Clear the codes (if the elm327 can clear them or can it only read them?) and see if they return. If you can view live data, see what the lambda sensors are doing, are they stuck at 0 or 1V or are they flip flopping between the two? Can you read the long and short term fuel trims? What are they showing? To start I'd ignore the heater errors as a lambda sensor will work without heaters, it just takes a bit longer to give an output. The open circuit fault on bank 2 would give no output from that sensor which the ECU would see as 0V, or a lean mixture. The trims would then go fully rich to compensate but if the sensor isn't doing anything, it will still think it's lean and richen it up further still so you end up with one bank drowning in fuel.
A couple of people have but found that the wrapping traps moisture so they rust. I ran mine with no heatshield on the drivers side for about 3 years and never overheated anything and a few others run without them with no ill effects too.
While you've got a big hole it might be worth doing stuff you can't ordinarily get to, cruise control pipe to the brake pedal is one thing that immediately springs to mind. New sound deadening and giving it a good clean out is worth doing too.
It's England, do you seriously expect it to get any warmer?
But it's only a 10 minute job? Suspension on high, crawl underneath with someone in the car and the ignition on, slacken off one bolt and one nut, turn the switch until your assistant yells at you to tell you it's showing Neutral, nip up nut and bolt, check that all the other gears are displaying correctly, tighten up nut and bolt, job done. A bit more difficult if you don't have an assistant though......
It's all in the mind. The car picks up quicker because you are giving it more throttle for the same amount of foot movement. It doesn't affect the TPS or throttle at all.
and we are all waiting with baited breath to see if blueplasticsoulman has found Neutral and if Gordon has got a set of rockers and shafts on order....
Neither can I, same message.
Looks like Gordon needs to give it a kick.....
Assuming it's parked somewhere reasonably flat. If it's on bumpy ground it will try to level the other 3 corners to match the lowest one.
Fresh coffee, instant dissolves (like it's supposed to do) and your hands smell nicer but you can't tell if you've washed them or not.
You've never heard of Mark Adams? The chip does make a hell of a difference but as you say, it's not cheap......
Washing up liquid mixed with ground coffee, works just as well as Swarfega and smells nicer too. Or you could be a wimp and get some latex gloves.....
The Nano items are labelled differently between Thor and GEMS, GEMS doesn't have an Idle Load Air reading but has the CLV which the Nano manual describes as "Calculated load value (%): This is an internal value where the GEMS keeps a track on the load that the engine is under it is used in internal fuelling calculations." You've got an Engine Load figure of 18%, so, assuming that is the same thing, yours is reading roughly the same as mine.
RAVE quotes a CLV figure of between 2.8 and 3.8% as being correct at idle with no noted differences between 4.0 litre or 4.6, GEMS or Thor. The only thing I did notice is that RAVE quotes mass airflow as 20 kg/hr +/- 3 while I got 17 or 18 ish, so within spec but only just.
No need to undo the centre nut, there's the 10mm bolt and another 10mm nut right at the top, diagonally opposite the 10mm bolt. The holes in the switch are slotted so it can rotate around the spindle in the centre.
Yes Mark, got that but not the sort of thing you can have a quick flick through and find the answer. I'll have another look later when I've got (a lot) more time.
Seems Aragorn is our auto box expert then and I can follow that. What doesn't make sense to me is why there are differences between cars? One thing I noticed on mine while playing with the Nano is that the calculated load value (CLV) at idle when hot shows around 16%. On the SE, admittedly when cold, it shows 25%, yet RAVE says a hot engine at idle with no load, should be around 3%. Any clues what this might be telling me?
That's interesting George, as far as I know the cable is adjusted correctly but I'll give it a go. As there's no kick down cable on the P38, that would suggest it has something to do with the signal from the TPS. My TPS is an aftermarket one too so may have slightly different characteristics.
Or a 4.0 litre GEMS or Thor, gearbox may be different but the transfer box is the same.
I'd be inclined to replace the CPS. They aren't expensive and are one of the few things that will stop you dead in your tracks.
Gearboxes are different between 4.0 litre and diesel (ZF4HP22) and 4.6 (ZF4HP24) but no differences between GEMS and Thor and the transfer box is the same on all models and years. Avoid one from a diesel though as the torque lower down the rev range tends to stretch the chains quicker.