A '96 HK system won't have the DSP amp (thankfully) but will have separate amps in each door. You can fit any after,market head unit (some can even be programmed to allow you to retain the steering wheel controls) but rather than one with line level unbalanced outputs (which will hum), your best bet is to use the speaker outputs and make up and fit some attenuators, see http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/entertainment/headunitadapt.html

Think of this forum as a virtual pub (hence the URL). It's a bunch of like minded people sitting around chatting and helping each other out. Most of the problems and questions you have, and the ones you may well have in the future, are all ones we've all been there and dealt with ourselves. I've clocked up 123,000 miles in my P38 in the 5 or 6 years I've owned it (currently showing 328,900 miles). It was a spares or repair job when I bought it and just about every fault that a P38 can throw at you I've had to deal with at some point. Then I went and bought another so I could start it all over again......

Nah, there's only a couple of us that got lifetime bans and a few more that have been banned for a week at a time. Some on here even post on there at odd times........

As for changing the air springs, I've never felt the need to take the wheels off neither front or back. RAVE also tells you to remove the front wheelarch liner but I've never done that either. Just pull it out far enough so you can see what you are doing and get your hand in there and jam a block of wood in to hold it out.

Glad you got it sorted but it does sound like you need to look into why the EKA couldn't be entered before the next time....... Still can't work out why it disabled itself after being locked and unlocked on the key though.

For RAVE, see the second post down in this thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/355?page=9. It's an iso image of the full CD version so will need burning to a disc and installing but you can copy the disc contents to your hard drive and install and run directly from there.

To go to low range you select neutral, move the lever across to low range and you'll get a beep, beep, beep and the flashing light with a picture of gears. After a couple of seconds, the beeping should stop and the light goes out. At that point you can put it into gear. If the beeping and flashing light doesn't stop, that means the motor has either jammed or is seized and it is trying to select low range and failing.

The gearbox and transfer case are separate each with their own oil drain plugs and fillers. Both need Dexron 3 though.

He does say he won't send stuff outside the US and there's no warranty either (so you can be fairly sure nothing will work properly).

I've had to resort to the EKA a couple of times when I've parked somewhere, been able to lock on the fob and then not been able to unlock with it so had to use the key and then put the EKA in with the key. But I had the exact same problem as the OP last night on my SE. Having to clear some space in anticipation of an oil tank being delivered this morning, I went outside to move the SE and another car. As the SE gets started so rarely, I always lock it with the key with the bonnet open and then disconnect the battery. Then I can unlock just the drivers door, open the bonnet, reconnect the battery and start it. Never had a problem in the past but last night I reconnected the battery and got Engine Immobilised (as well as all the usual window not set messages) when I tried to start it. Out with the Nano, plug it in, check the owners handbook for the EKA while waiting for the Nano to boot, enter the EKA into Nano, hit the button, start the engine. It really is that simple if you've got a dodgy switch in the latch or a receiver that's being swamped with RF.

Or he's trying to get rid of a load of second hand crap that he's had cluttering the place up for years that nobody will buy because he's asking stupid prices for it.

It may seem expensive but with what it can do, it is invaluable. Even if you don't intend keeping the car, they go for almost full retail price on eBay on the rare occasions someone sells one.

Not necessarily but if the only message you have is Engine Disabled, Press Remote, I doubt it has. The only worry is that the more it is messed with, the more likely it is that it goes into full lockout. My concern is the same as Marty's. Turn up there with the Nanocom only to find that it is something more serious and it needs more specialist kit (which he has but I don't).

No, a standard code reader is no good, not even the stupidly expensive Snap-On ones. You need dedicated LR kit, Nanocom, Lynx, Testbook or a Syncmate. There might be an LR independent nearby who may be able to help (although a lot of them won't come out to you). Or just wait for Marty to re-appear and use it as an opportunity to get some miles on his new engine. I'm closer to you than Marty (not much over an hour away) and would offer to help but I'm supposed to be working at the moment, busy this evening, at work tomorrow and got a replacement central heating oil tank to install on Saturday so Friday evening is going to be taken up removing the fence that is around the old one.

But if you haven't got it sorted by Sunday........

Yes, it's trying to do something but if the reservoir is empty there's no air to send anywhere.

There's still a mystery here. If it was locked and unlocked with the key, it shouldn't have become disabled in the first place. If the door is locking and unlocking the linkage is OK but why is it not flashing the lights on an unlock turn? Marty, is there any possibility that something has broken inside the latch so it is physically unlocking but not operating the switch (although it that was the case I would expect no flashes when turning either way)?

Taking it apart and getting the latch out probably isn't something you'd want to do with it parked outside a shop and even if you take it out and find it's broke, you don't have another to put in it's place. Pushing it a bit might work or the other method I've heard of the AA doing is put put one of those metallised blankets over the back of the car, crawling underneath it and using the fob against the receive aerial etched into the offside rear window.

Let it run with a door open for 10 minutes and see if enough air gets into the reservoir to get it to raise when you close the door. The solid light is showing the height it is at and the flashing one is showing what height it is trying to achieve so that is correct. If it bored with waiting, both lights will be solid so you need to poke the rocker switch again to wake it up.

What do you mean by clicking over? The pump should run constantly to start with with a gentle hum (if the pump mounts are good, you'll need to put your hand on it to feel it running). The solenoids will be clicking as it's trying the raise the car but even a good pump will take 8-10 minutes running to get the reservoir filled and up to pressure. If you open a door with the engine running (so the pump runs), that will inhibit the air suspension so it won't try to raise, all the pump output will be going into the reservoir. Then when you close the door and poke the button, it should rise up to normal height. Unless you already have a door or the tailgate open in which case it won't raise as it's inhibited by design (no suspension movement if any door or tailgate is open or if you have your foot on the brake pedal).

Handbrake adjustment is simple enough. Big 17mm spanner on the adjusting bolt on the backplate. Tighten it up until the drum locks, then back it off one and a half turns.

Makes no difference. One switch tells the BeCM you are turning the key, the other one tells it whether the car is locked or unlocked so it knows which way you are turning it. It can obviously see that you are turning the key as the lights flash when going one way, but if the CDL switch isn't operating it will think you are always turning it the same way.

Anti-clockwise is lock, so say the first turn to lock is 3, it would see 3 pulses from the key switch. If you then turn clockwise and the CDL switch isn't working, instead of seeing pulses the other way, it would see any further pulses as being more to lock. So the lights would still flash but the wrong code would be sent, it would just be a string of lock pulses rather than alternate lock, unlock, lock, etc.

That's why I say it could be as simple as slop in the linkage. No flashes when turning one way suggests that it isn't seeing you turn the key. Does this make sense?

In the mid 80's the MoD replaced all of their Series Land Rovers with Defenders and got rid of all the remaining complete cars and spares. Most of them were bought by one company and they went to a disused airfield somewhere near Litchfield. They had aircraft hangars full of spares and the entire airfield was covered in Series Land Rovers. All one price (£1750 each if I remember right), except any with 24V electrics were classed as commercial so had VAT added to the price. You walked around, picked out the one(s) you wanted and they craned it out for you. I bought a few LHD ones that went to France but there were LWB, SWB, soft top, hard top, lightweights, every version going, all you did was find one that looked decent. Some had dents in every panel and starship mileages, others were near brand new.

Then there's another place that is still going today, just off the A1 near Grantham but I suspect a few years ago there were quite a few places dealing in ex-MoD kit as there would have been so much of it about.

Just looking at the diagram to find wire colours and realised that for the system to recognise clockwise turns of the key but not to recognise the anti-clockwise it would mean the CDL (Central Door Locking) microswitch isn't doing anything. But if that is the case, then the central locking wouldn't work, does it?

Also, if the CDL switch isn't changing state, then it would see all key turns as clockwise so should still flash the lights, just not be seeing the correct code. That's making me think it might be something as simple as slack in the linkage and the key turn is enough to lock the door but not quite enough to operate the switch. Could be worth checking that before Marty does a long round trip (although it will give him the opportunity to get some more miles on his new engine).

GEMS or Thor refers to which petrol engine as a 99 could be either. If the top of the engine has a rectangular plenum with 4.0 or 4.6 cast into it, it's GEMS, if the top of the engine looks like a big bunch of aluminium bananas, it's Thor. But, that is pretty much irrelevant as the problem is the same. It shouldn't have gone into Engine Disabled if it was locked with the key and then unlocked with the key again, locking with the key is how you lock the car without turning the internal ultrasonics on so the alarm doesn't go off if you've left your gundog in there. It is only if it is locked with the fob and unlocked with the key when it will go into disabled and need the EKA. Does unlocking with the key unlock all doors or just the drivers door? It may be that the fob has lost sync for some reason, have you tried re-syncing? Put the key in the lock, turn to unlock and hold it there, while holding it there, press and hold the unlock button on the fob until the LED flashes quickly (about 10 seconds). Then turn to lock, hold it there and press and hold the lock button. That should sync the fob to the car but if the lock/unlock microswitch is playing up, then it may not work. It also may not sync if you are in a disabled state, I know it won't if it is in alarmed state but not sure about disabled.

I was in Coventry at the weekend (yes, it was me that PM'd you on the other forum) and have a Nanocom but don't have any reason to go that way again in the next few days. Mine is for GEMS but I'm fairly sure that it will still work with the BeCM (Body Electrical Control Module, the bit that deals with this stuff) on any version, just not talk to the engine (can anyone confirm?).. If all else fails, as you can get into the car, you can enter the EKA code by taking the door card off and dobbing wires onto the correct pins in the plug to enter the EKA manually.