if they were externally identical and interchangeable. There seemed to be a lot of failures in Oz and George's washers broke when he took them out but hadn't beforehand so I'm wondering if it's a temperature related thing? I don't have a clicky pedal (a squeaky one sometimes but that is down to it being such a bitch to get any oil on the pivot) and if it was mileage related mine should have gone years ago. Has anyone taken one apart and found broken washers?
Idly looking at things under the bonnet, I noticed that the big hex key plug is right at the front of the modulator which made me think (which is always a bad thing). If the springy thing with the plastic bits that break up lives behind that, couldn't it be done with the unit still in the car? At least it would be bolted to something solid when giving it some grunt rather than having to chase it round the workbench. Also, do the plastic bits only exist on earlier cars or all of them and what is the result of them breaking?
If you can hear bubbles, there's air in there. Air will definitely cause it to pressurise too. There's pressurising and there's getting hard due to thermal expansion, the top hose will get harder, just not rock hard. Make sure you have no hoses higher than the reservoir so any air makes it's way back there.
The messy part of doing the headlining is getting the old orange foam off the shell. I wirebrushed mine out side at the front of the house and we put the lining on in the back garden. You don't want to be sticking the new stuff on anywhere near the orange dust.
It must be a P38 thing, one thing fails and when you put that right you find something else has failed. But you don't know if it's a separate fault or if what you didn't do the first one right and buggered something else up.
Road Taxed Vehicles see http://www.alrc.co.uk/Handbook/2015/regulations/Competition%20Rules%20&%20Regs%202015.pdf
As OB says, test if it is the starter or something more complicated first. Pull the small brown wire off the starter solenoid and connect a bit of wire to the terminal. Touch the other end to the positive of the battery. If the starter doesn't turn, the starter is the problem. If it does, then the problem is elsewhere.
Hadn't thought about that. We did mine outside and even then the fumes from the glue left us both a bit light headed. Doing 5 or 6 on the trot and there'd be no need for beer......
It's a new toy, get it fitted, the other bits are only cosmetic!!
Martrim do a kit at £60 http://www.martrim.co.uk/catalogue/landrover-headlining-kit.html which comes with 3 tins of glue and you do need all three. I only used 2 tins on mine and there are a couple of areas where it needed more. There's no plastic trees involved in the headlining, it's all held in place by the pillar trims and the sunvisors, interior lights, etc that are screwed the the roof through the headlining. Didn't break anything when taking mine out. Showed this thread to Dina and told her that headlinings were the main thing and her comment was ,"No problem, we are experts at that now".
I'm in France the previous weekend but would like to get up there. Even if only to swell the numbers of P38's......
I'll (we'll) be there too as long as the chosen date doesn't clash with anything. I actually did a bit more dragging stuff around in preparation last weekend. Bloody heating oil tank sprung a leak so I had a new one to install. New one is smaller but still weighed 140kgs although lifting it on an engine crane got it into position easily enough. Getting the old one out involved a trolley jack, two long lengths of timber, a 5 tonne breaking strain towing strop and a P38......