Here's where the bolt plugging the hole that was drilled and tapped for the injectors on mine is. You need to get them as close to the petrol injector as you can but ideally not getting in the way of any of the manifold bolts. You don't really want to be tugging and heaving at a pipe on a brass nozzle just so you can lift the manifold off, you want to be able to take it off complete.

I've never got around to going any further with mine, I'm still running with the bolts plugging the holes and the old singlepoint (Leonardo system, the same a Gordon's) fitted. I've got a multipoint system that I could fit but am not sure if the effort and advantages outweigh the disadvantages of the singlepoint. My original intention was to find some injectors that were available in banks of 2 and 4. Fit a 4 way bank to the centre plenum bolt on bank 2 and the fit two banks of 2 on the corner plenum bolts at each end on the other side. That way there would be a pair of injectors either side of the intake and it would keep all the hoses short and the same length.

Reminds me of the Ericsson car kit we had in company vehicles many years ago. Rip it out......

Simple enough even if a little messy, see here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/413-preparing-for-autobox-oilchange

Here's the TSB and what you should be looking for. An engine from a late GEMS could well be one from the same batch.

Don't you just love the simple ones. Not only that, but the satisfaction of knowing it's now all good every time you remove the key.

Not having a diesel to compare with I can't help although I know of one car that wouldn't move at all when parked nose down. It was working perfectly when parked on a steep driveway and then had to be towed back up onto the level. Once on the level it drove fine again and that was down to it being seriously low on transmission fluid.

A '96 should have the dipstick on the gearbox but you need to check it by the correct method. Instructions are all in RAVE...... Oh sorry, had a TH moment there. Check it when cold, start the engine, run through all gears a couple of times and then put it in neutral and check the dipstick with the engine still running.

The pads shouldn't wear, or if they do, it'll be an oval wear patch as they are designed to slide over the top of the valve. There was a TSB for the sinking inserts though, it affects chassis numbers from WA382672 to WA391018 (so early to mid '98) and the symptom is a tappety noise which you wouldn't normally get with the hydraulic followers. The car that this came from is the one my mate in France has and is slap in the middle of the affected range. He had two that had gone like that, one worse than the other, but you could definitely hear the worse of the two at idle.

Although I did suggest brake cleaner (purely because the contact cleaner I have seems to leave a slight residue). If you've got a contact cleaner that evaporates completely and doesn't leave a residue, then use that. I went a step further and took the lock apart, hence mention of the little spring and various other bits flying out.

The microswitch that deals with the Key In message is at the bottom of the keyslot and sticks due to a build up of dust and general crud. If you look you should be able to see a small strip of metal that the key pushes against. A good blast of brake cleaner should clean that out and not leave any residue for dust to stick to in the future. I've had my lock barrel out and it's an interesting exercise. There's a tiny spring that will fly out and you'll spend hours a) trying to work out where it came from, and b) trying to get it to stay in place while you assemble the lock again. You may well find that once you've cleaned out where the switch is, the steering lock will start to work again anyway as the brake cleaner will have gone further down and cleaned everything out. A bit of graphite powder in the lock itself will then keep everything moving nicely.

mace wrote:

Steel inserts, is that the rounded socket that the push rod engages with? I'd say they look sunken, but not knowing what unsunken is supposed to look like makes it difficult to judge.

That's the ones. This is one that has sunk into the alloy from a car in the batch that suffered the problem. It had two that had sunk but when running it did sound very tappety. Compare yours and if they are all down by the same amount, you are OK.

The rockers shouldn't slop on the shafts and if any of the steel inserts have sunken it will be pretty obvious. If the rockers are tight and there's no wear on the shaft, then you don't have a problem. When you put them back together, make sure you get the shaft the right way up or it'll wear at a stupid rate.

Apparently the HK speakers sound better although to my ears the standard ain't that bad. Mine originally had the low line speaker setup and no radio at all (plod didn't order one, they wanted to put something else in the hole obviously) but I bought a set of door cards with the mid range speakers and wood strips (which mine also didn't have). Admittedly, I think I've worn out the woofers as they don't produce a lot of bass and rattle a bit when the stereo is cranked up beyond 25 (eat your heart out Marshall!).

If you mean front of the engine, that would be the one that goes on the sensor for the temperature gauge.

Can you look at the IP address Gordon? That would at least tell you where in the world he registered from.

The HK badges were only fitted on cars with the high line HK system. There were 3 levels, low line with just woofers and tweeters in the front doors and woofers only in the rear, all driven directly from the stereo so no amps in the doors. The mid line had woofers, midrange and tweeters in the front doors and woofers and midrange in the rear, again driven directly from the stereo. The high line had the HK badges because the speakers are actually HK and not generic LR speakers, as well as everything the mid line had, it also has a sub in the boot and everything is driven by an amp in each door and another in the sub housing.

So if you had the low or mid line system you can simply slot in any aftermarket head unit and the DIN plugs on the loom connect straight to it. It is only the high line system that needs a bit of jiggery pokery.

Doh, £8 for 4 BPR6ES, that's more expensive than the £1.99 each from my local motor factors.

I'm curious but am afraid to ask what that is actually intended for........

I seriously hope it is him. Then he can find out what an arrogant, unwelcoming, unhelpful, condescending,twat he comes across as to sensible, mature, civilised people. I honestly think he tells people to read RAVE or do a search purely to show that he thinks he knows what he's talking about but doesn't really. I notice that he has edited his post where he gave someone completely wrong information. The guy that asked which temperature sensor was the one that the petrol ECU gets it's readings from and he said the green one. I'd be well pissed off if I'd asked a question and based on the answer given by a seemingly knowledgeable admin on the forum I'd gone out and bought the wrong part.

However, at least we've managed to help out a few new members by getting them over here and being able to give them accurate, helpful advice. It seems that most of the threads started recently are of the look at this reasonably nice P38 I've just bought and then completely fucked up by chopping huge lumps of bodywork off.

I managed a weeks ban after he criticised somebody for not putting a correct location in his signature. The poor unsuspecting guy had put his location as Flintshire so I pointed out that it was far more accurate than WA, CO or CT which to me mean Warrington, Colchester and Canterbury. Thyat post was there for all of 2 hours before being deleted and me getting the ban.

Looking at the forum terms of service that Dave posted a page or so ago, I'm considering reporting RRTH to the owners of the site for contravention of the first term........

By the way, the only true black is Rolls Royce Masons Black. The mix recipe is black base and 24 parts black pigment. That's it, nothing else.

Or bad contacts in the plug between the driver pack and valve block.I took a known good, fully working, valve block and compressor off one car and put it on another. It did nothing. Sprayed the multiway plug with contact cleaner, reconnected and it all worked perfectly.